Lol No kidding... well as long as I can boot to Windows and do the normal activities I'll be fine with that ... from time to time will have to use the jumper cables... but I can survive until my next upgrade :DQuote:
Originally Posted by creidiki
Lol No kidding... well as long as I can boot to Windows and do the normal activities I'll be fine with that ... from time to time will have to use the jumper cables... but I can survive until my next upgrade :DQuote:
Originally Posted by creidiki
..still.. jumpstarting your mobo, thats just lol :lol2:
try replacing the whole PSU
had one like that, turned ON for a while then OFF itself and dont wanna ON again
after a while(unplugging replugging) it repeats going OFF after booting up to windows...
replaced PSU and it boots up properly...
How long have you had that power supply? They come with a three year warranty.
Quote:
"Antec Quality 3 Year Limited Warranty
Antec, Inc. warrants its new products to be free from defects resulting from faulty manufacture or faulty components under the following terms and conditions:
I. Warranty Length
Antec iLuminate LED light products receive a 1 year warranty. Products sold as "B" stock or Refurbished stock have their own warranty; please click the link above. For all other new Antec products, parts and labor are warranted for three (3) years from the date of purchase. Replacement products will be warranted for the remainder of the warranty period or thirty days, whichever is longer.
II. Who Is Protected
This warranty is enforceable only by the original consumer purchaser. Proof of purchase is required for warranty service.
III. What Is And Is Not Covered
Note that our warranty is not an unconditional guarantee for the length of the 3-year length of the warranty. Antec products are made under our exacting manufacturing standards. But, like any other product, they are not indestructible. Therefore, our warranty does not cover product damage that may result from abuse or mishandling of the products, nor does it cover incidental or consequential damage.
The following are not covered by the warranty:
1. Any product which has been modified without permission from Antec, or on which the serial number or warranty sticker has been defaced, modified, or removed.
2. Normal wear and tear.
3. Damage, deterioration or malfunction resulting from:
* Accident, abuse, misuse, neglect, fire, water, lightning, or other acts of nature, unauthorized product modification or failure to follow instructions included with the product
* Repair or attempted repair by anyone not authorized by Antec, Inc.
* Shipping or transport damage (claims must be made with the carrier)
* Any other cause which does not relate to a product defect.
4. Cartons, cases, batteries, cabinets, tapes, accessories or other consumables used with this product.
5. Antec, Inc. does not warrant that this product will meet your requirements. It is your responsibility to determine the suitability of this product for your purpose.
6. Removal or installation charges.
7. Shipping charges.
8. Any incidental charges.
IV. Exclusion Of Damages
Antec's sole obligation and liability under this warranty is limited to the repair or replacement of a defective product at our option. Antec shall not, in any event, be liable for any incidental or consequential damage, including but not limited to damages resulting from interruption of service and loss of business, or for liability in tort relating to this product or resulting from its use or possession.
V. Limitations Of Implied Warranties
There are no other warranties, expressed or implied, including but not limited to those of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose. The duration of implied warranties is limited to the warranty length specified in Paragraph I.
VI. Local Law And Your Warranty
This warranty gives you specific legal rights. You may also have other rights granted under local law. These rights may vary.
VII. To Obtain Technical Support.
Please see your product owner’s manual or visit the Online Support section at www.antec.com for details and contact information.
VIII. For Warranty Service.
In the event that warranty repair or replacement is required, Antec will request and you must provide proof of purchase (store receipt or invoice) in order to receive warranty service.
Outside North America and Europe: If your product needs to be returned within the warranty period, please do so through the retailer or distributor from whom you purchased the product.
In North America: Within the first 60 days after purchase, please return your product (or for power supplies installed within our enclosures, just the failed power supply) to your dealer or reseller for a replacement. If the product is still within warranty and you can no longer return it to your dealer, please contact Antec Customer Support (see above) for assistance and instructions. Antec will not accept returns without prior approval and an RMA number."
Thanks for all the advices but actually the PSU seems fine.. tested it with my wife's mobo and worked just fine ... somehow the darn mobo won't send the signal. Using the jumper cables will work :D just fine and will only need to be used when the PSU is unplugged so I can turn the PC On and Off any time w/o jumper cables :P as long as I don't unplug the power line.
Well I finished last night putting all back together and I'm ready to test today.. I wanted to test it last night but got too late and knowing how I am I won't go to bed until seeing all working right ;) Plus Middle East crisis is keeping me stuck to the TV :)
What an odd problem...glad you figured it out though! :clap:
Good luck on the testing.
