Making P5WDH ready for Conroe: An Illustrative Guide

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Originally Posted by Primoz78

I have the Thermaltake Extreme spirit 2 at home and I was just wondering if anyobody tested it on the P5W DH yet? I have now temperatures about 20-43°C with stock cooler under load...So the chips under the heatsink on the top of the board near the CPU slot don`t need to be cooled or...?

https://www.cool-pc.org/shopimages/t...mespirit2a.jpg

Regards,
Primoz

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I used this one on the SB and a different but similar one on the NB. Both a bit of a pain to mount but doable. The SB one has to swing away from any long vid card.

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Originally Posted by kenc3dan

This guide really works. :eek:
I lowered my idle temp by 4C and my load temp by about 6C. This seems to be what was giving me slight Primt95 stability problems around 3GHz. Now I stress test (dual Prime95) for hours at 3GHz. Time to push my luck a little more. Does it make sense that going from 46C to 40C on the NB (or is it SB?) would improve stability so much?

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yeah my temps never get over 40 degress stock pate.... Dont use AS5, just a 120mm lownoise over it and the mem

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Originally Posted by Plaicd

The covers on the nb and sb had some kind of plastic stuff over them I guess to prevent scratching, not good for heat transfer thou.

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Maybe I missed it, but I didn't see any replies to this. I took the plastic film off the covers. I can't see any benefit to them, other than to prevent scratching during shipping.

correct... remove these ASAP! Your temps will get very high with these things on.

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Originally Posted by xgman

I used this one on the SB and a different but similar one on the NB. Both a bit of a pain to mount but doable. The SB one has to swing away from any long vid card.

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You maybe wont believe me but...the temps with Thermaltake Extreme spirit 2 are exactly the same as with the stock cooling for tne NB :eek: ...I have checked it twice and have put it on 2 times just to be sure it is good mounted...with no difference in temps...:confused: So I have put back on the stock cooling...

Regards,
Primoz

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Originally Posted by Primoz78

You maybe wont believe me but...the temps with Thermaltake Extreme spirit 2 are exactly the same as with the stock cooling for tne NB :eek: ...I have checked it twice and have put it on 2 times just to be sure it is good mounted...with no difference in temps...:confused: So I have put back on the stock cooling...

Regards,
Primoz

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how did you take measure of your NB ?

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Originally Posted by Mykou

how did you take measure of your NB ?

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The same as usual...Asus Probe, Speedfan, AI Booster...

Regards,
Primoz

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Originally Posted by Primoz78

The same as usual...Asus Probe, Speedfan, AI Booster...

Regards,
Primoz

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I think you got Southbridge temp , that's why your temp didn't change after you put the extreme spirit 2 ......

regards

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Originally Posted by rpr

Maybe I missed it, but I didn't see any replies to this. I took the plastic film off the covers. I can't see any benefit to them, other than to prevent scratching during shipping.

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They`re metal, and yea. they should go. My NB cover is all bent and dented...if I have to RMA, theres enough sticky left on both the cover and the heatsink to reattach, but unless you`re careful, it`ll look like you`ve played football with it.

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Originally Posted by Mykou

I think you got Southbridge temp , that's why your temp didn't change after you put the extreme spirit 2 ......

regards

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Hmm....I have this thought too...but the SB tems are the same with ES2 as with the stock cooling...:cool: And AI Booster shows it as NB temps...

Regards,
Primoz

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Originally Posted by Primoz78

Hmm....I have this thought too...but the SB tems are the same with ES2 as with the stock cooling...:cool: And AI Booster shows it as NB temps...

Regards,
Primoz

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the south bridge is the system temp probe
u have to use a laser temp monitor or something like that

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Originally Posted by rpg711

the south bridge is the system temp probe
u have to use a laser temp monitor or something like that

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Thx for this man...you proved I was wrong :brick: ...I will check the temps with an laser temp monitor tomorrow...thanks :toast:

Regards,
Primoz

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Originally Posted by Primoz78

Thx for this man...you proved I was wrong :brick: ...I will check the temps with an laser temp monitor tomorrow...thanks :toast:

Regards,
Primoz

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lol so have to remount your extreme spirit :p:

LOL...yes I have to :cool: ...;)

Lp,
Primoz

How come nobody talked about water cooling for P5W DH?
Or fan cooling are the best choice?

Has anyone tried the hot flash method using something other than an intel board. Like an AMD ASUS or DFI ? I tried using an older abit socket A board but got errors.

I have called ASUS, they r sending me a bios, I did pay for overnight but this bios problem pretty much ruined my weekend project & I don't wanna wait til tomorrow.

