Nice work!! keep showing and pics and good luck with catching the mouses :)
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Nice work!! keep showing and pics and good luck with catching the mouses :)
See how it's going from in focus to out of focus, it's bending towards the camera. Just an optical illusion.;)Quote:
Originally Posted by kinghong1970
Thanks for the support ward0 (I'm having a hell of a time catching Furoma mice...wastin' my cheese :mad:)Quote:
Originally Posted by ward0
Update?
Happy to say I've been using this rig for the past week or so (addicted to SF4 for that matter, despite the travesty that is GFWL) and it's running beautifully. Fully bled, no leaks, good temps. I'm very happy that both loops just...work! True plug and play. This niche has obviously come a long way from aquarium pumps and water wetter.
There are 2 irritating delays which is still holding things up:
-Koolance TMS200 is enroute back to Koolance via UPS expedited. There was a delay of a few days in getting the UPS shipping label emailed to me (part of the RMA process), but credits to Dean, 1 phone call and 10mins later all the necessary emails flew in 1 by 1. I hope it's fixed and gets back to me soon, because in the meantime there is a vomit of temporary wiring in the pci slots area that's splitting full-time 12V to pumps + fans. It's ugly and loud, and I hesitate to upload any photos of it in its current state.
-I have 1 last bit of metal work to do for the drive bay area, this is getting held up because the raw material (aluminum plate) has not arrived yet.
Hey Kibbler,
From what i've seen, you're using Enzotech heatsinks on the MOSFET, right ?
Are they good ?
Cause i need to replace mine on the R2E, and have 2 options, Enzotech or Thermalright, can't decide which one :(
We need pics of your loops runing :p::p:
LOL ... I keep coming back to this thread hoping to see the updated pics to show this system in its full glory. Glad you're getting to use the PC while waiting for your RMA. Your attention to detail and creativity is amazing.
Yep they're Enzotech sinks. Are they good? I'm not taking mosfet temps so no comment there, but they are machined accurately, install easily (EK backplate highly recommended), and look nice. They also come with thermal pad pre-applied which saves you some trouble.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blizzy
Lol, thanks Shazza, I appreciate your comment and I am sorry to continue to disappoint. Believe me I'm eager to get those final photos done, too. How about a compromise, some quick and dirty photos? :)Quote:
Originally Posted by shazza
Oh BANANAS look at that goddamn mess, that's as far from "full glory" as it gets. That red sata? :sick: Gotta go.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3503/...f3dd63fd_b.jpg
I like this fan. Nice color.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3454/...a6561e6f_b.jpg
Pretty pleased with how well the top portion worked out (except for that lousy temporary wiring :mad:)
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3442/...fe20ae60_b.jpg
Like The Pics so far
I'm really digging that HD power cable array Kibbs, nicely done. :up:
Looking forward to the next update. :)
(Shazza hope I'm not making your blood boil with these consistent photo-less updates lol!)
Let it be known that this project is DEFINITELY NOT dead. Just that progress has been slower in the final touch-up stage.
-I've been working on an aluminum stealthing plate that I think y'all will like. A lot of cutting, drilling, and lots and lots of filing and sanding has gone into it. I have no work-in-progress photos to show right now because...
1. I intend to show it fully once it is finished and powdercoated.
2. My hands were covered in aluminum dust from all the sanding and filing and I ain't gettin' that :banana::banana::banana::banana: on my camera. No way.
Oh yeah, 100% dremel and filing Ashraf-style. None of that laser or water cutting you rascals enjoy. :rofl:
-New radgrills on the way that I think will improve the overall look.
-New feet (goodbye little wheels you will be missed!)
Thanks for looking and I promise to keep updating! :)
Very happy with how things are coming along.
Scrap aluminum carnage. Somewhere in the world, the Lian Li where this came from now has a window. That sound insulation is a RIGHT B*TCH to get off.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3491/...2cae5fc0_b.jpg
Whoo my stealth plate! MM owners should have an idea where this will go. Bottom left is a spare USB backplate that I used as a drilling/filing template. Bottom right is a 16mm push switch for the eject button.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3535/...0369c625_b.jpg
Like I said: All done by hand. Dremel, drill, file, and sandpaper. Sure it would have taken all of 30 minutes with a laser or water cutter, but where's the fun in that. ;)
What's left?
-painting (or anodizing...if I can find a local shop to do it)
-some electrical work for the eject button
:)
Am interested in ur electrical works for the button
Thumbs up for sweating it out !
kibbler you didnt see my instructions on how to remove the foam did you? I posted in your thread...
