Acctually some ppl get completely different effect when doing exactly as u did....
Printable View
Acctually some ppl get completely different effect when doing exactly as u did....
so there could be variations between different boards.hmmmmmmm.Quote:
Originally Posted by Angelico_Payne
Like many people who have posted in this thread I just got my P5B-Deluxe today and I'm hoping to set it up tonight. I currenlty have eVGA's 680i A1 and I'm probably going to replace it with the Asus board. I have browsed through many P5B threads looking over the general info to get a better idea about the board as it's all new to me. Before I start the build I was curious what chipset drivers people are currenlty using on this board? The eVGA board was my first ever Intel board and since it uses Nvidia chipsets it was fairly easy to figure out. Should I just use the drivers included on "installtion CD" or try to find a newer version? Thanks guys for helping me to get started!
Psyire,
Wow, that is exactly the thread I was looking for, lol! Thank you very much for posting that linky as I was having a difficult time! With that said I just finished reading that thread but still have a question. I only use a single SATAII Seagate 400GB HDD, well do I have to use the JMicron or can I just use the southbridge SATA connector?
Question for you guys,
Recently got an upgrade for my computer:
-Intel E6600
-ASUS P5B Deluxe (upgraded to the latest BIOS)
-Super Talent 2GB DDR2 800Mhz 4-4-3-8 (2x1GB)
-Hyper Type R 580W PSU
-Gigabyte GV-NX76T256D-RH (Nvidia GeForce 7600GT)
The first P5B Deluxe I had was v1.10G and as I was slowly overclocking it to test it, I got up to 3.2Ghz (400Mhz x 8.0) and the motherboard crapped out - smelled burning plastic, and when I turned it back on it would power on for a second, then turn back off, turn back on and then sit there but I didn't see any video or get any beep codes.
So I RMA'ed it to newegg and got a second board, this time it was v1.03G. Same damn problem happened! Except this time no smell of burning plastic and I can't find anything physically wrong with the board.
I'm not 100% sure that this board is bad, so rather than do another RMA, I was hoping maybe someone had an idea of what might be wrong? I unplugged everything from the system, right now I just have 1 stick of RAM in the system - tried multiple memory slots, CPU, and the video card plugged in. Tried resetting the BIOS of course, pulled the battery, switched the jumper..
I tried unplugging everything but the power and just powering on the motherboard - I heard that resets it to the factory defaults? After I did this though the system doesn't do the power up once, turn off and power back on. It just powers up and never POSTS, no beep codes, nothin ...
Anyone have any ideas other than trying to RMA and get another board (I think if I go for another board it won't be an ASUS one this time around though!).
have you taken the motherboard out and put it naked on your desk? it could be you're shorting the motherboard out in the case
Quote:
Originally Posted by Liquid Ice
Have you tested or tried another PSU? Is it possible the smell is coming from the PSU and not the mobo?
Thanks for the advice guys. I haven't tried taking the motherboard out ... I don't think I'm shorting anything out -- The motherboard is replacing an older one and everything bolted right up so I think its cool. But I will try removing it just to see if it makes it any happier.
I'm thinking the PSU could be the culprit here -- I'm not sure, I am not seeing anything bad on the motherboard voltage monitors, everything is within spec.
If I replace the PSU what would be a good PSU to go with to replace it? I was originally looking at Seasonic but got the Hiper because I thought the idea of a modular PSU was nice.
So I went out and bought an Antec TruePower 650W PSU from BestBuy today to see if that fixes anything. Also took the motherboard out and put it on my desk, no luck, same power on / power off problem. Also tried some A-Data DDR800 RAM real quick to see if it helps -- No luck so far. I'm thinking this is just the 2nd board I've gotten thats bad :( ...
Def try the next one out the case. We've done it so many times, but it gives you that extra piece of mind. Here's to hoping you get a good one soon. BTW, the 1.10G (p5b-e premium) newegg sent me's running 425x8 w/ slighty increased voltages right now, so don't give up hope.
Anybody's got a P965 C2 chipset revision of this board? Any revision later than 1.03G is suppose to be C2 but one user who owns a 1.04G and he told me his is still C1, so who knows. Is there a rev. 1.10G or is that just for the P5B-E? If your P5B Deluxe WiFi-Ap is C2, tell me where you got yours, I want one, too.
