Agreed 100% Amazing quality sleeve.
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I'm in the hunt for some local PET sleeving suppliers. I can get Techflex from the Aussie distributor and their wholesale prices aren't too bad but the minimum of 20m means I need to move it.
I also found some from Cabac, this stuff here. Ordered a 4mm kit and I'll see how it goes!
Sorry for the double post, but wanted to give feedback on the Cabac stuff.
I sleeved a SATA cable with the 6mm stuff it and it turned out OK. I didn't have my camera on me, but I'd say the braiding was as tight as a Corsair PSU sleeve, about 60-70% opaque. It was my first sleeving and figured a couple of tricks already:
I started by cutting it with a hobby knife, but it frayed reallllly badly, like 2-3inches worth once I fed it over the cable. So I used a hot knife to cut the other end and this was friggen great!! It seared a few strands together but not the whole sleeves so I just needed to break it apart a bit to get it over the plug, but most of it stayed joined. Once I had it over the cable it hardly frayed at all!!
The 2nd issue I encountered I was using 2:1 heatshrink, which is crap for SATA cables, as it's nice a tight over the plug, but fairly loose over the braiding, plus it was non-adhesive so I can't see it sticking there long. Easy fixed though, I'll get some 3:1 gluelined for SATA cables.
My last issue was getting the length correct! The length off the reel != the length on the cable, as it expands the length shortens. This sounds obvious but hasn't been mentioned and tripped me up on the first one.
Hopefully this weekend I can get time to re-sleeve my Lian Li V1000 case cables, remove the grey plastic and add this instead.
Sadly the price isn't very cheap and in the long run MM stuff would probably work out cheaper. Cost me just under $20 ea pack for 10m of 4mm and 8m of 6mm, plus the 6mm isn't snug over the SATA cable, there is probably a mm or so slack.
Question I am building a HTPC and plan on using a Corsair HX620 with Murdermod sleeving. My question is if I cut the wires down in size making not as long does that effect the power of the unit or its duties? Also I am thinking it would be hell of allot easier to sleeve then the tool route. I would just have to re-solder the wires and slip the sleeving over it?
How would you get the sleeving length correct - or is there going to be a join in the middle of the sleeving? I am assuming you plan on using two smaller pieces of sleeving to cover each piece of wire and then soldering them back together.....I would recommend that you shorten the wires as necessary and then sleeve it by removing the pin to ensure that you have one piece of continuous sleeving.
Anyone have a good guide for sleeving and splicing of cable? I got the sleeving down (based on reading this), but am curious about best practices for splicing 3 into 1 fan lead.
Nice thread, ive always wanted to try sleeving my fans and thanks to you, I can now properly sleeve em!
I hate sleeving but I do it.
anyone have pics of an ATX cable that's sleeved in 2x2 grouping? so 4 wires per sleeve and would look like 6 big cables when done
if that doesn't make sense, I'll post a diagram
AFAIK most people do the single, or at most double
I might give it a shot with a spare PSU I have laying around, see what it looks like...might only do a small section just for ease of doing it
+1 for Techflex clean cut. McMaster-Carr also sells it. Search their site for Sleeving then navigate to Expandable Mesh > Easy Cut. A 100 foot roll of 1/8 inch is $25 USD.
For the money though, really, the Murdermod kit is absolutely outstanding. That's probably the way I will go in the future.
I'll be building an i7 rig this summer, and I would get the MurderMod kit, but I want white sleeving...
Does THIS look like it's good quality? Its from McMaster-Carr, but it's not the Easy Cut because that is just in black; it's just the 'Standard' sleeving.
Any one use, "Techflex Chrome Cable Sleeving"
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...Path=44_32_207
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...chrome_LRG.jpg
I just a picked up the cleancut from a local fry's...
I tried to get a comparison pic with the old techflex that fry's use to carry a couple of years back.
Also ordered some MDPC-x Sleeving to try that out also... I'll post that comparison also to show all three if i can.
