Testing / comparing : Intel D975XBX2 / Asus P5B DX ***56K WARNING***

Well my psu only came with the single 4 pin cpu power plugs but the board needs the 8 pin cable so i too had to use the adapter. What psu comes with a built in 8 pin cable? I am overclocking as well and didnt realize this. How many of you in here are overclocking using the adapter cable and if not then which psu do you use that has an 8 pin cable built in? The ocz gamexstream only has two 4 pin cables so an adapter is required with them. If this means that i cant o/c then i might have to rma this psu. So far im stable at 3.2ghz myself but i dont want this thing to burst into flames. :) Ive never seen or heard of such a thing in my life where they tell you not to use an adapter with certain cpus. This is kludgey.

I think if you have a very low quality psu, the board draws more power from the 4 pin connector than it's me(a?)nt for. I suppose most of the better psu's can handle the extra load without a problem because of thicker cables than necessary.

personally i have an OCZ gamestream 700W, it has 2 2x2 12V CPU power connectors that can snuggle in the 2x4 plug on the board.

You plugged both those cables into that slot and it worked?

yes, they are meant for that purpose. technically, one cable can supply all the power the CPU needs to run, overclocked even, but for more stable supply and better handling of load situations you use 2. Intel just wants you to use 2 if you plan on overclocking.

Yep got it ;) That little tidbit wasnt in the ocz manual but i went to their site and it is listed there. The cables only fit one way too but it worked. Thanks for the heads up!

Now for another question for anyone: When overclocking, my machine keeps randomly making that usb detection sound and freezing my machine for 2 or 3 seconds at a time and then goes away. Its just like somebody is plugging in a new usb device and it effectively makes fps games difficult due to the random freezes. I upped my mch/ich voltage by a notch but i am not sure if that will fix it. I am at 3.2ghz now but it does it at 3.1ghz as well. It just started doing it tonight. Orthos and memtest are stable for an hour which is all i tested. superpi wont run on ANY of my machines so i cant rely on it. Any ideas?

I just setup my BX2 and love it, where do you find the Intel windows utility?
Thanks.

This board is awesome and incredibely stable. It will only improve with bios updates :)

http://support.intel.com/design/motherbd/software/idu/

edit : btw, anyone stable @ 450+ fsb (prime) ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Supertim0r

This board is awesome and incredibely stable. It will only improve with bios updates :)

http://support.intel.com/design/motherbd/software/idu/

edit : btw, anyone stable @ 450+ fsb (prime) ?

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Thanks:) This is like a breath of fresh air for me, I went through 3 680i boards with bsod's one after another.

I have not even updated the bios yet on this board and your right it is stable as hell:eek: I had to give up my SLI but it was worth it:fact:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by palese

Thanks:) This is like a breath of fresh air for me, I went through 3 680i boards with bsod's one after another.

I have not even updated the bios yet on this board and your right it is stable as hell:eek: I had to give up my SLI but it was worth it:fact:

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maybe we will have sli hacked drivers soon ? :p:

how is it clocking so far ?

I'm slowly working my way up between work and girlfriend. Only up to 11x320 right now. I have to leave my computer when I fly west to see my parents, but i'll be back to fuss with it before new years.

Can anyone else run without 2x2 to 2x4 adapter? (4 to 8 pin) My board won't boot without. (IE: only use 4 pin results in no boot)

[Edit] Btw, the Zalman CNPS7700Cu doesn't fit on the bad axe 2. The heatsink does fit, but the backplate doesn't fit on the back of the mobo beacause of some solderpoints. I don't know how strong the backplate will be when you cut some plastic away.

if you aren't going to overclock this board, then use the adapter. If you are, then either go get a new power supply, or be prepared to see some less then stellar results while using the adapter.

As for the Zalman, i have a 9500AT on mine and i think the backplate is the same. hehe, maybe i'm crushing some solder points into plastic.:p:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Supertim0r

maybe we will have sli hacked drivers soon ? :p:

how is it clocking so far ?

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Still finding my way around the bios for now:)

Also is Intel TAT a reliable program for temp?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by palese

Still finding my way around the bios for now:)

Also is Intel TAT a reliable program for temp?

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yes, I also use core temp and Intel(R) Desktop Utilities

Unfortunately, IDU doesn't work on Vista. This is a great board and very fast. Stable as hell as well.... :toast:

Hey guys, just got my BX2 / QX6700 machine put together and had a few questions I had hoped you guys could me out with. First off, I installed the Intel Desktop Control Center and have set a new performance profile up with the default multiplier raised from 10 to 13 giving me about 3450Mhz. Everything seems dual Orthos stable and I was thinking about pushing it to 14 times to see how far it can go to find the limitations of the chip. Just wondering what happens if you have a failed boot because of too high of an overclock. I am not too sure how the software works; does it load upon Windows or does it modify your boards BIOS and actually boot / post at your set speed?