Love your 'Stealth Plate.' Very creative stuff, and your dremel work is amazing. (Whew, glad you got some photos in the recent updates, you know how anxious I get ;) )
Thanks Greg. I will upload some photos of that process.Quote:
Originally Posted by GregSG
I did see it, thanks, although it came a bit late. In the end I simply used boiling water, it's more eco friendly :rofl:. I had removed enough (about 1/3 of the panel's worth) by the next day (Sunday, aforementioned thread was created Saturday) to get to work.Quote:
Originally Posted by SNiiPE_DoGG
great cuts kib... as expected from the master of the nibbler; manual work is much more rewarding. :D
:rofl: Thanks Shazza. Photos are the lipitor of worklogs. Blood pressures start to go up without them......Quote:
Originally Posted by shazza
Thanks bianco, incidentally the poor little nibbler sat this one out. It has a tough time with thicker panels, even relatively softer aluminum. You hit the nail on the head (so to speak) on manual work. I find it is very rewarding.:)Quote:
Originally Posted by bianco
Relocating a CD-ROM eject button, part I.
This is a simple mod but one that is seldom seen, so I decided to make a guide for it should anyone be interested. For my stealth plate it would have been great to laser-cut a flexible "tab" ala Murdermod to press the eject button, but sadly my skills are not up to the task.:( So I'm going forward with this instead. Hope you guys find it helpful.
Many photos here so let's keep them small. To enlarge, click to go to flickr, then click "all sizes" at the top.
1. Got my spare PSU set up to power the optical drive and a fan to make sure the power juices are flowing.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2635/...8969884f1d.jpg
2. Fan spinning: check. Power: check. Hit the eject button: Check.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3460/...375ce107ce.jpg
3. Disconnect everything, return the fan to spare parts storage hell. Flip over, attack weak points for massive damage (in this case, 4 screws). Unscrew and open.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2526/...235e5b47b8.jpg
4. Those 4 solder points in a trapezoidal arrangement, that's the eject button ('EJECT' is etched into the PCB). Aside: Every CD drive I've opened have 4 solder points for the switch, I dunno why there are always 4, 2 should be enough for a simple push-to-make circuit. Anyway, if you want to double check which ones you need, just plug in the drive, bridge 2 points (I used the surgical nippers above) and see if the drive opens. For me it's the top-left-most 2 points, so I'll need to solder extensions to them.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2625/...4e234310e6.jpg
5. Alright flip her over again. Move the tray around until you can access the motor and rubber-band drivetrain.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2569/...45134258ca.jpg
6. There it is.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2484/...c3dde8e6ed.jpg
7. Gently undo the rubber band. I used a small allen wrench. Don't lose it.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3428/...4ec8a8e75d.jpg
8. Once the motor is disengaged you can gently extract the eject/led/motor PCB assembly, shown here.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2468/...85aa20df9d.jpg
9. Gently disconnect the thin flex cable from the main PCB, and you're left with this. Put the rest away, preferably in a ziploc to keep it dust free. If you intend to paint the steel exterior, might as well leave things disassembled yea.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2452/...f4c4d82fd1.jpg
Next up: Activity LED, soldering, re-assembly.
:)
Oooh ... I have never seen that mod before, but I can see where it might come in very handy for some configurations. You just keep the good stuff coming - thanks!
Relocating a CD-ROM eject button, part II.
1. Let's start here.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2452/...f4c4d82fd1.jpg
2. De-solder the LED and remove it. Then panic as you look online to find out how to identify anode and cathode while the soldering iron is still plugged in.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3421/...c4799a2230.jpg
3. That'll do.
http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/8646/led.gif
4. Then ID the LED solder points.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2565/...235857a1fb.jpg
5. Now solder 26awg wire to the eject + LED leads (4 total). Keep track of the LED PWR + GND wires. Once sleeved it'll be a b-tch to tell them apart. Alternatively, you can NOT be an idiot (like me) and use different colored wires. :doh:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3568/...d445f31725.jpg
6. Closeup.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2587/...df4b43a494.jpg
7. Next, take your trusty drill...
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3425/...85239b19cc.jpg
8. ...and drill a hole somewhere on the back of the housing. Be careful, the bit will go through plastic like butter. I think that hole is...3/16"? 3/16"-ish.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3539/...c0e0b403f7.jpg
9. Run the wires through that freshly-drilled hole. No mod is complete without sleeving eh?
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3579/...c848320edd.jpg
10. Another angle. Throw a ziptie on the other side for stress relief. Pull it tight.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3494/...cc2a6217e7.jpg
11. Throw some electrical tape over the connection area.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3489/...cf9a38e367.jpg
12. And that's pretty much it! Before re-assembly I cut out a rectangular piece of foam and placed it on top of the electrical taped area. Once the bottom panel is screwed back on the foam will keep pressure on the electrical tape insulation, keeping it in place even if it decides to un-sticky in the future.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3470/...02b5e5e04f.jpg
13. Once re-assembled the wiring comes out neatly. Test your handiwork by plugging the PSU back in, stripping back the eject leads a bit and shorting them. If the tray opens, voila, mission accomplished. You can test the LED leads, too, but that task is more suited for people with 3 or more hands.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2442/...d13e337828.jpg
Obviously the other end of the cable are still bare wires. You have a few options: Solder them directly to the switch (not recommended), or use an interconnect like a ATX4pin male + female crimp housing or hey, normal molex would work, too.