Top: Standard Techflex
Bottom: Cleancut
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3355/...8b94db44_b.jpg
ok, Ender asked for a 4 wire grouping pic, took some time with an old PSU (its only 20 pin, thats why there's only 5 groups of 4 and not 6)
and before anyone goes OMG!!! those wires arnt in the right spots...no...I really DONT care about this PSU anymore (I dont even use it for a backup) so thats why I didnt put tons of care into doing the wiring of it, nor into doing a super super clean sleeve job, its mostly a proof of concept type
IIRC its 1/4in sleeve and 3/8th in heatshrink
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...r/IMG_2958.jpg
check out some of these pics and you'll see that I used it several places.
My opinion, it's nice, but in the end I would have chosen something else as it was hard to work with, showed wiring underneath and doesn't have the flexibility that I would have liked.
Cleancut (until I try the MBPC) is all I buy now. It's been fantastic.
man, I totally changed all the lengths of my PSU cables by lengthening or shortening them depending on what was needed. Soldered and sleeved everything, MM style as well. It was a hell of a job, but then I got custom length cables for my chassis.
edit: sorry for lame double post
Has anyone Sleeved an Antec 1000W Psu. If so can you tell me how to get those big plastic things off the cable. The thing that keeps the wires close together. You can see a pic of them Here. I just bought a MM Psychopack so i hope it does all my cables in my case, fans and all.
come precision exacto work? is it just plastic, or is it like a ferrite choke type thing that are on a lot of tagan PSUs?
Its pretty hard, the only thing i can think of is to take off all the wires from the connector and try to slide the thing off.
Someone please explain to me what I'm doing wrong :shrug:
I'm using this double sided tool from frozen cpu.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/38..._Fan_Flop.html
http://www.frozencpu.com/images/prod...n/too-07_3.jpg
So I'm doing exactly what they show on the murdermodz site to the atx in order to remove the pins. Unfortunately it's not working at all. I tried this on a psu, extension, and other cables. I used both the double and single side. I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong :shrug: :shakes:
http://www.mdpc-x.com/components/com...e=200&fileout=
you have to get the prongs on the outside of the metal plug but on the inside of the plastic, sometimes it takes the manipulation of the wire to fit both prongs on the outside of the metal but inside the plastic. you have to then press hard with the tool into the connector while pulling with your other hand on the wire you want to remove.
I see what you mean. I noticed the 2 tabs on the outside that have to be pressed in for a release. I tried but no go so far. I'll take your advice and fiddle with it some more. Seems so easy, yet it's being a pain in the a** :shrug:
Update...
I got one out :clap:
I wanted to buy a Revolution 85+ and sleeve it myself, but I didn't have the balls. So I ordered it from FrozenCPU.com with the full braided sleeving option. I'll let you guys know how it looks, and maybe write up my impressions in the PSU forum.
I used staples for my 24-pin and 8-pin. A major PITA. Then, I switched to the tool Eddie showed ... broke one of the prongs within 5 minutes. Then ordered several of the cheap $4 tools - broke one, but then did 6 PCI-E cables without breaking anything. It definitely is a matter of patience and caution when pulling the wire out that you don't bend the prong on the tool.
this is still a WIP - all tubes will be sleeved (there are a few missing as of right now)
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...S/100_4540.jpg
Ladies and gentlemen, I would like to present to you the best tool I have come across as of yet....Mr Pin head!
Seriously, these are 1000 times better than staples as they don't need bending and they're THICKER so the push the metal prongs in better! So what are you waiting for!?!?! I swear these will make life easier.
http://i44.tinypic.com/kdpfgx.jpg
http://i39.tinypic.com/33p3c4x.jpg
Hey dingdong555 do you sleeve one wire at a time and put back into place then go to next one? I plan on wiring a Corsair 620HX and 1000HX in the next couple of days.. Of course with murder parts...:D
Can anyone advise me of the best Tool, or Method's they have used, to remove the pins on a Ultra X2 or X3 24 pin cable? They seem to be MUCH tighter of a area to get into then other PSU's
Well, a few times I've mentioned the Cabac cable now so I thought I better post some pics! My first cabling attempt:
http://masseys.id.au/pics/index.php?...=cables002.jpg
The 'see throughness':
http://masseys.id.au/pics/index.php?...=cables008.jpg
It uses a 3x3 thread and I'm damn impressed. Probably the biggest 'downside' is the lack of sizes, 4, 6, 10, 15, 20 then bigger still.