Just wondering how one goes about recovering a failed overclock when using this utility. I know there is the "config" jumper to reset your BIOS settings, but I am not too sure when windows loads if it is still going to still try and apply your last set performance profile upon boot.

Ordered, can't wait :toast:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Blauhung

if you aren't going to overclock this board, then use the adapter. If you are, then either go get a new power supply, or be prepared to see some less then stellar results while using the adapter.

As for the Zalman, i have a 9500AT on mine and i think the backplate is the same. hehe, maybe i'm crushing some solder points into plastic.:p:

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I currently use the 4 pin to 8 pin adapter on my BX2 using a PC Power and Cooling Turbo Cool 510 PSU and run at 438x8 with no problems at all.

Which is giving the accurate temp reading: TAT, core temp or IDU? TAT gives me 40C idle, core temp gives me 38C idle and IDU gives me 48C idle. At this point i dont know what my real idle temp is and there is quite a bit of discrepancy between those readings. I'm at 3.2ghz now with my e6600 and am going to leave it there because im pushing 62C in TAT under orthos. Games never take me over 55C though, but IDU always shows me near 70 or higher under orthos load and around 61C when gaming. Id like to believe that core temp or TAT are giving me the real numbers but im not sure. I was hoping this big typhoon vx and AS5 combo would allow me to push higher but it doesnt look like it so far. I could have probably gotten this level of o/c on stock cooling.

Btw to the guy that asked about super talent ram and this board, i am using the super talent 800mhz 4x4x3x8 sticks at 4x4x4x12 timings at 893mhz 4:5. I couldnt pass memtest at 893mhz with the 4x4x3x8 timings at 2.2 volts although bumping the voltage to 2.28 allowed me to run memtest stable. I opted to just loosen the timings a bit and keep the stock voltage. The ram seems to run very well so far and has far exceeded its rated speeds. Im sure i could get 1000mhz out of it at 5x5x5x15.

Which version of IDU is everyone using?? I'm using the Version 3.0.6.10 and it won't initialize. I'm also using the latest bios and it still won't work.

I am using the most current IDCC instead of the IDU. I also use coretemp and TAT. TAT and coretemp agree perfectly on my rig, ie they report the same thing.

I formatted my drive that was going to receive my OS and did a fresh install of windows when I changed my mobo. I have all my software and BIOS current.

On a side note, I am using all the power connectors on my board. I have two separate lines from my PSU I plugged into the 8 pin connector. They read CPU1 and CPU2, so it seemed to be a no brainer.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by malficar

I am using the most current IDCC instead of the IDU. I also use coretemp and TAT. TAT and coretemp agree perfectly on my rig, ie they report the same thing.

I formatted my drive that was going to receive my OS and did a fresh install of windows when I changed my mobo. I have all my software and BIOS current.

On a side note, I am using all the power connectors on my board. I have two separate lines from my PSU I plugged into the 8 pin connector. They read CPU1 and CPU2, so it seemed to be a no brainer.

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That's what's not initializing properly, the IDCC. I however did not reinstall windows which I probably should have. I was using an Intel chipset on my last build and haven't had any problems other than this one application. TAT and Coretemp work fine as well as the IDU. Weird huh??

This may sound really strange, but the only way I could get the IDCC to initialize was to set my WinXP theme to the default theme. When I was setting up and installing everything last night, IDCC was working fine until I changed my theme to the old NT4.0 looking classic skin. After doing this, IDCC refused to load, giving me a python22.dll error when trying to load. After changing things backs to the default theme, it now loads properly again.

Just to make sure this was indeed causing the problem on machine, I set things back to the Classic appearance theme, and woila, it gave me the python22.dll error again and refused to load.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by malachi1313

That's what's not initializing properly, the IDCC. I however did not reinstall windows which I probably should have. I was using an Intel chipset on my last build and haven't had any problems other than this one application. TAT and Coretemp work fine as well as the IDU. Weird huh??

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I just tried the IDU with the IDCC and got very odd behavior so I removed the IDU. Opening add/remove programs would actually crash my rig. I turned off the IDU tray that loads with windows via msconfig.exe and was able to remove the program then. I booted into safe mode and removed them both then put back the IDCC. So there seems to be something going on when you have both on your rig. Or at least I had serious issues trying to use both. I couldn't get the IDCC to initialize at all with the IDU installed as well. I didn't even get a warning. The IDU would work fine, as does TAT.