That's all folks. Hope it was helpful.
:)
It is definitely helpful!
Very good mod....though not something one should do for the start
Fantastic Kibbs! :up:
Thanks for taking the time to share that. :)
Thanks guys and girl, appreciate the feedback:)Quote:
Originally Posted by shazza + GregSG + Charles
Some good news:
RMA turnaround from Koolance was great and 14+ hour time difference aside Dean was responsive to emails. According to UPS my package arrived in Washington 8/11 11:31AM, then left on the same day at about 7PM. That kinda efficiency either means a) their technicians really know what they're doing, or b) it was a very routine fix, or c) they found nothing wrong with it (:shrug:). UPS tried to deliver to my door but I was out all day yesterday. Let's hope it works out of the box this time.
Photography related:
This case is big, and for the full-frontal shots I need a big honkin' backdrop. What are you guys using for yours, or is there a suitable (cheaper) DIY solution like vinyl sheets or something? I think 10ft x 20ft oughta be enough, right?
well if you need a 20 foot wide backdrop thats going to be an expensive roll of backround paper if you can even find it.... I shot Flow on a 9foot background so I cant see you needing any bigger than that and you can always extend the background edges in photoshop without altering the image of the computer ;)
lol, ok 10ft x 20ft is just ignorant and exaggerated :p:. Besides real-deal background paper, which I expect to be expensive, do you know of any suitable substitutes?
In the size of 8ft-9ft wide and as tall as you need it to be? a few kind size bed sheets maybe, other than that nothing.
In the US a roll of 9ftx12yrds nice gray background paper is $45, its not too bad considering 12 yards will last at least 2-3 shoots, longer if your very careful, just make sure you have a backgroung pole and some stands to hang it up on.
I've been a big fan of your drain system and your cuts. I consider this one of those worklogs I never want to see end (selfish I know).
Always a treat to see what surprise you have for us on virtually every update.
Thanks for sharing what you do. :up:
Thanks CDF :). It's my pleasure to share my (slow) progress and it is icing on the cake to hear that it can be helpful/interesting to others. My modding skill is obviously not setting any high bars but I do hope to get a few good ideas out there.Quote:
Originally Posted by CptDreadFlint
S_D thanks for your suggestions I'm having a look around to see what's available locally.
***
Cross your fingers guys. I got my TMS-200 back from Koolance. Time to shut down and plug her in...
If I'm back in 15 minutes then everything is fine and dandy.
If I'm not...well...
Just wait longer! :D
In all seriousness I hope it works. I don't want to deal with another RMA.
a close friend of mine bought textile for background. then eventually bought a portable light box. and now considering big muslin cloth.
Okay we're good. Props to Koolance :up:, I'd expected worse after hearing multiple-RMA stories.
Here's what I'm getting on idle, with some quick and dirty auto-adjustment settings. Ambient is 29C by the way. Yes I hate the climate here.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2456/...1f7c0f3e_o.jpg
I'm heading to bed now but there are still some comments I want to make about this setup and how I intend to tweak it. More tomorrow.
Good to hear I that everything worked out this time... can't wait to see you tweak it some more.
I was interested in picking up one of these, but would be interested to see your review.
Also let's see some pic's :p:
Fantastic Build Kibbler :up:
i love the tube brackets - very smooth :yepp:
& a big thanks for the instructional DVD mod :cool:
lets see some more :D
Love it - need more full piccies though!!!
~Bex
JPM, Prada, and Bex: Thanks for your kind words and support. I promise there's more coming. For instance, I have a small stack of parts sitting here beside me that's going to the powder coater tomorrow.
Obligatory behind-the-motherboard-tray wire management.
That bundle coming up on the left is the ATX8pin. I'm not 100% happy with how it's crossing under the fan/pump/sensor/pwr/reset/led bundle, but I'm out of mounting points and ideas.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3530/...fae4291d_b.jpg
Very beautiful cable management. Nice job!
Great job Kibbs! :up:
I'm glad to hear you're up and running without incident Mate.
Looking forward to seeing the final touches you've got planned. :)
0xDB and Charles, thanks for your comments guys :). More is on the way. Dropped off some parts at the powder coater (Defu Lane, the same shop that kozato, joechuo went to. Maybe bianco and bullydog, too). I'll have them back in a few days.
In the meantime I worked on some other areas.
Took these out. So long, wheels.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2628/...d58399ab18.jpg
Installed some proper feet. They're at 45deg angles to each of the 4 corners. This is a lousy photo, personally I really like how they look, especially at the front.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2514/...81093e99fa.jpg
FYI these are the feet I used (Lian Li stock, material is anodized AL).