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Originally Posted by Primoz78

LOL...yes I have to :cool: ...;)

Lp,
Primoz

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the thing i hate is always reappling my ac5... its almost empty now... gotta conserve, but when my comp acts up, gotta reseat the heatsink... i hate that :slapass:

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Originally Posted by XxHeartxBleedxX

How come nobody talked about water cooling for P5W DH?
Or fan cooling are the best choice?

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I got a Swiftech MCW30 Wc block
Just waiting for my other Wc stuff to arrive in the mail within the week so ill post my results here

As for VR temps , i have noticed that sometimes the fets are burning hot (the ones on top of the cpu socket) while other times they are just cool
I dont think i want to cut the heatpipe (wouldnt that void the warranty?) so ill be using some CM chipset coolers i bought and put a fan blowing the upper fet area

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Originally Posted by xgman

I used this one on the SB and a different but similar one on the NB. Both a bit of a pain to mount but doable. The SB one has to swing away from any long vid card.

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There's no way that would fit with an X1900 card is there? (which is longer than the Nvidia ones I think)

At the price it ships , asus should have considered a better layout like foxconn 975 board

If I remember well its layout, southbridge isn't anyway an obstacle to put a 2nd video card if you have a third party cooler over it and they already put an active cooling for the NB...

foxconn boards have a record of exploding lol

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Originally Posted by rpg711

foxconn boards have a record of exploding lol

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I was just talking about their mobo layout lol :D

Thanks freecableguy, I appreciate the time and effort you put into it, and I'm currently applying the removing the factory compound on my p5w dh. Already did the cleaning last night on the chipset, though I should of checked the thread out earlier when I was cleaning the southbridge, since I literally scrubbed away with a qtip for almost an hour trying to get the thermal compound off the intel & phillipines text, then found the Goo gone step and it worked like a charm. I didn't get to place the Artic silver 5 yet since I scratched the hell out of the bottom of the n/b heatsink, but gave asus a call and they're shipping a new one out to me. Again thanks man, this was a pretty fun new educational experience since this is my first pc build, and also I still have my V'card when it comes to OC'ing. http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...lies/toast.gif

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Originally Posted by TheDro

Gave asus a call and they're shipping a new one out to me.

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Free of charge?

If not, how much was it?

I've taken the heatpipe off my P5W-DH because I've fitted a Swiftech MCX-159CU, but I wouldn't mind getting a spare heatpipe so I can slice off the heatsink and reuse it (wanna keep the original in case I ever need to send the board back for RMA or sell it).

Ya, free of charge. Should be with the money they're making off of the p5wdh anyway.

why?... oh WHY!!!??? god must hate me.... =[

I finally got my new bios chip in today, i was excited as heck! so i popped out the old chip, and popped in the new one, plug in the power and turn the pc on.... nothing!!! i still got nothing but a black screen!!! no beeps, no nothing.... why am i doing wrong!!!??? some one please help me =`[

That sucks man.

did you clear the cmos and take out the battery? If nothing..RMA

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Originally Posted by syne_24

did you clear the cmos and take out the battery? If nothing..RMA

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actually, i don't know how to do that... take out the battery, got that, but what do i do with the jumper?

clear the cmos by taking out the battery
lesson concluded :p:

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Originally Posted by rpg711

clear the cmos by taking out the battery
lesson concluded :p:

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So, do I leave the new bios chip in and take out the battery for a min or two then put it back in?

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Originally Posted by XxHeartxBleedxX

So, do I leave the new bios chip in and take out the battery for a min or two then put it back in?

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Leave the chip in, pull the battery, move the jumper for a min then put the jumper back, your manual for the board will show you where this jumper is located.

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Originally Posted by Helidoc

Leave the chip in, pull the battery, move the jumper for a min then put the jumper back, your manual for the board will show you where this jumper is located.

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move the jumper? like, move it over, and move it back? or take it out, the put it back?

move it to the other position for a few mins. and then put the battery in, move it back and you should have a cleared CMOS. Usually if you just leave the battery out long enough that works too lol :D

FreecableGuy- after your Vmch voltmod, whats resistance in ohms i need to set on potentiometer if i want for example 1.75V? Where are measuring Vmch voltage points? What is maximal voltage of Vmch after this mod?

What voltage for 430+ on vmch ?

Very nice on the vmch vmod. Anxiously waiting for the vdimm mod... :)

I'm in despair... did the reset, still nothing but the black screen, i have no idea if it is the mobo, ram, graphic card, or cpu's problem.... if i RMA the mobo, they don't even have it in stock right now.... confused, don't know what to do.... =[

what you guys think?

