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Can some one help me over clock my rig GA DS3P mobo, q6600 go stepping,2 gigs 8500 ram, TT 120 extreme heat sink. i dont want mess up because this is my first time overclocking. i need some basic step for overclocking, which programs do i need for measuring temp? btw i only want go up to 3.0.
Not sure mybe something to do with the board bios idk my e6750 go did samething with my ga-p35-ds3p or mybe it because of the new go chip, is that q6600 a go? mybe someone knows like to fill us in?Quote:
Originally Posted by persh
Got lazy guys and haven't really added any updates...lots have appeared, driver/bios and reviews;
Realtek 889A codec drivers, version 1.73:
http://www.realtek.com.tw/downloads/...&GetDown=false
New Jmicron drivers for Gigabyte branded JMB363 (SATA II) controller:
http://www.station-drivers.com/telec...ivers.com).exe
Intel Matrix Storage Manager, version 7.6.0.1011. The drivers and software have been updated, driver dated and WHQL July 12th 2007:
http://downloadmirror.intel.com/1380...iata76_enu.exe
New beta bios for the P35-DS4, F6a:
http://www.station-drivers.com/page/...ga-p35-ds4.htm
New Intel Chipset Software 8.3.1.1009, includes support for X38...read the following link....drivers are not uploaded as yet:
http://www.station-drivers.com/forum...hp?p=8587#8587
In addition if you go to the GB website they have new motherboard revisions listed, the P35-DQ6 is now only listed as Revision 1.1, other boards have revision 2.0 and 1.1.
New version of Easy Tune 5, page says August 3rd 2007:
http://www.gigabyte.com.tw/Support/M...lity&FileID=49
New review of the P35,DQ6:
http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/hardw...rd-review.html
A review of the P35T-DQ6. The DDR3 flavour of the DQ6:
http://www.neoseeker.com/Articles/Ha...yte_ga_p35dq6/
Yea, for now (?) run at 3,2 ghz with 1,375 vcore (356x9 - Evercool IceMan), 2,1vdimm (890/4-4-4-12-2T) and +0,1v vMCH & vFSB.Quote:
Originally Posted by r4st4m4n
Temp. ambient 16~20º and CoreTemp IDLE show 33~35º.
Thanxs for reply.:)
Anyone tried bios F6a ??Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard Dower
I have tried various BIOS files for my DQ6, F4 BIOS and later versions. All had a strange reboot error, where the PC would post, then shutdown and reboot with default settings.
It was annoying having to enter the BIOS each time and select "enable" for the FSB and 2:2 for ram.
I tried the F3 BIOS after I read it was offering good performance, and the above problem has gone away! It posts and runs with the correct settings every time :)
I have my E6850 at 434x9 for 3900Mhz, and everything is working sweet at that speed :D
However I can't get the board to post and/or boot over 475ish though, even if I lower the CPU multi right down. I have 2GB OCZ DDR2 PC2-8000 Titanium Alpha VX2, which should be good up to 500mhz I think, but it just won't do it :(
Do you think it could be my E6850 not liking high fsb? Or that I have crappy ram or poor mobo?
Cheers :D
Anyone know what size the P35-DQ6 nuts are that you are supposed to attach when removing the Crazy Cool back plate?
Either my DQ6 did not come with any nuts or I lost mine... and I need replacements in that case. Either that or I have to cut the black plate, which my dad said he would do at work but that's not until Monday... I'm not powering up the DQ6 with a loose NB but I also don't want to wait any longer on system downtime. :(
>> I have tried various BIOS files for my DQ6, F4 BIOS and later versions. All had a strange reboot error, where the PC would post, then shutdown and reboot with default settings.
I use F5G. It performs about same for me at F4. F5L had an infinite reboot loop with certain OC settings.
I couldn't get my E6850 to do much OC at all. Running 3.5 at stock voltage. Couldn't do 3.7 or 3.8 at 1.42V or with auto voltages.
My Patriot 8500 memory can do 1066 5-5-5-9 easy at 2.0V, or can do ~1216 at 2.3V and loose timings but I didn't get any Prime benchmark improvement.
Overall, the board seems finicky in its OC settings, especially for RAM.
>> Anyone know what size the P35-DQ6 nuts are that you are supposed to attach when removing the Crazy Cool back plate? Either my DQ6 did not come with any nuts or I lost mine... and I need replacements in that case.
