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Well now You tell Me, I'm running My poor OCZ Gold pc8000 ram at 2:3 281/422MHz and timing of 4-4-4-10, I had to make a choice on ram, A little bit or enough for 3 PCs, 3 won out, But I'm still waitin on the 3rd cpu.:DQuote:
Originally Posted by nickfd
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickfd
That doesn't quite make sense to me. I'm running my xms2 8500 at 1050 2:3, stable. IF I back my ratio off to 1:1 and tighten timings up as much as possible with these sticks (4-4-4-10) I loose performance over my current settings.
I don't quite understand the memory SPD breakdown in CPUz but I don't trust everything CPUz displays.
Well, 1:1 @ 430FSB and running memory timings @ 3-3-3-4 Does actually work better than 1000 @ 4-4-4-8... for me at least and for some reason I can't get my memory to run 1000mhz on this board, so the comparison is between my old P5B deluxe and this.
Can you please post your settings (multiplier x fsb#:1050) ? I'm curious if I would be able to hit them with my mem so I could do some benchmarks, once I get my mem back from Corsair, of course.Quote:
Originally Posted by iadstudio
In all the testing I did with my mem/fsb ratios, nothing was as efficient as 1:1.
edit: need to know multiplier too plz.
Kyosen ghetto mod works very well. Resistor measures about 50Kohm unmodded. Found my 'sweet-point' to be aprox 21Kohm.Quote:
Originally Posted by iadstudio
Here's what I just posted for the extremeoverclocking.com database. It's got timings, memory ratio, fsb. I have the vmch at 1.65 and vfsb at 1.4.
I suppose If I had some sticks that could do 700mhz with CL3 that might best my current settings but these sticks won't go CL3 stable.
Not ideal I know but the best my parts will do, I think.
"Locked" Multipliers on Extreme Edition CPUs Issue Resolution:
Since BIOS v1602 Asus introduced us a new "feature" from their BIOS Coders ( sigh ), they managed to bug their BIOS so much as never before!
Now every Extreme Edition CPU owner has the "default" range of multipliers available [ 6-11 for X6800, 6-10 for QX6700 ].
BIOS v1602, v1707, v1801, v1803, v1804 suffer from this issue.
To get your multipliers back you need to go back to any previous BIOS release { earlier than 1602 ofcourse ) performing a full eeprom flash [ the Asus utils do not perform a full eeprom flash ]
Classy comment, I'll bet you get a lot of dates.Quote:
Originally Posted by factory81
Well I currently have my system with a good OC of 3.5ghz. The chip I have in it is a E6600. I have run prime stable for 14hours and a full load temp of 72C. However the problem I am having is when I place my raid card in my system on boot up Ali booster seems to go nuts and give errors about CPU Resource 3. Does anyone know what could be cause my Adaptec 2810SA using one pci slot to act like this.
Thanks
Isn't that a hardmod? I'm pretty sure he was referring to the breaking pencil tip ghetto mod for the p5wd2. It would be good if someone knows if that mod will work for the p5w dh. Do they even have the same chip for vreg?Quote:
Originally Posted by roger_h99.nor
It might be old fashioned, But I don't use Asus utils to flash a Bios, A 3.5" usb floppy drive works rather nicely with the right flashing program and a floppy of course. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by BenchZowner
My Favorite P5W bios, 1601.
I've just looked at the vCore as reported by speedfan, and it holds steady at about 1.52v (1.55 in BIOS).Quote:
Originally Posted by iadstudio
The NB and SB are both untouched, and I've not modified any part of the mobo. I could put some AS5 on both, and removing the heatsinks+heatpipe for application looks pretty easy (do you think?).
I'm only running 2x1gb RAM sticks - the Corsair model number is correct, but it's not 2x2048MB, it's just the "TWIN2X" range!
