Removing the A64 IHS

I thought i'd try removing the IHS, just for fun to see if i could get a better overclock and hit 2.6Ghz with my 3000+ Winchester...it didn't work. Not only that, i have a dead chip now! :( Lucky i'm gonna upgrade to Venice anyway, but it means having to go for the 3200 instead of the 3500 / 3700, so that i actually have a working PC!!!

Plus it's a bank holiday here in the UK; so unless PC world happen to have a venice lying around tomorrow, it'll be middle / end of next week until i can get hold of a chip! But if it's a good OCer i'll forget my recent mishaps. ;)

Will not be removing another IHS in a hurry! :slapass:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CD 1986

I thought i'd try removing the IHS, just for fun to see if i could get a better overclock and hit 2.6Ghz with my 3000+ Winchester...it didn't work. Not only that, i have a dead chip now! :( Lucky i'm gonna upgrade to Venice anyway, but it means having to go for the 3200 instead of the 3500 / 3700, so that i actually have a working PC!!!

Plus it's a bank holiday here in the UK; so unless PC world happen to have a venice lying around tomorrow, it'll be middle / end of next week until i can get hold of a chip! But if it's a good OCer i'll forget my recent mishaps. ;)

Will not be removing another IHS in a hurry! :slapass:

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What exactly had happend? Did you cut those little things or cracked your core?

Edited by conrad.maranan

Edited by conrad.maranan

Edited by conrad.maranan

i have removed ihs too. theres nothing good for me, just lost warranty :(
there is no t drop - no better clocking - all the same.
its a64 3200 winchester... removing was easy, like others said

sorry about my english :stick:

Hi, this is my first post at this forum :cool:

I want to show you my A64 NC 2800+ with Ihs removed, it`s looking quit nice :) Temperatures are lower than 5-6*C in stress.

http://ocmaster.hardtech.pl/mody/nakedcore.jpg
http://ocmaster.hardtech.pl/mody/breloczek.jpg


Enjoy :)

sorry for my english ;)

what heatsink do you have?

i was thinking about doing this but i'm afraid i'd crush my core...

~Fizz

Welcome. Nice keychain, but i think you posted in the wrong section. Actually, i'm quite sure.

What clocks do you get with that baby ?

Nice idea the keyring :clap:

I took my IHS off from Venice yesterday.
It was a hell compared to me old 3200 clawhammer.
And the core is sooo tiny and got scared just looking at it and thinking about my XP-120.

ubermann please take some pics

@daddy_fizz --> something such blue(?) silicone heatsink.

@M1nDH4cK --> Actually on AC 2650Mhz on 1,75Vcore....I`ve done vcore/vdimm/vdd mods on my Asus K8N mainboard, and I can set 2V Vcore :D :D Toomorow I will end my Freon Cooling and I wont to reach 2,8GHz ;)

@jiff --> thx

Quote:

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Originally Posted by OCMaster

@M1nDH4cK --> Actually on AC 2650Mhz on 1,75Vcore....I`ve done vcore/vdimm/vdd mods on my Asus K8N mainboard, and I can set 2V Vcore :D :D Toomorow I will done my Freon Cooling and I wont to reach 2,8GHz ;)

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I can only wish you the best of luck. :)
Oh, and if you want my advice : Do NOT pump it with 2 Volts. :explode2:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by M1nDH4cK

I can only wish you the best of luck. :)
Oh, and if you want my advice : Do NOT pump it with 2 Volts. :explode2:

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OK, I will remember ;)

I want to set 1,85-1,9V...I think that`s "safety" on FC ;) On my first FC I have -5*C iddle / +9 stress on r600a....now i think that -20*c iddle / 0*C stress :D :D

Got myself such a keyring as well ;)

Nice job on pulling the IHS off. I tried to do it on my 3700+ a lil while ago, but I got so nervous cutting into it (I thought I might cut the silicon by accident). So I just left it on :(

Quote:

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Originally Posted by twilius_basic

Nice job on pulling the IHS off. I tried to do it on my 3700+ a lil while ago, but I got so nervous cutting into it (I thought I might cut the silicon by accident). So I just left it on :(

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it isnt like it provides that much better of temps anyway

it dropped load temps ~8c on my clawhammer. that's decent imo ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ozzimark

it dropped load temps ~8c on my clawhammer. that's decent imo ;)

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was it making decent contact with the core?
i suppose that if it really drops load temps by that much, i may have to remove it from my NC, although i might want to epoxy the thinnest piece of flat copper i can find on top to protect from chipping...

it wasn't too bad. the actual removal of the IHS was around 6c, then i lapped the core cause it was rounded a bit, another 2c or so off.

though, i highly advise against lapping cores. it's not safe unless you don't care anyway :slap:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by totensiebush

it isnt like it provides that much better of temps anyway

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well i took the ihs off my 3700 diego core and droped 14 degrees celcius under load and gained prime stable from 2550 to 2725 and lost 14 degrees in between gaining 175 mhz more prime stable oc so yes for some it is worth it.

this is how i look at it if your using a copper base heatsink or watercooling and youre temps are high anyways it is probably because the contact is bad and you will get good improvements

if you using aluminum base heatsink and your temps is good then you have good contact and temps get worse going from copper spreader to aluminum on your heatsink

if you are using a copper waterblock for water cooling i can guarantee its worth it in any case as you will loose atleast 5-10 c and gain more oc and in my case loose 14c and gain huge oc increase of 175mhz so if on watercooling and getting 45c+ temps then do it but if your load temps are less then 40 then there is no gain to be had as my temps under load 1.725 volts went from 56c and fail prime in 5 minutes to 42c and pass prime all night long
________
Coach purses

It depends on your cooler. With my 7700CU, I could easily remove the IHS and just put a piece of metal as thick as or
thicker than the IHS under the retention clip on the inside of the heatsink where it pushes upon for tension to compensate.

If it always worked absolutely perfectly it'd just be the way candycan :D
Atleast yours is still ok

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TekXoID

It depends on your cooler. With my 7700CU, I could easily remove the IHS and just put a piece of metal as thick as or
thicker than the IHS under the retention clip on the inside of the heatsink where it pushes upon for tension to compensate.

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So you're running with a stripped venice + 7700Cu?
I'm seriously considering this because of my temps, much higher than my winnie (8-10C higher @ same speed and voltage), but seeing how people are afraid to break NC cores with water blocks, what do you think I am with this tiny tiny core? :slapass:

listen, take off the IHS, slap some AS5 in there, and put the IHS back on...makes for a better mount anyway...and just make sure that you cover the complete top of the IHS...it will all turn out good that way. 2600+ sempy @ 1.775v running FAH 100% load....41c w/ thermaltake beetle.... :fact:

ok, i took the IHS off my SD3700+ today

running prime large fft now at 2860mhz, before i was at 2700

temps dropped from 56°C load to ~40

I think it is very tempting to remove IHS for all these people reading this thread :) It is really not hard to do, but remember there is always risk of damaging your chip or not gaining anything ... however I still think it is worth it ... IHS makes a nice keychain :D :woot:

remember do not poke the razor blade too deep - 0.5 cm is enough. ;)

:toast:

I think I am going to do this.
Be the first Sempron without an IHS?

Maybe :cool:

As your core is 90 nm then you have much bigger reason to remove it :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana:

Wish you luck :toast:

Still thinking about it... ;)
Two more questions, tho:

1) What happens if you try to start the computer without a heatsink (i.e. without contact), just in case it happens? I've heard that A64's should be able to handle this and simply shut down in time, will they?