Yes, mine's a C2, but I don't fully understand the difference.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...rboards/c2.jpg
Where did you get yours? What revision is yours, exactly (ie: 1.04G, 1.10G, etc...)?Quote:
Originally Posted by Jodiuh
Alright thanks to Psyire I was able to finally get my P5B-Deluxe up and running! I was pretty happy because despite struggling with setting up and configuring my darn SATA II HDD everything booted right up with no issues, and Windows also loaded with no problems! For the first time I also decided to setup the motherboard up outside the case on my desktop, that way it's easy to reconfigure and mess around with it. It was a bit difficult to setup my watercooling system (it would probably be easier when system is setup on desktop to just use air cooling) but it just runs so much cooler this way!
In anycase I just wanted to let you know that my board is a C1 revision and a 1.03G. I am also curious about where and what version these C2 boards are. Although I got a great deal on this board I kinda wish I would have gone with the Commando, it's basically the P5B with better voltage control?
Do u have the pci-e 1x prob?Quote:
Originally Posted by Jodiuh
So what seems to be the best 2X1GB kits for this board? My Corsair C3s decided to go bad this week........
Someone on another board told me that the ASUS P5B Deluxe when the JumperFree is set to manual -- the voltages if set to auto, will automatically increase as you increase your overclock. They increase to the point where you can overheat the Northbridge and Southbridge and end up frying the board ...
Is this true? On all other boards I've owned, "auto" for voltages means keep it at whatever the stock setting is. When I was attempting to overclock my first two P5B-D's, I used "auto" for everything. This time around for my 3rd board, I've set everything to the minimum and I've been overclocking the board so far with no problems... *cross fingers*
I have read the same thing Liquid Ice about the P5B but havn't tested it myself. My eVGA 680i will also increase the voltages when set to "Auto" if you manually increase the CPU overclock (the SPP, MCP, FSB, and CPU voltages will all increase when set to "Auto"). I just flashed my P5B to the new 1004 BIOS and decided to set all voltages to lowest value instead of leaving at "Auto" just incase. I'll post back later if I find out that voltages will increase when set to "Auto" if you manually increase CPU speed.
Hi every one.... in a few days i'm going to have some new part in my ring.
Intel Core 2 Duo e600 (no steping yet) Which is the better?
And msi nx7950 gx2.
Other parts are 2gb (2x1gb) dual channel Corsair XMS2 DDR2 800 (4-4-4-12)c4 v2.1, zalman CNPS9500LED for the c2d, ASUS P5B Deluxe WIFI-AP (no mod) and a PS PowerCooler PS-550WATTS Plug-in.
So please tell me some stepping for the e6600....
In the asus have 0910 bios version... it's ok? for the e6600? and other parts? or which do you recommend?
GEIL 4-4-4-12 800MHZ 2.1v ULL. I have 2x 1GB of these sticks and also 2 x 512mb corsair xms2.Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottFern
Which bios are you using? I had that issue as well and had to wait for a newer bios. I'm using 0910 and that seems to work just fine with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by pumbertot
Well I just got this board a few days ago and have really enjoyed it so far! I have read many threads about the vdroop on this board but it wasn't until last night when I pulled my DMM out and actually measured it! At 3.6Ghz and the BIOS set to 1.45v the actual measured idle voltage was only 1.422v. Then under load (Orthos Small-FFT's) the voltage drops to 1.374v, that is crazy vdroop! Have you guys experienced this high level of droop? I guess this stresses the importance of the vdroop mod! Anyway I know you guys have read hundreds of posts about vdroop but I didn't realize how bad it was until I acutally tested!
Yes, till I changed my power supply. It still under volts but I set it higher in the bios.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger_D25
Hi everyone.. i'm runing e4300 onto asus p5b deluxe wifi-ap.....
a friend told me that i must to flash the bios to 1004 versions because this version fix some problem of temperatures reading and other things that i don't remeber. i was runing 0910 but sometimes cpu-z read bad the multi or speed. so i flash bios version. that's it true?