My PC is Alive..!
Working great guys here are the benchies I got so far :D
Keep in mind I migrated from AC Freezer 64 Pro Air solution which served me very well also I'm guessing I could get even better temps if I add an extra rad to the loop ;) Future project :D
One thing for sure "Water Cooling" worth every penny... I can't believe I can just hear my PSU and hard drives :)
The biggest performance hit was the VGU 17C degrees lower on full load
On Air clocked at 2.6 on Water clocked at 2.7
Room Temp was 87F/30C
http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/5...resultsjt3.jpg
Lessons Learned
1- The most important one.. if you have questions ask. If you don't have questions ask anyway or read and read.. I think I saved my skin many times by reading catching some details I thought got it figured out. For instance I forgot to add RAM sinks to the VGU and I already ordered the parts. Petra's was kind enough to reopen the already sealed package and add the part.
2- For blow holes a holesaw seems cleaner and easier than Dremel.
3- The bigger the case the better it is. I have a nice mid size case and I kind struggled getting things connected avoiding touching the tubing.
4- Scrubbing Bubbles works great if you don't want to wait days with the vinegar process.
5- T-Line might be better approach if space is an issue.
6- Always Always use protective anti-static equipment :D
7- 7/16 Tubing for 1/2" barbs works great...you get that sense of security that having tubing very tight leaks will not be a problem. Hot water a must.
8- When tightening the barbs watch for the rubber "O" ring to not get out of place... if it goes out of place you are tightening too hard.. I saw some leaks when I was flushing the loop before leak test. I was worried about defective barbs but once I loosed the barbs a little bit the rubber ring got back to a circle shape and leak stopped. This is very important for those like me that have the submarine syndrome where we want everything very very tight.
9- Save money and flush the loop with water tap by placing one side of the tube on the tap and the other to a drain or sink... make pressure with hand and let the water go and flush for few minutes. You can also have a sense of your loop restrictions. Then grab a jug of distilled water and try to flush it with the pump On and the other side draining out to a sink.. right after that try to empty the loop, connect all together and proceed filling the loop with your favorite fluid.
10- For nOObs like me 12' of Tubing made it right. I had like 2 or 3 feet left. I used part of the tubing to do the Scrubbing Bubble flush.
11- Pump orientation. I like this one very much .. .Thanks Marcy, Best performance is achieved with inlet pointing at the ceiling, and outlet parallel to floor. Avoid running a D4 / D5 or DDC with inlet pointing at the floor and outlet parallel to floor. This will help to prime the pump by gravity.
12- VGU RAM Sinks with few drops of super glue is a must.
Thats pretty good temps for a single rad.
Just an fyi about upgrade, adding a second rad doesent give remotely the same performance boost as upgrading to a bigger rad. For many people it gives none... there are a number of factors which contribute to this, which I wont go into right now, but you might want to keep that in mind for the future.
To give you an idea, when I had my naked FX-53 I loaded @ your idle temps (39c) with 23c ambient, and that was with 2x 45CFM Yates and an X1900XTX in the loop. X1900XTX loaded @ 39c also.
Congrats Diesel! :clap:
What were your ambient temps while testing?
in the event you deside to get new rad get a triple (PA120.3)
this incase you get 2 7800 pci-e cards.
also keep in mind to change PSU to a higher one.
congrats on your pc Coming back to life...
Actually forgot to add that but ambient temp was pretty hot for my area "Michigan" the room temp was 87F/30C so I'm sure will get better temps in few months :DQuote:
Originally Posted by InTheFlow
Also when I got the aircooling temps the room temp was lower below 80F that I remember. So WC solution definitely was a step forward for me.
I will for sure do that move.. but next time I will buy a bigger case then no doubt I will use a triple Rad. Just wanted to keep my rig very low profile all enclosed this time.Quote:
Originally Posted by septim
Thanks for the advice.. taking notes here :D
Interesting thanks for the tip.. you will think having an extra rad and extra fluid will lower some numbers... scratching head :)Quote:
Originally Posted by creidiki
extra fluid does nothing for temperatues, just takes a little longer (minutes, unless you add many many gallons) for temps to reach stability.
the problems with extra rads, and the reason why they dont perform as well as bigger, single rads are:
- restriction scales geometrically instead of linearly. with a bigger rad compared to a smaller rad of the same model, the restriction from barbs & tanks is the same, and you only have the added restriction of the extra internal tubing.
so say, a triple will have (made up numbers here) 30cm pressure drop @ 1gpm, double will have 35cm, and triple will have 40cm.
with multiple rads, you'd have have 30cm for one, and 60cm for 2.
the end result is a measurable loss in flow loop-wide, with related loss of efficiency for components.