Occasionally the IDCC will fail to intialize on my rig and that is very rare. A reboot fixes it. I should note I also have nTune on my system which is known to be buggy at times.

I suppose for now you may wish to try using one or the other, the IDU or the IDCC. Later when I am bored :p: I will try the IDU + the IDCC without nTune on my system, for now I am off to game.

EDIT: I installed the IDU again after I removed nTune and they all work fine together now. Perhaps try removing both of yours and install the IDCC first, then the IDU. I am now going to install nTune again and see it things remain ok.

Interesting idea, loafer, but even cycling through all the themes didn't let IDCC initialize.

Not sure what the problem is. I installed fresh XP Pro onto 975XBX2, e6600, version 2333 bios, latest IDCC (tonight) from Intel.

Just doesn't want to initialize. :(

The Gunny

may i know how much did u guys bought this board? and any of u manage to use p5w dh deluxe to compare with this board?

I'm getting beeps from the board while playing a game, it comes about 20min or so into the game, any ideas?:confused:

Ok I've got the IDU, the IDCC, TAT and nTune all on my system running fine now. :toast:

Here are some ideas. Uninstall all of them from your system, save TAT. Install the IDCC first, then IDU, then nTune, uncheck "the stability test" as part of nTune to install. Reboot after installing each one. Installing them in that manner I can now load any or all as I please.

If you are still having problems try setting your ram to very tame settings, and your CPU to stock speed and see if they still do not load or function oddly. It is possible for too aggressive timings to hang a system.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by irenic

may i know how much did u guys bought this board? and any of u manage to use p5w dh deluxe to compare with this board?

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It cost me 259usd, and I bought the one with the three year warranty, not the "bulk" board. It is the most stable and fast i975x board I have tried. I have used a first rev P5W DH Deluxe and an Abit AW9D-Max. I like the Abit AW9D-Max better than the P5W.

I had trouble running DDR 1000 stable on the Abit board, it would constantly crash, not so on the BX2. The best tRFC I could use on the Abit board was 21, 20 would crash or freeze my system, on the BX2 it's 14. Both my DVD drives behave better on this board. They would spin up and down and behave erratic on the P5W, and Abit AW9D-Max. My onboard NIC has yet to drop my connection. I was always having that problem with the P5W and off and on with the Abit AW9D-Max.

I think this is a great board for an E6600 and up. If you are looking for a high speed memory board to max out an E6300 I'd try an Asus P5B deluxe or possibly a 680i board. I say possibly for the 680i because I haven't had any direct experience with them. I would love to see someone try an E6300 in this board though as it can set a frequency up to 500. Naturally, I can't test that on air @ a 9x multi with an E6600. My CPU needs way too much voltage to do 3.8GHz and my air cooler just isn't up to the task.

With the BX2, the best way to find your system max is to set a tame OC in the BIOS and save, then ramp up progressively with the IDCC under windows. Use memset to fine tune your ram beyond what the IDCC offers. Any mistake or freeze may be corrected by turning off the system via the PSU for ten seconds which will restore that base OC in the BIOS when you power back up. That way you avoid playing with the configuration jumper on the board entirely.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Supertim0r

also, try stock vfsb and vmch

have you tried the cpu with other mobo already ? (not all cpu reach 3.6+)

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Did 6hrs of dual orthos stable yesterday. Vcore@1.475, vfsb and vmch stock.

I was really :eek2: when i saw the vdrop on IDU hardware monitor. But, is it acurate? I mean, is it the same value if we measure directly from the board?

I use IDU, IDCC and Ntune and they all work fine for me.

Anyone with any ideas on why IDU and IDCC give me 8C higher a reading on temps than TAT or core temp and which one is more accurate? I let the computer run overnight and when i woke up the idle temp was down to 35C which is 5C less than what it has been. Maybe the AS5 is starting to work its magic? I have heard this stuff takes a week to kick in so maybe i might be seeing some high 30's idle temps now which is where i want to be.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by astrodave

Anyone with any ideas on why IDU and IDCC give me 8C higher a reading on temps than TAT or core temp and which one is more accurate? I let the computer run overnight and when i woke up the idle temp was down to 35C which is 5C less than what it has been. Maybe the AS5 is starting to work its magic? I have heard this stuff takes a week to kick in so maybe i might be seeing some high 30's idle temps now which is where i want to be.

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IDU and core temp shows the same temp for me.
With P5W DH, my e6600@3.6 did 32C at iddle and now i have 42C@3.6ghz.
Haven't noticed any diference runing for 2 months with AS5. Temps from the 1st day, until the last week were the same.

