1.665v is pretty good. When I tested how far the kit would go with that voltage it reached 2220MHz 8-10-8. Might of had more in it but I hit IMC limitations after that point.
1.665v is pretty good. When I tested how far the kit would go with that voltage it reached 2220MHz 8-10-8. Might of had more in it but I hit IMC limitations after that point.
how can u set 2220 in bios? i thought u could only set multiples of 266 (eg: 1333, 1600, 1866, 2133)
BCLK you just pump 100+ MHz to core.
oooh. it works like that ha? i thought the clocks were decoupled. hmm...i guess i don't want to experiment for how much performance gain again? not even noticeable to benchmarks. :D
I don't play benchmarks, I play voltages and MAXIMUM MHz :D
On a side note I've been invited by Asrock to London :yepp: It'll be very interesting and great to shake hands with one or two of the contacts I've been speaking with :up:
great.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ket
can you make them do a better fan control thingy in BIOS? a graph like thing, instead of setting a temperature value and making the FAN run at full speed if they temp is exceeded?
something like this? pretty easy to implement these in uefi i guess?
Attachment 117363
See post 297. In short, I have suggested (thats all I can do, what Asrock choose to do is up to them) the "Level" mode be replaced with a percentage based mode where the user can set a percentage between 25%-100%. That'll allow users to easily dial in the best cooling to noise ratio.Quote:
Originally Posted by Anusha
push them harder at it Ket. :D
before I return the board is there a way for me to obtain the temperature (er software tool) ? Yes it feels very hot to me but I truely have no clue how warm it actually is - I would hate to return it; get a new board and discover that this is normal. If i rest my fingers on the v8 I would say they are uncomfortably warm but not on fire. I suspect if I leave them there for a few minutes they might become very uncomfortably warm. So definitely well over 35. 50c woudl be around 132 which shoudl be warm but not horribly uncomfortable so I have to guess it is higher than 50c.
I do have a $10 digital thermometer (basically ti has a long wire for out side temp). It is not very accurate but if I place it on top of the v8 heatsink would that be accurate enough ? I mean if it reads 200f woudl taht be sufficient for me to know I should return the board ? What about 170 ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ket
Asrock are doing well. They are new to the enthusiast level and learning fast, just give them a chance it takes time for new ideas and suggestions to be discussed and the best possible implementation to be decided on if they decide to add / change things :)
You can monitor chipset temps in the UEFI under "H/W Monitor".Quote:
Originally Posted by anewbie
That only provides two values - MB and CPU; both are under 40C. I don't think it indicates the temp of the z68/v8 cooler... or am i mistaken ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ket
-
I do have a $10 digital thermometer (basically ti has a long wire for out side temp). It is not very accurate but if I place it on top of the v8 heatsink would that be accurate enough ? I mean if it reads 200f woudl taht be sufficient for me to know I should return the board ? What about 170 ?
The Southbridge heatsink gets real warm on all my Sandy Bridge mobos - be it Asrock, Asus or Gigabyte since the local ambient temps here are ~25-35C plus the Southbridge is located directly right under the hot new video cards. imo, probably no real cause for alarm unless it quickly burns your finger ie. >70C.Quote:
Originally Posted by anewbie
So if I can leave my finger on it for 30 seconds with no obvious burn then you think it is ok ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by MacClipper
AFAIK, mainboard temp is the chipset temp. Unless it was coincidence, both my temp gun and the UEFI reported very close to one another.Quote:
Originally Posted by anewbie
That's a good suggestion. However, it would be even better if the lower bound was 20%. I run my PWM fans at 21% using SpeedFan.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ket
Note that the CHA2 header can be controlled only from BIOS, but not SpeedFan, and it can be set to only LEVEL1/2/3/4, all of which are too fast for a quiet system unless you install a secondary controller such as an NMT-3. So getting a percentage control on that header would be helpful.