Well now i'm trying to overclock my rig, but i can't put sincronic FSB:DRAM because mother could set up the lowest frecuency 533mhz for the ram, so when fsb is 200, ram and micro are asincronic (3:4)
Sorry about my english!
Sorry, what problem? EDIT: Wait, you mean the main PCI-e 16x switching to 1x? If so, I've never experienced this on any P5B Deluxe.Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeBar
Rev 1.10GQuote:
Originally Posted by jcniest5
Hey need some help.
I was running orthos, and I didn't have the cpu seated correctly, guess it overheated and restarted, but wouldn't post. So reseated heatsink, and did a 24 hour reset and still wouldn't post. Not sure what to do next, so I rma'ed the board, got the replacement, and still won't post, tried with a 1 stick of ram too. Is the cpu toast? Or is there something else I should try ?
if you didn't have the CPU seated correctly, I'm surprised it booted in the first place.
rvd,
Do you happen to have a different motherboard kicking around to try the CPU in (just to make sure it works)? If the CPU is working fine than I would check the PSU to make sure it's working properly, infact it might be quicker and easier to test the PSU first to rule it out. There is a chance that when the CPU was mounted incorrectly that it caused some issues with power supply? I am probably wrong but it's easy enough to test and rule out. Good luck!
Okay whoops made a mistake, this is what I meant to say.
The heatsink wasn't mounted properly and I was running orthos, and the cpu overheated and automatically restarted. I remounted the heatsink, and the mobo wouldn't post. So I did a 24 hour rest, and it still wouldn't post. So rma'ed the board, got the replacement, and still can't get it to post, you know get all the lights, and fans, but nothing else.
Maybe your CPU is dead...
Ah, now I see rvd. That is a much different situation than incorreclty mountin the CPU in the socket, lol! Well there is usually fail-safes inplace for overheating, hence why the board shut-down. I'm suprised you weren't able to reboot because the fail-safe should have reset itself?
They just put out a new ASUS PC Probe II V1.04.12
Thanks a bunch chuckbam, much apprecaited!
What are the improvements from v1.04.10?Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckbam
Anyways, here's my current setup. Haven't had time to really tweek it but a NC-06 is on the way along with some mosfet coolers and by summer I'll be maxing this board out.
* Processor: C2D 6700
* Bios Revision: 0303
* Memory: Corsair xms2 8500 C5 (running at 800mhz)
* Configured Voltages: vCore:1.4, vFSB:1.05?, vNB1.2 (a lot of auto voltage still)
* Configured FSB: 330
* Configured Ratio: 4:5
* Configured Memory Timings:4-4-4-10 2.1v
* had to raise my SB and ICH to get all USB and HDD to work.
I'm pretty busy these days working on the machine so I can't affort to F around with it and find a better OC. I'll get to that soon, though.
Hmm, I'll try giving this new asusprobe a shot. Hopefully it's fixed the wave volume to 0 error and the occasional voltage/temp errors, where it'd detect bogus voltage or temp, and sound off the alarm. Even though it only happens for one reading, the siren keeps sounding until you click ok. Really irritating
This board fried 2 sticks of ram and also fried itself, What a pity :(. So I got another board and no problems so far. This board is good but is too sensitive. I changed the north bridge and south bridge heatsink tried to boot it and nothing happened. I think Asus is the responsible for that, anyway it looks like just another batch of craps P5B Deluxe.
Why would Asus be responsible for you changing the NB and SB heatsinks and the board being dead now?Quote:
Originally Posted by Metroid
I just picked up a refurb p5b-deluxe from Newegg for $108 shipped. I cleaned the NB and SB and replace the stock garbage TIM with Arctic Ceramique, this thing is hauling ass with my E6300. I pulled the Asus cover off the NB sink and stuck a 50MM fan on it, also, I did the pencil vdroop mod which works like a charm...these boards just kick ass!
http://www.3dxtreme.net/other/Asus%2...3590-1.38v.jpg
Hello all,
I seem to be having trouble overclocking on my P5B deluxe. I did have a E6400 on a P5B deluxe, but then due to a stupid mistake, the mobo blew, so I had to get a replacement. On the first board, I could get up to about 505FSB, and the CPU up to about 3.8Ghz. On this replacement board however, I can't do anything! As soon as I try and change a setting in the Bios and reboot, it simply doesn't post. I can't even overclock by 1mhz. Im sure ive set everything how I should. Any suggestions? :confused:
Messiah Khan,
Do you know what BIOS your new replacment P5B is running at the moment? There is always a chance the BIOS is an old one and not as capable, then again it sounds like your problem is something more than just a BIOS version issue?