2) Is it easy to get the IHS back on? Again, see above question, what if the contact between core and IHS isn't good enough? :(

Should i enconter any problems when putting 7000B-ALCU on naked core ? When do i know core has good contact with cooler and how do i know if i strighten it enough ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TEDY

Should i enconter any problems when putting 7000B-ALCU on naked core ? When do i know core has good contact with cooler and how do i know if i strighten it enough ?

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i had to bend the bar that holds down the heatsink for good contact. not too difficult though ;)

exscape. technically, yes, it'll just shut down, but i wouldn't try it...

i didnt quite understood you :d

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ozzimark

i had to bend the bar that holds down the heatsink for good contact. not too difficult though ;)

exscape. technically, yes, it'll just shut down, but i wouldn't try it...

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What did you gain with better contact?

http://www.tomshardware.com/cpu/2004...ype_s-type.jpg
You mean you bent those, or what? :o
I don't feel like getting my HS out of the computer just yet so I'll ask instead ;)

Bah, didn't work out too great. Removing it went great, but I couldn't get the heatsink to sit stable at all... Even when I screwed it as hard as possible (well, almost) it wiggled back and forth *way* too much for me to even try it. I glued the IHS back on and put som AS5 in there tho.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by exscape

Bah, didn't work out too great. Removing it went great, but I couldn't get the heatsink to sit stable at all... Even when I screwed it as hard as possible (well, almost) it wiggled back and forth *way* too much for me to even try it. I glued the IHS back on and put som AS5 in there tho.

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Which Heatsink are you using ?

CNPS7700-AlCu. I might have done the same even if it did fit though, the core is sooo small that I got scared just thinking about the huge heatsink ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by totensiebush

it isnt like it provides that much better of temps anyway

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http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postcount=333

Quote:

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Originally Posted by totensiebush

it isnt like it provides that much better of temps anyway

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http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postcount=333

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ref

What did you gain with better contact?

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yup, before i tightened it down, the heatsink was practically wobbling around on the lid-less core.. not a good thing. :eek:

What part of the heatsink did you bend? I really want to try again and I had the exact same problem, I could basically run the heatsink along all the edges of the core!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by exscape

What part of the heatsink did you bend? I really want to try again and I had the exact same problem, I could basically run the heatsink along all the edges of the core!

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by ozzimark

i had to bend the bar that holds down the heatsink for good contact. not too difficult though ;)

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That pretty much answers it.

Nope, 'cause I still don't see if it's the part that is actually part of the heatsink (a long, straight metal bar) or the S/L-type thingys you put the screws through. :am:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by exscape

the S/L-type thingys you put the screws through. :am:

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This one.

Still doesn't work. :(
The clips just bends back when I screw it to the motherboard and everything is just as loose as before. :(

Quote:

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Originally Posted by exscape

Still doesn't work. :(
The clips just bends back when I screw it to the motherboard and everything is just as loose as before. :(

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Try to insert something between the clip and heatsink.

What The?!?! I made a new post and it's now gone? What gives?

Anyways, I bought an XP-90 heat sync and with the IHS off with artic silver 5 thermal paste I get a load temp of only 35C at room temp of about 20C with my alpha6 the best I could ever get was about 42C under load. I can now overclock 80Mhz more as my max and with default voltage I can clock 50Mhz higher. Not bad for what was an already low temp. To test how stable this was I used super PI with 8M digits.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cu2day

What The?!?! I made a new post and it's now gone? What gives?

Anyways, I bought an XP-90 heat sync and with the IHS off with artic silver 5 thermal paste I get a load temp of only 35C at room temp of about 20C with my alpha6 the best I could ever get was about 42C under load. I can now overclock 80Mhz more as my max and with default voltage I can clock 50Mhz higher. Not bad for what was an already low temp. To test how stable this was I used super PI with 8M digits.

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:woot:
What heatsink have you used before?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cu2day

Anyways, I bought an XP-90 heat sync and with the IHS off ...

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I have an XP-90C, but I'm worried about mounting it onto a bare core. When mounting, the clip-method does not apply pressure evenly, same when removing the hsf.