- on top of that, heat transfer efficiency is directly related to temperature delta, but it doesent scale linearly. with rads one after the other, the 2nd one will be far less effective, even if theyre both breathing cool air from outside the case.
if you put them in different places around the loop, they will both have smaller deltas and lose efficiency.
the 2 together mean that unless youre using TECs, multiple rad's advantages will balance out their disadvantages and you end up with the same temperatures as before.
Awesome explanation.. and makes sense... I see you know your business... so basically I'll stick with what I have until a new uprade ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by creidiki
Today I even got better temps... this time at room temp @ 79F we turned the AC ON and it seems to make some difference. Also I'm hoping to get some better temps after the thermal paste (AS5) settle down.
The VGU temp it's what looks sexy 7800GT clocked at 470Mhz/1.10Ghz
Here a screenie in Idle:
http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/8...ayat79frp9.jpg
lolz, try putting your pc in front of the AC, am sure you wont complain about temps. around 5C to 10C diff with AC on.
were you using regular tap water when you cleaned your blocks and radiator?
im all ready for my lcs. all the stuffs that i needed (except the water blocks) are arriving tomorrow. i think i can clean those on regular tap water but still hesitant cuz of corrosion?
regular tap water for stronger pressure getting dirt off
then vinegar bath for 1 or 2 or 3 soaking till vinegar is clean looking
then wash with distilled water
read maxxracerr's stickies pls...
I did exactly the same as Septim indicated except vinegar.. I used Scrubbing Bubbles and I will again every time.... it worked like a charm.. either way will work.. but Yes, tap water was key as you can flush out all the little dirties out without wasting distilled water.... just keep on the side 2 long pieces of tubing one to hook it up to the water tap (I held the tube by hand trying to avoid leaks throughQuote:
Originally Posted by septim
my fingers :D ) then the other tube to drain into the sink.
Then when done flushing everything out.. do a final rinse with distilled water to flush tap water out.. then apply your selected cooling fluid.
BTW: The long pieces of tubing I did not place them 100% on the barbs I semi connected them (half way through the barbs) just for the temporary flush.. that way I could easilly un-hook them up and re-use for the real loop. For 7/16 tubing will be a pain in the neck to disconnect.
I sprayed some scrubbing bubbles in the rad, shook it around like a nutjob, then garden hose'd it. Next I flushed with distilled water, and followed Maxxx's guide as the vinegar didn't come out all clear the first go-around.Quote:
Originally Posted by septim
unfortunately here i don't have scrubbing bubbles
only have nice strong detergent and lots of vinegar...
I read somewhere that on the back of the can it says "Do not use on brass", is that true?Quote:
Originally Posted by thunderstruck!
People use that product to actually clean the bath tubs and all the stuff around including brass devices and they actually look shiny right after. I'm guessing and based in my experience will not hurt if you don't use it in a prolonged period... 5 mins it's more than enough. IMOQuote:
Originally Posted by SiGfever
I jumped on the wagon and did it.... and loved the results.. I checked the blocks and radiator with a little flashlight and looked very nice and shiny inside.
Again that's just me ;)
And getting better.... this time I rotated the back 120mm fan to actually push air into the case and droppped some more degrees :D
Now the motherboard temp lowered almost 10C I was not happy with the northbridge temp.. I was always in the 30's when aircooling and with WC was hovering around 43C. Now it's back to the 30's also the CPU temps dropped few degrees as well.
BTW: I'm using this little temp monitor app called "Everest" pretty nice.... me like it... you can customize the display of many temp readings and they are very accurate. I compared the temps with other apps.
Room Temp: 87F/30C.
Top picture @ Full Load. Bottom Picture on Idle
http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/2410/backfaninde2.jpg
Its still reading off the (uncalibrated) mobo sensor, so its just as accurate. Or not, as the case may be. Just different offsets, is all. Dont trust any of them.
Right I understand those readings perhaps are not even close to reality but one thing it's for sure I used the same monitoring app before and after and saw the temps going down.. just to make sure I kept rotating that fan back and forth to confirm my results and indeed temps looked lower somehow :DQuote:
Originally Posted by creidiki