Hey heartbleed, i juse read your last 2 posts.
i think he's talking about the jumper above the orange sata slot on the edge of the mobo. move it to the middle+right pin for ~30 sec. move it back.
also, try hooking in a fan into the cpu fan header.

i just took mine apart to install w/c on the nb. when i put it back together, everything would power up, but nothing would show up on the screen. i did the steps i told you above and it posted, etc.
try it out

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Originally Posted by m0da

Hey heartbleed, i juse read your last 2 posts.
i think he's talking about the jumper above the orange sata slot on the edge of the mobo. move it to the middle+right pin for ~30 sec. move it back.
also, try hooking in a fan into the cpu fan header.

i just took mine apart to install w/c on the nb. when i put it back together, everything would power up, but nothing would show up on the screen. i did the steps i told you above and it posted, etc.
try it out

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Hi Moda! what i did was, remove the battery, move the jumper over, left it there for few mins, move the pin back, then put the battery in, but still will not work....

What you need to do is either find a buddy with a compatible motherboard, or take your parts to a small shop, and have them test each part separately, to determine if it is a bad part (cpu or video card) or dead motherboard causing you the problem. If you have a buddy, then you can just do it at his house instead.

Also, try an older power supply, if you can borrow one...

again, dont forget to have a fan in the cpu fan header.
that might have been my problem, but im not sure.

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Originally Posted by Falkentyne

What you need to do is either find a buddy with a compatible motherboard, or take your parts to a small shop, and have them test each part separately, to determine if it is a bad part (cpu or video card) or dead motherboard causing you the problem. If you have a buddy, then you can just do it at his house instead.

Also, try an older power supply, if you can borrow one...

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I don't have a buddy with those high tech stuff.... they're too into animes... lmao! =[

Have you heard of Fry's? maybe i can take my stuff there?

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Originally Posted by m0da

again, dont forget to have a fan in the cpu fan header.
that might have been my problem, but im not sure.

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Hmmm, i don't quite get what you mean, but i'm using the stock heatsink and fan, is that okay?

just stick your hsf's plug into the cpu fan plug on the board.

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Originally Posted by m0da

just stick your hsf's plug into the cpu fan plug on the board.

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Yeah, I did, the one up there. or which one?

yes, the one up there.
no nothing? double check everything. if still no results, then rma it is, sorry about that

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Originally Posted by XxHeartxBleedxX

I'm in despair... did the reset, still nothing but the black screen, i have no idea if it is the mobo, ram, graphic card, or cpu's problem.... if i RMA the mobo, they don't even have it in stock right now.... confused, don't know what to do.... =[

what you guys think?

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You did put the BIOS chip in the right way didn't you? From memory it looks like it could go in two ways, and you could have it upside down I suppose?

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Originally Posted by Durzel

You did put the BIOS chip in the right way didn't you? From memory it looks like it could go in two ways, and you could have it upside down I suppose?

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Nah, its got a corner missing so it only goes in one way and one way up. Although if you tried really hard.....

awwww....... called Fry's Electronics, they don't test your stuff out.... i guess i'll have to RMA all graphic card, mobo, and my RAM..... don't even know when they're gonna have the mobo in stock again..... * cries *

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Originally Posted by XxHeartxBleedxX

why?... oh WHY!!!??? god must hate me.... =[

I finally got my new bios chip in today, i was excited as heck! so i popped out the old chip, and popped in the new one, plug in the power and turn the pc on.... nothing!!! i still got nothing but a black screen!!! no beeps, no nothing.... why am i doing wrong!!!??? some one please help me =`[

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RMA the whole board - finally DOA...........:(

Ok, since i've unplugged and took everything out..... i don't want to put it all back to test it again...... but.... you guys know the ATX12V 4 pin power thingy on to top left? are you suppose to plug a power into that one too? if that's the case........ i'm going to kick myself in the butt... and i just found out my mobo came with 0710 bios version... it really should've work. unless it it truely DOA.....

Yes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

plug that ho in and start that p5w up!

ahaw!!!!!!! no!!!! i already shipped those suckers out...... i'm a idiot...... thanks for everybody's help =[ i'm so depressed now.....

hey, on the bright side, i know what's wrong now, lmao! xD

DAM LOL!!!

that really sucks!! when did you send it??
CMON MAN!!!!!!!!! why would you post a question and then send it without an answer

LOL YOU ARE FUNNY!!!!!
well keep us updated when the new/same one comes in.