Did you do anything special for mounting?

Ok, had to get a new heatsink as my stock one the retention clip broke.
Using a Zalman 7000-AlCu.
Before. With IHS.
Room Temp. 20C or a bit less.
Idle 45c
Load 55c
Now. No IHS.
Room Temp. 30c or so..
Idle 39c
Load 55c

For any small core (Newcastle/Venice/San Diego), I would recommend using a soft support of some kind on each corner of the processor. The foam pads from an Athlon K7 work well. You can use a razor blade to scrape them off, and then a very small amount of superglue to attach them to the A64. If you ever need to remove them, use a drop or two of acetone on the pads and then scrape them off like you did before with a razor blade. Use acetone and a Q-tip or razorblade to remove any remaining glue residue.

I wouldn't worry about this with a Clawhammer, as the die is practically the size of the IHS...

Here's a pic of my Turion64 with the pads installed. Every since I chipped the core of an old 2800+ Newcastle, I've been extra careful with my A64s. :stick:

My old heat sync was the Cooler Master Hyper6, it was too heavy and tall to cool my bare CPU core without the IHS. I have the XP90 non copper, and use nothing at all to hold the heat sync tighter. If I'd of got the copper version it would most likely be too heavy again for go without the IHS. I manage to top out at 38C after hours of load at a room temp of about 22C at 1.475volts from 2Ghz to 2.3Ghz and that is with my fans set to low speed though I am using a 120mm fan on my xp90 which works well with low RPM cooling 1800 RPM to be exact.

Posted this in the sandy discussion thread, (due to a discussion about sandy temps) but will do it here too, because this is really were it belongs. Here's a nice pic of the core and the spreader too, hehe. :)

I just did a bit of surgery, dropped my idle temps from 42c to 32c literally. Also, I guess I answered my own question, heh, what was on that spreader? Plastic gooey shin etsu, same stuff amd has been coating stock HS's with for yrs, NOT good, 1 layer of plastic + 1 layer of copper + 1 more layer of plastic (for those who are too afraid to use anything else) + a stock HS = crap for temps. I imagine I would have been at about 45c idle if I did have that 2nd layer of junk. So glad I took it off. The core is small, heh. fyi, I had to sand down my dfi HS bracket all the way except for 1/10 of a centimeter. I ran a 8 min super pi just to see how high the temps would spike, they didn't go past 42c. 10c must be pretty consistent for a temp spike seeing as how everyone else is getting about a 10c spike, 3 gigs, here I come, heh.

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/neeb_v...de.jpg&.src=ph

finally remove the IHS of my crap venice... only 2.75Ghz on 1.68v..

I don't want to lap it since also void warranty so took the heart out to remove it....

load temp reduce by 11 degree celcius and now at 41 on load...

heres the pics:
<img src="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y5/wingzero99/DSC00011.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com">
<img src="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y5/wingzero99/DSC00010.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com">

took less than 15 mins to slice off the ihs but 4 hours to repair bend pins... :slapass: y don't amd use those pga like intel....no pins!!!! :D

thanks for all the informations and now back to overclock this chip....

lol, ist that mounting for the cpu block self-made? mine looks exactly the same :D

http://www.kanetti.fi/~electroid/mod...insu_shimm.jpg Winnie + Radeon Shimm

Hopefully someone can help. I had a 3500+ I sliced and cut into the board (Didn't realize it lapped the IHS and reapplied causing it to short). I killed my 4000+ sliced it and all went well. At first. Used nail polish to cover the chips around the core since I wanted to use DI eventually. Put on my waterblock and was careful. Booted for a sec. and died. I found one of the chips arced against the H2O block. Saw the burn on both. Now I am really considering doing it on my FX but what should I use to keep it from shorting. (I hate grease)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by harleybro