I'm pretty sure the motherboard sensor is not in the chipset. My MB temp reads 41c, and the V8 heat sink is HOT to the touch, which means the chip is way over 60c.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ket
One of my weekend tasks is to remount that heat sink and probably add some pin-fin RAMsinks as well.
40c with just a lump of metal over it is bound to feel hot ;) I'll take the chipsets temp again with my gun and compare with the UEFI reading, if they closely match again, I'd say its safe to assume "mainboard temp" applies to the chipset.
Ok then maybe what I think feel hot isn't all that hot as the hw sensor indicates below 40 which would be a measly 104. I think it is a lot warmer than that but certainly my fingers do not have burn marks. I'll run a few more tests when I get home (including trying the thermometer).
The reason I'm a bit concern is that unlike my game system which I use like an appliance this system will be on 24/7 so being significantly out of spec would be an issue after a year or two.
-
Oh well thanks for the assistance.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ket
No, 40c feels vaguely warm. After all, that's only 3c above blood temperature.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ket
When I say HOT, I mean HOT! As in uncomfortable after a couple of seconds. At least 55c.
I'm pretty sure the TIM on my V8 heat sink is compromised. I vaguely recall the heat sink shifting while I was wrestling the motherboard with its Megahalems attached into the case. (Years of using a Ninja taught me to mount the HSF outside the case. With Megahalems this isn't necessary any more. All things change eventually...)
I just took the temp of the PCH again and it read around 40c, UEFI reported 35c. Taking into account the +/- 2% error margin for my temp gun and possibly slight calibration errors in software, seems about right IMO.
UEFI reports around 36 for me; the thermometer i rested on top of the heatsink sez 38 under load and drops to 34 when I killed the load.
So maybe it just feels hot to me and my estimate was way off.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ket
It would seem that way. Only way you will be able to put your mind at ease for certain would be to point a temp gun at it though.
I've got a USB problem with my Asrock Z68 Extreme4.
All of a sudden, my webcam and TV card is not working - Any ideas?
I have uninstalled my USB drivers and reinstalled them to no avail. :(
I think I may have solved this USB problem... I think my USB 2.0 devices don't like the USB 3.0 ports on the Asrock Z68 Extreme4.
I would recommend sticking to USB2 ports for USB2 devices, some USB2 hardware just won't take kindly in a USB3 port. Its also advisable that you install the latest Etron 1.1 driver from the first post of this thread, it fixes MANY device compatibility issues.
I'm trying to overclock my PC to 4.5GHz.
Should 'Spread Spectrum' in the UEFI be enabled or disabled?
Disabled.
OK thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by xdan
I'm trying to overclock my new rig to 4.5GHz (45x multiplier).
It did 8 hours prime fine on 1.3v with a high of about 79 degrees (idles at around 34 degrees) but I discovered after about 4 hours of normal web browsing it BSOD.
The only other things I changed in the UEFI are...
Internal PLL Overvoltage = Enabled
CPU Load-Line Calibration" to [Level 1]
Memory is as recommened but I set memory voltage to 1.5v
What do you suggest guys?
Also, do we have to set a fixed CPU voltage? Could it not be set to auto?
yes this happens. you got stop error 124 right? that means you need more Vcore. i too can pass loops of prime at 1.3V, but i need at least 1.32V to make it not BSOD randomly. you don't have to stress test for more than an hour in the case of Sandybridge. just play games and do the normal things you would do and if it doesn't BSOD, you are good. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by phillai
Right, thanks for the advice, Anusha. I will try 1.32v
Also for future reference, if I want to OC to 4.6GHz, when increasing the Vcore, how much is acceptable when increasing? Should the jump in Vcore be in jumps of 0.01v, 0.02v and so on?
after seeing that i need 1.35V or more to get it stable, i gave up the idea of 4.6GHz :(Quote:
Originally Posted by phillai
2500k CPUs seem to hit 4.5GHz easy with low voltage, for 4.6GHz the voltage increase is rather high just for a extra 100MHz from my own experiences and what I've seen of others.
Ket any news on this problem ?