Hi, My Problem is When i click Shut down my computer just doesnt shut down...
all my drives stops but my fan and cpu is still working i think...
imo this is hibernating but why the hell it is hibernating when i click shutdown?
think of it as a turbo timer. have you ever waited 10 seconds after the hdd spins down? the system shuts
You running Vista?Quote:
Originally Posted by qgshadow
dnottis, which pencil vdroop mod? I've been searching for vmods for the p5b dlx without a solder iron. how stable is it when you pencil? because i've heard that pencil modding isnt that stable.
I'm eager to kill this board so i have a excuse to get a new one and RMA this :D
yes i do run vista and no it doesnt shut down after 10seconds :\Quote:
Originally Posted by szukalski
Vista Can't shut down a computer now?
The one the board came with was something like 0850, but now ive updated it to 0910, which is what my last board was using and its still the same.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger_D25
Ive done a bit of playing around today. Ive managed to set everything ready for overclocking, i ive disabled vanderpool technology, disabled speedstap, sat Ram to manual, etc etc. And it posts. So ive started to slowly up the FSB, and it works for a while... up to about 340FSB. Then it simply refuses to post after that. Its not the strap blackhole coming into play either, as it doesn't post on 401, 420, 450 etc. One thing ive nboticed as well, is that when I set, say 420FSB, it doesn't actually reboot. The screen goes black as if its going to reboot, but the power stays on. So then i have to switch it off and on, which obviusly resets the overclock.:confused:
Messiah Khan,
Wow so your topping out at only 340Mhz on the FSB, that is very low! This leads me to think that something is definetly going on, especially since your board refuses to post after that point? I imagine you have tested some of your other hardware like (PSU, graphics card, etc..) to make sure their not causing the problems? By the way what processor are you running, if your running a quad core than 340FSB is much more resonable but if your running a regular C2D than something is going on?
On a separate note I recently purchased a used P5B-Deluxe motherboard here at XS Forums that might replace my eVGA 680i depending on how comfortable I get with it and how the performance is after testing. Although I love the board, the low voltage capability of the board along with the nasty CPU vdroop makes testing difficult once you really start to push things.
Anyway I decided to grow some balls and try the vdroop pencil mod (although I'm not an expert I have done both solder/solderless mods in the past). Well after reading through some theads I went for it. Fortunetly I have a very nice DMM which increased the safety factor greatly! The vdroop resistor measured 80.2OkOhms before modding. I dropped the resistance down to 25.01kohms using an HB pencil and my vdroop pretty much went away!
I should add that I only tested with voltage values in BIOS set to 1.45v, there is a good chance that if you run more or less voltage in BIOS that your results will differ? From my testing I would imagine that the lower the VCORE value you set in BIOS the less vdroop you'll measure, and visa-versa with higher VCORE values.
Pre-Pencil Mod:
VCORE (BIOS Setting): 1.45v
Actual Idle VCORE: 1.422v-1.416v
Actual Load VCORE: 1.397v-1.394v (Orthos Small-FFT)
Post-Pencil Mod:
VCORE (BIOS Setting): 1.45v
Actual Idle VCORE: 1.449v-1.447v
Actual Load VCORE: 1.448v-1.444v
(alright the CPU Vdroop isn't completly gone but those results are just amazing as far as I'm concerned, especially for about 10min modding time)! So thank you very much guys)! Here is the link to the pencil mod I used and I think that this might be the same one that dnottis used ju stin but I'm not sure?