With regards to BIOS settings, yes I have everything like hyperpath, etc. disabled - infact all apart from the hardware DEP (I presume that makes no difference??).Quote:
Originally Posted by diction10
I'm considering selling/buying my C2D in an attempt to get a newer revision - where will I find the week build of my current processor (the batch number is L627A085)?
i've built yesterday a new rig for a friend and i have a stupid problem which i had years ago with my granite bay board. my friend uses four mobile hdds and every time he inserts one in the rack, the board changes the hdd boot priority so the new one is the first device. i searched the thread but could not find any answer to this very annoying problem. any suggestions?
Turn the Hdd's on AFTER you start the rig. Only solution I know.Quote:
Originally Posted by FCs
I would at least pull the SB and NB off and replace the TIM with Arctic Silver5 or something as long as it's not the ASUS stuff. IF you don't want to void the warranty just be careful not to mess the covers up. Taking the covers off will help quite a bit though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Seb R
Not sure if this is your specific problem but it helped me. I have an early week like yours (mine is a week 24 I think) and I too have a hard time reaching the higher OC's without going nuclear on the vcore. I have a 2 year warranty on the CPU so I'm going to wait until the end of my warranty to turn it in.
Has anyone had trouble with heat sinks using the standard snap-in mounts on this MB?
I have a quad-core QX6700 and a CoolerMaster Hyper TX. (I bought an OEM chip without a heat sink.) I've been having some issues and I think they're heat related.
Backing up a bit: when I first put the system together, I wasn't planning to OC anything, so I used the thermal pad that came with the heat sink. A few weeks later the computer would stall on startup -- after a couple of seconds you'd hear a fan kick into high gear, and nothing further would happen.
I thought it might be the motherboard shutting down the system because of excessive heat, so yesterday I detached the heat sink, cleaned everything, applied some Arctic Silver, and remounted it. It immediately booted with no problems. Temperatures went from 70C idle / 90C gaming to 52C/70C.
(My theory is that the bursts of heat soften the thermal grease, improving the conductivity, so it needed to try to start up a couple of times before it really got going. Until then, the thermometer just shut the CPU down a second or two into POST.)
Today it had some trouble booting, and I'm seeing 57C/80C. I'm wondering if the heat sink is sagging in its mount and pulling away from the MB.
Has anyone else seen this sort of issue with a P5W DH Deluxe?
Any suggestions on heat sinks if this just doesn't work out? I prefer the snap-in kind, since I won't have to pull the system apart to attach a backplate, but I'm starting to wonder if that's workable with this MB.
My apologies if this question is a little low-powered for this forum. :-) I had the opposite problem with a different LGA775 MB -- I had to press insanely hard to get the pegs to set -- but that system hasn't had any problems.
No, not the 'break-some-pencil lead-mod' . Kyosen has another mod, involving soldering a resistor - pencil it instead.Quote:
Originally Posted by triggerc
PW5DH and P5WD2 uses the same vreg-chip if I remember right.
Yup, us early adopters got shafted...do you find that you can get a moderate overclock at low vcore, but then it seems to plateau...and you need HUGE voltage for any gains?Quote:
Originally Posted by iadstudio
If you mean 3ghz stock volts (1.325) (real volts (1.375 bios)) then yeah, 3.2ghz = 1.475 bios/ 1.411 actual, 3.5ghz = 1.59v actualQuote:
Originally Posted by Shpoon
No t Exactly how mine turned out but pretty close. I've gotten mine stable at 1.53v actual but the 3gh to 3.3ghz jump for me was 1.325v to 1.5v.Quote:
Originally Posted by lawrywild
Just curious, does the droop normally get larger the more volts you push?
can anyone point to me which transistor to pencil for the vdroop mod? I'm really lost. I know it is one of the ones in the upper right, but I don't know which one.
http://img471.imageshack.us/img471/7...roopmod3td.jpg
Anyone found a fix for the slowly decaying performance issue other than changing boards?
Who is using the turbo lookalike cooler for the heatpipe/mosfets?
This thing is noisy!! :mad:
This afternoon i held it still with my finger and was pleasantly suprised how silent it became. :)
I decided to take it off, much quiter now but under load, the mosfet cooling part is getting pretty hot to the touch.