Heheheh, it was in the morning, i don't know mate.... i guess i was brain dead at the moment... i'll update, that's a sure thing! =)

Well i just changed to H20 on my MCH core. Replaced it with Radiical.com.au chipset waterblock :D

First, I cut a piece of sticky back insulation foam horizontally to a paper near paper thin height and stuck it on the 2 corners of MCH green PCB near the hooks. Just added precaution in case i crush the MCH chipset core heh. Second, I put some Microcool silver mosfet heatsinks on the mosfets near the cpu socket.

http://i4memory.com/reviewimages/mot...hipset_001.jpg http://i4memory.com/reviewimages/mot...hipset_004.jpg http://i4memory.com/reviewimages/mot...hipset_005.jpg

Then mounted the Radiical chipset waterblock.

http://i4memory.com/reviewimages/mot...hipset_019.jpg http://i4memory.com/reviewimages/mot...hipset_020.jpg http://i4memory.com/reviewimages/mot...hipset_023.jpg

Testing right now :D

I did a VR mod with 10k ohm for mch, since i put the resistance on 10k ohm so the Vmch is on 1.3xx with 1.65v on bios, but eveytime i tune the VR around 1.69 my system is hang.. do i need to increase FSB termination voltage as well?

update: is it because of my videocard? i heard somewhere pcie max safest voltage with water is 1.65.

Felix.

For those with cheap meters (good ones without true rms will show a tad higher voltage, whereas -WARNING- el cheapo testers will show ~0.3v lower voltage).
So, for example, vlixcool upped his vmch to 1.69v but in reality it was ~2v.
And when you feel very brave someday and try 3v vddr, you'll fry your rams with 3.3v :)
so - buy better tester or use different measuring points :)

for vddr:

http://alpha.frontier86.ee/~markku/975/vddr.jpg

for vmch, point 1 or point 2 (good for grabbers):

http://alpha.frontier86.ee/~markku/975/vmch.jpg

hmm.. i tuned my el cheapo multimeter tho.. ;p well i will buy a good multimeter tomorow and let see how it goes. and the measurement point for vmch is really helpful, thnx for the info caater :)


Felix

Hey guys!

So... how do you clean up the thermal paste on your CPU? it is the same step as how you would clean the NB and the SB? I'm afraid that i might do something wrong.. and mess it all up =[ Do i apply the thermal paste on the cpu only? or also on the bottom of the stock heatsink and fan?

I really don't want to screw up so yeah.... Thanks!

There is an ok guide to how to apply paste on the cpu at http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_s...tions_big2.htm

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Application Instructions for Premium Silver Thermal Compound

Don't put it in your mouth.

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I knew I was doing something wrong! :am:

-phil

How high can you safely increase the NB Vcore using the stock NB cooler?

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Originally Posted by pauldovi

How high can you safely increase the NB Vcore using the stock NB cooler?

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new p5w dh rev has 1.85v setting in bios..
abit aw9d has 2v setting in bios with similar cooling..
so i guess it depends.. just add voltage and if it gets too hot, cool it down :)

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Originally Posted by caater

new p5w dh rev has 1.85v setting in bios..
abit aw9d has 2v setting in bios with similar cooling..
so i guess it depends.. just add voltage and if it gets too hot, cool it down :)

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There is a new P5W DH revision that allows for a 1.85V Vcore, but not a BIOS revision to allow all others to have similiar Vcore?

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Originally Posted by pauldovi

There is a new P5W DH revision that allows for a 1.85V Vcore, but not a BIOS revision to allow all others to have similiar Vcore?

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the setting is inside every new p5wdh bios, but older revisions lack hardware to make it work.
just mod the board, it's not hard and can help a lot.

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Originally Posted by caater

the setting is inside every new p5wdh bios, but older revisions lack hardware to make it work.
just mod the board, it's not hard and can help a lot.

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Stupidest thing Asus ever did.....I don't feel comfertable modding the board, and this is pissing me off :(

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Originally Posted by caater

the setting is inside every new p5wdh bios, but older revisions lack hardware to make it work.
just mod the board, it's not hard and can help a lot.

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I would mod my board, but the NB is not my bottleneck. It is my RAM, which will not go over 430Mhz (I can get a 448Mhz FSB at a 2:3 FSB to Memory). I will wait for new memory (G.Skill DDR2-1000) before I do any NB modding.

use another divider?

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Originally Posted by hot_fifty

use another divider?

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I would rather keep 1:1 as the only other option with the ASUS board is 2:3. Memory bandwidth is key in my opinion, and a 2:3 ratio with only 15Mhz higher FSB is really not worthwhile.

hey guys, do you know if the vmch and vdimm mod are the same on the P5WDG2-S pro?

Marco


edit: nevermind... I found what I was lookin for.

May I ask if the "upper part" of the NB heatsink is actually cooling something or is it just there to cool the NB? I'd like to watercool my system (E6300, P5W DH Deluxe, 7900GT), but I'm not sure if I can watercool my NB. It's getting _REALLY_ hot even at stock speed (47 degrees dual prime), and I dont want to kill my board by cooking the NB.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by caater

For those with cheap meters (good ones without true rms will show a tad higher voltage, whereas -WARNING- el cheapo testers will show ~0.3v lower voltage).
So, for example, vlixcool upped his vmch to 1.69v but in reality it was ~2v.
And when you feel very brave someday and try 3v vddr, you'll fry your rams with 3.3v :)
so - buy better tester or use different measuring points :)

for vddr:

]

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Hmm i paid abot $12 for my DMM and it may be a little bit off but its 100% definetly not .3v off.

