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I've seen similar problems (dots, blinking, restart), with poor heatsink contact (in your case the waterblock). Try this. Remove waterblock, and go back to the stock heatsink.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger_D25
(That is all assuming that the PSU you are using has worked properly with similar high-power video card, since that may also have caused this)
READ THE THREADQuote:
Originally Posted by skankinred
It seems (like others) you are confusing MANY different things together:
* initially, a typical variable resistor volt-mod was developed. It worked perfectly fine.. up to +0.07-0.09V. The IC monitors and ensures voltage is withing +/-0.1V.
* some clever guy noticed that the IC can use two voltage tables... replaced resistor mod to change from 1.2V->1.5V.
* however, to change the voltage all you have to do is give the IC a different Vid signal! Its like selecting a number from a list... thats how easy it is.
D508 to gnd => +0.1V
D511 to gnd => +0.2V
both => 0.3V
for 99% of people that's all you need to know.
* if you have the appropriate extreme cooling, and want 1.7V, yes, you follow Shamino/LardArse guide at vr-zone. It is both applicable to 7900GT and 7900GTX... however, remember that the Vid pins MUST still have a valid selection. (ie you CANT do both D511 and D508 to ground AND replace resistor.. that would be 1.5V +0.3V = 1.8V -> invalid)
Look, I understand the instructions perfectly. For 1.7V with water cooling, replace resistor with 50k pot and remove both voltage regulator resistors. Then ground D511 to gnd => +0.2V for a total of 1.7V.
My question was will this work with GT since YOUR post says it's for the GTX. Over at VR Zone it is shown under the GT section. Since VRZone said they took the information from YOUR post, I trust what you have to say first. But since your post says for "GTX" I wanted to know if it still works for GT, that's all.
Quote:
Originally Posted by skankinred
Case closed.Quote:
Originally Posted by ***Deimos***
He never said if it work on the GT before. I was simply asking if it does. Of course I read the thread. Look what I posted under my question .Quote:
Originally Posted by Richteralan
edited for flaming.
Deimos,
Thanks for the suggestion, it's probably the only thing I havn't done yet! It's now been almos 2 days and most of my problems have worked themselves out as weird as that sounds. Initially I was unable to run benchmarks, play games, or change clockspeeds either manually or by using the "Detect Optimal Frequencies" option. I could physically change the sliders to different speeds, and I could also hit the "Test Changes" button. The problems didn't start until after that when the "OK/Cancel" window would pop up after hitting the "Test Changes" button. If I clicked OK, my screen would immedietly fill up with artifacts, blinking on/off, and eventueally shut my system down.
Then late last night I tried for the hundredth time to manually change the clock speeds, well this time it worked fine, I clicked "Test Changes" and it did it's little test with no problems. After that I tried playing CODII for the hundredth time (every other time I played anygame it would just shut my system down within 3 minutes), again this time it worked fine! I played for about 2 hours with no major issues. The only problem was very minor artifacting when the background color was white, oddly enough after playing for about an hour this just went away and now I can play any game with no artifacts at all even if my card is overclocked.
The only remaing problem is if I hit the "Detect Optimal Frequencies" button. I just did and unlike every other time it actually went through the whole testing phase, then after it was done I went to hit "Apply" on the driver control panel and everything froze along with the same artifacting again? Because the problem is so random I can't make heads or tails of it?
All I have left to do is to pull the card out again and completly go through it with a visual inspection and to try the stock heatsink like you said. I didn't have any solvets to help remove conductive ink so I just used a tiny flat-head screwdriver and a magnifying glass to carefully scrape off resisdual ink but someone suggested using alcohol to remove any leftover stuff because it doesn't take much conductive ink to create a path between two things that shouldn't be connected! Thanks again guys for bearing with me through this!
Hi all :D i m new here :p
I am very interested in this 1,40 even 1,55v pen mod
I m about to buy a 7900gt
I wanna ask.. is there a difference between between these CO Superclocked (evga) or Extreeme TOP edition (asus) if i do the 1,55v mod (in the picture below) which are sold with higher clocks
I ll change the fan to VF900...
i have the fallowing choice..