Anyone with a neat solution?
What slowly decaying performance issue might that be? :confused:Quote:
Anyone found a fix for the slowly decaying performance issue other than changing boards?
I was able to boot & bench at 450fsb+ but then after a little while I couldn't boot at anything over 448. Now I can't boot at anything over 446fsb. If I boot at 400fsb and glockgen up if I go over 446fsb it locks up... I know nicepun had the same issue as well as a few others...
Ahhhh.. Gotcha. 350x10 will give you 525 mem. When Corsair will send me back my sticks, I'll try doing 350x9 and doing the 2:3. I know if I use my 385x9 that I have as my daily clock (which cannot really go any higher in overall cpu mhz-3500mhz), I cannot really go above the 1:1.Quote:
Originally Posted by iadstudio
Thanks for the info.
:D :toast: Personally, I love girls like this. Guess it's just taste! I've already come to terms that I will not find an intellectually matched female with my own education, so playing the field with fun girls works just fine for me right now. If that means tennis shoes or a tattoo on the lowerback, it's all the same goodness to me. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by russea
Hi. I'd uninstall AIBooster right now and just scrap that worthless software. You can get temperature/voltage information from Speedfan.Quote:
Originally Posted by darkstar757
Does your Adaptec card work like it should and not throw up any errors in any other software?
Removing the current heatsinks and putting AS5 is a good idea. If you want to replace the stock heatsinks with recommendations in lawry's first post, that's even better. My only warning is be gentle/careful with the hooks that hold the NB in place, cause they're only soldered in, and very poorly at that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Seb R
For week of your chip, it's the 3rd/4th character over. L627A -> week 27 revision A. Anything A and under week 32 is iffy on hitting high clocks without serious extreme cooling and a TON of voltage. If you can, try to get a week 32+ B, since they seem to require the least amount of voltage and aren't walled as low as the chips the earlier one are.
Best of luck.
Good luck getting Intel to warranty your CPU. I tried talking to them into exchanging my CPU when i was having issues and they basically were doing the blame-game and pointing to every other piece of hardware in my box. They would not even think about warranty'ing the CPU until you basically replaced every other piece of hardware in your box.Quote:
Originally Posted by iadstudio
I'd say test every other piece of hardware in your box before you think its the board. Like i mentioned in an earlier post, my decaying performance ended up being one of my sticks of memory rather than the board or the CPU.Quote:
Originally Posted by INJViper
Between where the yellow and orange cable is soldered. (It's a resistor there - Kyosen removed it in the picture). Pencil it to aprox 25 Kohm - measure idle voltage and load voltage. If droop under load is observed, try 20 Kohm.Quote:
Originally Posted by triggerc
there is noway i can read through 146 pages, so i just want to ask, is there problems with posting when using specific memory modules?
I have a problem thats only just arisen, it started with booting problems for about a week where it would cold boot, now its become increasinly difficult to bring it to life, right now i'm on with one stick of ram and only just about managed to post. I think something is dieing, either the memory or motherboard, anyone have any ideas which one is more likely?
Not sure why you're having problems with the memory ratio but if you can't reach 2:3 with your clock try 4:5. From What I've heard, that's the preferred ratio if you're not at 1:1. IF your clock is 385 then 4:5 might be 850ish? I wouldn't sacrifice CPU speed for memory, at least not with these chips. Try 435x8 (if you can reach that) and go with 1:1 or 4:5 before you back your chip down.Quote:
Originally Posted by nickfd
This was my first OC experience so I though the Corsair8500 was the best choice but I was wrong. If I could do it over I would get some ultra low latence pc2 6400 sticks. Can't complain too much though, I get a 14.6 sec super pi 1m with my current settings. Gotta love the P5W !!! Clock for clock it (and a few other ASUS 965/975 boards) really does outperform most boards.
