Does anybody know where I could find metal barbs with the G3/8" thread for a Thermochill AP120.3, and that have a 3/8" OD? I've only found a few plastic ones so far...
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Does anybody know where I could find metal barbs with the G3/8" thread for a Thermochill AP120.3, and that have a 3/8" OD? I've only found a few plastic ones so far...
Try Thermochill. I live in the US, and I ordered the 1/2 version from them. Was expensive for shipping (Royal mail) but it only took about 5 or 6 days. And they have the G3/8 with 3/8 od barb on their site: (scroll down)http://www.thermochill.com/acatalog/...cessories.html
]Monty[
Get these aquaxtreme barbs from Petra's Tech Shop. They should work without any problem.
http://www.petrastechshop.com/aqhifig3th1o.html
I'm looking for some copper fittings for my BIP 120.2 and a MCR320 so I can solder some copper pipe to them. What should I be looking for to be able to do that? I need a threading end and then a regular copper pipe end that accepts 1/2" copper pipe.
Sorry. How about item# 5346K19 or 91465K93 from www.mcmaster.com
On petrastechshop.com, the MRC320 is listed as having 1/4NPSM barbs, yet on SVC.com, it lists the same radiator as having 3/8th NPT. Which one is it really? Is petras 1/4npsm and SVC 3/8NPT or did somebody get it wrong?
This is from another thread but I thought you might find it useful.
Ya for me the rad is the most interesting. So I thought I would discuss those. Now if they want to carry it to the next level . Its really very simple .
Install round fins with a flare that will seperate the fins so that you have airflow threw them . size the hole in the fins so they are tight against the tubes but still slide on easily. Now comes the best part. TO make your tubes and fins react together as 1 part for better heat transferr, get a small steal ball sized just .05 larger than the tube ID. force it into the tube . Now hook air hose to the tube end and force the ball threw the tubes with 125psi air pressure. Make sure to have safty in place at other end of tube so steal ball doesn't become a bullet. use a shut off valve at air nossel to control force .
When your done you will have a pretty efficiect finned rad. Even without airflow the effects will be very good and look cool also.
Just trying to help you guys out that find that rad intersting. So I gave away industry secrets big deal not a big secret either.
Apologies for the noob question, but I'm not quite clear on the first post. Are there any 1/4" NPT metal barbs?
Are those NPT threading? Says G1/4, is that the same as NPT?
No, G 1/4" would not fit 1/4" NPT. You can get brass 1/4" NPT barbs from www.mcmaster.com. They are on catalog page 249.
I just bought a Apogee GTX. I can't remember ever owning a block with the top made out of metal. Anyway, it took a little more "effort" so to speak to put the fittings in (EK Barbs.) Not like I had to break out a wrench or anything, but it felt tighter than on delrin or plexitops and there was definitley more resistance than I'm used to.
The GTX is in fact G1/4 bsp, right? I guess the whole ALU thing had me thinking and I hope I didn't f'up the threads.
sorry for t he noob question, but im not quite understanding this...
for each product .. ie.. cpu wb / radiator / pump / if its not all the same size barb, i have to buy connectors for it?
my reason for my asking is that i would like to use the 7/16 tubing for it... and was curious if i have to buy connectors
for all of em
I' m soon getting the Swiftech ApogeeGT, MCW60 and MCW30, and about 2 weeks later - the MCR320.
So I need help on choosing the fittings. Requirements are:
preferably 10mm(1/4in) ID / 11-12mm (7/16-1/2in) OD. The tubing I use is 10mm ID so I'm not sure if 1/2OD will fit...:shrug:
Of course metal barbs - brass, steel, etc.
I know it's stupid but could not locate any at petra's.
Edit: I like the D-Tek's 3/8OD and the 1/2OD, but again am not sure about fitting the 10mm ID tubing over them.
Could someone please move the thread in the threadings and fittings sticky, please.
It would be a squeeze but you could probably stretch the 10mm tubing over the 1/2" OD barbs. 12mm ID tubing would be better though, wouldn't take near so much of a stretch. My guess is 11mm ID tubing doesn't exist, but that would be a happy medium and would still stretch over the 1/2" barbs fine (11mm is almost the same as 7/16")
3/8" OD barbs are slightly too small for 10mm ID tubing.
Thanks JJ
From petra's:
Specifications:
Barb Size: ~3/8" OD (~11.2mm at widest point in barb tip), 7.9mm ID
Thread Size: G 1/4" (BSPP)
Materiel: Chrome Plated Brass
Thread Length: 5mm
Total Length: ~1 3/16" (30mm)
Fitting Type: Threaded Barb w/recessed o-ring
Quantity: 1 Barbed Fitting (Yes, these are sold INDIVIDUALLY!)
Suggested Use: 3/8" ID Tubing (Great replacement barbs for most Danger Den and Swiftech parts).
I've sent Petra an e-mail with the request to try some 3/8" (10mm) tubing on them and give me his opinion.
UPDATE: I am getting the MCR320, so what are the threadings on it?
there are two revisions of the TDX, the old one uses 9/16 and the new one users G1/4
thank you so much man!
Hey eXa, I wonder if you could tell me the thread size of the plug/cap that fits into the water fill hole in the 5 1/4" HDPE Bay Res that I bought from www.petrastech.com and which can be seen here:
http://www.petrastechshop.com/swmcbreref51.html
I just hate the cheap plastic look and if I cannot buy such a fill hole plug in nickel plated brass then I intend to have an engineer friend machine one for me.
It's a damm shame that I gave up on Engineering as a career 10 years ago because there is so much I could do in the field of modding if I had the use of all the machines in a small machine shop. :shakes:
[Hi everyone, new to this forum and my 1st post.
I'm in Canada and trying to find these fittings.
I think they come with Mips blocks, but i would like
to buy them without blocks.
Photo shows frozencpu, there out of stock
Try Sharkacomputers.com or Highspeedpc.com