Just need to find a supplier who does 3:1 gluelined 6mm and 10mm heatshrink now! The non-glue stuff slides a bit I've found.
EDIT: God damn, I thought I fixed it so I could hotlink. Oh well, click the links :)
@downforce
where can you buy the sleeves that you posted on the link? thats a nice sleeve.
Huh...I didn't do it that way. I started out trying to do both sides at once but it was crushing the metal. So I tried pushing the staple down one side, then down the other. When I did so, the wires just slipped right out with very little problem.
Once I figured that out, getting the wires out wasn't nearly the problem that getting the sleeving stretched right was.
peace,
Aielman
The company that makes them are Cabac (http://www.cabac.com.au/), which is distributed through Legend here in Aus. I have an account with Legend so I got it through them.
On the prices I paid, it's not much cheaper than MM, in fact it was like AUD$20 for a 10m bag of 4mm and same for 8m bag of 6mm stuff. Buying by the 100m roll works out about 1/2 that price though but that means cutting it and bagging it (if I was to onsell it) + all extra overheads.
Their Contact Us page has a Fiji and PNG contact, not sure if you can get it from them? Otherwise their 10m/8m packs are pretty small & light, send me a PM if you get desperate (hope this is OK to do!).
I must say that the pin removal tool murdermod sells is very good. Just plug it in and pull out the cable. Extra force than you'd think is required of the pulling (I hear this is common in Corsair PSUs).
Just push the cable in as far as you can in the connector, while holding the cable push in the pin removal tool, then grab the connector (while the tool is inside and resting on the table) and pull out the cable. I found it very easy to do with a thick towel on the working table. Did two six-pins today, took almost five hours :)
Another tip is to do one cable, and then pull out the sleeving and cut 11 more (if doing two six pins) with the one as reference. This will make sure that all are of equal length.
Cool. Just remember, take it slowly and get to know the tool. It took me almost an hour to get out the first cable since I didn't realize how much force it took, how to pull and how to get the tool inside the connector easily. I thought that the tool was plenty expensive, so I didn't want to break it.
But when I got the hang of it it took less than 10 seconds.
Congrats Zehnsucht - your approach is professional and intelligent :)
The Molex brand removal tool is the best I've used. I've tried a few others and they were a waste of time. Staples worked better for me than the other tools but the Molex tools works, and works very well. Just pop it in and pull the cable out. I'm sure that anyone who has sleeved their cables would want to save the hassle of using a poor tool.
Hey guys, on my HX520 there was one purple wire wrapped around a black wire in a spiral. The black one is a double black on the pin. Did you sleeve both those blacks together?
Oh man. It was wicked hard to fit the sleeved wires inside that little hole. I've sleeved all the way inside...
Anyone here know what kind of tool to use to remove the pins on a fan extension cable? (not sure either of these pics are going to turn out really well or not...)
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b.../IMG_33821.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b.../IMG_33831.jpg
if you need others, feel free to ask and I'll try my best to get one
a 24 pin removal tool doesn't work, its too wide (the tool)
Subscribed, very nice :)
You want a 3-/4-pin remover tool, it looks something like this:
http://www.sunbeamtech.com/PRODUCTS/...kit_r8_c10.jpg
I have that Sunbeam model, I don't know who else makes them or how they compare. But I'm sure there's better out there.
The spot you're looking for is the "holes" in the connector on the side, not the "top" as you pictured.
You don't necessarily need that specific tool though. Pretty much anything you can fit inside those holes to press the little "release" will work just fine.
I hope that helps, sorry if I wasn't more clear!
tried that (I have the sunbeam tool) thats a female fan header, not the male, the tool you pictured is for male fan headers
Dangals, huge thanks for your guide! The staples method is perfect for anybody, who hasn't special tools. I used double staples, because single don't push the pin holders properly.
I sleeved my 24pin ATX in 3 days and felt free when it was done :)
Guys, why don't you make extensions for cables instead of sleeving PSU cables? They can be used if you want to change the PSU and doesn't void the warranty.