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2508/...bb08114ca9.jpg
Why 45deg angles and not straight out to the side? Well like many parts of this worklog the final result is as much dumb luck as intentional design. Mountain Mods feet/castor mounting holes are drilled to some kind of industrial standard: A square pattern of 4 holes, each about 27mm apart center to center. Every set of castors I've come across in hardware stores have that same measurement. Lian Li in their usual infinite wisdom prefer their own standards. I thought they would be a drop in replacement. Instead, the holes don't line up.
Sad :(
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2560/...47113ac18d.jpg
But, to my surprise :eek::eek:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2472/...166248ebff.jpg
The diagonal is 27mm center to center. There you have it, 45deg angled feet. Dumb luck.
I went back to redo the ATX8pin. Much better now.:D
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2613/...7f2f5f80_b.jpg
Let's take a look at the other side. I loved Gadgeteer57's last shot so here's my amateur attempt at a wide-angle internal. Let me know what you think.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2609/...7c71b494_b.jpg
EDIT: Akkarin, I got your PM but "Akkarin has chosen not to receive private messages or may not be allowed to receive private messages. Therefore you may not send your message to him/her. If you are trying to send this message to multiple recipients, remove Akkarin from the recipient list and send the message again." Answer to your question is I bought them from cableorganizer.com and chilledpc.co.uk. They're probably available locally (sim lim tower?) but I haven't the time to go look.
Kibbler love the wire management.. I think think the 8 pin looked that bad in the other picture but looks even better...
Like the new feet also, matches the black aluminum look of the case.
Looks great man, that last shot is great. It needs a focal point though. Even if everything is in focus(High App), it's hard to see anything. With all the colors and wire, in addition to graphics card being directly in the middle, it leads our (mine at least) eyes directly to the back of that graphics card. I'm no pro photographer, but am only telling you what I would do :) Hope that helps?
Enjoy the Rig man.
Been following this for a long time, nice to see it very nearly finished. Fantastic work! :D
EDIT: What fan is this here?
Those appear to be Noiseblockers.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterStoba
I dig the wallpaper you're sporting, Kibs! Feels Super Mario Brother-ish. :)
Thanks JPM :)Quote:
Originally Posted by jpm804
Thanks for your suggestions. I had to squeeze me + tripod under the desk for that shot so my concerns were admittedly less on composition and more on framing what I wanted to show and not twisting my spine. I will certainly keep your ideas in mind when setting up for the final photos.Quote:
Originally Posted by Armitage
Thanks Peter, I am just as happy that it's finally up and running.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterStoba
That is correct. NB XL-1 1000rpm to be exact. Although by most measures a terrible performer, I chose it more for the color. It's not cooling anything in particular anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by CptDreadFlint
very nice kibler, very clean :)
Thanks Oli4V.
Update:
Powder coated parts are back and the finish looks great. Will take and upload photos later today (going to see UP! after work first :)).
When I went to pick up my parts I saw a bike frame that someone had powder coated white, what a neat idea and I thought it looked bloody nice! If you have an old cro-moly or aluminum frame sitting in your garage, a quick media blast and powder coating will have it looking brand new.
Ok more to come.
Can't wait to see the pics.... :up:
Any chance we will see full view computer shots this time ... dying to see how the overall case with the parts looks like...
Only just found time to post in here, but truly fantastic work. Every time i go on Flickr you photos are always coming up in my searches and really are great. Kudos to you, with thanks for the eye candy, and inspirations to myself and many others.
Thanks JPM and bentleya, your comments are sincerely appreciated :).
UP! was good by the way. Go watch it.
Did I mention pics?
Radgrills from ChilledPC. When I brought these parts to the powdercoater the guy said he's never seen anodizing as dark as the what was on these grills. And he's right, the original black is a couple shades darker than LiLi and MountainMods' work. It absorbs light like a freaking black hole. So, even though they are now powdercoated to match, good job Tom. That was a very distinctive product out of the box.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2635/...95ec5f8a_b.jpg
Stealth plate.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2573/...cf96c783_b.jpg
Part of the original drive bay. MM owners, notice the holes have been drilled out much larger? That's because this part will go on the INSIDE of the case. I drilled the holes out so they will fit around the diameter of the original threaded inserts. A picture speaks 1000 words, too bad I forgot to take one.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2575/...b6445c79_b.jpg
Top part of the DVD drive.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3549/...a30c95a4_b.jpg
That square pattern is accidental, I didn't realize the horizontal grill and verticle radiator channels would form such a distinctive pattern. Haven't decided if I like it though. Those power/reset buttons are very stock, and very boring. I had 2 LED switches all wired up, then when I went to de-solder them for some adjustments, I managed to f-ck up both of them (too much heat, melted plastic base). Sigh...2 more on the way, $30 down the drain. Check out the new feet at the corners there.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2439/...49982c2f_b.jpg
USB ports are not installed so you can see through the holes. Here the DVD tray doesn't line up perfectly because...well...the internal drive bay is not fully screwed in. I misplaced a baggie of #6 nuts. Don't worry, it lines up.:up:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3435/...e4fedb79_b.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2455/...1f860bbf_b.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2462/...bc3745c9_b.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3496/...9c102025_b.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2486/...2de36725_b.jpg
that faceplate looks realy awesome o.o
any overall picture showing everything set up ? :P
Bravo Kibbs! :up:
Outstanding execution Mate and love the images!