BSOD " A clock interrupt was not received on a secondary processor within the allocated time interval"
This happens when using the cpu graphics.
That is a overclocking related BSOD. If you aren't OCing and getting that, some of your hardware is faulty.
Loving this board, but I am getting Bad_Pool_Header BSODs from USB3 ports when I try to plug in my Asus Transformer - this occurs whether plugged in to the front ports in the breakout box and the 2 rear USB3 ports :(
Transformer works fine in (any) USB 2 ports.....and I tried a Kingston USB drive in a front USB3 port and had no problems (USB2 device)
Now, having just read through the entirety of this thread, I am wondering whether I have the latest Etron drivers installed...pretty sure I was up to date, per the ASRock support site, but....
Any thoughts ?
EDIT : And yes, this is my first ever post here, despite being a member since 2007 (happy days with an Asus P5WDH :D)
If you are using the Etron driver either supplied on the CD or Asrocks site, they are not the latest. You want the v1.1 driver which you can grab from the first post ;) Click Me!
Great, thanks Ket :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Ket
Will download when I get home.....really hoping this fixes the issue - rumour has it that Transformer really benefits on USB3, and will likely charge whilst plugged in as well (USB2 does not supply enough power to charge, unless TF is off, and even then is pretty slow).
Back on the board itself, I have found it to be very stable and with a great featureset; last x boards have been ASUS, so this was a change of pace for me - have to say that I think it was a good decision :)
Hopefully the 1.1 Etron driver will sort things out, if not let me know and I will tell my contacts, who will then likely forward the info to Etron themselves.
Does this have to be a hardware issue? I wonder if it is a software integration issue (software assume the timer will be updated at a set frequency) ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ket
For people getting a BSOD at idle or low workload, It may be helpful to see the following thread.
The first post contains what was found, and the rest of the thread makes for interesting reading.
http://www.ocztechnologyforum.com/fo...nd-its-effects
I'm convinced that IME is the cause of most problems on P67/Z68/H67.
AFAIK, it will only be caused by a unstable OC or faulty hardware. To date, I have not seen this BSOD under any other circumstances.Quote:
Originally Posted by anewbie
This is not just affectng me but others as well who wish to use the cpu graphics.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ket
I've used the IGPU for extended periods, including gaming. I haven't experienced any such issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by chippy
My personal experience is that boosting BCLK is bad news. I could pass all stress tests, even at 103 MHz, but would get BSOD in everyday applications, even at 101. When I put it back to 100.0 all that went away. Still running the CPU at 44x though.
I also saw other symptoms than BSOD, such as fan sensors screwing up. Moral: maybe you can overclock the CPU/Z68/mem, but maybe not the rest of the board...
Downloaded > Installed and problem has gone :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Ket
Many thanks !
Have to ask why ASRock do not have this driver on their download pages, mind......and why are there no dates against the downloadables ?
Do you know what vcore you was running at the time ? heres a link to other that have the same problem as me.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ket
http://forums.tweaktown.com/asrock/4...-received.html
BCLK clocking is heavily dependent on the CPU itself. Personally, I've pushed about 104.5MHz with memory @ around 2200 and the CPU around 4.5GHz all totally stable but for 24/7 use I set the BCLK to 100.1MHz (so nothing ever dips below spec due to clock variation) and 4.5GHz with memory @ 2133, again all completely stable.Quote:
Originally Posted by cmthomson
Due to how frequently driver updates are issued, it makes it almost impossible to update all the drivers for every mainboard.Quote:
Originally Posted by kevpuk
I was testing with stock settings, vcore about 1.18v. For anybody having this BSOD with stock settings, heres what I suggest to try;Quote:
Originally Posted by chippy
- Download the latest intel PCH (chipset) drivers from intels site.
- Update UEFI (if you haven't already)
- Go into UEFI and go to OC Tweaker, scroll down the page until you see "CPU Load Line Calibration" and change "Level 5" to "Level 2", save and exit
Thanks Ket much the same has asrock suggested but it didnt help. Interesting thing is it seems to be a problem with gigabyte as well.
