I'm 16 and I make $25-35 a week. No hex for me ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Otis11
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I'm 16 and I make $25-35 a week. No hex for me ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Otis11
I'm 40 and don't even make that! (student with working wife)
I am 15 and has like $100 a month, so rich :D:D:D
Preview pic; been working hard to try and get everything up by Supercomputer week. Moved most everything under water tonight, two linux host did not come back up so I need to look into that... tomorrow night.
Still to do before supercomputer week:
- Overclock!
- Build a dualie!
http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/p...ers/faaarm.jpg
<Connery>
Scheckzy!
</Sean Connery>
Holy Shiznit! Looking Great!!
Night shots please :p:
Very nice job trn ! What can I say that already hasn't been said...
BTW you going to put a filter inline somewhere to clean up that dirty water? Hate to see your water blocks degrade with all those high end CPU's !
You're telling me you have a dozen WCed hexs at stock? :shakes:
In that case, I can't wait to see what they do OCed :up:
Kudos trn. I bow low. And believe me it is not often.
:clap::clap::clap:
Not a bad idea at all, I didn't include a drainport anywhere in my system so its a tear down of the WC system if I want to flush and refill :eek: For now i'm just happy to be up and running, i'm going to monitor things for awhile and just make sure it doesn't get out of hand.Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnmark
err.. I mean, finish overclocking. I was at maybe 80% OC before, I didn't have enough good air coolers to overclock everything before, some rigs were on Intel stock coolers which aren't good for much of anything.Quote:
Originally Posted by [Ion]
Thanks but it is I who bow to you who kicks some serious scientific ass! :up::up:Quote:
Originally Posted by EtaCarinae
YATH (yeat another thread hijack):Quote:
Originally Posted by jcool
Tested the retail 970 on prime for a while, and found it needs 1,37V load Vcore to run fully stable at 4,5Ghz (180x25) :)
It's now crunching at that speed. However, power draw has gone up by 70W compared to my 4Ghz setting (1,2V Vcore).
woah TRN thats amazing
Hijack away! Thats a great result OC! Was that with your chiller?Quote:
Originally Posted by jcool
you may have answered this - but what's the temperature like in your garage compared to the rest of the house?
No, silent watercooling system @ 35C water temp (~75C CPU) :) My Chiller is connected to the SR-2 rig.Quote:
Originally Posted by trn
Excellent trn. :clap:
You achieved over 842'000 WCG points (over 120'000 Boinc credits) yesterday. Seems Poseidon is lashing at us mere mortals in full fury :D
120'000 BOINC points. That's impressive. You are doing some serious damage at pie's table :)
I'd be pretty damn happy to manage 100,000 WCG, never mind 100,000 BOINC!
Geez that's alot of points! Good job trn
After seeing the massive numbers trn's been putting up all week, I decided to read through this thread this morning. Half way though, I was reminded of that old Dylan song:
Come all without, come all within
You'll not see nothing like the mighty trn
Now I can't get that friggn tune out of my head. It's been playing over and over and over all day. :wierd:
Thanks, trn. Thanks a lot.
:p:
trn I suppose that your rig is now up and running.:up:
I wonder when you get at 800'000 WCG points what kind of total power your system does pull.
I'm never quite finished it seems :cool: I still have one more rig to build and then 2 total to put in the water cooling system and overclock. The 800,000 was not really an average day for me; I unloaded my finished WU que early to report on Monday and give the team one last push. I've set my crunchers to report only at times when I'm not home or asleep, I think I might scale back the reporting times even more drastically too, maybe only 4 or 5 hours in the middle of the night for reporting. When I am up and running with everything, I expect to be in the 670,000-700,000ish ppd range depending on how well my last two stubborn CPU's OC.Quote:
Originally Posted by EtaCarinae
I did a rough estimate before that with everything going I think I use 3.7KwH, my estimates are always a little low so figure 3.7KwH - 4.0KwH might be a bit more realistic.
I stand at 4 kW with 18 machines. Of these 18 machines 4 run the 950 and 14run the 980X. Of the 18 machines three are not OC and run stock. Of these machines at stock speed two are 950 and one is 980X.