A good way to test is to measure stock voltages. Meaning on my dfi NF2 the max DDR volts was 3.2v, my meter read as 3.3v, which is correct as the board ran off the 5v rail and was known by many to overvolt. The cpu on the otherhand was known to undervolt, sure enough, at 2.0v vcore i read roughly 1.98. Certainly some cheap meter may be bad, but i doubt we are talking .3v, maybe .03.

Wow, let me just say, thank you so much for your awesomness "freecableguy". I find myself doing more and more hardware stuff (was a total newb not too long ago) and this one really paid off. After my successful mod (AC5 + covers removed) my NB temps dropped from 45c at a load to 35c. Now thats sweet. Its unrelated, but I put some ac5 on my cpu and lapped my hsf and dropped my temps from 56c at a load to 46c. It was funny too because I was all scared I would mess something up, and when I booted my comp for the 1st time I got no video or anything. After :banana::banana::banana::banana:ting my pants I checked and saw that I forgot to plug in the 12v power by the cpu. After that its all gravy! Thanks again, this proves that with good instructions (and great pics :) ) anyone can do this stuff!

I would assume that since the VDMM and VMCH mods both are attaching to a RT9214 that pin#3 can be used for ground on the VDMM mod as well. Is this correct?

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Originally Posted by cronic

I would assume that since the VDMM and VMCH mods both are attaching to a RT9214 that pin#3 can be used for ground on the VDMM mod as well. Is this correct?

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this is correct. ground is ground (well, at least when dealing with power supply circuits....i wouldn't advise the use of a digital signal ground but that's another story...)

:help: I got really dumb and tried to remove the copper cover on the NB. Well, it pulled the Heatsink from the chip. Would it ok if I just snug it back without putting new compound on? I am not going to be seriously overclocking my e6600, maybe a tad. Pleae let me know, and THANKS for the great post.

if its only a tad enough to not have to increase MCH (~360fsb?) then id say yeah... if you can 'feel' where it lines up in its original hole, i cant imagine it changing things that much, the stock TIM is pretty junky no matter what.

Wow thanks, But, I talked to a friend on vent, he said its not going to hurt anything if you put AS5 on it and it might help a bit anyways. I want to do this once and never touch a thing for about 3 years. I got AS5 coming to use on my ZALMAN CNPS9500 AT 2 Ball CPU Cooling Fan/Heatsink - Retail. I got this more for show then actual SERIOUS overclocking. BTW, since you know what your doing. If I want to increase my e6600 to about 2.7-2.9, what should I change in the bois or the software? Nothing fancy, Like i said, I am going to set it and forget it. FOREVER> heh. Thanks for the quik reply. This is my system:

E6600
ATI x1950xtx
Seagate 250 gig 7200.10 rpm (only one, still trying to figure out what SATA port to use)
Corsiar 6400c4 2 gigs

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Originally Posted by freecableguy

Making your Asus P5WDH (Deluxe) Ready for Conroe: An Illustrative Guide
PART II: Completing the vMCH mod (aka vmodding 101)
brought to you by xtremesystems.org

Introduction and General Disclaimer

Completel ANY modification is at your own risk. This guide is intended to provide direction only and does not constitute ANY responsibility on my or the site's (XS.org) behalf with regarding to possible damage to a) your board, b) yourself, c) ANYTHING. Remember, nobody knows your limitations better than you. Have fun but play safely!

Here's our board again. Conroe installed and waiting. You know how important it is to work cleanly now (at least you should after reading my original guide). I recommend lightly cleaning the working area...in our case...as shown below.


http://www.jpop.com/fcg/DSC02383.JPG

http://www.jpop.com/fcg/DSC02386_A.JPG


Here are our two (2) solder points:

http://www.jpop.com/fcg/DSC02390_A.JPG


I have numbered the pins. Pin 1 starts at the "dot" marker. Then, continuing down the same side of the IC...pin 2, pin 3, etc...when you get to the end, continue counting from the pin directly across from the last on that side....when you get to the end...STOP. This particular IC has 8 pins (SOP-8 package). We will be soldering to Pin #3 and Pin #6

If you care to know more about the theory involved in our particular modification...we can cover this more at a later time. Right now just understand that we are forcing the regulated output voltage, in this case the voltage feeding the NB, higher by inserting a manual offset in the circuit feedback loop. The system will work to compensate by increasing the output voltage in response to our handwork. ;)

You can find the PDF datasheet for the RichTek RT9214 (5V/12V Synchronous Buck PWM DC-DC Controller) here if you care to read more about this particular component. (You're highly encouraged to read.)