Great thread you guys !
I'm pretty much convinced this is still the killer 975X based mobo atm. Down here in Australia, can get it for around A$300, I need a change from my Asus P965 based mobo...
I had the MSI 975X and then the Giga DQ6.... but I'm think'in this later revision of this board looks to have the goods...:)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by malficar

Here are some ideas. Uninstall all of them from your system, save TAT. Install the IDCC first, then IDU, then nTune, uncheck "the stability test" as part of nTune to install. Reboot after installing each one. Installing them in that manner I can now load any or all as I please.

If you are still having problems try setting your ram to very tame settings, and your CPU to stock speed and see if they still do not load or function oddly. It is possible for too aggressive timings to hang a system.

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I took it all the way down, except for the reinstalls. All the way back to 266 fsb and memory to 533, 5-5-5-18. No joy.

I'll take it back down again and try the reinstalls......

Thanks, Malficar.

The Gunny

Is Intel D975XBX2 good for a QX6700? And is it good to go for SLI?

Strange that IDU and IDCC vs core temp and TAT give such drastic differences for me. Its like 2 of the programs measure one temp and the other 2 measure another. I wish i knew for sure which one was the accurate cpu internal temp. If its the higher temp then i probably need to reseat and reAS5 the HSF/cpu.

guys, what is IDCC ? i just bought this board at RM900 (malaysia's currency) which is equivalent to $243. :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by irenic

guys, what is IDCC ? i just bought this board at RM900 (malaysia's currency) which is equivalent to $243. :D

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Intel Desktop Control Center. It is basically intel's version of ntune except that IDCC actually works and isn't filled with bugs. It allows you to tweak the BIOS of the board in windows as well as raise or lower header fan speeds, etc.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ashraful

Is Intel D975XBX2 good for a QX6700? And is it good to go for SLI?

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Is excellent for QX6700 and no support for SLI. There may be a hacked driver otw for it but it wouldnt be officially supported at any time and would only be an x16 - x8 PCIE setup anyway as this board does not have two X16 slots.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by irenic

may i know how much did u guys bought this board? and any of u manage to use p5w dh deluxe to compare with this board?

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I paid $239 USD at newegg last week.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by astrodave

Is excellent for QX6700 and no support for SLI. There may be a hacked driver otw for it but it wouldnt be officially supported at any time and would only be an x16 - x8 PCIE setup anyway as this board does not have two X16 slots.

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That is what I need to know. Thanks! :toast:

I forgot to ask :D

What is TAT? :confused:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by astrodave

Intel Desktop Control Center. It is basically intel's version of ntune except that IDCC actually works and isn't filled with bugs. It allows you to tweak the BIOS of the board in windows as well as raise or lower header fan speeds, etc.

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As long as it not a 64 bit o.s......:rolleyes:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JZX100

I forgot to ask :D

What is TAT? :confused:

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Intel Thermal Analysis Tool. You can download it from Intel's site.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by irenic

may i know how much did u guys bought this board? and any of u manage to use p5w dh deluxe to compare with this board?

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way more stable then my P5W was, i could never get the memory to operate beyond 1k.

anyone still seeing the BIOS randomly hang/freeze?

i bought the board for 367$ CAD including shipping and taxes, it is pretty expensive but it was the only place in stock (tigerdirect.ca)

No vdroop for me, enanced power slope enabled. 6600 L631B @ 3750mhz 1.45vcore. cannot go higher then 1.45vcore with reasonable temp, can do 1.5v at 3.85ghz but over 72c load temp. Its swill a work in progress, ram is not maxed out, but i logged all my overclocking process and will probably do a report after chrismas.

Problems i had with the board so far:

When i plugged the floppy drive, the board gave me 3 Beeep and wouldnt boot,I decided to flash bios "from windows" but the process of flashing is still done in Dos while booting, Flashing process was a bit scary, got a black screen for like 30 seconds, the board rebooted, windows booted and i got a nice pop up screen saying Bios Update Sucessful !

Intel desktop utilities wouldnt work... uninstalled TAT and speedfan but still no chances. Even at stock speed so i dont think the overclock is the cause of this.

No fan monitoring/controlling in bios or software. My panaflow are driving me nuts.

When overclocking, the board can take up to 15-20 seconds to Post, it can let you think that it is not booting and you waste your time with the jumper


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Other thoughts

There is still not enough memory option in bios but at the same time it can be handfull for not bothering with alot of option for beginners.

My bios never froze but was really sluggish sometimes, i was not able to find the cause of this but somewhat fixed itself.