Thats excellent efficiency, and especially since your still running some 45nm's! Good to know both of our power companies won't go out of business anytime soon :rofl:
I'm at 2.3kwh with 11 machines....
I wish 1366 32nm chips were a bit cheaper.....
I applaud all of you for your dedication to the cause.:up:
god dont we allQuote:
Originally Posted by Biker
i wish they were ALOT cheaperQuote:
Originally Posted by Biker
trn yesterday you nearly caught me. You were at only 22'000 point from me.
693'000 for you and I was at 715'000.
We are having a hot fight. Need to launch my backup forces in the battle.:D
Bring it on! :) I still have a litte more to get up and running :). I don't think I'll average more than 700,000 per day though. I was taking a shot at your WU per day record also. I think I'm getting about 2500 per day so still short there.Quote:
Originally Posted by EtaCarinae
I'm hoping for good things in Q2 or Q3 of 2011, octocores :)
foaming at the mouthQuote:
Originally Posted by trn
and how is that dualie coming?
Sorry if this is old news, but I just saw this thread and reading from the beginning. Try Slackware or Arch... :)Quote:
Originally Posted by trn
Awesome project!
or even better ... decacores :DQuote:
Originally Posted by trn
Oh yes! A dualie with two decacores + HT = 40 threads in one shot.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaco
And everything running at min 4 Ghz.
This would make a 200'000 ppd machine.
And in terms of Mips/watt that would be .............
Oh! sorry, here I am dreaming again. :rolleyes:
I don't think they'll bother with decacore machines. More likely to go to 12 then 10. ;)
Badly, the asus mobo wouldn't run stable with A0 westmeres so I bought two more gigabyte boards, another ud3r rev 2.0 and a ud5 rev 2.0. I only had time to set one up and running at stock.Quote:
Originally Posted by disturbed13
Thanks! I love Archlinux and am runnin it on 4 crunchers. I have ubuntu server on another 3 but that works ok so no real motivation to reformat them especially because I don't know how to carry over boinc data in linux like windows.Quote:
Originally Posted by karbonkid
Probably not for a desktop socket until 22nm in... Early 2013? 1366 westmere dies are full with 6 cores, I read socket 2011 dies are roughly the same size but the individual SB cores are a little smaller and laid out differently so they can jam in 8 cores. I'm sure there will be a server EX socket version but that will be out of reach $$$ for us non-billionaires. We can dream though... :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaco
And really the most important thing we as consumers need is for AMD to bulldoze Intel with some serious competition so Intel acctually has a reason to bring out better products at much lower price points. Intel could have dropped 45nm all together at this point and be selling locked down hexas for $300. The 32nm proscess is done and I'm sure their investment in the process is already well paid off by all the $1000 dollar chips already sold. But why drop your price pointa without competition, they really could care less about the enthusiast community when every quarter sets another record profit in a stagnet economy. :(
just wanted to say congrats on reaching your goal trn! looks like you are pulling 100kppd+ daily and well before your 1/23/2011 target date :up:
yeah you should probably edit your target to 150,000 ppd
Thanks guys but these last two weeks have Been like cheating. Ive been away from home so all my crunchers are running without any work or gaming interruptions. Also I've been running HCC exclusive which is another false boost, I have a 980x at only 4.0GHz that is averaging over 8,000 ppd with Linux. I prefer to run a mix of all projects, so without these boost i really haven't reached my goal of a solid 100,000PPD consistently. Thankfully I still have one more hexacore to build and one stock machine to OC which ought to put me very very close to my goal; a loop of SB's in janurary might give me a solid increase :) still awaiting some crunching results on those :D
(and that 1TFlop barrier is looking like it needs to be broken also :D)
999 Gflops
lol so close, i say you will end up with 1.1 Tflops
Quote:
Originally Posted by trn
and this is how i know you're addicted :yepp:
Aurgh.... Had to bring down the farm today. Flow issues causing the CPU's to overheat.