Hopefully someone can help. I had a 3500+ I sliced and cut into the board (Didn't realize it lapped the IHS and reapplied causing it to short). I killed my 4000+ sliced it and all went well. At first. Used nail polish to cover the chips around the core since I wanted to use DI eventually. Put on my waterblock and was careful. Booted for a sec. and died. I found one of the chips arced against the H2O block. Saw the burn on both. Now I am really considering doing it on my FX but what should I use to keep it from shorting. (I hate grease)

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Make sure you hold the blade perfectly parallel with the chip.
And do not go in any more than a half centimeter,
Start at the corner and then slide the whole blade under the side no more than a half centimeter, you can feel when you hit one of the little chips that are on top of the organic material.
Just be more careful this time if you do decide to do it.

What are the exact dimensions of the San Diego core ? (in milimeters please)

Just like to know because I'll be making a waterblock for that chip soon :cool:

64 mm2 I believe.

Well I've got the cutting part right but what I am confused about is why my chip may have shorted against the waterblock. :confused:

just put a strip of white tiny white foam you get with some hardware on all sides of the cpu, that'll help stop your waterblock/hs from rocking and shorting out
btw.. nice shim electroid!

64mm is too big thats bigger then a stock cpu fan!! it looks like 15mmx12mm or something from peeking over at my shim i poped off and looking at the footprint
________
VAPORITE REVIEW

Quote:

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Originally Posted by brandinb

64mm is too big thats bigger then a stock cpu fan!! it looks like 15mmx12mm or something from peeking over at my shim i poped off and looking at the footprint

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64mm is the diameter.
64mm2 is 8mm*8mm. Looks bigger to me though.

Looks like 9mm*12mm or something :stick:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by alexio

64mm is the diameter.
64mm2 is 8mm*8mm. Looks bigger to me though.

Looks like 9mm*12mm or something :stick:

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64mm2 is from AMD's website...

Anybody know anyone else who took off the IHS from their Sempron?
I seriously am considering saying I am the only one....

I can attest that removing the IHS on the Venice core will increase your O/C ability and reduce temps, especially under load. I've been stuck forever at 2.565ghz on my AMD63 3000 Venice. I just couldn't give it enough juice and keep the temps. where I was comfortable. Removed the IHS and boom! Was able to use 1.52v and get my Venice to 2.610 Prime and MemTest Stable. Now, this isn't for the faint of heart. I've got a ThermalRight XP90 with a 90mm silent cat on top. I used lighter fluid to "soften" the glue that holds the IHS on the Venice core. Then I proceeded to gently use a razorblade to cut through the adhesive. Up to that point everything was looking great. But then I found that due to the HS bracket on a MSI K8N Neo 2 motherboard that my XP90 wouldn't clear the CPU hinge brackets on the motherboard. So off to the bench grinder I go! Well, 2 hours later I had removed enough material for the HSF to clear the CPU socket on the MSI m/b. Used some AS5 (just a dab) and installed my "modified" heat sink and fan. Max temp. under load running F@H and Prime95 Torture Test is 48C. Used to be 56C at lower voltages and CPU speed. This has got to be one of the best mods I've ever attempted!

Would it be worth it if I took off the IHS, put AS5 on it and put the IHSback on?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kite7

Would it be worth it if I took off the IHS, put AS5 on it and put the IHSback on?

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It might help "a little" but not nearly as good as no IHS..

Personally, I wouldnt void my warranty just to put AS5 on the core..

I agree 100% with THUNDA. Once that IHS is off, leave it off. I see you've got a Venice 3000, so we're not talking about a $800 processor. If you do remove it, I can almost guarantee that the AMD64 overclocking gate will disappear! I was very impressed with the weight, thermal paste and thickness of the IHS when I removed it, but there is no question that direct contact between your core and your selected HSF works better than the interference caused by the AMD IHS. Honestly (and I said it in my original post) this was the best two hours I've ever spent modifying hardware. Even considering the problem I ran into with my XP90 heatsink.

At last, I took it off. :D
I won't be able to try it till august, but doesn't matter, I hope it'll help to get better temps.