I'd start looking at whatever you had the most volts into.Quote:
Originally Posted by neologan
It won't be easy for me but I got warranty from Microcenter (retailer) when I bought the chip. I have about a year and a half to figure out how to fry the chip within the terms of my aftermerket warranty. I'm pretty sure I can just start it up without the heatsink and call it a day. I'll get a gift card for the original purchase price and put that towards whatever's out then.Quote:
Originally Posted by nickfd
I wonder if the 45nm chips will work on this board?:rolleyes:
And I'm pretty sure that they will be able to tell that you have done so and also call it a day :rolleyes: Have you ever inspected an Intel chip that's been run bare and overheated?Quote:
I'm pretty sure I can just start it up without the heatsink and call it a day.
I'm pretty sure it's impossible to do...Quote:
Originally Posted by scaramonga
You need the pressure of a heatsink to make LGA775 cpu's work.
If you simply take off the heatsink, the cpu won't start.
Overvolting is possible, but if your luck runs out, your northbridge will die too...
I can get 3.1 @1.325 stable, 1.3125 (BIOS all) semi-stable (crashes doing the weirdest things).Quote:
Originally Posted by lawrywild
3.2+ needs an insane amount...can't even reach 3.3....at 1.55V, it doesn't even post...
To be honest, I have no idea how to go about it. I could have gotten the accidental damage warranty for $300+ and it would be no questions asked. Instead I got the $99 Bronze plan that covers product failure.
If one were so inclined to facilitate product failure NOT due to operator negligence, how would one do that? I don't think microcenter will scrutinize the claim as much as Intel would but it has to look reasonable.
I'd rather not fry the mobo to but if it happens, ooh well. As long as it happens after I fry the CPU.
HS without TIM?Quote:
Originally Posted by OneyedK
Thanks man, didn't completely get rid of the droop, but I got the load and idle to be with in .01v, which is all that matters. :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by roger_h99.nor
Can you post pics? Please.Quote:
Originally Posted by triggerc
Picks for the lower droop? or pics for where to pencil?
Pics of your mobo with the pencil mod. I want to do the same and since you've successfully done it...Quote:
Originally Posted by triggerc
...less chance for me to screw up if I have pics. I'm a complete noob to OCing and this'll be my first voltage mod.
Hope you don't mind the crude drawing
the resistor you pencil is the one circled in yellow, the lower of the two resistors in the set. The resistor is located around the area in between the upper right mounting hole for the cpu and the top middle mounting hole for the motherboard.
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/7...pmodrw2.th.jpg
I would sharpen a pencil and blow it with some compressed air after every couple strokes to make sure that the only graphite on there are the ones staying on.
Thanks, but no pics of your mobo? I've never done a mod before and would like to see a pic if I can. I thought you were talking about a conductive pen.Quote:
Originally Posted by triggerc
Naaah, cpu runs fine with HS without TIM, just 10 or 15°C hotter.Quote:
Originally Posted by iadstudio
And if you stop the HS-fan, the cpu will simply halt without destroying itself...
Just play it fair man, sell the cpu to someone who wants to use it stock or mildly overclocked...
Speedfan will show the CPU Vcore (and seems to be accurate), however for temps it's best to use coretemp or TAT.Quote:
Originally Posted by nickfd
Blimey that seems worse than mine. I have a wk 24a ! What are your BIOS settings ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Shpoon
Over the weekend I got mine 9 hours Orthos stable (CPU and Mem test, blend?) using CPU Vcore of 1.55V (actual 1.52-1.53) and FSB of 389 (3.5Ghz). Memory at 2.1V. After 9 and bit hours Windows blue screened with MACHINE_CHECK_EXCEPTION, but I never use my PC for 9 hours!
What hardness of pencil did you use?......how many strokes?Quote:
Thanks man, didn't completely get rid of the droop, but I got the load and idle to be with in .01v, which is all that matters.
to nickfd:Quote:
Originally Posted by nickfd
Thanks for the explanation. I wonder does Linux handle multi-core processor better?
I just did the mod and the droop has got a lot less. :)
Prior to the mod, i saw CPU-Z reporting Vcore going down as low as 1.392V while i had set it to 1.4375V in bios.