XFX GeForce 7900GT XXX Edition 256MB PCIe 2xDVI/TV - Retail EUR 359,90
XFX GeForce 7900GT 256MB PCIe 2xDVI/TV - Retail EUR 309,90
XFX GeForce 7900GT Extreme Edition 256MB PCIe 2xDVI/TV - EUR 339,90
Club3D GeForce 7900GT 256MB PCIe 2xDVI/TV - Retail EUR 309,90
Gigabyte GeForce 7900GT 256MB PCIe 2xDVI/TV - Retail EUR 314,90
PNY Verto GeForce 7900GT 256MB PCIe 2xDVI/TV - Retail EUR 319,90
Asus Extreme N7900GT TOP 256MB PCIe 2xDVI/TV - Retail EUR 349,90
Asus Extreme N7900GT 256MB PCIe 2xDVI/TV - Retail EUR 319,90
MSI NX7900GT-T2D256E PCIe 256MB 2xDVI/TV - Retail EUR 304,90
Gainward Bliss 7900gt...
Pixelview 7900gt...
Any suggestion ?
Thx for any help in advance
http://img458.imageshack.us/my.php?i...vmod1552oc.jpg
I am pretty sure that all of the different 7900GT cards are very similar as far as hardware goes MoaFun, the main difference between the cards you metion (eVGA superclocked, Asus Extreme Edition) are their stock clockspeeds. Besides the clockspeeds and heatsink designs there is not much else differnt between any of the new 7900GT's. With that being the case and the fact that you will be replacing the stock heatsink anyway I would just get the cheapest one you can find. I say this because you will be putting a better heatsink on the card which should allow it to run cooler and there for allow you to run higher stable clockspeeds. I wouldn't even get the extreme edition or superclock cards as they are more money and part of the increased price is the better stock heatsink which you'll be replacing anyway. BTW, welcome to the forum!
MoaFun,
First of all, before all else, you should look at distinguishing features. eVGA has trade-up program. XFX has double-lifetime warranty.
As for clock speeds, you dont have to get the fastest one, but I would not advise getting the reference clock ones (450/1320), especially from smaller manufacturer. I posted about this already, but guess that nVidia does preliminary test, and ships fully functional at 450Mhz cores to board manufacturer's. After initial testing at 1.4V, the absolute best cores probably go to GTX (this would explain that even after 1.4V mod, GT's barely hit GTX clocks, whereas GTX get near 700). Now, I pressume manufacturer bins for OC versions.. ie the best cards go to OC versions.
Some OC versions have really high clock rates, but also price! But for only a few extra dollars you can get 500/1500 or 520/1500 versions which I think are the best deal.
:D haha Deimos.... almost the opposite of Roger_D
I'm am purchasing it online.... at the next stock available..(13/06/2006)
at a very popular online shop :D
sorry to ask but whats a trade-up program :D (my english sucks)...
well i was thinking about an XFX
XFX GeForce 7900GT XXX Edition 256MB PCIe 2xDVI/TV - Retail EUR 359,90 (550)
XFX GeForce 7900GT 256MB PCIe 2xDVI/TV - Retail EUR 309,90 (450)
XFX GeForce 7900GT Extreme Edition 256MB PCIe 2xDVI/TV - EUR 339,90 (520)
well I "just" want to get 700/1800 with an VF900 ... (with 1.55v pain mod)
I'll see which one is first available since all 7900 are out of stock everywhere :D
i have done the 1.4 volt mod.
Now i want to try the 1.55 mod. :rolleyes:
The blu line represents my actual mod
http://img388.imageshack.us/img388/5737/provamod9oq.jpg
I soldered the two points, I didn't use a pencil or silver paint.
To get 1.55v do i have to change the second soldered point from 511 to 508 (from the blu line to the yellow line?) Or I have to solder the 511 AND the 508 point?
And I also want to increase the memory voltage from 2.02 to 2.22
I tried whit a pencil but it doesn't work
Can i solder the 2 points whitout resistor? like the picture
http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/645/memorymod8jh.jpg
Thank you :woot: :woot:
What is the best chemical to use to remove the conductive ink.