How do you feel about the optical drive look - any further plans in that area?
I don't want to be critical and of course my position is purely subjective but I wonder how it would look without the grills. I find they serve to accentuate the boxy thing. That may of course be the vibe you're going for in which case (hehe, case - get it) I'd say you nailed it. :)
Looking forward to seeing it with the power/reset buttons you settle on... the temp ones you've got are really driving the overall sense of strong symmetry... I really like the one you've got for the optical drive access... nice and minimal.
Fit and finish is spot on... well done Kibbs!
I have to agree with Blizzy and Charles - Fantastic Work Kibbler!!
I am loving the what you have done with this and I am really looking forward to seeing the final shots once everything is done!
Your shots are great as well! More please :up:
Thanks a lot Blizzy, good luck working on your Pinnacle as well. If you're interested in the dimensions for the faceplate just shoot me a PM. It should be easy as pie to crank out of a CNC. More photos incoming...but I'll be on vacation for 2 weeks in September (dreamaxx I'm heading to Gold Coast!) so if the photo setup is not ready by then I apologize in advance for the long wait.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blizzy
And really, I know a thing or two about waiting. This worklog was started, what, last July? lulz :D
Thanks Charles, your comments and input are very valuable as always :). Please continue to be critical.Quote:
Originally Posted by charles_h
The optical drive area, I shot for simplicity and it seems I hit it, too well maybe. I'd entertained a few ideas but in the end they were almost all dropped due to either 1) lack of proper tools and mad skillz, or 2) a busy stealth plate would defeat the purpose, like Sam Fisher's 3000 lumens 'night vision' tri-headlights (Yeah, I have night vision goggles, too. It's called a maglite, idiot).
Here's a quick chop with some of the ideas considered (some not seriously obviously...). For the grill area, cutting out the metal between fan holes...that might just work. It reduces the conflict of visual lines (strong circles vs strong squares), but it will be a lot of work with everything already installed so I'm not jumping in until I have more feedback.
I'm still on the fence as to whether or not to cut a metal or acrylic cover for the ODD tray. That was the original intention but now that it's installed, leaving it open looks good in it's own way. Kinda like factory stock, or an iMac, which I like. LCD is dropped because I knew I'd never look at it again the day after it's installed.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2426/...ae39e4f6_o.jpg
Thanks Dangals, appreciate it. It certainly deserves mention that I learned many things from your worklog, too. I will keep the updates coming as the various last pieces fall into place. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Dangals
head wound... lol... nice one Kibbs! Some days it sure feels that way, that's fo shizzle. ;)
Ok, ok, I'm really liking that front grill area now... that's cash money right there which is the best kind! I know it means more work but IMHO, I think it looks great and will be worth the effort. I mean, look at all the effort you've already put into this fantastic creation! I'd even consider rounding off those circular transitions a touch... that will really help balance the two dominant shapes.
The Optical drive thing - I hear yeah there - no stealth door cover... roger that. Maybe just getting rid of the silk screened labels... I don't know - I'd even play around with some colors just for $hits & giggles... you never know and nothing ventured, nothing gained. :yepp: My issue with the current look is the perceived conflict between the two shapes - faceplate door cutout and drive door. I guess I just like seeing tight fits (ok, let's keep it clean) with things like that... the difference in the two, especially the sides is throwing me.
Kibbs, you rule man and hope I'm not coming on too strong here... It's your thing and if you're happy, I'm happy (if that makes sense). I don't want to mess with your mojo and have to say that I really enjoy seeing things that are purposefully created and well executed... and that you've achieved in spades my friend.
Looking forward to seeing where you take it. :)
Charles, for the grill, consider that seed of thought firmly planted (and occasionally watered). I pondered on the workflow required and it shouldn't be too difficult (hope I'm not jinxing myself here, cross your fingers). Remove panel, measure, measure, re-measure, cut, file, apply magic anodizing pen i.e. sharpie, reassemble. Should only take a couple hours, which naturally will translate to about 4-6 hours. If by the end of the workday I'm still comfortable with the idea, I'm hitting the dremel after dinner.
Like I said, your creative input is always welcome. :up:
Any other suggestions out there (for the grill or overall)?
The optical drive slot I'm not promising anything more than further consideration. I will likely leave it as-is, it's as what I'd envisioned all along. Colored acrylic cover maybe? I dunno...something to mull over. I'm open to ideas to tart up the top 1/3 of the faceplate a bit. Those three murdermod lines actually look kinda cool even though at first glance they looked like trickling blood or a mini velociraptor attack.
that looks great bro!
yes, cut that case to give the radgrills a cleaner outline/opening. with your cutting skills, it should be like 'stock'.
optical drive, colored acrylic. that was my plan b. but i couldn't get a clean cut to fit the opening. and i'm too proud to consider laser cutting. haha.