Well, its certainly a strange problem. Both the P67 and Z68 I have behave themselves. The third point I suggested is deffinately worth a shot though. Changing the LLC level will give just a touch more vcore to the CPU. One thing I did notice when testing out the P67 and Z68 is that the P67 defaults to 1.18v vcore, while the Z68 defaults to 1.16v which makes me think Asrock may of reduced the potency of their LLC a tad with the Z68 as a lot of people got unexplainable BSODs with the P67 if setting LLC to "Level 1". Best guess is that LLC setting pushed voltages too far out of spec and hence the BSODs. Now it seems like it could be the opposite problem, if LLC potency was reduced a tad because of the BSODs when setting "Level 1" on the P67 board, now the BSODs on the Z68 may be because the "Level 5" LLC setting isn't quite giving enough juice for people using the IGPU.
The simple answer could also always be theres a bug in intels chipset / IGPU driver, but I thought I would include the long glamorus techie theory as well :p:
Great... somehow I managed to delete all my typing from just a second ago... great start on my posting here...
Well... what I was saying is...
Love the board! my chip is quite good overclocker, so managed to get 5.24GHz in a suicide high Vcore run to get the best SuperPi result :)
http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/4530/52407.jpg
I seem to have a strange issue, or two really.
First, the PC doesnt wake up from sleep on the first try. I had a stability run of BIONIC and forgot to modify the power profile and the PC went to sleep. I powered it back on and it did something and the board had a FF, if I remember correctly, on the display.
I powered it down and on again and I got a Resuming Windows screen and it booted from sleep! strange... I had that before but have no idea why...
2nd thing is the idle CPU clock... Im trying to find a stable, lowest Vcore set up for 4.8GHz day to day usage, and it doesnt seem to be clocking down on IDLE.
Don't remember the settings now, but I am sure that the speed step tech is ON.
Any help will be much appreciated :)
Oh... that is all on the BIOS 1.5
The first issue sounds like a unstable OC, especially if you were at 5.2GHz when it happened. Second issue, unless you inadvertently disabled any of the power saving stuff the CPU would downclock, also, if you still had anything like BOINC running, the CPU would stay full speed ;)
I only now run it @4.8 so all the issues were then.
I'll report the settings later today.
Bionic was definitely closed and off ;) but I modified some stuff as per your screenshots... (posted earlier)...
If you changed some stuff based on my screenshots, its very possible you turned throttling of the CPU off so it would run full speed all the time. Because I run BOINC theres just no need for me to have power saving options enabled :p:
So what power saving options can be enabled and not disturb the o/c potential?
OC potential won't be disturbed by turning off power saving features. Don't turn off Intel Speedstep Technology in OC Tweaker though. The CPU will run your OC speed but once any stress is put on the CPU it will revert to stock speeds.
Updated link on first page with new driver package
Some new Asrock 1155 socket board is coming soon
Attachment 117658
Attachment 117659
Source
LOL thats some great stuff coming from Asrock
was thinking about getting a ASUS R.O.G Maximus IV GENE-Z but now im gonna wait out this Asrock release and see how the Extr7 and Extr4 are doing and what prices they will have.
power phases are the same count on both boards so im not sure if getting the Extr7 will make that big a difference over the 4 version
official spec sheet from asrock is here:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostleader
http://www.asrock.com/download/e-cat...me4%20Gen3.pdf
doing a quick diff vs. the Z68 Extreme4 spec sheet, this is what i see to be changed, besides the obvious addition of PCIe 3.0:
* V8+4 power phase design vs. the non-Gen3 V8
* "premium gold" caps vs. the non-Gen3 "duracaps"
* PCIE5 operates at full x16, as compred to the current x4 operation
* claimed support for DirectX 11 when using Ivy Bridge CPU, although i presume this is not a motherboard limitation and will apply to the non-Gen3 as well
* somewhat bizarrely, the non-Gen3 supports "THX TruStudio PRO" whereas the new Gen3 board only supports "THX TruStudio", this despite having the same exact Realtek chip - although i'm quite sure there won't be a single person on the planet that cares about this difference
that looks to be it. all the on-board chips (marvell, etron, realtek, broadcom) are unchanged. i can't say i'm regretting picking up the non-Gen3 with such an incremental upgrade on the horizon.