Any tips to take into account? :)

http://img226.imageshack.us/img226/9016/img53279eo.jpg

http://img93.imageshack.us/img93/8150/img53285fw.jpg

http://img93.imageshack.us/img93/9225/img53373no.jpg

http://img93.imageshack.us/img93/371/img53422ug.jpg

http://img112.imageshack.us/img112/6817/img53436mj.jpg

http://www.lordsai.de/ihs.jpg

I'm want tho remove my IHS to from my 3000+ that does 2800-2900 on air.
Isn't this tricky with a XP120 cooler??
I want to see more pics please.

Better use the paths on the corners?
Or mod the bracket???

I am so tempted to try it with my x2 but I don't dare. They are just too much bread. Having said that I will try with my Venny 3000+ for the competition. I was thinking I'd remove the IHS and then mill down the outside edge and remove the center until it was flush with the core. So imagine the IHS with the core poking out a hole and everything nice and level. Might help the crush factor.

i've been working on this for about 2 hours now and the frustration is kicking in. i can't find anything thin enough to fit under the IHS to crape away the black sealant. i've tried a box cutter blade and the smallest precision screw driver I have, and both are too thick. any suggestions?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by douirc

i've been working on this for about 2 hours now and the frustration is kicking in. i can't find anything thin enough to fit under the IHS to crape away the black sealant. i've tried a box cutter blade and the smallest precision screw driver I have, and both are too thick. any suggestions?

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I had that same f*cking problem, I almost went crazy...
Everything was thicker than the tiny space between the IHS and the chip...
Until I got this... It's even thinner that the space, perfect!

http://img226.imageshack.us/img226/9016/img53279eo.jpg

Get an old fashioned razor blade for shaving from thr drug store, they are so thin they flex like nuts, cut it down the center in half. Now cut a groove into a toothbrush handle and epoxy it inside so that only about 3/4 of a cm is exposed. it will become rigid and is ultra thin and obviously, razor sharp.

I think there's no need to do that. If you're careful and hold it by the middle, it's completely safe. You don't need to quick, and it can even become fun... :D

Well I'm glad my granpa still has this oldschool razorblades

http://www.seilnacht.com/Lexikon/rasier.JPG

awesome! that's exactly what i was looking for...a pic! will my rite aid next door carry these?

Rite Aid = more than likely, I only posted because I have used this method before, I found exacto knives would break, where these things are really flexible and you can glue them so that they don't stick out very far and you don't risk damaging the little brown things that surround the CPU.

Thanks for the piccy Sai

wow! thanks for the awesome suggestion. i picked up a pack of 10 from CVS on my way home from class for $3.99...best money ever spent! took about 12 mins flat to run the razor around the edges and "pop the top". piece of cake. word to the wise...although creating a means of holding the razor is overkill, i would highly suggest breaking off one of the sharp edges on the double-edged razor. i've definately been wounded (still bleeding). take a look at the pic. btw...i was shocked to see how light the thing is with the top off! 85% of the processor weight is that top alone!

now on to my second question...putting the HSF on! I have a jumbo TT Big Typhoon and i DON'T want to crush the core! what's the best approach for mounting this thing without all the risk of a dead proc?

I wonder that is anyone here can mount the XP-120 with the non-IHS Core ??

Glad it worked out douirc , sorry about the damage, the reason for the custom holder is that with a single slip you can lose a good chunk of a finger (I'm serious about this).

Anyhow, I have done this a few times and I've used shims every time. I made some out of very thick cardboard that worked well, the problem is it takes a bit of trial and error to get the correct thickness for good contact, I always start too thick. Someone else suggested using the pads from an XP series proc and gluing them on. Never tried that myself. I also have shims from water cooling kits that I have used and there's even more information on all this in this very thread. I think the same methods work regardless of the type of cooler, I have mounted a 7700 Zalman copper on a Winnie, so there you go :)

Oh yeah thanks for the piccys of the final top off result :toast:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by xs64

I wonder that is anyone here can mount the XP-120 with the non-IHS Core ??