First, everything you will need. (I think I forgot to include a single straight razor blade in the pictures.) If you haven't figured it out, yes, that's the part number for the potentiometer from Digi-key there. Please don't everybody PM me asking for the part number.... :rolleyes: For those that have stash or perfer to deal with some other reseller, it's a 25-turn 10K ohm potentiometer.

http://www.jpop.com/fcg/DSC02398.JPG

http://www.jpop.com/fcg/DSC02400.JPG

http://www.jpop.com/fcg/DSC02402.JPG

http://www.jpop.com/fcg/DSC02427.JPG

If you don't deal with Digi-Key I highly recommend that you check them out. Create a login and order a catalog (FREE). You will get a new one about every quarter or so. Digi-key has just about EVERYTHING you could ever need and great prices, too. Tell them Kris sent you (just kidding, they will have no idea who I am). :p:

OK, turn on your soldering iron now. I don't use anything fancy. I believe it's a 45W Weller. You don't need to crank it up as high as it will go. Go to about 3-4 to start. Really, we don't need more than about 20W of heat. Before we begin soldering there are a couple of things we need to go over. This should be your mantra when working with computer electronics:

1) My hands are my rock, I shall not shake.
2) I shall apply heat no longer than absolutely necessary.
3) I shall act sparingly with my solder, too much and I shall certainly bridge a few pins.

BTW, please, don't let your brand new $275 motherboard be the first thing you solder on. Practice on something else.....please.....pretty please.... :) And if you don't think you can behave and follow the three simple "rules" above, by all means, don't attempt this. Maybe think about finding someone who can help you out...


Step 1: Prepare your potentiometer

Start by turning the set screw on your potentiometer at least the maximum number of end to end turns in the counter-clockwise direction (we will cover why later). This will ensure that you have reached the maximum value for at least one of the "two internal resistors." Yes, there is only one "resistor bank" inside and only one wiper arm. For the purpose of describing what is happening we will model this system as two resistors as illustrated below.

The object on the left is the IC that we will be soldering to. The red lines will be the wires that we solder in. The object on the right is the potentiometer.

Just remember this:
A + B = 10K ohm ALWAYS (sometimes 10K will be a little off...like 10.3K....this is normal)

What this means is that if B = 5K then A = 10K - 5K = 5K. If we turn the set screw and move the wiper blade A or B will increase (or decrease, depending on the directing of motion of the set screw, clock-wise or counter clock-wise) such that A + B is a constant. If A goes up then B goes down and vice versa....Got it? :cool:

http://www.jpop.com/fcg/vmod.JPG

Now that's all well and good. Except that we just want to insert some parallel resistance from the FB (feedback) line to ground. Any ground will work. We chose Pin #3 of the IC because it's 1) close, 2) easy, 3) did I say close? :p:

The red "x" means that we won't be connecting that leg of the potentiometer. The middle leg is the wiper leg and the two on either side are the other sides of the "A" and "B" resistances that we create by moving the set screw. Not all potentiometer are setup exactly the same that's why I have provide you with a part number. I recommend you buy the same type that I have used in this guide.

Since there is no potential developed across "B" we get no current flow through "B." For all intents and purposes we can model the system as if "B" didn't even exist:

http://www.jpop.com/fcg/vmod2.JPG

http://www.jpop.com/fcg/DSC02409_A.JPG

So, turning the set screw from one maximum to the other makes "A" go from 0 ohms (minimum, a short - a no-no) to 10K ohms (max). Here's what we are really doing to the system. We place "A" as labeled. The second placement of "A" inside of the dashed-line box is the same as that which we show as going straight from Pin #3 to Pin #6. Why? Because all grounds in this picture are the same, which I have further illustrated by connecting them together with the longer red lines.

http://www.jpop.com/fcg/vmod3.JPG

Why not just insert a resistor and be done with all of this? Simple. We want our modification to be adjustable....hence the use of the potentiometer.

Now that we've established that we only need to two legs all we need to do now is determine which two legs. Well, we already said that we had to keep the middle leg. Measuring the resistance between the outer two legs is always 10K...remember...A + B = 10K. No matter how we move the set screw the total resistance of the "resistor bank" doesn't change, only the resistance from one end to the tap-off point (the middle leg).

-> Here's how I choose which outer leg to keep. I make a standard convention, such as: clock-wise motion on the set screw is an increase in voltage (not necessarily an increase in resistance, usually just the opposite...)

-> In this case a decrease in resistance causes an increase in voltage. So, turning the set screw clock-wise should cause the resistance between the legs I chose to go down.