Vmch and Vfsb are neat, the Auto settings on other boards can be confusing because you dont really know how much is Auto. When you boot it gives you stock voltage and you know it because its pre-selected in bios. I love that.

Board layout is great, no badly placed capacitor blocking the backplate for heatsink, no clearance problem with my thermalright ultra-120. But i hate those pci-e retention clips, it is useless and make it really hard to remove your video card if you have a big one or SLI...

The onboard power button is still oddly placed, it ok my 7950GX2, a longer card like a 7900GX2 or maybe a 8800GTX would make this button hardly reachable i think.

Ive had my bad axe 2 for a couple weeks now and have an e6600 stably OC'd to 3.0 @ 55C load (air cooling). My v-core voltage is 1.375, and my FSB & MCH is default. I have the EPS turned off. I know I could go a lot higher but im satisfied with 3.0. My bios has locked up a couple times, and it seemed like it was only when I messed with the memory settings. My IDCC worked before I started OC'ing but now it wont load. I tried to reinstall it and it loaded after the reinstall but wasnt "active". I shut it down and now it wont reload again. It really sucks because when its working right its a really useful program. Ive been building pc's for many years but Im pretty new to OC'ing. That being said, all in all this board is great. I only had to clear cmos one time during the whole process. Hope this helps someone.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by chaotic646

Ive had my bad axe 2 for a couple weeks now and have an e6600 stably OC'd to 3.0 @ 55C load (air cooling). My v-core voltage is 1.875, and my FSB & MCH is default. I have the EPS turned off. I know I could go a lot higher but im satisfied with 3.0. My bios has locked up a couple times, and it seemed like it was only when I messed with the memory settings. My IDCC worked before I started OC'ing but now it wont load. I tried to reinstall it and it loaded after the reinstall but wasnt "active". I shut it down and now it wont reload again. It really sucks because when its working right its a really useful program. Ive been building pc's for many years but Im pretty new to OC'ing. That being said, all in all this board is great. I only had to clear cmos one time during the whole process. Hope this helps someone.

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vcore 1.875V at 3GHz? this must not be real

Quote:

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Originally Posted by chaotic646

Ive had my bad axe 2 for a couple weeks now and have an e6600 stably OC'd to 3.0 @ 55C load (air cooling). My v-core voltage is 1.875, and my FSB & MCH is default.

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1.875 ? you are sure? the board is max 1.600v

my bad - 1.375...I beleive...what ever one step down from 1.4 is...maybe it was 1.385...

1.375 for 3.6ghz is a pretty good chip!

3.0 not 3.6. I could probably go a little higher but Im satisfied at 3.0.

As for the BIOS hang, i was able to talk to tech support and they need me to look at the bottom right corner of the screen to see if any error codes are reported there. If anyone sees this happen remember to check that so they can help troubleshoot it with you.

I get little 2-letter codes that flash at the bottom left corner of the screen everytime I boot up. Is that what you're talking about?

yeah, apparently it functions as bios error codes as well.

Yeah i get those as well but i think mine are on the bottom right side. No fan control in the bios is also a nitpick of mine but at least my idcc works so i can do it there, although that has to be done after every reboot. I'm going to do some final stress testing tonight before i go to bed to see if 3.2ghz is stable enough to keep. It sure runs like a bat out of hell though :)

Can anyone shed some light on why I would get a beeping sound from the board while playing a game? The beep comes intermittent, It does not happen in windows.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by palese

Can anyone shed some light on why I would get a beeping sound from the board while playing a game? The beep comes intermittent, It does not happen in windows.

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From the Product Spec:
Memory Error - Three Long Beeps, 1280 Hz
Thermal Warning - Four alternating beeps high/low, high tone=2kHz, low tone=1.6kHz.
Not sure if these apply after post..

IDU/IDCC running ?
It could be a monitoring alarm from IDU or IDCC

Thanks you guys, I'm going to turn off all alarms and test it:) the ram is extremely cooled so that should be OK.

My ram requires 2.4V now on the 680i bios the memory volt selection showed 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4 and so on, now on the bios for this board it shows 2.40V is this the same as 2.4V

Sorry i'm still learning:confused:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shogo_ca

i bought the board for 367$ CAD including shipping and taxes, it is pretty expensive but it was the only place in stock (tigerdirect.ca)

No vdroop for me, enanced power slope enabled. 6600 L631B @ 3750mhz 1.45vcore. cannot go higher then 1.45vcore with reasonable temp, can do 1.5v at 3.85ghz but over 72c load temp. Its swill a work in progress, ram is not maxed out, but i logged all my overclocking process and will probably do a report after chrismas.