I want to redo my 1.55v it seems i don't have a good enough trace to keep it running smoothly above 650.
It should actually just lift off with the use of a fine point needle. Otherwise, try Alcohol and if that doesnt work, finger nail polish remover :)
Rubbing AlcoholQuote:
Originally Posted by Dazog
/usr/bin/RantQuote:
Originally Posted by iL .PoLLo
I wont even bother answering; I'll do just as you, post another question when the answer has already been told atleast 10 times in the same thread.
killall -9 Rant
Then it did not have enough lead in it...Quote:
Originally Posted by iL .PoLLo
No, you can not solder the points, since you will then leak all current to ground that would otherwise go to the vsense pin on the voltage regulatorQuote:
Originally Posted by iL .PoLLo
it will think the chip is not getting any current at all and ramp it up as high as it can, blowing it up!
ROFL, now that made me laugh. You made my day.Quote:
Originally Posted by Per Hansson
Marlon
with this mod i can raise the core voltage in 0.05v steps from 1.2v up to 1.55v
Pencil's have been lead free since way back. They only contain graphite.Quote:
Originally Posted by Per Hansson
The problem you been experiencing is felt by many. Myself and a few others on hardforum.com and MANY more on the evga forums..it seems this problem is widespread so go here and read more stories of peoples problems like yoursQuote:
Originally Posted by Roger_D25
http://www.evga.com/community/messag...TOPIC_ID=13545
I just found this out today from someone on hardforum. I been meaning to tell you but it took forever for a moderator to activate me fully hehe.
Here is the link to the guy and myself having problems with eVGA 7900gt
http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1040429
Let us hope for the best. I know some people alreayd RMA their card to get a 2nd one and have the card have the same problem after a couple days! :(
So, i did the 1.4v mod and it worked great, I actually tried with a pencil and some compressed air first with no luck actually after my second attempt it turned all my screens blue normal boot, just gave everything a blue hue after that i went and got a defrost repair kit and some tape and it worked great, got 7900 gtx speeds, 650/1650 and even using the stock 7900 gt crappy cooler only hitting about max 60 and between 40-45 idle. I was wondering if their is an easy way to increase the memory voltage a little to squeeze more speed out of it?
Athlon 3000+ Venice at 2.6Ghz at 1.5v
Asus A8N SLI
1GB PQI Turbo DDR566
EVGA 7900 GT CO Superclock at 650/825 at 1.4v
250GB 7200RPM Maxtor Diamondmax
ULTRA X-CONNECT 500W PSU
My fathers EVGA 7900GT Superclock was just having the same problems, couldnt adjust core or memory speeds at all or it would lock up and give artifacts, like diff colored snow on the screen and games or benchmarks would not run through. It would lockup or if you closed a game or program computer would reboot after a few minutes of playing, we tried pretty much every hardware/driver solution we could think of and no luck. RMA'd it back to newegg yersterday, I would say thats your best bet, good luck.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger_D25
Athlon 3000+ Venice at 2.6Ghz at 1.5v
Asus A8N SLI
1GB PQI Turbo DDR566
EVGA 7900 GT CO Superclock at 650/825 at 1.4v
250GB 7200RPM Maxtor Diamondmax
ULTRA X-CONNECT 500W PSU
Hmm bad luck everyone having problems with the eVGA cards, I hope things work out for the best :cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by loser7787
I was soooo close to buying that card too mainly due to their very good warrantees but ended up saving quite a few $ (about a $100AU) with the MSI NX7900GT that seems to OC as well as any other card on the market;)
Yes there is, read the thread.Quote:
Originally Posted by loser7787
I've got my stock XFX 7900GT going just fine with the 1.4v mod.
Thanks for the info guys :)
http://img110.imageshack.us/img110/5...651core8by.jpg
:banana::banana::banana::banana:, my eVGA card is messed up. I try to run 3dmark06 and it blinks on and off, or artifacts till blue screen, or freezes and reboots. Time to RMA this POS. Too bad I was getting 8400 score in 3dmark 06 before it craped out on me.
Did you do something to that evga ? mods ?