This was when running Orthos small fft's.
After i did the mod, i set Vcore to 1.425V (so, a tad lower) and now the lowest CPU-Z reports is 1.408V.
So prior to the mod i needed 1.4375V in bios to get Orthos stable at 3.6GHz due to Vdroop, now i can do the same with 1.425V.
It's just not that the Vcore doesn't fluctuate anymore, it still does but it does not get as low as it used to.
I see there's some misconception about the Vdroop pencil mod, let me explane how to do it:
Locate the resistor in the picture, it's somewhere at the northside of the board.
Take a Digital multimeter and measure resistance of this resistor, mine was 50Kohms.
Just take a soft pencil and stroke the resistor a number of times, now measure again.
Repeat untill it reads 25Kohms.
Make sure there's no graphite particles elsewhere on the board before firing up.
This mod is done at your own risk.
Sit back and enjoy.
Most Linux distros are built by default to handle SMP (up to 256 cores!). I'm on Kubuntu and its purring right along...Quote:
Originally Posted by Krusty
Nice one Zeus! :toast:Quote:
I see there's some misconception about the Vdroop pencil mod, let me explane how to do it:
Thanks for a decent explanation at last. :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeus
Glad it worked! But you haven't found your mobos 'sweet-point' yet. Mine dosen't droop at all running Orthos. The only stresstest where I notice droop is TAT. Try lower it to about 20Kohm.
FSB: xxxQuote:
Originally Posted by Phoenix_TT
Memory Voltage: 2.15V
CPU Vcore Voltage: xxx
FSB Termination: 1.5v
MCH Chipset Voltage: 1.60
ICH Chipset Voltage: 1.2
Freqs are 33.33 and 109.
Memory using SPD
DRAM ECC Mode: Disabled
Hyper Path 3: Disabled
DRAM Throttling Threshold: Disabled
Advanced CPU settings:
Modify Ratio Support: Disabled
Microcode Updation: Enabled
Max CPUID Value Limit: Disabled
Execute Disable Function: Disabled
Enhanced C1 Control: Disabled
CPU Internal Thermal Control: Disabled
Virtualization Technology: Disabled
Intel (R) SpeedStep (tm) tech: Disabled
hi m8s !
i have a question ..
what is the real vcore when i set the vcore in bios to 1.485?
i have readed that the real vcore is at 1.485 -> 1.43V .. is that right ??
cpu-z shows me 1.213V ... seems to be a bug !!!
everest shows 1.49V .. i dont think that this is the right vcore
I have my droop pretty well under control now, but i've no idea how to use my DMM to measure resistance. Did you put both probes on the resistor or just one?Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeus
Put the probes on both sides of the resistor and select >50Kohm on your dmm.
Put the probes on the silver parts right on the edges of the resistor.
and i do this with the system off but psu on right?
Everything off!!
Do not poke around with the probes with the PSU turned on.
You'd best pull the powercord.
alright, i just took a look and i'm getting 18 or so k ohms, maybe that's a little too low?
I dunno, haven't tried that low.
Take a q-tip and remove some graphite if you want it a bit higher.
22 seems to be my sweet spot. the voltage doesn't drop anymore, thanks for all the help.
How do you disable "Virtualization Technology"? I'm using bios 1707 and it is grayed out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shpoon
I asked about this last week and didn't get any response.
Mine just...isn't? And maybe you don't want it disabled :p: look at my OC.Quote:
Originally Posted by Psitech
Peeps...
Are any of you using vista? I've had the RTM installed for a while now but can't be bothered with the fact that loads of software packages I use just won't work with it - however I've decided to give it another go seen as it's just been publically released, and I have a really irritating problem that's been present since some of the early betas:
Every now and then (this could be 1 minute or 20 minutes) my mouse/audio/general experience starts to stutter (lasting for up to a couple of seconds)... are any of you using vista and having the same problem?
I've got all the latest drivers installed also...