Problems i had with the board so far:

When i plugged the floppy drive, the board gave me 3 Beeep and wouldnt boot,I decided to flash bios "from windows" but the process of flashing is still done in Dos while booting, Flashing process was a bit scary, got a black screen for like 30 seconds, the board rebooted, windows booted and i got a nice pop up screen saying Bios Update Sucessful !

Intel desktop utilities wouldnt work... uninstalled TAT and speedfan but still no chances. Even at stock speed so i dont think the overclock is the cause of this.

No fan monitoring/controlling in bios or software. My panaflow are driving me nuts.

When overclocking, the board can take up to 15-20 seconds to Post, it can let you think that it is not booting and you waste your time with the jumper


--------------------------------
Other thoughts

There is still not enough memory option in bios but at the same time it can be handfull for not bothering with alot of option for beginners.

My bios never froze but was really sluggish sometimes, i was not able to find the cause of this but somewhat fixed itself.

Vmch and Vfsb are neat, the Auto settings on other boards can be confusing because you dont really know how much is Auto. When you boot it gives you stock voltage and you know it because its pre-selected in bios. I love that.

Board layout is great, no badly placed capacitor blocking the backplate for heatsink, no clearance problem with my thermalright ultra-120. But i hate those pci-e retention clips, it is useless and make it really hard to remove your video card if you have a big one or SLI...

The onboard power button is still oddly placed, it ok my 7950GX2, a longer card like a 7900GX2 or maybe a 8800GTX would make this button hardly reachable i think.

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I can get TAT and coretemp to work but its a no go for IDCC or IDU:(

right now i'm running my first test of orthos blend test on this board. my proc can do 3.2ghz 24hrs stable @ stock voltage, 1.3vfsb and 1.65vmch with asus p5w DH dlx.

btw, my IDCC cant load .. :(

Quote:

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Originally Posted by malachi1313

I can get TAT and coretemp to work but its a no go for IDCC or IDU:(

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I can only get IDCC to load if I don't start coretemp, cpuz, tat, etc. If any of these have run even once, IDCC will fail to load. If I start one of these while IDCC is running, IDCC will freeze. So basically, I use IDCC right after a boot to slow the fans down, then stop it and use the other guys to continue testing.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gtj

I can only get IDCC to load if I don't start coretemp, cpuz, tat, etc. If any of these have run even once, IDCC will fail to load. If I start one of these while IDCC is running, IDCC will freeze. So basically, I use IDCC right after a boot to slow the fans down, then stop it and use the other guys to continue testing.

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Thats weird, i use all of those myself and at times all at the same time with no problems at all. I'm at 3.2ghz at 1.375v and I ran orthos for 5 hours tonight stable before i stopped it to play some TDU. My idle temps have also dropped 3 degrees since last week so it looks like the as5 is finally curing. Im idle now at 38. Still in the low 60's during an orthos load, but in games its low to mid 50's. I could probably push on to 3.4 or 3.6 but whats the point as all my games run smokin' as it is.

Has anyone ran a Xeon 3060 on this board yet, I looked at the Intel cpu compatable list and no xeon's listed:eek:

The Xeon works quite fine. :p:
Currently running @ 3.2 GHZ still on default volts. I will push for more once I have some spare time......:D

Thanks Only:) Well my beep problem turned out to be my PSU :eek: I guess its not compatible with this board, the PSU has beep codes and I forgot about them, the code said I was not running enough devices for it :eek: It said it fell under a certain amp requirement :eek:

Any ideas for a good PSU replacement?

I love mine....:)

The only thing that has me worried about with this board is the limited 1.6vcore, yet on the other side they have 2.8vdimm ?
Sounds rather out of balance don't you all think ?

I got DDR2 1000 @ 3.6GHz 4-4-4-4 going on this board and it's dead even with DDR2 800 @ 3-3-3-4 in performance. At least as far as Pi1m goes. I'm on the default strap.

1000 @ 4-4-4-4
http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/8...bx2cag7.th.jpg

800 @ 3-3-3-4
http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/6...m36gpb8.th.jpg

why with this board my load coretemp is 75c while last time with my p5w dh it's only mid 50's..

**edited**

i reinstalled my waterblock and reapply artic silver 5 and yehaa, my temp back to normal.. now full load during orthos is 52c :D

anyone spotted a vcore measuring point ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by theonlybabyface

I love mine....:)

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That's the thing, your running crossfire , on my 680i I ran 8800GTX SLI as well as every thing else but now i'm just running one 8800GTX , I use on board sound and one hard drive, I did not know this about high powered PSU's, that they require a minimum about of output :eek:

I had to install the other 8800GTX just to balance it out.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by IluvIntel

The only thing that has me worried about with this board is the limited 1.6vcore, yet on the other side they have 2.8vdimm ?
Sounds rather out of balance don't you all think ?