Love the heatsinks and color combo on the Extreme7! fantastic stuff ASRock!
Ket, what changed in the package?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ket
Newer drivers :p:
ED - If you can believe it, despite UEFI 1.5 for the Z68 only coming out a few weeks ago Asrock already have another UEFI! Version 1.6 Clicky!
This is just driving me insane!!!
Ive been stability testing for a past few hours 4.8GHz @1.370V. All went ok, moved to 1.365V, tested... all ok. So moved to 1.36V and got the BSOD. Ok. went back to 1.365V to test more and now I cant get it to boot! Stupid thing!
Ive been thinking about the Load Line Calibration a bit and can some correct me if Im wrong please.. According to the graph, depending on the different level we get less or more Vcore droop when CPU gets more load. Less droop = better stability => Level 1 should be the best. The main reason for the Vdrop is for the CPU not to exceed the TDP limit when loaded.
I still noticed though that when downclocked the Vcore seems a bit too high and wondered if it was possible to only have higher Vcore for multipliers higher than 37...?
Has anyone mastered the offset voltage on this board?
Great news about the bios. Any release notes for it?
Do a full CMOS reset and redo your OC, that should fix your issue. I've found LLC level 2 to work best so you might want to try that.
i wonder what the updated raid rom means. more performance? XD
Full CMOS reset? you mean by the back button, 15 sec, no PS etc.?
Tried that already and still no luck... Will keep trying though.
What sort of voltages people run @4.8GHz anyway... I though my 1.37V was pretty low anyway...
By full CMOS reset I mean;
Set CMOS jumper to "clear"
Remove CMOS battery
Remove PSU cord
Press power button 2-3 times (discharges capacitors)
Wait 1 min
Astonishing how people don't even know what a full CMOS reset is anymore, it makes me sad :(
"Jumper method" means more to me than full CMOS reset :P
This is a post I'll be putting in the P67 thread as well. Basically, everybody is hellbent on keeping their SB chip as cool as possible for some reason so I conducted some of my own tests and done a lot of research. Here is what you can expect to get cooling-wise depending on how much cash you throw at cooling your CPU and whats really going on with these coolers.
CoolIT ECO ALC - £45 Amazon.co.uk
Antec Kuhler H2O 620 - £46 kikatek.co.uk
Corsair H50 - £52 box.co.uk
Corsair H60 - £49.55 ILGS.co.uk (thats right, a better model is cheaper than the H50... go figure)
Corsair H70 - £73.39 component warehouse.co.uk
Corsair CWCH80 - £70.18 ILGS.co.uk (yep.. again a better model is cheaper. Methinks this pricing strategy is deliberate)
Antec Kuhler H2O 920 - £80.54 ILGS.co.uk
So, cooling-wise whats really going on here? Firstly I'm going to stress the difference in cooling between the "worst" and "best" liquid CPU coolers is 8-10c. This seems like a lot at first glance.. but is it? Well, here is how that list breaks down;
ECO ALC > Antec H2O 620 > Corsair H50 - There is nothing seperating ANY of these coolers. The minors differences (3c at best) can easily be chalked up to the type of TIM and fan the manufacturer has chosen to use. Something easily overcome with some proper TIM like MX4 alone nevermind a better fan as well.
H60 > H70 - You guessed it, theres nothing seperating these coolers either. Again (surprise, surprise) about 3c at best. Which also (again) can be put down to TIM and the fan used.