Nope, everything running at stock. Just a random hardware malfunction. Happens to any electronics. Thank god I got eVGA. They are going to send out a new card first, then I send in the defective one back.
eVGA's rma policy and warranty rule!
Quote:
Nope, everything running at stock. Just a random hardware malfunction. Happens to any electronics.
Errmm ? Am I missing something ? :fact: :DQuote:
eVGA 7900GT @800mhz 1.7vmod
hmm. did you vmod your card and start having problems then try backing it down to stock? If that's the case you ran your card too high and the failure is your own fault. 1.7v isn't something to run throug these babies for long unless you've got exceptional cooling. The review that got 800mhz at 1.7v only benched, and they had a massive heatsink and a big fan.
The 1.7 is on another card. What's wrong with running 1.7 24/7 with water cooling + ramsinks and case fan blowing on it? It shouldn't be that bad.
if you have water cooling then I don't see anything wrong. with what graham_h pointed out from your sig I thought you might have fried your card trying 1.7 on basic air cooling or something.
Sorry I should of mentioned I bought two of these 7900's.
1.7v on a 7900GT is borderline I'd say
The VRM setup can simply not handle all that current, measure the temp of the mosfets and activley cool them IMNSHO
Remember; the difference between the 7900GT and GTX is mostly the VRM layout and active cooling for the mosfets... And that is for 1.4v...
So as long as I don't go any further I should be perfectly fine?Quote:
Originally Posted by Per Hansson
Per Hansson, you think my vf900cu is well enough for active cooling of the mosfets as far as air cooling goes or should I try to augment that? One of my case fans is also directly supply fresh air towards my 7900gt.
You can't go any further than 1.7. Well, I suppose you could, but it would require extensive further modification.Quote:
Originally Posted by skankinred
i got a strange one. i got two of these, and ive moded both, but one wont take.
the good one is now doing 620/2000 on 1.37v. the other card, ive redont the mod maby a few dozen times now and still havent got the voltage to increase. its realy starting to iritate me. is there any reason it wouldent take?
which mod are you doing? I would suggest the easy conductive tracer mods for 1.4 and 1.55 first since it's so easy to remove if needed.
http://img458.imageshack.us/img458/8...d1552oc.th.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...asy1-4vmod.jpg
i finaly go it to work after i went to town and back, it was just working, so i guess i wasnt leaving enough time for it to dry.
clocks now, run through 06, 611/1808mhz. 9015 marks.
What 3dmark score did you get @ 800mhz core? :slobber:Quote:
Originally Posted by skankinred
can someone dig up the pic for the 1.55v mod with the conductive pen please, I can't seem to find it.
Would it be ok using the stock cooler ?
graham.....can you scroll up 1 post and look at it yourself? I just posted 1.55 and 1.4mods. Garret just quoted my post above yours too. C'mon now....:banana: :banana: :eek: :banana: :banana:
I got 9200 in 3dmark06.
must have been a blonde moment for him...Quote:
Originally Posted by skankinred
In graham's defense, I didn't realize the first picture amongst those was the 1.55v mod till I clicked it just now since the other two are the 1.4v mods.
Nothing wrong with YOU running 1.7V 24/7.. its just that I wouldn't do it. Afterall, its only 90nm, 7900GT is 1.2V stock, and GTX's 1.4V is already pushing it. Besides, unless you are trying to sqeeze every single Mhz, after 1.4-1.5V there is very little gains on Mhz.Quote:
Originally Posted by skankinred
But, then again, you're obviously the kind of guy who would just as well put 2.7V, just to get extra 1%.
Strangers with honesty like this, make me grow a big rubbery one.
and that offically is the creepiest thing I have heard all week...Quote:
Originally Posted by skankinred
according to VR-ZONE that if i shade in a certain resistor with a pencil http://sg.vr-zone.com/?i=3330&s=2 then my vmem will go from 2.02v up to 2.23v. Ive already done the gpu mod to 1.4v, i was just wondering should i use a pencil on the resistor like vr-zone says or should I use the car defrost stuff on it, would a pencil be effective enough or would it be better to just use the conductive paint?