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Intel doesn't have to turn around and deal with people who kill their memory from pushing too much power through it, on the other hand, they do have to deal with all the complaints of dead CPU's if you use too much voltage there.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by palese

Thanks Only:) Well my beep problem turned out to be my PSU :eek: I guess its not compatible with this board, the PSU has beep codes and I forgot about them, the code said I was not running enough devices for it :eek: It said it fell under a certain amp requirement :eek:

Any ideas for a good PSU replacement?

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your 850w enermax isn't enough ? :confused:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BAR*B*Q

anyone spotted a vcore measuring point ?

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http://www.vr-zone.com/index.php?i=4111&s=8

Quote:

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Originally Posted by astrodave

Strange that IDU and IDCC vs core temp and TAT give such drastic differences for me. Its like 2 of the programs measure one temp and the other 2 measure another. I wish i knew for sure which one was the accurate cpu internal temp. If its the higher temp then i probably need to reseat and reAS5 the HSF/cpu.

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Same here.
Here's an article from the author of Core temp: http://www.overclockers.com/articles1378/
Looks like both CT and IDU use data off DTS on each die. I don't know what accounts for the difference in readings, though.

Since core temp conflicts with IDU I ended up just using the latter; besides I feel more comfortable since it's an Intel program with a defined temp threshold.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Supertim0r

your 850w enermax isn't enough ? :confused:

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I called PC Power&Cooling a little while ago with this issue as I have used their product in the past to see if this is a common issue with high Watt psu's, The psu in my sig is fine when used with a full array of power demanding components and like I said I added my other 8800GTX even tho it just sits there doing nothing it cured the endless beeping I was getting in games only, so this tells me at least with the Enermax Galaxy anyways that you need to push power on the rails or it falters as it did with just one 8800GTX. For some reason the Galaxy thinks it is not receiving enough power consumption with one card to run. :eek:

So I ordered a 750 Quid Power supply from PC Power&cooling as it does not have this issue. I know people are gone to say they just wanted to sell me their stuff and will tell me anything I want to hear but they never offered to sell me anything, I did it on my own. Down side is they are sold out until the 29th of this month:(

Quote:

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Originally Posted by palese

I called PC Power&Cooling a little while ago with this issue as I have used their product in the past to see if this is a common issue with high Watt psu's, The psu in my sig is fine when used with a full array of power demanding components and like I said I added my other 8800GTX even tho it just sits there doing nothing it cured the endless beeping I was getting in games only, so this tells me at least with the Enermax Galaxy anyways that you need to push power on the rails or it falters as it did with just one 8800GTX. For some reason the Galaxy thinks it is not receiving enough power consumption with one card to run. :eek:

So I ordered a 750 Quid Power supply from PC Power&cooling as it does not have this issue. I know people are gone to say they just wanted to sell me their stuff and will tell me anything I want to hear but they never offered to sell me anything, I did it on my own. Down side is they are sold out until the 29th of this month:(

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Silencer quad 750W ?
This will be my next psu during holidays :D (or Zippy 720w)
single rail is better imo
nice choice :)

sorry if this has been already asked, but does this board do the double shutdown like Asus boards?

no double restart :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by situman

sorry if this has been already asked, but does this board do the double shutdown like Asus boards?

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You need to FORGET about any kind of other motherboard reset/reboot issues, this board is TOTALLY different than ANY Asus could ever hope to be..... And thats in a GOOD way!:D

Just remember about the whole "maint" jumper deal, and you'll be set...

Clearly the best board I've ever owned or sold... Fast, quiet, reliable, and incredibly stable... :toast: Give me access to downward multipliers and I surely died and went to heaven... Love it! :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by screwtech02

You need to FORGET about any kind of other motherboard reset/reboot issues, this board is TOTALLY different than ANY Asus could ever hope to be..... And thats in a GOOD way!:D

Just remember about the whole "maint" jumper deal, and you'll be set...

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jumpers eh? im gonna need slimmer fingers. Btw will it fully support quadcores as in overclock smoothly and easily?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by situman

jumpers eh? im gonna need slimmer fingers. Btw will it fully support quadcores as in overclock smoothly and easily?

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The jumper has a longer tip so it is easy to move. Big finger proof.

I can't get IDCC running. IDU does work. Is there any other software oc tool for this board?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Comp-Freak

I can't get IDCC running. IDU does work. Is there any other software oc tool for this board?