Got home from being away for two weeks, and I noticed this morning that around half the farm was down. Initially blamed it on a brownout; some of the crunchers run on UPS's. Restarted them and just assumed everything was OK, then remote logged into one of the 3.7GHz L5640's which should have probably been in the 50C load temps... temps were reaching the 80's :(
Return lines to the RAD's are cold as can be but some parts of the tubing are really soft and warm to the touch. I'm guessing that whatever is turning my water brown finally jammed up the CPU blocks and reduced flow.
Time for a complete tear down, flush and look at my components to see if I can diagnose why the water keeps getting browner and browner with time. Unfortunately not what I was in the mood for, jet-lagged and sick and I was feeling like having a relaxing weekend. I hope I didn't burn up and CPU's :mad:
I'm the contaminate issue has to be with something in my loop since it keeps getting worse and worse with time. I have a large mixture of materials, PVC, nickel plated steel, a small bit of galvanized steel, 2 part epoxy, vinyl tubing, brass, copper, whatever the hell is in my water circulator pump, PVC cement, and distilled water with PT Nuke. I'm guessing that something like the 2 part epoxy or PVC cement is being disolved and deposited all over the inside of the loop. Anyways... what a serious PITA. Does anyone know if PT Nuke has any sort of corrosive properties to plastics or anything like that?
Sorry to hear that trn , that looks like a major downtime.
I don't PT nuke will cause this ...
I liked the principle of this so much I just ordered a rad. About 32 inches square and 1.6 inches thick it is already refurbished (new core) so over the next few weeks I can have some fun too.
I won't ever have the number of rigs on it that you have but I hope this will simplify the cooling arrangements that I have just now.
Now then on the subject of blocked up system how about you break this into two ...the computer loop and the rad loop and in between put a plate heat exchanger. It is what I have planned so that I can disregard dissimilar metals and can mess with the rad side at my leisure without having to worry about contamination. A little less efficient and needs another pump but worth it in my book.
I got mine from http://www.dudadiesel.com/heat_exchangers.php
Thanks for the tips, I think i'm going to take my time fixing this so I can get it right this time and be setup for the long-haul. I plan to disassemble the WC system this week and have a good look at the blocks, pumps, and all the materials and see what I can do to solve the problem.
I'd hazard a guess there was some oil inside that main pump but the amount of dissimilar metals in the system would concern me over the long term.
That brown look does remind me of the blown head gasket type oil/rust/coolant mix you can get. check out how much you would have to pay to have those rads professionally cleaned or re-cored...I have a feeling in my water that the issue lies there.
When I removed some Vinyl tubing from the loop, the brown gunk dries up to a very very light colored brown; almost white when dry. The thing that I don't get is that the issue seemed to keep getting worse and worse instead of leveling off. And that would be a lot of oil! the brown coating is on everything in my loop; and i'm guessing it finally got bad enough to gunk up the cpu blocks and restrict flow. I'm hoping when I tear down I can find the culprit. I really really wished I had built in an easy method of flushing and draining and filling the system now. This is going to take a complete tear down; and if the blocks are jammed up its going to take a bit of boiling in vinegar water to clean them out or something like that.
I learned that regular epoxy doesn't stand up to water very well the hard way. I have and MD-20 which has 3/4" male threads on it. Since I use 7/16" tubing I needed some way of getting the tubing on more than the first 1/4". What I did was take some 1/2" brass barbs and epoxy them to the poly barbs. It worked pretty well and I was proud of myself for figuring out a more elegant (and compact) solution than poly 3/4"-1/2" reducers.
Fast forward a few months and there is a puddle under the computer and the horrible sound of bubbles moving through everything. Fortunately the pump was on the floor of the case so no magic smoke got out, but it was annoying nonetheless.
My point: spend the extra dough and get epoxy that works for aquariums and stuff.
I agree with D_A on the dissimilar metals thing.
I wouldn't rule out bacteria. PT Nuke won't kill everything. There's even bacteria that lives in diesel. Do you have any silver in the loop? Is the res open or closed now? Pics would help.
Depending on what blocks you're using, you may have to take it apart as the fins can be very fine and will have lots of deposits that'll need to be physically brushed out. Boiling and vinegar alone won't do it.
http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/1143/dsc00422qc.jpg
trn I am really sorry bout your misfortune. Your system was really a major contender and I was happy to be challenged daily. I feel a little alone now.