S
That's a great tip if it really works. One of my biggest gripes with this board's design is the use of the SiliconImage port multiplier on the ICH7R. Have you verified that it is really turned off and not running in RAID 1 (which I believe the manual says to use if you are running a single drive on an EZ port)? Does NCQ work on a drive connected this way?Quote:
Originally Posted by nickfd
Finally! The time has come!Quote:
Originally Posted by BenchZowner
http://www.benchzone.com/page.php?al=asustek_evaluation
[ awaiting for my friend Ian @ TheInquirer now :D ]
Is anyone using a FireWire hard drive on this board's FireWire controller? I have and admittedly cheap FireWire/USB to IDE enclosure. I was getting delayed write failures and other error messages and lost a lot of data. Switching to a USB 2.0 connection for the enclosure resulted in better performance and no more errors. Now I've installed a PCI FireWire card and went back to using the drive enclosure's FireWire connection with none of the previous problems.
I wonder if my MB's firewire controller is bad or if it could simply be the FireWire to IDE chipset and my motherboard don't get along.
I use a firewire backup drive and it works fine. Nice transfer rates too. I actually ran out of USB. I only have SATA drives in my machine though. Did you say you have IDE? Shouldn't matter which type is in the enclosure though.
I've seen delayed write failures occur frequently with cheap USB enclosures. In most cases, if you change only one component (either the computer/motherboard, the usb/fw enclosure, or the drive that lives in the enclosure) the problem ceases.Quote:
Originally Posted by NghtShd
Case in point: I have a cheap USB enclosure in which I installed an old 200GB Maxtor drive. When I tried to use it with my laptop I'd get DW failures. I replaced the drive with another Maxtor 200GB (identical model) and it functioned fine. Fearing that the first drive must be failing, I installed it into a different USB enclosure and tried it with the laptop... it worked fine.
During my troubleshooting of the issue I discovered that compatibility issues between drive, controller and interface can occur, especially with cheaper chips.
I know that you are using FW instead of USB but I believe the issue is the same as it comes back to the IDE controller chip. So, no, I don't think it's your firewire port.
Perhaps increase the MCH v to 1.65. Also what memory do you have ? What's your cooling like and do you have an aftermarket HSF ? You may need to pump more CPU vcore, if you are prepared to do so, but make sure you have some decent cooling.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shpoon
What are you using to test stability ? Also you say "crashes doing the weirdest things" can you expand ?
:clap: Great article, hope the bots at ASUStek will read it:DQuote:
Originally Posted by BenchZowner
Hi, perhaps BenchZowner should also run articles on other Tech Support depts, such as ATI, wasted my time, told me to RMA a perfectly good graphics card, Realtek, none existant, Lian-Li, also non-existant, CT, a joke.
From my experiance Asus wasn't perfect by a long shot, but performed better than those. I'm really not sure, for a free service, whether there is any better..
ChrisC
Quote:
Originally Posted by AMD_Deluxe
:confused: :confused: :confused:
Thx for the info. I am able to reach the same ~3500mhz wall no matter if I use 8x or 9x, so I'll do that when my mem arrives. The biggest thing of importance for me is gaming at the moment, since my video-production/dvd-authoring is once in a blue-moon kind of thing, so I'll 3dmark06 it and see how it goes.Quote:
Originally Posted by iadstudio
Appreciate it!
You betcha! Gentoo for life (if it moooooooves, compile it)!! :cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by Krusty
Unfortunately all workstation apps and all games use directx calls to windows, and Wine/Cedega is quite a bit behind in their compatibility. They've got a lot of functions coded in, but not enough for us to be able to use everything.
If you remove all the jumpers for the ez-raid siliconimage controller, it will completely pass through the one port will act exactly as an ICH7 port. You will get NCQ and everything that you get as if you were plugged into an ICH7 port. However, if you force the jumpers to "big"(bug) mode, it will show up as "External Drive" and I'm not sure whether or not it will have NCQ.Quote:
Originally Posted by NghtShd
You can see just in the past few pages several discussions about this topic alone. It's related to vdroop, and it varies depending on load, how much voltage you're putting into the vcore, and some magic formula that we have no idea.Quote:
Originally Posted by AMD_Deluxe
If you want to resolve it, you can solder in a potentiometer/resister and follow the instructions, or do the pencilmod from a few pages prior.