I'm really digging it man! My first instinct was to be a hyper-critical jerk and recommend that all your hex head bolts be either cap screws or machine screws but not both ... but I wouldn't do a thing like mention something as minor as that, especially with its hugely subjective posture. :D
in all seriousness though your pulling your MM away from being an MM and into becoming it's OWN case... if that makes any sense... I kind of see MM cases (well all cases) but MMs in particular as the blankest of pallets to begin, with room for infinite potential. You're doing wonderfully. :up:
1 month later...
Back from vacation!
Front and top panel cuts are done (filing took 3x longer than expected). After washing, "re-anodizing" and reassembly it looks just like the photochop on the previous page so there's no need for intermediate photos. Final photos are coming soon enough.
There's a new build brewing...favoring Westmere + 5870 (skipping Lynnfield, I tend to upgrade on the tick cycle) but lets see what nVidia has for DX11 first. I'm faithful to ASUS ROG so the next board will follow suit, ATX or mATX? Undecided. LiLi P50 + GTX360 to round out the package. Looking forward to it!
Thanks for looking.
Work and SF4 and RE5 and new iPhone means not a lot of progress recently.
Front USB ports are blacked out, sleeved, and installed.
man i wish i can make builds like you guys! :up:
Dude, this project is on-going huh? I like it... :)
Most other builds take a tenth of the time this one has taken. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by emoners
Yup, STILL on-going. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Neox69
:stick: Just checking back in for updates (don't ya just hate it when people do that).
Kibbler is my hero. Now I'm kinda afraid to put pictures of mine up once I get started because mine will look like poo...
love your work :up:
what type/size screws your using in the top radgrill ?
And...sorry, this is not exactly the update you're looking for. :ROTF:Quote:
Originally Posted by shazza
Pinnacle300 is 2 steps from being totally complete in my book: Soldering power/reset switches and drive eject switch...I hate soldering and I've been putting it off past all other tasks. I promise, I'll have the photos up soon.
For the next build...
I removed the GTX360 just before placing the order because I realized Sidewinder has it for $30 less, for that difference I'll gladly wait until Gary has it back in stock. Case will be purchased locally to avoid postage-rape.
http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/2061/ppcs.jpg
http://img82.imageshack.us/img82/7742/59790955.jpg
Thanks ohms, please do upload your pictures. No matter what you think it looks like there's always something to be gained from them. Either others get to learn something from looking at them, or you get to learn something from the comments others make. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by ohms
Oh I replied to your PM. Take a look.
Thanks quattro. Those are 6-32x3/8" socket caps with a #6 washer. The MM panel holes are too big to be fully covered by the socket caps alone, which is what the washers are for.Quote:
Originally Posted by quattro_
thanks, just want to add that your build is the reason i finally ordered my Pinnacle-24.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kibbler
Are you kidding, shopping is my favorite part of all this stuff :up:Quote:
And...sorry, this is not exactly the update you're looking for.
Of course, I can't wait to see more pics, and delighted to see a second build progressing to the shopping cart stage!
Great to hear, good luck with it!Quote:
Originally Posted by quattro_
Sucks that GTX360 seems to be out of stock everywhere, or at least the places that will ship overseas.:mad: Anyone know whats up? I'm gonna have to check if SW will get them in soon and if not within a week or two then I better get one from PPCs before they're gone, too.Quote:
Originally Posted by shazza
Now I'm worried if the case I want is still in stock as well...gotta make some calls.
=-=- edited = ooops out of stuck :( -=-=
get it form DD store :
http://www.dangerden.com/store/black-ice-gtx360.html
they ship WW and have very good costumer service :)
any updates Kibbs? :)
yay for me (not going into this build though...)
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3518/...fcfe6690_b.jpg
good looking block..love the black mounting screw by swiftech, too bad its not sell separately..
what do you mean that your not going into this build again kibbler ? new build ?...
keep the update kibbler..
Yes, new build. Still working on specs. The case and watercooling parts I've already decided but I'm on the fence on the other bits, e.g. Lynnfield or Gulftown etc etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by anubis_is_evil
464 days since the first post of this worklog, and I can call it, "done."
Of course, nothing is ever "done." Given endless time and resources a thing can be improved upon over and over again, always getting closer to perfection but never reaching it. Thus "done" is a merely mental switch that allows one to redirect their energies towards other endeavors.
For me, due to a combination of vacation, work, and other involvements requiring my attention, the "done" for this worklog already occurred about a month ago. But it couldn't be said to be physically "done" until tonight, the last loose ends tied up. It's not to say I didn't put my full effort into it, quite the contrary. It simply means I let things drag for too long.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2579/...414b2eb9_b.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2539/...2411e010_b.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3528/...fcd89f39_b.jpg
(Protip: Don't run the computer side-panel-less for more than a month before taking so-called "finale" photos. It will take your entire evening to clean it all out.)