Your water cooled system was absolutely unique at least to me. It was very courageous to build such a large and complex watercooled system. There is no other way around, you have to go through a learning curve. But through trial and error you will be back stronger and more reliable.
Keep up high your spirit and motivation. We are all with you. And now go, go, go, go :up::up::up:
Well the good news is I found my problem.
http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/p...ect/RadCap.jpg
http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/p...ct/capless.jpg
This radiator cap off and caused the water to all leak from the system. One of my radiators didn't have a real radiator cap in it and I never realised it and its amazing it made it this long without blowing off. The cap pictured is just a cheesy little plastic insert that temporarily plugged one of the rads. The good news is that by going to autozone and buying a real radiator cap without I can fix the system.
The bad news is I was running without water, which was causing overheating and who knows if I did any damage to my CPU's. Also I still have the brown gunk issues as you can see on the inside of the radiator cap; i'm still sick and not sure if I have the energy to work on a repair this weekend. And also I still can't explain or fix the brown gunk :shrug:
There are proprietary flushing solutions you can buy from an auto parts dealer but I would still try to find out if you can get this done professionally for not too many $$$'s
And a bit more good news... I started feeling better so I made my way over to Autozone, picked up a real radiator cap, slapped it on the rad, refilled the system and fired everything up and the CPU's and pumps all still work so i'm thankful that no damage was done. I'll figure out the brown gunk later :D
well that's mostly good news trn, which i'm glad to hear. especially that you are feeling better. That brown gunk is perplexing, and i'm with the other guys in that maybe a professional cleaning is in order if the gunk gets out of hand
Yeah yeah... i'm a lazy slob that doesn't like cleaning :) I also struggled to find a shop that would flush radiators that were not in cars! I had looked for this service before I ever started my build but had no luck.
For now my sludge problem doesn't seem to have any affect on temperatures (as long as I have water in my system :D.) My highest core temps right now are in the 50C's on my 970's at 4.2GHz which is more than good enough. The only way to really diagnose the problem is a complete system tear down which i'm also not in the mood for quite yet.
And after more inspection I have a suspect... I think I have a Rusty Taco! :rofl:
Rusty Taco Photos:
http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/p...RustyTaco1.jpg
http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/p...RustyTaco2.jpg
http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/p...RustyTaco3.jpg
Why a "Hot Water Circulator Pump" would rust this bad when circulating water is beyond me... I had assumed the green paint was a thick inpenetrable epoxy paint that would keep the cast iron parts from rusting up this bad. This just looks like awful design and engineering from Taco pumps. I have a feeling that If I tore down the pump the inside would be very rusty. I don't know for sure, I've certainly assumed many things incorrectly through this build log...
Heres what the tubing looks like today.... thick thick apple cider, yum :) The light color tube is dry, I pulled that tube from the system a month or so ago.
http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/p...ect/colors.jpg
And heres a shot to try and capture what the residue looks like when dry, its faily bright orange, kinda rusty looking :rolleyes:
http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/p.../drytubing.jpg
That looks like rust to me. If it is electrolytic corrosion then it will start pitting the ferrous metals in the system pretty quick. You could try grounding the copper water blocks to a common point with the cast iron Taco pump, but you probably should still run some good radiator cleaner through that and put some serious corrosion inhibitor in the mix.
Very similar to an E28 Bimmer my buddy was working on today. It had a bad water pump that was neglected and the coolant that was flushed out looked like yours. Plus all of the internals were coated with brown gunk that looks exactly like your pics.
If your pump is OK, you may have used coolant that's aggravating some of the metals in your loop. If you didn't use distilled water, mixed antifreeze, or didn't use antifreeze at all, it may have caused your corrosion. Antifreeze has rust inhibitors...
Still.. your poor copper blocks :( Sorry, man.