We will be evaluating companies from time to time.Usually there'll be a new evaluation in the horizon every 4th week.Quote:
Originally Posted by cuke2u
The next company under evaluation's already picked up & we're starting the evaluation process next week :D
Yeah, it's IDE and I've had the same issues with different drives installed in the enclosure.Quote:
Originally Posted by iadstudio
Thanks for the info. I tried switching drives and the second drive did the same thing. I thought maybe it was the cheap power supply that came with the cheap enclosure, so I tried powering the drive from the PC's PSU but that didn't help. USB works great on this same enclosure, though, and firewire works great on this enclosure using my PCI firewire board, so I was leaning heavily toward blaming the motherboard. I was hoping it wasn't totally broken, just not as robust at handling flakey firewire-ide bridges and I guess maybe that's the case, which is good news (relatively speaking).Quote:
Originally Posted by grudgelord
My firewire card has a 4-pin molex power connector (which I have hooked up). I wonder if it could be a power issue? Maybe I should try running without the power connection to see what happens.
Edit:
Tried without the power connection to my firewire PCI card. The card still worked but the drive didn't get detected at all, so I suspect that it may be a lack of adequate power on the built-in firewire port. I know this firewire-ide board gets power via the firewire port, because even with its power supply disconnected it powers up and is detected.
Based on what I've read over the past few months of owning this board, any configuration in which the SIL is alive you get no NCQ or SMART. That's great news about enabling the direct ICH7 port connection by removing all jumpers, though.Quote:
Originally Posted by nickfd
Update:
I just had to try it, so I removed the jumper and moved the second drive in my array to the second EZ port and it booted with NCQ working on both drives, so thanks again for the tip. One of my complaints about this board is no more.
I was surprised and happy about this as well. Glad we aren't forced to use that crappy controller, but too bad we can't tweak some things to convert the JMicron to ICH7 as well. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by NghtShd
I wonder why this isn't documented (I read the RAID section of the manual multiple times and I don't recall this info)? I wish I had more SATA drives to test this configuration with.Quote:
Originally Posted by nickfd
Memory is OCZ DDR2 PC1000 @ 550 5-5-5-10 (well, right now, timings can be tightened, but I'm trying for the CPU right now...), cooling is water, so it can handle the heat, but I think it's dumb to pump 1.7+....Quote:
Originally Posted by Phoenix_TT
@grudgelord: Change your avatar! That's how I find where my post was, I was so confused :lol:
Yeah.. I actually found this out in a posting on the Asus forums. I'm surprised they didn't include this in the manual as well. I currently do have 4xSATA drives hooked up to the ICH7 and it works without a problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by NghtShd
pc1000?! You need PC6400+ to get any kind of performance and/or stability out of this board if you want to even think about overclocking.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shpoon
Can you please post all the details of your hardware with voltages, as well as detailed symptoms and problems you've run into?
Actually he has PC2 8500 he means DDR2 1000MHz........
Hahah, sorry, I didn't mean to type "PC", thanks :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by ThorLite
I'll take some pictures later on of my bios settings.
(If you're wondering about the ram, it was the same price as the PC6400 after rebate and price match, I AM NOT rich enough to buy it normally ;))
Great article, I hope Asus take note.Quote:
Originally Posted by BenchZowner
Cheers.
Hey Shpoon,Quote:
Originally Posted by Shpoon
I saw an earlier post of yours with some of your settings, and pasted them here. I would surely use 1.65 for your MCH, and with pc8000/pc8500 memory, you know you need 2.2 vdimm, right? That may be your problem, so please try at least 2.2 and don't be afraid to go up to 2.4 vdimm with it for testing purposes.