See photo of the nuts. I measured the nut, and it looks like the screw would be a 2mm diameter screw. I'm guessing it is a metric thread, but could be wrong. Plus, as you can see, they are not your typical nuts. If you want it, I guess I could sell them for $10, and I'll put them in a US Mail $0.41 envelope, but I wouldn't mind keeping them in case I need a different future cooler or something.
If it is worth anything, I use a "Scythe SCNJ-1100P 120mm Sleeve CPU Cooler - Retail" which is simply the Ninja Rev B I believe (just got it from Newegg) and it fits perfectly (1/8" gap all around), and keeps the crazy cool on the back in place - no need to remove it. It used to be the #1 highest rated cooler at silectpcreview.com, and is very cool.
I might be interested in purchasing them, I'm not sure yet. I'll know after Monday, or hopefully by then (contacted Gigabyte and asked whether or nut cutting the back plate voids warranty).
Also, was the sealed bag they were in very small?
I think you're doing better than I am with my 4400 if that makes ya feel any better. Right now i'm at 356x9 1.525v(on water) ram at 890 4.0-4-3-11-2t 2.2v. The rest of the voltages are at auto and everyting seems pretty cool. It's much faster than my Opteron was so i'm pleased so far. EDIT/ wanted to add that i'm seeing 22c idle 52c load in speedfan for the cores with 23c ambient.Quote:
Originally Posted by mojado
i finally found the sweet spot
530fsb:D
weird thing is the board is cooler now than @ 430fbs and i uped the voltage
Sorry, my mistake.:(Quote:
Originally Posted by Poki
I need really 1,425vcore in 356x9, vdimm 2,1 at 5-4-4-13 and +0,15 vMCH & vFSB to obtain system stable....:( , but the temps are normals in IDLE and full.
Another question....who micro is better to reach a greater FSB on this GA-P35-DS3P? C2D E6420 or E6600 (within my budget) ???
P.D.: sorry for my bad english.
Poof my DQ6 problems are all gone. I assembled my brand new DQ6 and my brand new E6850 and my new radeon HD2900XT with 4gb of ram. Well from the first day. Everytime I tried to overclock using bios only settings it would always reset back to default settings on startup. I have a multi boot system It would do this with WinXP,WinXP 64,Vista x32, and Vista x64. I tried changing bioses several times to no avail nothing worked except once in a while it would mysteriously work if I was luck till the next reboot. I had tried everything from taking out 2gb of memory didnt help. was brand new power supply 750 watt thermaltake toughpower so i know there wasnt power issues. No heat issues its watercooled I had everything I needed shut off in the bios. For some weird reason I couldnt never use my reset buton youd just hear the pc cycle on and off watching the cool blue leds blink on my video card would have to flip the power off on the back of the power supply and restart. I evertried the dreaded Easytune always same issues. Well I was getting sick of all the crackes pops and lag effect from the onboard sound. So I went out and bought myself a bluegears b-Enspirer and disabled my onboard sound and Poof my overclocking works 100% od the time either in bios or with Easytune. My reset button actually works now. My conclusion either theres a batch of DQ6's around with onboard sound issues or maybe its just noone uses it to have noticed the problem. Ive seen some post to the sort of other people having issues with setting always reverting back to default Im curious to see if they were using onboard sound and if so try disabling it and see if your problems go away
Yay now im OC'ed to 3.6 at 32c 100% load Woot
I'm having a slight problem getting my E6420 to ~3.6 without going above 1.5v. Currenty, I have got 3.2@1.35(bios) and 3.4@1.38 stable (I keep my normal usage at 3.2). When I try to bump it to 3.6, not even 1.48 or so would stay stable - Orthos keeps crashing after a couple minutes or I get a BSOD. I have all my other voltages set as normal besides for the ram which I have at 2.2v running at 450 5/5/5/12 (instead of 4/4/4/12 just to get this OC stable). Should I raise the FSB volts a bit or that isn't needed and I just need to pump out some more Vcore?
My max temps are around 54-55 on Orthos full load and around 30c Idle.
Also, does anyone know what stock Volts are for MCH, FSB and PCI-E Overvoltage?
Well perhaps it scales bad with voltage like my new E6750, does up to 3.36GHz on 1.35v bios value with 1.33v idle and 1.31v load after vdroop. To get 3.6GHz stable for example it needs even 1.40v load, to get to 3.75GHz it needs even 1.5v load. Honestly I had hoped for a lot higher clock when I found out it did even 3.36GHz Orthos stable on a 1.31v load but it turned out to not be as I had hoped for such as 3.9GHz at 1.5v or so, instead it did only 390MHz more with an almost 0.2v increase. Can the scaling get any worse than that? :p: If I would go for the voltage/MHz sweetspot, 3.36GHz would be it for this CPU but meh I'm a performance enthusiast and 3.36GHz is too low clock for my liking so I just use 3.75GHz despite the quite a lot wasted power consumption for a relatively small clock increase.