Athlon 3000+ Venice at 2.6Ghz at 1.5v
Asus A8N SLI
1GB PQI Turbo DDR566
EVGA 7900 GT CO Superclock at 650/825 at 1.4v
250GB 7200RPM Maxtor Diamondmax
ULTRA X-CONNECT 500W PSU
the problems are happening to nonoverclocked/modded 7900gt too so it isnt the vmod.
The point to using a pencil is to lower the resistance slightly. If you use conductive paint you will short it out completely, which would put way to much voltage through your ram.Quote:
Originally Posted by loser7787
Alright, so when i shade in the resistor with a pencil the memory voltage will increase only to 2.23? Theres not a chance that the voltage will be more or less than that? Will any pencil work? and does it matter how much it is shaded? Just making sure not to fry my memory...ive had to RMA way to many video cards :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by quijonsith
The more you shade it the more voltage you will get. Unless you caked lead onto the resistor you couldn't increase the voltage enough to utterly fry the ram (though I recommend using ramsinks whether or not you do this). I used a standard mechanical pencil, but I can't find my multimeter to check the voltage. I shaded lightly over it back and forth in criss cross patterns until it was evenly covered and I can run my mem at 925 artifact free so mine could stand a lil more lead, though I'm planning to solder in a variable resistor in parallel so I can control the voltage with accuracy (once I find my multimeter).
Quote:
Originally Posted by loser7787
Quote:
Originally Posted by iL .PoLLo
Quote:
Originally Posted by Per Hansson
What I was saying is that the 7900GT was never even deigned to handle 1.4v, i.e. it is a scaled down design from the 7900GTX... And there is never such a thing as perfectly fine...Quote:
Originally Posted by skankinred
It's allot better than only stock cooling, or water, which does nothing for the VRM layout, As I said in me first post (I think) check the temps with the card stock and then voltmodded, try to keep the temps low...Quote:
Originally Posted by quijonsith
alright, so i did the pencil mod to increase the memory voltage....my question now is im running my memory at 850x2 and using ati tool to check for artifacts and im not getting any but while checking for artifacts the ram is very hot to the touch, is this normal? Im sure ati tool must be stressing the memory as much as it possibly can....its hot but im not receiving any artifacts, right now im gonna run 3dmark06 a bunch of times to make sure it gets through fine.....i was just wondering if I should stop now because of the heat, or if its safe to slowly test the memory higher and higher as long as im not artifacting/locking up?
As a general rule of thumb an increase of 10°C reduces a cheramic comonents life of 50%Quote:
Originally Posted by loser7787
You should provide cooling for the memory, it is only rated at 1.8v +-0,1v, so they are even being run out of spec from the start at 2.0v
Also, atleast for me ATI Tool does not work with my 7900, but that might be just me or something, i.e. it does not find any artefacts when I enable "compatible mode" but if I try the regular mode it finds artefacts even after a 5mhz OC... (when 3dmark03 and Rthdribl does not)
you have to use the latest version for it to workQuote:
Originally Posted by Per Hansson
http://www.techpowerup.com/atitool/
it wont change your voltage but it will detect artifacts and your max speeds :up:
Well, I am using v0.25 Beta 14...Quote:
Originally Posted by nn_step
I actually just added some mini heatsinks to the memory that came with my old Epox mobo, hopefully that would help the memory a little, i was only actually able to put them out 7 out of the 8 ram chips, being as one of them is basically under the gpu heatsink, I dont really mind that 10 degrees extra kills the life by 50%, i mean the average graphics card should live at least 5 or 6 years if not alot longer, and i doubt in 5 or 6 years i'll still have this card anyway, and the performance of these modded 7900 gt's is just sick! :cool:
loser7787; and following that analogy say your chips runs 25°C varmer now then before? That's why I said take measurements...