So what's the next big thing? Well I already have a few parts on hand: A new Swifty XT, Koolance res, 2 HWL rads on the way, and I'm picking up the case tomorrow. same pattern. The ideas are rolling, the energy building up.
Thank you all for your interest and comments, I hope you will check out my next one, too. :)
Congratulations on a job well done Kibbs! :up:
Really nice work M8.
Looking forward to your next project. :)
Nice work mate, good to see it finally finished! :)
It was a long journey but well wirth it Kibb. Hope you've have enjoyed and learned from it :) Because that's what this whole community is all about:up:
awesome job bro. and i'll surely take note of your pro-tip (running bare-sided). haha. thanks!
looking forward to the next project. :up:
Definitely the nicest Pinnacle I've seen. Congrats on a great project, Kibbler.
Waiting for the start of the new one - I see you are keeping us in suspense on the case :)
Thanks Charles for your kind words!Quote:
Originally Posted by charles_h
Thanks Tom, believe me I should be the happiest to finally see it finished!Quote:
Originally Posted by twwen2
Think you hit the nail on the head there, it was definitely an enjoyable learning experience.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lagaaja
Lol, thanks bro. Another protip just for you: Singapore is a dusty/noisy place. Use good filters, DIY if you must, and any fan you buy take 15db off the rating. That's how it'll sound here. :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by bianco
Thanks Shazza, you've been very supportive throughout this project and I appreciate that. Personally I think evil98 was the first with a clean Pinnacle, and there are a few more in progress that I'm sure will outshine mine in scope and quality.Quote:
Originally Posted by shazza
New case? Oh it's no mystery :), actually I mentioned it on the previous page. LiLi P50 with, to paraphrase justin.kerr, "menstrual red" anodized internals.
http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/3...8100817882.jpg
*not my photo obvi
I was miffed about the AMD logo on the window but since it'll probably have 5870-inside then that's no biggie. More to come once I've made enough progress for the new worklog.
:)
:up: just amazing man ....
and good luck with your next build .
Oh, I love the front panel :clap:
Ahh... missed the case mention before. That looks like a fun case to work with.
And ... no disrespect intended to the other Pinnacle builds, just that I really like what you did with the front panel, and the orange and blue is something we don't see every day :)
Love it kibbler, and as you can tell from my post count in this log I have loved your work all along :D its a tough case to work with because its so open, but I bet you could look at that thing with X-ray vision and it would still be perfect :up:
one thing I would adjust is just drop the PCIE power behind that orange tube, but obviously that's a matter of opinion.
Came out fantastic, Kibbs! Been an admirer of your work.
From your mounting res design to your sick drain setup, it all came out amazing at the end. :up: I'm looking out for your next build!
Thanks quattro :)Quote:
Originally Posted by quattro_
Thanks, I'm quite happy with how that turned out. There was some drama involved in the USB ports...namely I damaged the one I had on hand, then I went out and bought a spare...turns out the dimensions are different! (screws too close together for the holes I drilled)...angry...more work than I expected but anyway looks ok in the end.Quote:
Originally Posted by aol000xw
First impressions of that case (this belongs in the new worklog but whatever), the ALU is thinner than I expected, and since this is the first time I'm working on a LiLi I don't know if it's the same across their product line. The fit and finish is awesome (seriously awesome like whoa) but after working with MM the panel thickness was slightly disappointing.Quote:
Originally Posted by shazza
Thanks SD, very much appreciate your support. The openess is good and bad. Bad you already mentioned, good in that it forces you to pay extra attention to details: Cable tidyness, heatshrink and sleeving, etc because nothing can be hidden. For the PCIE cable I agree, it would look nicer if it didn't overshadow the tubing arrangement like that. But that's following the natural curve of the cable and the only alternative would be to crimp a 4~5ft cable to go behind then back out from the motherboard tray.Quote:
Originally Posted by SNiiPE_DoGG
Thanks for your kind words, but all eyes including mine are on you and your MM now!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by CptDreadFlint
===
One of the pumps will be coming out this weekend and going into the new build so before I do that I'll have a chance to take a few more photos.
nice work man! :up: i love the front panel
Thanks ridney :)Quote:
Originally Posted by ridney
***
I took a few more photos before undertaking the 60min double bypass operation (convert double to single serial loop).
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2436/...8ab01cc0_b.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2546/...b3621a5e_b.jpg
This last one's for the benefit of those who asked about the front panel, and any other MM owners out there who might be interested. You can just barely see the original drive bay piece which is mounted to the inside of the case. Like I mentioned previously, the holes on that piece were widened to fit around the threaded inserts, then all 3 "layers" (stealth plate + front panel + original drive bay piece) are sandwiched together with socket screws, washers, and nuts.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2448/...63df26f1_b.jpg
Looks great...
I wonder it's appearance in a night shot...