Corsair H80 (CWCH80) > Antec H2O 920 - A double phat radiator and these suckers still can't get a significant gain over any of the earlier coolers. These coolers make up the 8-10c difference.
By now you are all probably wondering what I'm getting at, its this; Anybody who owns one of these coolers before plumping out perhaps £80 on a new and "better" liquid CPU cooler instead opt to buy 1 or 2 (whichever is your preference) new fans (the coolermaster sickleflow fans are excellent, 70CFM @ low dba) and some high performance TIM like MX4. Remount your existing cooler with these upgrades and then look up some reviews and compare your new temps to the liquid cooler you had in mind as a replacement. I'm betting your existing cooler is now performing within a few degrees of that cooler you were about to splash some cash on ;)
Some of you might think "Oh but wait! I can do the same thing to the more expensive cooler too." This is correct, but A: The more expensive cooler is likely going to already be using fan(s) equally as good as the new fan(s) you have just got meaning you won't really see any (if any) gains. Lastly, B: You would hope the more expensive cooler is also using better TIM which again means you probably wouldn't see much gain by replacing the TIM on the more expensive cooler.
Give this a go readers, I think you'll be surprised.
The SATA option ROM is now version 10.6.0.1091, which I hope fixes the problems that SATAIII SSD users were getting.Quote:
Originally Posted by Anusha
Here is the change log from Intel.
Click
new member here, i've been following this thread religiously and it's been very helpful. however, there is one issue i still can't solve - getting the onboard analog audio to work.
the Realtek drivers install fine and device manager indicates it to be working properly but no sound come out of the speakers, even if the Realtek sound manager indicates the audio is playing. i noticed the rear analog out can never be enabled in the realtek manager, only the front analog out.
i tried disabling the IGD in the Bios and that didn't work as it has for others who had a similar problem.
i have tried using the drivers from the Asrock site as well as the one from Realtek with no success.
Does the ATI HDMI Audio in Device manager have anything to do with it?
Attachment 117737
Not having any problems here
Attachment 117738
Odd. In the BIOS I have Onboard Audio Enabled and Front Panel to Auto. If Front Panel is set to Disabled, both Analog section goes away entirely. What is your driver version?
But I should still able to get sound through the Front Panel Analog and nothing plays in the speaker. With my Crossfire configuration, I rather not add a discrete soundcard to allow proper airflow around the Graphics cards.
Latest: 2.63
I haven't installed the audio driver for my video card. but it worked fine when i had it installed too.
Attachment 117739
Thanks. I tried it with the latest Realtek version and no success. I tried disabling the ATI HDMI Audio in Device Manager too. This is brutal.
you shouldn't have to do any of that. lemme check eufi settings and post back. hold on. :D
OK back. There are the settings.
Attachment 117740
Yep, that's how I have it set in the BIOS except for Onboard HD Audio = Enabled.
Can I ask how you have your South Bridge Configured for the IGD?
Not sure if this means anything, but I hear quite a bit of static through the Front analog out and the frequency fluctuates with motheboard activity. Maybe the Realtek is fubar on my board :(
you mean Northbridge page? i.e. the graphics settings?
Attachment 117741
well, first of all, you should mute all the inputs that you don't use. see if that does it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Puff Daddy
Yeah, sorry the Northbridge. I have Render standby and IGD Multi-Monitor both disabled, which I believe is how to disable the onboard video.Quote:
Originally Posted by Anusha
All inputs are muted.
Obvious, but I take it you have made sure your speakers aren't duff? :p: Also try setting your audio via the playback tab in windows sound properties.
ha! i yes speakers work fine. i'm definitely at my wits end - might just get an external USB SB X-Fi if I can't this figured this out.
Just making sure that this is already done, speakers chosen as the default device here and not something else?Quote:
Originally Posted by Puff Daddy
http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/6...aultdevice.png
If there is one thing I can say about Windows its that HDMI audio still doesn't work properly. Its better than it was in Vista but still not really fixed. Some stuff will vary a bit as I'm on the laptop ATM but I'll try to give a step by step pictorial to make sure theres not something you need to be setting thats been missed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Puff Daddy
Finally, make sure the device you want to get audio through is the default device.