When running ATI Tools scan for artifacts option are you supposed to see all of those little yellow dots on the 3d cube, i figure those would be artifacts but it tells me no artifacts are being found, but I am getting little yellow dots, thanks for any help.
well i just realized the artifacts were actually coming from the 650 core clock and not the memory, still wierd that its not telling me theirs artifacts but after lowering the core down to 630 the yellow dots are gone, guess thats the max my cores gonna get to, now testing the memory, im just hoping i can see the artifacts because of the program saying im not getting any, anyone now why this is happening?
is there any way to check if the 1.4v mod is successful without using a volt meter ?
That is exactly what I am seeing, and the "artefacts" follow a pattern on my system, just located on a line about 1/3 down on the thing being rendered...Quote:
Originally Posted by loser7787
As I said I get artefacts real early in ATI Tool but can go way way high in real apps, the Pixelshader 2.0 test in 3dmark03 is a very good test to see if you have artefacts, it is what I use, in combination with Rthdribl...
If the "detect optimal" setting selects a higher clock than before the mod.Quote:
Originally Posted by graham_h
I've seen that happen aswell. I'm pretty sure it's happened if I adjust the frequencies while the artifact scanner is running. The only way I've gotten it to detect artifacts after that is by restarting atiTool. Try stopping the artifact scanner before changing your clocks and see if it still does this. I'm not sure if that's when it's happening and I'm bout to go to bed or I'd go ahead and try it to make sure. I'll give it another go when I get up.Quote:
Originally Posted by loser7787
I really hate people who continually break video cards because of their incompetence, and dont take responsiblity for their actions (like you).Quote:
Originally Posted by loser7787
You SHOULDN'T be overclocking/overvolting or touching anything, and expect the manufacturer to compensate you because you dont have a clue how to volt-mod ("will any pencil work?"). People who break cards and then RMA them, cause low availability and high prices for the rest of us...
--------
ATITool
There is no good software means to detect all artifacts. Those yellow dots are "artifacts", typically because GPU or MEM clocks or too high (or overheating). However, sometimes ATITool still says no artifacts detected even if there is the odd dot or two. And even if it doesnt detect anything for hours, there are many kinds of errors that would not be visible as artifacts. It is insufficient to just run some game benchmark, and if it passes (even without any graphical glitches), to conclude that everything is ok. Afterall, after a short 4-5min benchmark, the card has just begun to heat up. Looping 3DMark is a good place to start.
Well, I can understand that, but I've never actually been responsible for any of the cards that I've had to RMA, I got a 6800 vanilla from newegg and it died after about 2 days of use, then rma'd that for a 6600gt that was DOA and then rma'd that just to get another 6600gt with the heatsink ripped right off the card :eek: I dont see how that is because of my incompetence, Ive never fried a card before and i dont want to start now. Especially since it voids any warranty my card has. Im just asking all these question cause ive never physically modded a card before and i'd rather be safe then sorry, I thought maybe a harder/softer pencil type may have a better/worse effect and i'd like to know before i just start doing something to where i may damage the card and alot of people on these forums really seem to know what their talking about.Quote:
Originally Posted by ***Deimos***
I also understand that these yellow dots are artifacts but like Per Hansson was saying they are following a strange pattern on my system also and I can run my core higher in other programs and not get any artifacts and was wondering maybe theirs a problem with ATI Tool and 7900's possibly?
Im gonna try the Pixel Shader 2.0 in 3dmark03 to check for artifacts although after every few mhz I do overclock I always run 3dmark2001, 03, and 06 along with aquamark and letting 3dmark06 loops for around an hour just to get everything nice and warm to make sure its stable at these speeds along with benchmarking most every graphically intense FPS around, does anyone have any suggestion on other programs to use for checking artifacts and stability? Thanks for any help.
Well, I actually asked Wizzard about them and his reply was "Wizzard, 2006-04-01 14:35 : dunno .. send me a 7900 and i can try :)" :DQuote:
Originally Posted by loser7787
The apps you use are the best for the purpose, atleast AFAIK
EDIT; reading the beta thread on ATI Tool@Techpowerup I found this "The last version that would detect artifacts was 25B12a" so use either it or go back to 0.24 stable...