Umm... I think I'm missing the white (-5V) cable. Is this normal?
Doesn't look that there is one here:
http://www.techaddicts.net/reviews/hx620/620hx.9.jpg
http://www.techaddicts.net/reviews/hx620/hx620.html
It's not meant to be there, on newer PSU's (including mine) it's not there :) I don't know why, but it works without it :D
yep, I don't have white cable too
Toughpower 850
yeah you dont need it.... I think its white because its always empty because I have never seen a PSU with a white wire....
So if i take out all the black cables, does it matter which oder they go back in the housing? Same for all the other colors. If i take out all the red, does it matter which order they go back in?
all wires of identical color are the same function and can be mixed and matched.
anyone else with any input on pin removal of fan extension cables? (fan controllers/ 3 pin->molex adapters) nothing I've gotten my hands on so far has worked (sunbeam kit, 0.7mm pencil, nozzle from a can of air)
for the 3-pin fan connector there are 3 windows on the side of the connector. In these "windows" you will see the metal connector itself. There are tabs that stick up from the connector holding it inside the plastic. With a pushpin or thumbtack, press the tab down until you can remove the wire from the plastic piece. For the 4-pin molex side, there are usually 2 or 3 tabs that extend out from the circular pin if you look down from the top of the connector. I take that same pushpin and carefully push those tabs back into the circular pin, allowing me to remove the pin from the plastic molex piece. Hope that helps, and if not, i'm sure your answer is somewhere within this thread, just browse it for a little.
Removing the pins from a molex connector is easy peasy, just use the "inside" pen from a ball point pen, and use the top hole to stick into the connector.
guys hes talking about the female end of an extension cable - I have no Idea how to remove those sort of pins although I too have tried for quite a while to get them out ....
ooooOOOOOOoo! i get what he's talking about, now i just have to find one around here to figure out how to get it apart...
yeah, I've been fighting with them since the day before i posted up those pics a page back, lol, no harm done, easily confused item, lol....guess its what I'm getting for wanting to replace the extensions on my kaze master with black....the fans were easy, lol...its just those *bleeping* extensions that are driving me nuts
I know you can get the end off of the kaze extensions that goes into the controller, thats how I sleeved mine. I can't remember the exact way I did it but I think its pretty straight forward ;)
yeah, I sleeved by working out of the other end, but I picked up a bunch of black male and female fan headers, and am trying to figure out how to swap out the female end without having to cut and re-crimp...although...some creative cutting might work, lol
yeah, the controller end IIRC was just lift the plastic tab and pull the wire out
I sat up all last night and read this whole thread. This is by far the best guide I have ever seen. Thanks for starting it Dangals and to everyone that has participated. This is great!!!
Edit:I went back through the thread looking for the screwdriver someone used a dremel on to get the pins out and I can't find it.
Awesome guide. thank you for all the information :) but Will Sleeving the Psu void the warranty ?
Warranty:
Take the sleeving off if you have a non-modular PSU. If you have a modular: Take off the sleeved cables and take the sleeve off of the non-modular ones.
The original sleeve (out of factory) removed is usually not an issue. "It can happen that it burned or that you didn't like the look". Alterations like soldering etc, is more of an issue if someone doesn't want to give warranty. But especially in this "recession" the companies are very very helpful. We have asked many PSU-manufacturers and they said the same: sleeving the cables does not affect warranty. But I don't say the company-names to not get sued afterwards :D Just call your company if you worry.
You can use a single pin extractor and insert it above the pin, (I think it's a male connector), and release the pin. You don't have to go very far.
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/6...tractor.th.jpg
Here is a close up on the pin so you can see what your after.
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/4669/fanpin.th.jpg
I sent a fully individual wire sleeved tx750 (died on me the instant I finished sleeving it :doh:) back to corsair and they accepted it no questions asked :up:
Mr.Miyagi used a murderMod Psychopack (in Germany from MDPC-X called Konjunkturpaket / Götterpackung / Familienpackung). 3 Sizes of Sleeve and 4 sizes of heatshrink make it possible to play and do transitions from individual wires to big bundles as seen on the photo.