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...2&postcount=17
vdroop pencil can be unstable if you don't blow the area afterwards. there's a lot of graphite dust that accumulates everywhere. Other than that, the only possible downside to graphite is that it may wear out.Quote:
Originally Posted by justin_c
Good point ziddey, while I was applying the pencil mod I used two important items, canned air and also my trusty DMM! I started by applying a few lines of lead, then using the canned air I thoroughly blew around the area. I then remeasured the resistance value (which increased because of blowing the access lead dust off), so I applied a 2nd application. I just continued doing this until I got the resistance value I wanted, then you know you've blown all the access lead dust off so you shouldn't have any problems down the road!
This pencil mod -Quote:
Originally Posted by justin_c
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=116574
I agree, I did the mod and blew some compressed air over that area to get rid of any excess.
Here's a couple screenies after vdroop mod which were not possible beforehand without increaseing voltage upwards of 1.4625v! If I had set BIOS to 1.45v (BIOS) before mod Orthos would crap out within 2hrs at both of the following settings, now their pretty much 100% stable!
http://img393.imageshack.us/img393/7...tablvk3.th.jpg
http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/178...one7hw0.th.jpg
*I do have the active screen of Orthos right before I hit "Stop", just incase anyone was curious!
Yea, pencil mod rocks hard. 1.375v in bios gets me 1.38 loaded LOL. Before load would drop to 1.34v, sometimes 1.328v. After mod when I load it actually jumps up a touch.
wow, that's not even too bad. before mod, i was setting 1.425 for 1.30 under load.
Yeah this board certainly had the worst droop that I had ever seen before! I know alot of people have brought this up before, but wouldn't something like this come up during the testing phase of bringing a new product to market (Back when the P5B-Deluxe first got released)? This is pretty serious and could/has caused many issues over the years? Well I'm just curios if there are some real reasons behind it?
it doesn't seem like a big deal, as long as it doesn't droop too much running stock at stock set volts.
Help anyone - I have a SATA drive on the Intel ports disappearing once in a while after the computer has been shut down or in sleep mode. My boot drive is also on the Intel ports and it is not disappearing. I switched ports and the problem went away for a couple of days, but just occurred again. Maybe it's some sleep mode Windows screw-up that's causing the drive not to be woken back up?
BTW, I am not overclocked right now. It started getting hot a week ago and I decided to see how happy I was saving electricity...
Sounds like a windows or bios problem.
Mine does this also, but much preferable to the droop. At 1.4625 in bios, I would be all the way down to 1.39 at load. It's nice to be able to set voltage in bios and actually have it be at that setting.Quote:
Originally Posted by dnottis
NAME: ASUS P5B-Deluxe/Wifi-AP v1101 Bios
WEB :ASUS
Download :ASUS P5B-Deluxe/Wifi-AP v1101 Bios
Support OS:All Windows
Power BIOS
Freeware / Shareware
[ 1101 ]
----------------------
1 Add new uCode to support new CPU.
2 Fix system won't complete POST with GV-MVP/RZ2(TV tuner) connected and power on before motherboard.
Well someone probe it? i don't what to do...Quote:
Originally Posted by sxs112
I'm runing e4300 so what i must to do?
vdroop...
Why all the fuss? Does the voltage wander or something, causing random crashes? Wouldn't that be a bigger problem? Does it wander less after the pencil mod?
I'm not sure why you would be able to get a higher overclock with this pencil mod, as 'actual' voltages are the same. Can anybody explain this to me please?
Can someone download de bios file and atach it here?
The link is not working for me. Thx!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Psyire
Re-read some of the posts.
My own experience.
Before Pencil mod - BIOS 1.4v, idle 1.36 - load 1.34v
After Pencil mod - BIOS 1.4v, idle 1.402v - load 1.412v
There is a drop in voltages, it causes crashes and orthos to die because, there is droop. Once modded there is less resistance and less droop.
You bring up a good point Psyire but having a more stable VCORE can help with overclocking because you don't have to estimate where your VCORE will be when CPU is under load so you don't have to compensate when setting VCORE in BIOS! Plus the voltage droop isn't linear so it's quite difficult to know right where it will be once under load. Plus there are many people who don't have access to a DMM and won't have any idea what their CPU voltage actually is under load (since the BIOS and monitoring programs all say something different)! Granted your CPU overclock shouldn't change in theory because as you say "the actual CPU voltage is the same" but in practice that is not the case.
Alright, thanks for clearing that up for me. Makes much more sense now...