-> Since I want to install the modification at a minimum I have already pre-set the potentiometer by turning counter clock-wise the maximum number of turns. (remember this from before?)

-> That means that since I have already set a maximum from one outer leg to the middle I just need to determine which outer leg is at a maximum! :D How? Measure with a multimeter from the middle leg to each outer leg separately. One should be ~10K and the other 0K. Yes? If not you have not turned the set screw couter clock-wise enough times.

-> Once again, maximum resistance is minimum increase in voltage. So find that outer leg that measured as a short to the middle leg and clip it off! Here's what you should end up with:

Note: I also cut the other two legs a little shorter, we don't need all that length.
http://www.jpop.com/fcg/DSC02414.JPG

Another way to look at it:

http://www.jpop.com/fcg/vmod4.JPG

See the legs labeled? "CW" means that clock-wise set screw motion moves the wiper in that direction. We moved it "CCW" so the wiper moved to "1." So the middle to "1" was a short and "3" to the middle ("2") was a maximum. So we cut of "1" since we want a maximum for CCW motion since CW motion from this point lowers resistance (from a maximum) from 3 to the middle leg ("2"). And lowering resistance is an increase in voltage since the FB pin on the IC uses a pre-amplified inverting input! If you don't like this method use the method descrived above. :D

In the end, it really doesn't matter which way you turn the set screw to change the voltage. I strongly recommend that you have a convention so that you don't start cranking up the voltage by accident thinking you are lowering. Since raising and lower the resistance may have different responses with different PWM controller ICs you will need to think through this process every time. Be careful. Installing a potentiometer with the legs shorted can kill a board if a minimum resistance on the feedback pin sets a maximum output voltage...BOOM. :(


Step 2: Prepare your wires

I use small wire. I think 28 or 30 gauge. Black is my favorite color (disappears the best) but red is all I have. Onward!

Cut off a couple of short lengths...think like 1" or so. Generally, the shorter the better. If you have to mount the potentiometer farther from the modification site then you will obviously need more wire.

http://www.jpop.com/fcg/DSC02406.JPG

http://www.jpop.com/fcg/DSC02420.JPG

Now using your flat straight razor strip a small section from the ends of each wire. If you have a wire stripper that can handle this guage then by all means go for it! (wow) When you are using the razor you should be making more of a scraping motion as you turn the wire....if you press down too hard you will probably just cut the wire outright. Here's what it should look like when done as well as a short with one done and one remaining:

http://www.jpop.com/fcg/DSC02421.JPG

http://www.jpop.com/fcg/DSC02424.JPG


Step 3: Solder everything together!

We'll start by soldering the wires to Pin #3 and Pin #6 on the IC. Remember, don't use any more heat than you absolutely need to and don't hold the soldering iron directly on the IC legs an longer than necessary (2-3 seconds maximum.) Just remove the iron in between soldering attempts to allow the IC to cool. High heat for too long = damage. Heat head for soldering in short bursts = fine and dandy.

"Tinning" your soldering iron head will help. Do this by allowing the solder to coat the tip of the iron. Allow a little to accumulate so that you can move this to the leg of the IC you are working on. "Tin" the leg as well as the wire end that you will be join it. Work clean. If the heat causes the flux in the solder to burn and make a dark residue remove this from the iron tip by quickly running it across the wet sponge you have nearby.

Once you have both wires attached they should be secure enough that you can raise the board off your work surface by lifting with the wire you just soldered to either IC leg.

http://www.jpop.com/fcg/DSC02433.JPG
-> Not my best job there but this is some small stuff! ;)

Once the wires are soldered in we simply line up the other end with a leg of the potentiometer. Which one doesn't matter.

http://www.jpop.com/fcg/DSC02437.JPG


The apply a blob of solder (good thing that looks don't matter in this case!):

http://www.jpop.com/fcg/DSC02441.JPG

And repeat:

http://www.jpop.com/fcg/DSC02444.JPG

http://www.jpop.com/fcg/DSC02446.JPG

Now simply move the wires so that they are positioned as you like. Don't use too much force. Don't want to break a line. Just get them out of the way and in a safe place:

http://www.jpop.com/fcg/DSC02455.JPG

http://www.jpop.com/fcg/DSC02459.JPG

Last step is to use a small drop of super-glue to firm attach the potentiometer to the board. This is about the only real part of the mod that makes it non-removable. Of course, if you want to be able to remove it later to sell the board to someone that want it stock you can always use something a little less permanent when securing the pot in place.

When you boot the board you should see very little change in vMCH (via BIOS) since the potentiometer is set to maximum resistance. I recommend that you set the BIOS vMCH to 1.65 before you adjust up. This way you can't set 1.8v when BIOS is at default and then later send 2.1v through you NB when you pick 1.65v in BIOS.....I've seen worse....lol.