The energy you wasted complaining and trying to be a douche bag could have been used in a positive manner with a simple answer, it's forum that's what its for, many don't have the time to read 16 pages of mix junk like the one you just produce, be kind and productive.
most of the info in regards to it is on page 1 anyways...
c'mon now, you don't have time to read 16 pages but you have time to sleeve every wire on your psu? it is at least a 3 hour project and maybe more since you haven't done it before. i know this is the internet and all, but you asked for help in a rude manner and then start calling people douche bags. what kind of reception do you think you'll get? instead of "give me" you can try "can you" and then maybe you'd get more help. damn, i aint your mom but you're the one asking for the favor here. manners much?
anyways, http://www.murdermod.com/
i want to know if enermax would do anything if i sleeved my cables or is better to just get extensions and sleeve those?
the other option is at ppcs they sell cables that are on the modu 82+ which are universal cables (as i think) which work with modular connections
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=23810
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=23807
i officially hate you all sooo much, iv sleeved the 8pin cpu power, and its extender, as well as all the front panel cables on my cosmos black label, and now my fingers are a cluster :banana::banana::banana::banana: of cuts, gashes and bruises... also my fingernails are destroyed
im sleeving a Corsair HX1000, which (i tested this) is about 1000x more difficult to remove the pins from than any other powersupply
(i tested my antec TPQ-1000, some generic crap, and a 600watt coolermaster, all of which were super easy to de-pin)
anyway pics of where im up to below...
http://i40.tinypic.com/ne9ans.jpg
http://i43.tinypic.com/2it6fck.jpg
http://i40.tinypic.com/w63wx.jpg
http://i42.tinypic.com/es2fpd.jpg
I feel your pain, MulletBoy. Courtesy of my HX1000 ...
http://shazza53.smugmug.com/photos/4...85_hcwEc-S.jpg
I must admit - I am a little curious as to how it is that everyone seems to hurt themselves while sleeving? :shrug: I have never cut myself with all the sleeving I have done...
The corsair power supplies are that hard. You have to pull 'til you get almost blue in the face. At one point you will not care where your hands are so when it finally lets go the pin will skrape your skin on the other hand with full force.
ya, in order to get a good enough grip you need to curl your index finger around the back (end that the cable pulls out from) of the connector (which has sharp corners btw)
then when you pull with all your might and the pin comes out, it latches through the joint in your index finger like a fishing hook, i also got similar cuts on my thumb too when the connector slips out of my grip and the corner of that rips through my thumb
Yep ... that pretty much describes it. It's the pulling that ends up with the cuts. My problem was when I used staples for the 24-pin and 8-pin removal on the Corsair. I then switched to the Sunbeam tool for the PCI-E cables, had better luck with that - but I also had more practice by then :p:
I never had to use so much strength. I think many of you guys are ham fisting it.
My first few times was more brute force but once I nailed down the technique, I realised that no strength was needed.
In fact the callouses I get on my thumb are from all the heat shrinking as I keep having to strike the lighter with my thumb. :D
Those cuts are made by using stable wires i guess, with the proper tool i dont think you can cut your self even intentionally. Im still learning on how to effortlessly remove the pins using the sun beam tool.
hmmmm - I have sleeved both a silverstone and a corsair unit using staples as well as a pin remover and neither one was harder than the other and defeinately did not result in cuts or anything....
However I think I am going to invest in one of the molex tools that Charles has on his website for my next sleeving attempts.
I think that you cant do things which you wouldnt be able to do with all their basicaly requeriments they need. I think the message is clearly enough.:)
By the way.
I would be interested to see if anyone have sleeved their cables with BLUE (no light blue, just BLUE) or ORANGE (or if there exist any colour like the copper tone)
If someone have some in that way, or have any pictures, I dont bother if who show the material is not the owner, Just because I couldnt find sleeves with those colours and I would like to see if they match.
LOL ... I did get better at it. Actually found pushing the pins "in" before trying to pull them out helped a lot. I am absolutely a klutz, so people shouldn't be scared off by my experience.
And ... theseeker used gloves ... they looked hilarious, but saved his fingers!
the tool can be found here