Quote:
Originally Posted by piquadrat
Sorry for such a late but I missed your post. I didn't even notice that this issue bothers someone else.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nelly
No good news. Board returned. Picked Asus P8Z68-V Pro instead. With Asus different set of problems but it boots ok with an encrypted drive present.
These whole P67/Z68 boards are beta products. Expensive, second grade electronics. That's my opinion.
Yep the Playback is set to speakers. The Sound meter registers as if audio is playing but don't hear anything out of the speakers.Quote:
Originally Posted by MacClipper
You sure the speakers are connected to the right jacks? Doesn't seem like theres a problem with the CODEC as the drivers install ok and everything looks like it should. Maybe a wire with a break in it?
Yep, I've tried the rear and front analog line outs. The only thing I can think of is that the analog outs are malfunctioning on my board. In my original post, the rear analog out can never be selected...only the front analog if enabled in the BIOS. I originally had a discrete soundcard that worked fine but removed it when I went to Crossfire. I'd try the digital out but don't have a digital to analog converter handy to plug into my Klipsch ProMedia 2.1s.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ket
I appreciate everyone offering their suggestions. Maybe I should clear my CMOS?
I can't comment on FP audio, never used it, probably never will. My Logitech X540 speakers have a 3.5mm jack for headphones on a little control hub that sits on my desk, thats all I need :D I will say though even with Equalizer adjustments to get the very best sound out of a on-board Realtek audio CODEC, its still no substitute for a real audio card. I have a Xonar DX 7.1, tiny lil thing, sits in the top PCI-E slot. Perfect companion. /hugs Xonar/
Originally, I had a Creative X-Fi Xtreme in the PCI slot but it was a full height card. This severely blocked the airflow into the top 6870 and GPU temps were almost 10C higher. So it wasn't something I wanted long term.
I looked at getting a half-height discrete sound card like the Xonar DX to fit in that first PCI-E slot. But the Asus DirectCu's backplate heatsink sticks out further than most and this meant any card in the slot would also block the rising heat. So I thought I would try out the onboard audio as a last resort. I agree with you, I prefer discrete solutions.
At any rate, I've given up trying to figure out that Realtek and just got an external Creative X-Fi 5.1 USB. Plugged it in and instant sound...hellz yeah.
Asrock really needs to figure out why in my case the drivers did not enable the Rear Analog out or not output through the Front Analog either. Not entirely satisfied about this but there are bigger things in life to worry about.
I think in this case its probably just your board. I'm sure theres plenty of people who would of complained about the issue in this thread by now if it was a design problem ;)
Yeah possibly but there are a few threads out on the net with users having the same issue as mine, and a few reviews at NewEgg as well.
Probably a iffy batch, sadly, its something thats not completely unavoidable :( If it bugs you a lot best thing would be to buy another Z68 E4 to avoid any downtime, verify the audio chip is working and then return your current board for a refund.
Good point, I can live with it though. Everything else on the board is working great and this thread went a long way to helping me setup the new build. Overclocking is effortless and I'm pretty happy with how the install turned out.
As long as you are happy all is well :D Personally, it would bug me knowing something didn't work :p: Kinda how it bugs me manufacturers persist in using crappy thermal pads on VRMs and have awful surface finishes on stock heatsinks. Best way to prevent something from being messed around with by the user is to do a proper job in the first place, and just charge a bit more to cover higher quality manufacturing costs if necessary.
Hi Ket,
Any ideas if anything has been done for the eSATA bug? I have tried the 1.60 bios and the new Intel RST drivers but no joy still! :(
cheers
Check your PMs! I sent you a PM about a week ago asking if you could check a few things so R&D would have a better idea where to look for the problem, you haven't replied to that PM yet :p:
Sorry mate, I hadn't seen it! Done that now :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Ket
You have PM EZ :D