Looks like you found the culprit. Now the question remains, how much energy do you have in order to deal with it? Fix it now or let it go and see how long the loop performs well enough? These are the tough questions in life :rofl:
Thanks for the confirmations and info; now it sounds like I need to add some antifreeze to my system to slow the rust and keep my loop from freezing on these cold cold south florida nights! :rofl: I hope I can even buy aintifreeze here in S.FL :shrug:
So far my temps are still unaffected by the brown residue enough to make any difference. I'm guessing because the thermal conductivity of Iron-Oxide is still good enough and its only a thin layer that is still mixed with water. I'm in no mood to try and "fix" the system right now, but putting a bandaid on the problem would be good enough for me. I'm also going to rework two of the sub-loops soon to add a 5th cruncher to those loops so each subloop will have 5 crunchers. At that time i'll replace all the tubing in those two loops and give them a fresh start :)
*don't fix what isn't broken:
http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/p.../looptemps.jpg
Any auto parts shop will have coolant. It's the same stuff for both anti-freeze and anti-boil and they all have corrosion inhibitors. You can often get just the inhibitors without the glycol (or whatever organic substitute they use in the red stuff)
Now you only have to make one decision....
Coolant What color? Blue is typical Red is available ,,,from Toyota I think,,, :ROTF:
Here green is the common one (ethylene glycol based) while a lot of the newer models use an organic based coolant (red one, but Toyota make their own) but I've never seen blue automotive coolant. Plenty of blue brake fluid, but not coolant.
VW G11 coolant is blue.
You can also buy uncolored antifreeze.
considering his tubing is a poop brown color i don't think the color of the coolant will matter too much lol
trn I am very pleased you did not have too much damage to your system. One way to avoid completely the rust or coorosion issue would be to use a very low viscosity oil. Very thin synthetic oil. I am sure this exists. And oil has an excellent heat transfer capability. Your pumps may have the capability to pump such a thin oil. I think it is worth studying the issue. But you must be careful that this type of oil would be compatible with your tubing material.
That's something I've considered trying in a car for ages, except that oil transfers heat far slower than water (but still better than air). I still like the idea, I'm just not sure how to make it perform well enough. Yet.
dude i would rip that thing appart and check the blocks
if your tubes look like that
then your blocks must look................
i would just check em
Surely oil and water do not mix??? I thought that would create an emulsion and that would be worse than you have now.
You must not mix oil and water. I am mentioning a completely oil based circuit. There is no water at all inside. For that the tubing must be changed and all water purged.Quote:
Originally Posted by OldChap
You are right, but the heat absorption capacity of oil is much higher than water, in that oil can withstand very high temps which would not be acceptable to water. This could be a good solution if you plan to run your system hot.Quote:
Originally Posted by D_A
This also means that you do not need a high flow of oil. Pumps can run a lower rpm, less coolant volume, smaller diameter tubing, etc. Nevertheless it may mean larger radiator to dissipate heat. An interesting subject for a study anyhow.
The Specific Heat Capacity of water is pretty much unbeatable (4200 J/K iirc) - that's precisely why we use it in heating and cooling systems. Oil is nowhere near as efficient.Quote:
Originally Posted by EtaCarinae
You are right karbonkid and I am wrong. Your data is correct and for oil we are at 2000. The only thing that beats water largely is Hydrogen gas. At over 14'000 that is more than three times water. But I would not advise to use it and risk to blow up crash and burn the whole system like the Hindenburg. A fireball is not the best way to crunch, but to heat and light the room and the neighbourhood it is fine, albeit for a very short moment.Quote:
Originally Posted by karbonkid
What mislead me about oil is that oil has still an advantage for high temps when water boils. When water boils and becomes gaseous then the value goes down to 1850. And having steam means a lot of other problems. Oil whatsoever remains liquid and boils at much higher temperatures which allows it to be used to cool systems when water is not good anymore.
So trn my advice to use oil is ok but you must run your cpus at 150 deg (bypassing tjunction limit). Overclock to 6 or 7 Ghz and with oil youre done.:up:
No way out I am afraid trn you are stuck with water. I see your system is up and running again. Back to the race :D
if you get to the point of boiling water there are gonna be other serious issues that will matter more than the steam..
i remember seeing here on XS (i think) or maybe Tom's that 3M has a liquid that boils at a relatively low temp and they demonstrated a submerged overclocked system running without a heatsink at very good temps. A cookie goes to the first person to bulid a farm in a huge fish tank full of that liquid
Flourinert, I think. Good luck paying for it.Quote:
Originally Posted by shoota
People have built computers submerged in oil before, you just can't cool anything too powerful. There's also a company (if they're still around) that sells high-end systems cooled with standard liquid loops, but the whole thing is submerged in oil for good measure.
holy crap 55 gallons of that stuff weighs 850 lbs! can you imagine the shipping cost on that?!?