Hey Guys,
I've been away from the forum for a few days because my 7900GT has not been very consistant, lol! Somedays it will work just fine, I can overclock manually using sliders in control panel sometimes but others as soon as I click "Test Changes" and then click "OK", bam, it all goes to hell (reboots, shutdowns, massive articfacts, blinking on/off, etc... Sometimes only one of these things happen, others they all happen, and others everything worked great with no problems). The only consistant thing that happens, takes place when I hit "Detect Optimal Frequencies", after I click the "OK" to start testing for Optimal Frequencys my screen alwasy breaks out with hundreds of tiney green and red dots, starts blinking on and off, than goes all black even though computer is still running.
I know other's have posted this same stuff over and over but it helps to know that others are having same problem. I've also been in touch with eVGA who have been very helpful and already gave me an RMA number. I'd like to cross-ship the RMA (They ship out replacment and then you have 30days to return defected card) but I read on the webite this is only possible with 7800GT cards, can anyone give me there experiance with their cross-ship RMA's through eVGA please? That would kicka** because we all hate to be without out computers, even for just a few days!
Also I wanted to thank everyone for all the great info in this forum and especially in this thread, keep it up guys! o-yeah, I've tried 2 official eVGA BIOS versions for the 7900GT but the same problems continue.
It's actually for all 7800 series cards and up. So you willl be fine with cross shipping.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger_D25
Shark-357 can you post your pic of the 1.5v mod again it doesn't load for me on page 8
Yup, i went to the same forums and eventually downloaded 25B12a and it will beep and tell you when it finds the artifacts which does help, my gpu starts to artifact at 650 although this is oooonly with ATI Tool no other programs show any at 650 or even 675, but as for now im running at 630 just to be safe. At 630/900 I get a good 20fps increase from a stock 7900gt in most games. Which I am happy with :banana:Quote:
Originally Posted by Per Hansson
Interesting, ATI Tool v0.25 b14 does the same, i.e. it shows artefacts at exactly 650Mhz, I can go up to 690Mhz without issues in other apps though. But with the stock HSF I reach 70°C here so I have not gone higher, waiting for a waterpump for my cooling system, then will push the card higher and v-mod it with a dipswitch...Quote:
Originally Posted by loser7787
After doing the simple 1.4V mod I have found that two IC's get VERY hot when under load so small HS may be needed. just my opinion :)
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b2...0ne/HotICs.jpg
Have you put some HS in those IC's ?Quote:
Originally Posted by alpha0ne
Anyone more confirms this ?
Yes I have put some sinks on them, the IC's are probably OK even running twice as hot but better safe than sorry and its an easy thing to just put sinks on :)
I can confirm this, these two gets very hot, even on the 1.3V mod (which I have)
Isn't this a bit strange, since those two IC's control vmem and not vgpu...?
I don't know how warm those ICs were before the Vmod
I had an extra couple of bga copper ram sinks I put on those 2 IC's. For anyone not sure about volt mods, you REALLY do need a multi meter. Not only does it ensure you're getting the proper volts from the mod, but you need it to measure ohms when doing pencil mods. Its like driving in the fog at 120 mph with no headlights.
If you don't have the equip, don't do the mod!
I didn't want to make anyone upset but I feel the same way Haltech! Voltmodding your cards without a way to measure either resistance or voltage can be dangerous and at the very least makes it difficult to properly do the mod. I think this becomes especially true when modding with "Pencil" because your not just connecting 2 points, you are trying to lower the resistance to increase voltage and this needs to be somewhat accurate to get to the voltage you want. Basically just be careful, and remember it's cheaper to buy a halfway decent multi-meter than it is to buy a new card!
Sure here´s how i did the 1.55V modQuote:
Originally Posted by graham_h
http://img417.imageshack.us/img417/4...lified13je.jpg
this is also 1.55 right ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ebola
Thank you for the larger picture.. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Shark-357
Can anyone confirm that those IC's are also hot @ 1,2v (default vgpu) !!?
Because if those IC's are used for the mem circuit, then it should not get hotter with the vgpu mod's. But can those IC's + HS provide a better mem OC ?
And as for the need of a multimeter, I think it's very wise to have and use one (I have/use). But I thing that the 1,4/1,5 pen mod's are so easy and trouble safe that if it is done with atention you can pass well without a multimeter. ;)
I don't think you need a meter for the basic conductive ink vCore mods, but I don't recommend the vMem mod without one.