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try running the program in startup. worked for me

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Supertim0r

heikis : 2x1gig D9DQW work great

GPSeek : 1.375v bios, 3.6ghz -> core temp = 36-37c idle, 63-64c loaded (its currently inside a silent case, 2 noctua case fans + 1 noctua in T120 all controlled by mobo)

note : cpu and t120 are lapped

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Thanks for sharing your data:)
I finally re-installed the tuniq tower. I found the tower is very flat though it is not mirror-finished:fact: . The problem is that my Xeon 3060 IHS is quite concave:slapass: It really needs to be lapped to get better contact with the heatsink.:stick: However, I decided to leave it as is to keep the warranty and had to to put more AS5 than I like to. :mad:
The result is still about 5C higher than yours no matter idle or full load. Therefore, now I believe lapping IHS is really helpful.:p:

no cpu are identical. I'm using an ES and you're running a hot "B"
ambient, airflow and few things give different temp ;)

OK IDU is strange:D Mine has worked great up until I reinstalled my tuniq today, I had the back MB support installed without the pad as it stuck to the other board I had and could not reuse it:eek:

So today I took everything apart and put some non conductive foam between the bottom support and the MB, it works quite well and the plus side is it does not adhere to the back of the MB:D

I got everything up and running and all is well except IDU will not load so I reinstalled it and still will not work, I do think it has something to do with the order its installed in if you are using other utilities as well.

I have not proved my theory yet:fact:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Supertim0r

no cpu are identical. I'm using an ES and you're running a hot "B"
ambient, airflow and few things give different temp ;)

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Agreed :toast:
However, I still tend to compare the temperatures for check-up reference.
My xeon 3060 runs at 1.40v while yours ES runs at 1.375v. Even we take these into consideration, I still think that lapping IHS contribute most to the temperature difference between ours.:)

Guys does the BX2 have cold boot issues when OC {say 360fsb}, and does the on board NIC all ways show up in the BIOS with out 2 or 3 reboots ?

My BX1 has done this stuff to me regardless of which BIOS I use sense I've had it. I'm getting tired of testing all these other boards only to find they have worse issues "IMO" Other than the Boot issues, and vdimm is stuck at 2.0v {even after a fresh BIOS flash} I've liked the boards stability, and feature set. I'm just wondering what bugs/issues the BX2 is having?

Thanks

Is anyone with this board running 4 gig of ram? Is this board able to run 4 1gig sticks? Just curious. I'm getting my stuff ready for Vista and I have a little extra money right now. I just found the Corsair Dominator DDR2-1111 stuff instock at ZZF and was going to order a second set.

Any thoughts on this, other than it's alot to spend on ram (I already know this)?

Shawn

I tried mixed memory 4gig and it worked great

Thanks for the reply! I ordered it and it should be here next week sometime. I'll post back if/when it all works.

Shawn

hi guys
where i can find the last bios for my bad axe 2?
thanks

I'm too planning getting an XBX2 and pair it with a xeon3060. I'm thinking of getting both of them from http://alternate.eu/ (it's the same eshop as alternate.de). Since it's the first time I'm using an e-shop abroad, I was wondering if any of you has any possitive or negative feedback for the alternate eshop.

Quote:

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anyone spotted a vcore measuring point ?
http://www.vr-zone.com/index.php?i=4111&s=8

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Some information about measuring voltages on this board.
On vr-zone the Vcore point is 100% right, but Vmch is not, same is Vdimm.
Not everyone has a True RMS multimeter, that shows always right value for complex signals.
This is my poor and simply drawing about PWM modulated output schematic diagram(Vcore/Vdimm/Vmch, Vgpu, etc)
http://www.oc.pri.ee/BadAxe/BX2/pwm.png
If you measure DC voltage on wrong point (from mosfet leg or ferrite input leg) with cheap non True RMS capable multimeter,
you never now how it counting AC and DC component together.
The safe and right way is measure DC voltage on real DC voltage point,- after filtering. (green point)
And real-life pics :)
Vdimm right measure point on Bad Axe2:
http://www.oc.pri.ee/BadAxe/BX2/Vdimm_right.jpg
On vr-zone showed point you get that kind of "DC" voltage:
(DC Voltage must be a a straght line on this scoopmeter)
http://www.oc.pri.ee/BadAxe/BX2/Vdimm_wrong_o.jpg

The Vmch measuring riht place is from missed caps (black wire point)

http://www.oc.pri.ee/BadAxe/BX2/Vmch_right.jpg
If You measure vr-zone point voltage, you get this:
http://www.oc.pri.ee/BadAxe/BX2/Vmch_wrong_o.jpg
Again we have lot of HF AC component, that can "fool" some multimeter.