Nice, clean build Kibbler. The orange and blue is nice.
You truly have skills Kibbler.
i just noticed 1 small thing. i dont know if it makes much of a difference, but as far as i can see the 3 fans on the front rad is pulling air into the case. And the 3 fans on the top rad is exhausting air. So is the psu and the top rear fan... AND the bottom rear fan.
Wouldnt it might be better to turn around the bottom rear fan so it blows air into the case instead? then you have 4 inntake fans and 4+psu exhaust fans, seemes more balanced to me, might get som fresh air on the MB too....
Finally I have gotten to the end of 16 pages, however it was well worth it.
Congratulation Kibbler on an outstanding build, you have pushed the quality of this case to new hights.
Favorite parts would be the drainage system and also how you routed your tubing with the help of that bracket that you made to fit to the bottom of the top rad.
It helped to make the perfict line and lenght for your tubing.
Over all your wire management was second to none, very clean and professional.
Looking forward to watching your next build as it unrolls.
Well done.
Thanks emir, here's a night shot...:p:Quote:
Originally Posted by emir
http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/4271/nightvw.jpg
j/k but seriously, the only thing lit up on the outside is the DVD eject button, so that's basically what it would look like. The next build will have a fair bit more lighting, though.
Thanks Xion, I agree I much prefer the orange and blue to the original orange and green. Looking forward to more metalworking updates in your build!Quote:
Originally Posted by Xion X2
Thanks eXa, you make a good point. I'm not concerned about balancing the airflow because 1) some negative pressure helps the front intake, and 2) I absolutely hate dust. Seriously. Right now I have a (new) fine-mesh laundry net stretched across the intake like a surgeon's mask as a dust filter, no you probably wouldn't want to see it because it's ugly as butt. A freakishly ugly butt at that. It's easy to do that with just one intake area. Oh and there's no fan behind the PSU, only 3 HDDs on that fan mount.Quote:
Originally Posted by eXa
Thanks kgtiger, appreciate your kind words. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by kgtiger
I've collected some parts for the next build already. Case is here, rads are here, block is here, res is here. One thing that's holding me back is I'm still setting up a white infinity-sweep background and the lighting required to take batter photos. I hope to have it ready to go soon enough.
Wow, batter photos, are they crispy on the outside, if so I will take the family portrait size.:rofl:
Any idea as to when you will start this next build
http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/9478/fishbatter.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by kgtiger
:D
end of this month probably.
:ROTF:
Love the clean, simple elegance of the night shot. Understated yet penetrating...
Wow... just wow... (puts dremel and various computer parts in storage forever)
I just finished reading through the whole work log. The cable routing is clean, sleeving is amazing, cooling system is routed very well. The front panel... oh man that front panel... I think I just lost the will to mod...
All comments of self-pity aside, I'm now seriously thinking about getting an MM case to replace my PC-V1000Z. I think your case should be used for advertising on their site.
Very nice job!
-TadZilla
That's what she said.Quote:
Originally Posted by charles_h
Excellent looking project. The blue and orange tubing go great together. Fantastic photos as well.
There are a lot of fantastic looking projects on this forum but it always amazes me how none of the photos show any dust, animal hair etc. My PC is just full of dust which reminds me I will have to get the hoover out LOL.
Combination of hand blower (alright alright innuendos aside...;)) and strategic lighting. My cat is black and white and if you don't know what that means...it means the white part of her coat shows up on black things, and vice versa. And she is a furry little mess.Quote:
Originally Posted by Red-5
For me, glamour shots are exactly that and nothing more. The whole thing is cleaned up, wiped down, and dusted etc. for the cleanest possible photos. In operation, believe me that black box is sealed up tight and filtered. Like I said the front inlets are filtered and looks like my computer is wearing a surgeon's mask, if a surgeon had a...big...black aluminum...um, box(?)...for a head?
Whoa ok self step away from the drugs please.
Side note: I inspected the loops a while back and found that the tubing and some of the fittings had collected a very thin milky-white coating on the coolant side, most notably on the inside of the stop fittings at the end of the drains. This was after about 3 months of daily use. Might be plasticizer? Or I didn't flush the rads thoroughly enough? The next time I take apart the loops (probably to scavenge any connectors for the next build as necessary), I'll inspect the blocks and see if there's anything funky inside.
If the coating is not just on the tubing, and is around the fittings, etc., I'd bet it's radiator flux. Probably just took it a while to work it's way out and into the loop. If so, you probably have some build up in your blocks as well - but maybe not enough to impact flow if your temps are still okay.
That's good to know and if so I'm not terribly worried about it, should be water-soluble now and forever yeah? I'm not planning to re-use these blocks immediately anyway, and since the new build will use 3/8-5/8 the comp fittings will eventually be retired as well. Biggest change in temps so far was going from 2x to 1x loops, and even then I only saw 1~2c increase in coolant temps.
An absolute beaty of a build. Great work man!