If you care to learn more about how the NB/MCH responds to voltage with this board this would be a good place to start!:

Asus P5W DH Deluxe MCH Overclocking Response

-FCG

:toast:

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wow nicely done sir :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by railmeat

wow nicely done sir :D

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u didnt have to quote all of it...

Nice guide, i´m certanly gonna use it.
I will also say that this is a sticky...

Nice guide you wrote!!

Anyone ever thought of putting some longer wires there, and use a potentiometer with a nice knob on the front panel??! I think I'll do that, together with a little display showing vMCH on the front panel...what'ya think?!?!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GrossmeisterB

Nice guide you wrote!!

Anyone ever thought of putting some longer wires there, and use a potentiometer with a nice knob on the front panel??! I think I'll do that, together with a little display showing vMCH on the front panel...what'ya think?!?!

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If you do that, wrap the ground wire around the wire that goes to the middle leg of the pot.

You think that "shielding" that wire is necessary?!?!
I think I'll use some shielded/twisted wire for it, to be on the "safe" side...

I'll just try it out...I wanna do that together with a controller for my watercooling stuff, with fan-controller etc...hehe...

I remounted my NB heatsink with AS5 and now my mobo doenst want to power on. The green LED is lit, but it doenst respond in any way to the power switch. Anyone got some suggestions?

I tried:
The mobo with only the cpu, mem installed.
tried inside my casing and also outside my casing

Perhaps, your board is being shorted by the case. And, only because it must be asked: did you make sure to connect both the 20+4-pin ATX and 4-pin 12V PSU connectors?

-phil

I removed my mobo completely outside the case, its on a piece of cardboard.
I've also connected both power cables, yes also the little 4pin one.

If I damaged the NB would it behave like this? as in, not responding to anything but lit the LED?

wow that is bad luck dude. rma the board and hope they dont notice.

any beeps / voice in speakers without ram?

Does anyone know if changing the thermal paste and removing the plastic heatsink covers will void the warranty? I would like to do those things but not if doing them voids the warranty.

Any changes will void the warranty.

DONT tell them that u changed anything when trying to waranty it... its not like they will check every 1000000 mobos they get for changed thermal paste... come on lol:p:

I dont get exactly whats the point of vMCH or modding 101
There is this big guide to vmod the Asus p5w PH deluxe...
here.. http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=106563

Can i reach 3.6+++ ghz without this technqiue?

The author says

Quote:

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When you boot the board you should see very little change in vMCH (via BIOS) since the potentiometer is set to maximum resistance. I recommend that you set the BIOS vMCH to 1.65 before you adjust up. This way you can't set 1.8v when BIOS is at default and then later send 2.1v through you NB when you pick 1.65v in BIOS.....I've seen worse....lol.

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I dont understand what the author is saying here about vmch 1.65 and voltage. isnt' volt = vmch? and i thought for the ocz ram i have to set it up at 2.1 voltage.

I've never built a comp before and i have all of the following just waiting the tuniq tower 120 cooler to be in stock and i can start putting things together.

My comp specs is
case is nzxt nemesis elite
CPU e6600,
Ram ocz p 64800 2x1g rev2 ram
MB asus p5w dh delux
PSU OCZ GXS 700w

Vey nice guide. Just finished it.

Very Nice Guide there freecableguy! Just bought myself a P5W DH Deluxe and it will sure be useful! I only have a little question thought... Do i need to do that Hotflash Bios thing ? I assume that at the time you typed the thread none of the Asus Bios were core 2 duo ready... but now ? I bet it will be alright ?

Thanks and again :clap: :up:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Patriote

Very Nice Guide there freecableguy! Just bought myself a P5W DH Deluxe and it will sure be useful! I only have a little question thought... Do i need to do that Hotflash Bios thing ? I assume that at the time you typed the thread none of the Asus Bios were core 2 duo ready... but now ? I bet it will be alright ?

Thanks and again :clap: :up:

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Nope, you do not need to hotflash the BIOS now. Good luck. ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Omastar

Nope, you do not need to hotflash the BIOS now. Good luck. ;)

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Thanks :D

Little question. Im following the steps of this Guide and im at the begining... When trying to remove the SB heatsink ... im using a Flat screwdriver and im kind of afraid that im gonna not only remove the SB heatsink (which looks like to be freaking stickied whit super glue... i mean i can't even rotate the heatsink ...) but im also gonna screw the SB chip off! Am i paranoing ? never used the board thought. So maybe it's because the SB has never heated up or ?

EDIT: Made the Brave guy and pushed a little more harder and "pop" it poped off... as the Guide says...lol OMG... you should see the Thermal compound under the heatsink.. it's completely dryed out and it wasn't even covering all the surface of the Chip...

nice guide