I'd also like to know your temperatures on the cores while idle and in torture mode (prime95/orthos) when you're pushing voltage. You say you can't even reach 3.3v at 1.55 vcore, but have you tried 1.60+ vcore? I need to push that much voltage to hit any reasonable clock, and my coretemps are okay.
hi i just want to ask questions regarding super_pi
i dont know why i'm having error running dual instance of super_pi
i already tried different settings but no luck :(
i just want to do some stability testing
here's the error i received:
NOT CONVERGENT IN SQR05
do you have any idea how to get rid of it?
here's my settings.
FSB: 250-440FSB 6x or 7x multi
Memory Voltage: 2.3-2.4V
CPU Vcore Voltage: 1.55v
FSB Termination: auto
MCH Chipset Voltage: 1.85v
ICH Chipset Voltage: auto
Freqs are 33.33 and 100.
Memory using SPD & manual
DRAM ECC Mode: Disabled
Hyper Path 3: Disabled
DRAM Throttling Threshold: Disabled
Advanced CPU settings:
Modify Ratio Support: Disabled
Microcode Updation: Enabled
Max CPUID Value Limit: Disabled
Execute Disable Function: Disabled
Enhanced C1 Control: Disabled
CPU Internal Thermal Control: Auto
Virtualization Technology: Disabled
Intel (R) SpeedStep (tm) tech: Disabled
Intel Core 2 Duo E6300 on Stockfan
Team Xtreem PC2 8000 2x512mb 5-5-5-15
Asus P5W-DH Deluxe 1804 bios
Enermax Liberty 500watts PSU
tnx in advance :)
To run 2 or more instances of SuperPi altogether, you need to run each instance from a different folder.Quote:
Originally Posted by DJSUB
tnx m8 it's working now :)Quote:
To run 2 or more instances of SuperPi altogether, you need to run each instance from a different folder.
you're my hero :D
Just got the P5W DH and in process of installing it. Saw on a previous post that there is a problem with updating Win XP if you have a Creative X-FI installed. Has this problem been resolved with the later (latest) BIOS flashes or what?
Also, MB manual states that the board does not recognize a SATA drive untill XP SP1 is installed. Does this mean you have to istall Windows on an IDE drive first and then to use a SATA drive for boot drive you clone the IDE drive to a SATA drive?
Any other quirks or tricks I need to know?
Thanks for any help.
I did the pencil mod to controll the vdroop I get on this board and it worked! Thanks guys for all the instruction/pictures. I have my board set to 1.5375 and it would droop to 1.49-5v. Now it stays between 1.54 and 1.52. I even squeaked an extra 50mhz out of it now!
I can't get much higher though because it seems that when I raise the voltage the droop increases a bit. Either way, thanks for the help! can't complain about the results.
One question though, what happens if I put too much graphite on the resistor?
i have an issue with the setup im trying to run. the issue is that i have 2 seagate 120gb drives i want to use as storage, but vista ultimate see's them as one combined drive that is unreadable and unallocated and in disk management all the options to format/partition/etc are greyed out. whne i look at the properties it has the disk labeled the same way i had them about a year ago when they were raided together! is there something i need to change to get them to be seen as individiual drives? i have tried every combo of things i can think of, its drivin me nuts lol
right now i have AHCI selected in bios. on the red adapter is my raptor 150gb with vista, on the black next to the red is a wd 500gb backup drive. on the next black is a 120gb seagate, and on the ezraid 1 is the other seagate 120gb. i have removed both jumpers from the ezraid currently, but have tried this in all the jumper configs trying to get SOMETHING to let me access the drives. the only thing that would let me get on the drives is using the jmicron, but i can only see the one drive on jmicron and not the 2nd drive on either the black or orange connectors when i do this. the raptor and wd 500gb always show up just as they should.
is this because i have ahci enabled? does something in the mbr (i dont even know what that is really lol) of the seagates need changed?
help please:eek:
bellx1 have you tried booting with only 1 drive plugged in? Also you said they were raided last year, have you used them in a non raid situation since then or were they in raid last time you used them?