Hardcore Computer Reactor XQuote:
Originally Posted by karbonkid
I suppose if you have too much money, you can get one. Cost/benefit analysis would make it seem pretty clear that it's a huge waste of money, though.
Check out this sweet FOUR THOUSAND DOLLAR config:
1 x Overclocked Intel® Core™ i7 950 Quad Core Processor (3.5GHz, 8MB Cache)
1 x 650W power supply
6GB DDR3 1600MHz (3 x 2GB) tri-channel memory
1 x NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX 470 1280MB 320-bit GDDR5 video card
1 x 1.5TB removable hard drive
Slot-loading DVD burner
Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit
Wow. Blistering performance with only the latest parts... :rolleyes:
I can't imagine the hassle with warranties. Also, I remember there being someone on either xtremesystems or silentpcreview that used a custom box and filled it with mineral oil to cool his components. He ran into issues of the oil eating his sealant on the box. It was interesting, but it just isn't practical.Quote:
Originally Posted by artemm
:rofl::rofl: I concur... any color will be juuuust fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by shoota
I think mineral oil (which can be bought by the gallon at hardware stores is electrically non-conductive enough to not short computers. I think you just disable or remove all fans and you can dunk your parts in a fish tank of mineral oil and use that for passive cooling.Quote:
Originally Posted by karbonkid
Besides being a huge mess and not so easy to manage i'm not sure thats a good concept for a mass crunching farm. Even if I had a huge tank of this junk and I filled it with crunchers that constantly dump 3KwH into the tank... then how is the tank and liquid going to deal with that heat? This is extreme systems and people do all sorts of crazy things here, but for a crunching farm I think you need a way to move the heat away from the crunchers constantly. The easiest cooling solution is to move within the Artic Circle and crunch with air coolers :) Or heres a good idea... (:rolleyes:) No matter were on the globe your located, at ~30,000 feet its really :banana::banana::banana::banana:ing cold! even at the equator. Uh... after a bit of FAA clearance you need to hoist your crunching farm about to about 30,000 feet with some weather balloons and a hell of a long extension cord and fiber optic cable. Solar panels will also be more efficent at those heights and winds can be very very strong and constant so you can supplment your power needs with solar and wind also! So who at XS wants to build the first upper-troposphere WCG farm?? :p:
Now we're starting to think down the right path!
TRN, you are running tab water in your loop right? As others have suggested, I would strongly recommend adding a real corrosion inhibitor to the mix (not PT nuke :p: )
I use 1 part BASF G48 to 10 parts of destilled water in my watercooling loops. Works great even in mixed copper/alu loops (I have those for purely passive WC setups). No corrosion whatsoever even after several years of runtime.
Besides, it looks cool - turns your water into a light blue. You should be able to buy it at your local car dealer (since it's the same stuff that goes into cars) or order it online.
It also offers algae protection and anti-freeze capabilities - the perfect AIO solution really. For cars and PCs alike :D
http://www.basf.com/group/corporate/en/brand/GLYSANTIN
What you want is the topmost bottle here:
http://www.veredlungschemikalien.bas...antin/products
The others work just as well, but being red, they turn your water into a really gay looking color :sofa:
anything is better than the poop color he has now I'd think :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by jcool
aaah, .....Pink........Lovely
I think I may have over done it here My rad just showed up at the door...... it is about 2'9" wide and come to above my waist when standing on the floor :eek:
Still ......should cool 3 maybe 4 rigs ok :) ....maybe even run it passive what do you think?