E6600, P5B-Deluxe here
For some of these settings I don't know what to put, so I just went with Auto. But I'd like to know if I should leave them at auto or set them to something (and if so, what).
And also for the settings that I actually did put in a value, are they correct?
AI Tuning --> Manual
CPU Frequency --> 333
DRAM Frequency --> DDR2-667MHz
PCI Express Frequency --> 100
PCI Clock Synchronous Mode --> 33.33MHz
Spread Spectrum --> Disabled
Memory Voltage --> 2.25V
CPU VCore Voltage --> 1.4000V
FSB Termination Voltage --> 1.400V
NB VCore --> Auto
SB Vcore (SATA, PCIE) --> Auto
ICH Chipest Voltage -- Auto
THANKS
If i'm not mistaken, you might want to back your fsb down to 332 so the mobo doesn't switch over to the 1333 strap. Personally, if I had your processor I'd go for at least 360-370 fsb.Quote:
Originally Posted by bloodandsoil
Well I'd certainly appreciate feedback about the strap issue. Don't know anything about that.
I may increase FSB later on, but for now I just want to shoot for a mild overclock and run it that way for awhile.
it won't switch strap until 400.
I'd much rather try and run 8x400 1:1 with ram for maximum performance on 1066 strap on that board.
yep strap starts above 400Mhz
hy guys
where I can download the SoundMAX Audio Driver v5.10.01.6110 for win xp 32bit?
the asus' server is too busy
Bios 1101 os out !
Version 1101 2007/04/04 update
Description P5B Deluxe Release BIOS 1101
1 Add new uCode to support new CPU.
2 Fix system won''t complete POST with GV-MVP/RZ2(TV tuner) connected and power on before motherboard.
File Size 808.78 (KBytes)
Nothing much exiting there. I'll wait for the next one, unless someone finds some more info on this update.Quote:
Originally Posted by supervillain
I'm at 8x400 since a few days (stable up to now) so I'm happy.
R.
what is faster? (because of the strap...)
FSB400 @ DDR800 @ 3.6GHz
or
FSB475 @ DDR950 @ 3,8Ghz
????
Hi,
on next 2 days to me coming thos MB
can you post me link for actual drivers for this MB (inf, sata drive atd.) or can I use soft from cd to MB - think that this driver will be old.
thx
/edit:
and yet one question, how is it with this mobo with undervoltage, read some words, that this one go down 0,05 ... I mean if set in bios 1,45 real is 1,4 isit ?
I'd say 475MHz, 3.8GHz.Quote:
Originally Posted by lew187
Quote:
Originally Posted by NickS
I agreee, the higher cpu speed will probabaly show more benefits.
Yep, I agree too. You can run one EVEREST ram write test and you'll see the diferenceQuote:
Originally Posted by xgman
Had to RMA my board (P5B Deluxe v1.03G) to newegg and just got my replacement today. This board has 1004 Bios vs. 0804 on my old board.
MBM5 has my 5.0v line at 4.22v? Any ideas?? Everything else is good. I think I installed a patch for MBM5 voltages some time ago, but have no idea where/what I did... it was a long time ago. All other MBM readings are good.
5.0v line is 5.02v in bios and ASUS PC Probe II.
I wouldn't worry too much about the MBM voltage reading cdelong, historically software monitors havn't been very accurate overall! Granted some are better than others, but as a whole their usually more accurate at measuring temperature/vorltage deltas! I image your 5v rail is fine, but it would be best to test with DMM if possible.
the 5v rail is fine in the bios and Asus PC Probe. I imagine it is just the newer bios. I tweaked the MBM custom voltage to match my bios/PC probe at 5.02v. I had to change the *1.57 to *1.88 and all is well.
Bump on this question. Still don't know what the proper settings should be mainly for NB Vcore, SBVcore, and ICH Chipset Voltage.Quote:
Originally Posted by bloodandsoil
PS. E6600, P5B-Deluxe, Crucial 1GB x 2 DDR2-800
You're asking this question everywhere eh?
1.2vfsb, 1.25vnb, 1.5vsb, 1.057vich
For a few months now I've got some rare system lockups with my p5b delx board. The lockups only accur once a week or so, but I have got them a few times during some multiplayer gaming and that's getting annoying.