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Yeah, I've been using my XP-120 with no IHS on my 3200+ Winnie for a while now. I took some of the little black pads off of another CPU I had and used a tiny amount of super glue to attach them to the naked Winnie. I didn't make any modifications to the retaining bracket either.

EDIT - Guess it's my first post, but I've been reading the forums for a while now.

Uhm.....ugly n grey, is that a......is that a penis in your avatar, man? :nono:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wevsspot

I agree 100% with THUNDA. Once that IHS is off, leave it off. I see you've got a Venice 3000, so we're not talking about a $800 processor. If you do remove it, I can almost guarantee that the AMD64 overclocking gate will disappear! I was very impressed with the weight, thermal paste and thickness of the IHS when I removed it, but there is no question that direct contact between your core and your selected HSF works better than the interference caused by the AMD IHS. Honestly (and I said it in my original post) this was the best two hours I've ever spent modifying hardware. Even considering the problem I ran into with my XP90 heatsink.

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what problems ????

Is it safe to remove IHS and put XP90 on it ?

Or should i leave 7000B-alcu ?

modding a chip is not safe it's xtreme and it is a litle risky but not if your're careful, read the thread.

LOL Urban :toast:

I created a little shim using the foam from the packaging the TT-BT came in. the intention was for the foam to compress as the HSF was torqued down to relieve some of the stress and weight off the core. one thing i learned in the aftermath, first put the HSF down on the bare core and measure where it sits, then put the shim on and crank it down until it reaches the point where you marked. after i put the shim on i couldn't see the core, and didn't know how far to torque down the HSF.

Anyway, temps are down between 7-9C on full load and i'm prime stable at 2900 1.648V for 4 hours now. I'll keep tweaking and update later...

That seems to be a great idea. I'll try it.
But can you explain better what you did? Cuz I didn't really get it... :P

Thanks!

Nice work mate, good results. Be sure to use nail polish remove or alcohol when doing this guys, it will make your job alot easier as it eats through the glue and the blade will slide right under it.

I like the shim idea, i have foam now so i just lay that around the core, its always a very good idea to do a test mount and make sure you get a imprint of the CPU core on the cooler to ensure contact. :toast:

orig3n, are you talking about isopropyl alcohol, or acetone?

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Originally Posted by orig3n

Nice work mate, good results. Be sure to use nail polish remove or alcohol when doing this guys, it will make your job alot easier as it eats through the glue and the blade will slide right under it.

I like the shim idea, i have foam now so i just lay that around the core, its always a very good idea to do a test mount and make sure you get a imprint of the CPU core on the cooler to ensure contact. :toast:

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very good point! I should have mentioned that too. after i layed the foam shim down, i put a small dab of AS5 on the proc, then laid the HS down on the shim and pressed down with my fingers. after releasing, there was AS5 on the bottom of the HS, ensuring the two plates were making contact.

PoL - the basic principal is to relieve the HS weight off the core. you could put your HS directly onto the core, but you risk crushing it. all i simply did was take the foam that came in the packaging with my HSF, cut it into 4 strips and lay the strips around the core. if i rest the HS on top of the foam shim, the HS and core don't make contact. this is a good thing, because when you start to tighten down the HS, the foam will support the weight and act as a buffer. all you need to do then is tighten just enough so the HS and core make contact. you'll know when they make contact if you take measurements off the bolt (or some point of reference) with the HS resting directly on the core. A perfect example of this is AMD's Barton chips. they create a shim using rubber pads on the four corners of the PCB. I'm simply trying to recreate this with stuff lying around the house.

i hope that helps. i don't think i can be any more descriptive. trial by error is always a good method of learning too, so give it a shot!

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Originally Posted by p0tempkin

orig3n, are you talking about isopropyl alcohol, or acetone?

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I think he means both. :)