I just got my P35 DQ6 and the first thing i did was to remove the "crazy cool" plate. Now i'm just wondering if supplied nuts really gives enough pressure to the heatsink? Mine seems a bit loose and im experiencing really :banana::banana::banana::banana:ty ram problems (memtest fails).
I don't have any nuts on mine (probably a very bad thing) but so far... other then a few random reboots when trying to load CoreTemp... I haven't really seen any problems.Quote:
Originally Posted by xphaze
Did you nuts come in a small sealed bag? I am just clueless as to where mine went or where they may be.
Yes the nuts come in a little sealed bag. Took me a while to figure out what they were for and had to read the directions duh lol
Forgive the intrusion but I have a lil question............
Confused by all these Gigabyte P35 board variants.
Which one would best suit my needs?
All I need is a good clocking board to house a Q6600, I don't need a squillion features as it will pretty much be a barebones crunching rig, no OTT graphics and such.
Seems the options are:
Gigabyte GA P35C-DS3R.....£73.
Gigabyte GA P35-DS3P.......£87.
Gigabyte GA P35-S3.........£64.
Gigabyte GA-P35-DS3R......£71.
I don't envisage using DDR3 anytime soon.
On my DS3 I get a decent fsb with my Geil PC2 6400 so I assume it would be decent enough in these boards too?
I know the price differential between these boards isn't great but no point paying extra for features I won't need.
Which board would you folks suggest?
Thank you :)
The p35-ds3r is a great board if you can live with the vdroop. I had it over 500fsb with an e6400. It will run my q6600 at 9x400 with 1.42 after droop. If you are looking for a no frills board, it's the one.
>> NJDevilsFan21 -- I might be interested in purchasing them, I'm not sure yet. I'll know after Monday, or hopefully by then (contacted Gigabyte and asked whether or nut cutting the back plate voids warranty).
>> Also, was the sealed bag they were in very small?
The sealed bag was about 1.25"x1". It was loose in the box with the other cable bags (the nut bag was not in a bigger bag - a bad idea, but it is the way they did it). The nuts are about 1/4" diameter, by 3/8" long.
Regarding warranty and the back plate... let's be logical: If you can remove it (and, say, discard it) and continue to be under warranty, then you can remove it and modify it any way you want.
Since the Crazy Cool backplate can only be beneficial, if there is a way to modify it that will fit your special cooler, then do that.
Here's a brilliant idea for all those people who want to remove the backplate entirely, but don't have the nuts:
1. Make your own nuts out of the crazy cool (logically, the crazy cool could be considered, itself, several nuts assembled with a whole bunch of other metal)
2. Identify the parts of the crazy cool you need to retain the screws.
3. Using a hacksaw, Dremel, or something else, cut everything off around the crazycool threaded holes that you don't need/interferes with your other stuff. Leave enough metal around the threaded holes to make the resulting metal nut-shaped. Copper is soft, so it cuts like butter with the right tools.
4. Voila. Your "threaded holes" have become your missing "nuts".
Bit of a newbie here with this board.
I am more experienced with Asus boards
Has anyone got this P35-DS4 and an E6320 (4mb)?
I managed only 400FSB, I am not that clued in with the finesses of this board.
Running Crucual Ballistix tracers 6400 2gigs
And bios F5g
:D
Has anyone reach over 550fsb on DQ6 board ?
I thought about just separating the entire NB chunk away from the main CPU part, that way I could still get some Crazy Cool under the NB. :cool:Quote:
Here's a brilliant idea for all those people who want to remove the backplate entirely, but don't have the nuts:
1. Make your own nuts out of the crazy cool (logically, the crazy cool could be considered, itself, several nuts assembled with a whole bunch of other metal)
2. Identify the parts of the crazy cool you need to retain the screws.
3. Using a hacksaw, Dremel, or something else, cut everything off around the crazycool threaded holes that you don't need/interferes with your other stuff. Leave enough metal around the threaded holes to make the resulting metal nut-shaped. Copper is soft, so it cuts like butter with the right tools.
4. Voila. Your "threaded holes" have become your missing "nuts".