What about the mem themselves? Do they get pretty warm after the pencil mod? I ask as I don't have any bga sinks readily available and I want to do the vmem mod. If they don't get too hot I will give it a whirl.
My 1.4V mod can enabled and disabled using a jumper so I put it back to default and the two IC's are still by far the hottest components in my whole rig :fact: :)Quote:
Originally Posted by jVIDIA
Here is my experience.
I have a XFX 7900GT Extreme Edition 520/1500 (default speed)
I did the "easy volt" mod (ink) and the switching frequency mod (pencil). It took 15 minutes to perform both mods.
I swapped the heatsink to a Zalman VF700cu. (The stock heat sink is loud and hot running)
I run my Zalman at the slowest possible speed and it is completely quiet. Not bad for a top of the line graphics card. I hate fan noise!
As a comparison:
The Stock fan temperature was 52c idle and 83c during load. = LOUD
The Zalman at the slowest possible speed, 49c idle and 68 during load. = quiet
1.20 volt, max overclock: 540/1770
1.40 volt, max overclock: 645/1770
1.45 volt, max overclock: 662/1770
1.50 volt, max overclock: 682/1770
1.55 volt, max overclock: I haven’t tried it yet. But it looks like 700Mhz is possible.
I really have no need to push it further since my AMD 64 3200+ CPU is a total bottle neck. I ran a 3dmark05 with 7900GTX speed settings (650/1600). It scored 9603 3dmark05 points. A 4400+ X2 probably would have scored 10,500 to 11,000 points.
By the way. I paid $309 including shipping at ZipZoomfly.com
iluv2fly , your "max overclock" is the "Find Optimal Freq." or is you manual OC without artcrafts ?
Can anyone confirm, especially those with vmem mods and high overclocks, that the ram modules are K4J55323QG-BC14? I just received my Sparkle 7900GT, which is not exactly known as a stellar brand, and it has a blue pcb -- so I fear they may have strayed further from the reference design.
Wish I could help ya wma, but I've got ramsinks on mine so I can't really take a look anymore.
wma,
I have an eVGA 7900GT with stock clocks of 500/1500 and the memory IC's are also BC14's so I think you'll be fine. This stuff does much better than the older memory from Infinion on the 7800GT's.
Thanks Roger. I was a bit worried when I saw it's only rated at 700MHz, but I got mine to 1800MHz DDR just fine at stock.
That's artifact free. Anything above it and I will have artifacts.Quote:
Originally Posted by jVIDIA
Those IC are connected to the memory and other components. Everything on the PCB is connected someway (through something) to the GPU. If the GPU gets hot, so does everything else. During phase-change VRAM cooling, Shamino found, its just better to adequately cool the GPU, and the VRAM will stay cool.Quote:
Originally Posted by jVIDIA
thank you so much for the GPU scaling results! Perhaps in the future you will try again with the Zalman on high setting (instead of lowest).Quote:
Originally Posted by iluv2fly
iluv2fly, after seeing your results I became more happy with my card because @ 1.50v it passes the coolbits test with 686/900. :D
With Powerstrip or ATITool it goes higher w/o artifacts !
I've passed the test with 686/920 too.
Could either the NV5 or a Zalman VF700cu handle the 1.55mod in a small FF pc?
Thanks.
I don't think so...unless you had extremly good airflow and low ambient tempsQuote:
Originally Posted by turbo
Mine starts getting a bit warm with 1.5v on water
If you have good air conditioning and good case air flow the vf700cu might be able to. My vf900cu does fine on my 1.5v mod and does great when my a/c works. I don't know for sure if the vf700cu could, but I hear it's comparable performance to my vf900. I don't know the capability of the NV5, but considering that it exhausts the air out of the case will keep the case temps from affecting it as much as with a vf700 or 900.
EDIT: definition of "fine" when my a/c isn't working and I let ATItool heat it up my core temp's highest is 61c. When my a/c is working highest is 55c. When playing oblivion highest is 50 w/out a/c.