Nice! :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by OldChap
What's that bad-boy from? a lorry? My biggest rad was from a '91 Chevy Blazer and is 34" x 24" x 1.25" or so. I'm sure it could run some rig passively, if you add one very low speed fan then it would do even better.
yep,
http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/6...ctros1843l.jpg
The hose connections are 2 1/2 inch so I have some parts still to buy to adapt it down to 3/4" Lord knows what the volume or filled weight will be
I'll try to get some pics later
Very nice! i'm jealous. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by OldChap
I tried to find a massive truck radiator here but they were all $700+ for a large copper truck radiator.
haven't really had a good look yet but I think this is a mix of copper ally and plastic
re-cored and in a sale ~$80 delivered.... bit of a no brainer really. I have a bronze circulating pump (just needs cleaning) copper pipe some brass fittings and taps hoping to add just rubber and plastic tubes and auto anti-freeze. Something to do over Christmas if Santa brings me some blocks (ek hf)
hay trn
what are the temps on your farm
its going to be cold in florida this week
you are in florida................ right?
Very nice; I think one thing I've learned from is that the brass circulator pump is worth the extra $$ vs the cast iron. I hear the EK blocks are priced better than in the US. The car/truck/lorry radiators are such overkill in water cooling just about any block ought to do the trick; 2C or 3C probably won't make or break the farm's performance. Anything you can get your hands on with good flow ought to do nicely :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by OldChap
46F right now and suppose to reach 32F tonight :eek: We had a cold winter one week last year and I hauled my ghetto-rigged WC w3520 outside at 4am one night to bench on my back patio at 32F to reach 4.5GHz :rofl: I don't think i'll be repeating that experiment tonight :ROTF: The farm is enjoying the nice cold weather though, and i'm regretting moving the PC's outside :DQuote:
Originally Posted by disturbed13
http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/p...ct/55Temps.jpg
wow good work, 4200mhz, 100% load, mid 30's C. that's temp pr0n lol
Temps might even drop below 32F in your neck of FL tonight, time to huddle around the crunchers for warmth :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by shoota
Make the fans pull the cold air from outside :cool:
trn, your temps at 4.2 Ghz are oustanding. I will never be able to match that with air cooling. And we are having at the moment -2 Deg Celsius.
But frankly if you are at such low temps, and your motherboard is good enough, and the PSU can keep with load and voltages, and power consumption cost are ok for you, then push man, push those clocks up, move to 4.3..4.4...4.5.. The 980X is capable of that. If you have 5% more on one unit you have 64% of an equivalent additional unit if you push all your 14 rigs. That is another 30'000 points at least. But yes they are pretty expensive. These are golden points.:D
trn I thought your objective was 100'000 ppd. You have reached it and are now largely beyond. Yesterday you were approaching 150'000 ppd. :eek:
I will have difficulties competing. I plan some additional power but I wonder if I can keep that level.
Once the numbers of Sandys start growing I think we'll see some sudden jumps in people's numbers. I think the show will be quite entertaining to watch.
I suspect it'll be a sort of dual effect from SB. The number of high end 1366 & 1156 setups that will trickle down to the "little guys" (like me) will also boost the numbers effectively. Gotta love sb :)
Right now I still only have 3 64bit machines, two of which are Opteron duallies (170 and 185) the rest are 32bit (sossamans, still love 'em though). If I could somehow score a couple more Q6600s I'd be pretty darn happy, some i7 920's and I'd be somewhat over excited or some 2600s ... well I'd need a towel or three ... and all the kit to actually USE them.
Freak reporting day :) I think I was averaging about 110,000 when all my machines were up. I've been cheating a bit, running HCC exclusive which my Linux machines love. I had 3 or 4 machines go down a week or so ago, I've been away from home in China for a bit, they should get a restart in a few days. No way I can keep up with the solar system, and i'm not even trying to win that battle, i'd get sucked into a black hole. I'm content for now to just try and keep everything up and running in the low 100,000's :)Quote:
Originally Posted by EtaCarinae
Speaking of being content, i'm also skipping the SB's for now. PPW isn't really any better than 6 core westmere with moderate clocks, my L5640's draw 185W and are producing average 6,800 ppd with windows and 7,600 Linux right now. I haven't been tracking the forums so much recently but I think that was out performing what Dave quoted his 200W SB at? 4 cores is soooo 2007 :D Intel you can do better than that!Quote:
Originally Posted by D_A