I can run 3dmark06, orthos, memtest, etc. for 10 hours at least without a glitch. Yesterday the lockup happened during normal internet browsing.
To start trying to solve the problem, I want to try to simulate normal desktop operations.
Is there some kind of benchmark/testing program out there to simulate normal user generated windows input. For instance:
1. office applications
2. internet explorer
3. network traffic
4. cpu load
5. etc.
And ofcourse do these problems sound familiar to other p5b dlx users.
I thought about voltage drooping, but that won't accur I think during normal desktopping (low cpu load).
Thanks
i have a fairly long problem.. ive explained it all in another forum but couldnt get a "definate" answer.. its probably easier if i link the thread i made since its alot of posts and ppl can see what other ppl have suggested etc.. its guru3d website so nothing dodgy :)
http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=220671&page=2
if you would rather i copy pasted everything out i will.. thought id just save you some forum space :P
Uh, just a suggestion, but have you tried restoring your BIOS to stock defaults and running the system for a few weeks?Quote:
Originally Posted by eyes.only
Uuh, the thought crossed my mind, but if I have no way of testing it, this is no option. Why else buy a asus overclocking board??Quote:
Originally Posted by bloodandsoil
Because maybe one if your settings are to high. Or not balanced with one of your other settings. You need to pull back. And start the overclocking processes over. First you need to see if it does it at no overclock. Save your current settings in you bios as a profile,Quote:
Originally Posted by eyes.only
What are your current settings?
My P5B seems very slow to perform the POST, before continuing to boot up the system. I'd estimate there are between 5 and 6 seconds of time pass, between turning the system on and the beep. Is this normal?
The fans etc. turn on immediately, and the system is otherwise fine, it's just the amount of time it takes to POST that has me concerned.
I've been out of the loop a while, it's been 3 years since I last built a machine, so this may be normal by today's standards. I was just expecting it to be a couple of seconds, rather then 5-6.
Anyone know what the deal is with the Realtek Wifi drivers on windows update?
Updated with latest 1101 BIOS and have had no issues so far.
I just tested it from a cold boot vs a re-start, It took about 6 seconds to get a bios beep. That did not seem long time to me.Quote:
Originally Posted by mk5652
eyes.only, you really need to post your current settings, including all voltages.
chuckbam, the p5b does take frustrating long. it's just something to get used to.
I have some RAM that will do 1200 5-5-4-12 @2.25v in a P5B Deluxe. I have a P5B deluxe. Mine will not even post most of the time if I have it set to 1200 with any strap.
I can run my e6300 at 500 FSB with the memory at 1:1, but at 300 FSB and 1200, or 360 and 1200, or 400 and 1200 or 450(?) and 1200 it just won't go.
At first I thought it was just the RAM, but, again, this is hand picked stuff, and it does work at 1200 in Dual Channel. Is there anything I can do to coax my board into actually liking this frequency?
have you tried more volts to the nb? how about trying a single stick first? what do your subtimings look like? chances are they might need some loosening. stock 10-10-10-11 isn't all too loose. static read disabled?
try 5-5-5-15-6-42-6-14-8-15 first and see if it shows any promise.
So today mb arrive to me, I am on work, tommorow will start in pc,Quote:
Originally Posted by mundi
what can at this momet read from cake ??
out of box is serial No. and part no. ...
and yet on case is P5B-Deluxe GREEN
what mean GREEN ??
near RAM slot is revize REV.1.10G
Haha, pull the sticker off.
Does anyone know a working dual PCI-e display adapter setup for P5B-Deluxe? I have Ati x1950pro and I need to have a third monitor attached, but due Vista's Aero, PCI adapter isn't an option. I haven't found anyone that can say anything for sure. Please help! I have tried x300 but that didn't work for an unknown reason. I don't have money to try something more expensive without knowing that it will work. And just for clarification: I'm not interested in crossfire, just having three Aero capable monitors.
what happened with the x300? it'd help to detail it a little bit.
fwiw, you can get 6200 / 7100gs cheap from newegg and use the other physical 16x port. if you look around newegg, you'll see there's some 7100gs that are as cheap as 6200.