To get the cloudiness out of a plexiglass cut, you can torch it with a blow torch. :up:
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To get the cloudiness out of a plexiglass cut, you can torch it with a blow torch. :up:
Thanks, Laine. Have you experimented with any model in particular that you could recommend?
I haven't used a torch, but I've tried my heat gun and it seems to melt the perspex too close to the point where it finally becomes perfectly opaque.
After some experimenting last night, I've found that going higher than 1000 grit sandpaper will give you the opaque look that you're going for without heat.
You can try a bernzomatic (the yellow one).
I've used it and it works, just not quite as well a the hydrogen mix the pros use. The finer the tip you can find for it the better, as the
one it comes with has a fairly wide flame (in comparison to the width of the acrylic).
Leave the paper on the acrylic and pass the flame relatively quickly and it'll leave a polished surface. Also, the smoother the original
surface, the quicker it will glass-off. This will also reduce the risk of burning the acrylic so it's a good idea to hand polish with a fine grit
first.
Well, that's my experience anyway. Take it or leave it :p:
I think you need the maximum protection...
i think...
you need...
A NANO SUIT!!
Yeah, I completely agree. That's the first benefit that I noticed of my table saw was how much easier it is to make square cuts now.
Alright, you convinced me, voigts. I went ahead and bought two of those Mastercraft blades for aluminum to try. I hope they work well. I went to my local hardware stores, and, per usual, they didn't have any blades that were made for cutting aluminum.
Is your thought that sanding a smooth groove down will keep it from bonding as well as a rough surface? I'd thought of that, yet at the same time since I plan to keep these plexi joins exposed I'd like them as clean looking as possible. Also, do you have a link to the type of torch that you're recommending? I went looking through some tonight but am not sure which one I should get for this type of work.Quote:
As for the grooves in your plexi, you may want to consider doing a bit of flame polishing with a small pencil torch. As long as an edge isn't going to be solvent welded (glued), you can hit it with a torch a bit to shine it up quickly. A pencil torch is ideal for small notches like that, and can save a lot of time sanding.
Thanks, friend.
That looks like it'd be helpful in the shop, doesn't it? :)
This is total your choice Michael, it's your line to draw as their your hands.
What you do with them is totally up to you.
But I honestly feel I would have be doing you a disservice not to make clear how dangerous this practice is.
On a serious note Michael this is on topic, it's basic Safty 101.
It really good of you to take the time to show detailed photos of your work log. Because of that, what you do in this work log will be a guide for others to follow in the future and that does concern me.
I hope future readers will find the value in this. :up:
Ahoy Xion....I've been using this to polish up acrylic. Practice on some scrap pieces with the same thickness that you're working with as it does tend to warp thinner pieces if "flame on" is left too long.
Good luck and fair winds to you, matey! :up:
Graeme, it was a joke, bud. Naked.. as in totally naked (fetal position, get it? *nudge*)
;)
Just trying to keep the mood light, friend. I know that safety is important, but there's also no need to unnecessarily scare the crap out of anyone who wants to start working in a shop. There has to be a balance, and I'm trying to keep this worklog upbeat and fun and not let it dissolve into an argument about safety habits. I think all readers have gotten it by now, so I'd like to keep all safety talk to PMs going forward. I do appreciate your concern and, as always, will take your advice into strong consideration. In fact, because of the feedback that you and others have given me, I'm certainly more conscientious than ever about wearing gloves around power tools. As I said, I didn't even use them the last time out, so you've all gotten inside my head--for better or worse.
:)
Thanks for the link! I skipped across that same model tonight and almost picked it up. Wanted to ask around first, though.
Fair enough mate.
But, I would still like to see a photo of you naked in the fetal position . :shocked: :ROTF:
I'm posting some previously unreleased shots of the build. One of them has hidden meaning.
http://img63.imageshack.us/img63/1517/dsc117500011.jpg
http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/8510/dsc10430001.jpg
http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/167/dsc10280001.jpg
Oooooh that's nice...
:up:
Those same blades that work for aluminum also work for acrylic as the way the blades are ground keeps the acrylic from heating up as much as regular saw blades. Those blades from Ebay are a real good deal as they usually run about $60 each for carbide tipped blades of that kind.
With acrylic, you can't heat up edges very much that you are going to solvent weld or it will craze in the joint (small cracks). Therefore you really don't want to flame polish, machine sand, or polish edges that are going to get joined. If I am going to join edges, then I sand them just smooth by hand on a flat surface enough to get the saw marks out. If you have an edge however that is going to show but is not getting joined, then you can sand it down smooth and then just hit it a bit with the torch to polish the edge instead of having to do it with a polishing wheel. You just have to be careful to go lightly and quickly with the heat so that you don't heat the acrylic up too much and cause it to bubble up.
That Benzomatic pencil torch kit that CptDreadFlint linked to looks to be a good option. I have just used a cheap $5 pencil torch from the local hardware store, but they don't last.
I'll have you know that your photos have challenged me to do some reading to figure out how to take good shots. I've been playing around with the manual settings on my new Canon SX120 and am starting to get a handle on aperature, ISO, and shutter speeds and how they relate to the end result. I got one large 48" light tent in, and am about to order a smaller 30" or so tent also.
Great info, voigts. Thanks. That will be helpful with the acrylic work that I'm doing. Appreciate the compliments on the photos as well. Sounds like you're off to a good start with the photography.
Thanks also to you, Wezly.
subscribed...
this worklog looks like the most beautiful I have ever seen!!
Go on XION... you rocks :)
You guys just want me for my mind... :shakes:
Nope.Quote:
Originally Posted by kgtiger
Hope to have another update tonight as I experiment more with the router and making some recess cuts on the zero-G chamber shelves.
Oops, sorry, johnp1983. Didn't mean to skip over your compliment. Thank you very much, bud! :up:
I believe the time has arrived to reveal the secret behind the side panel of refleXion.
When at first, it appeared as acrylic. Then, I revealed that it was actually a mirrored acrylic piece. Now, here is the next revelation:
http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/3586/dsc10420001.jpg
The side panel window, instead of being a mirror, is actually two-way mirror perspex. It's the same stuff that's used in security cameras. When lit from behind, it becomes transparent so that you can see through it.
Notice in the above photo that at the left corner where the softbox is sitting behind it, it is perfectly transparent. Then, as you move to the right and out of the path of light, it becomes a mirror again.
:)
Damn, you've been moving along since I been gone. It's coming along really nice. :up:
Kind of quiet in here now. Not sure why.
Thanks, Miller! Was wondering where you went off to.
So I've been getting in a lot of practice with the router table. This is quickly becoming my favorite tool (I know, I say that with every purchase, but it's true!)
What I'm attempting now is to recess cut the Zero-G shelves that the pumps rest on. The reason I'm doing this is because, after going with 1/4" plexi in place of 1/8", the pumps now sit 1/8" higher and do not line up properly in the windows. You'll see what I mean shortly.
First step was to draw an outline of the pump base on a test plexi shelf that was cut to scale at 1/4" thickness. Then, I'll recess cut it with the router 1/8" which was the thickness of the perspex in the original design of the Zero-G Chamber.
The place you'll want to pay attention to is on the left (there are a few cuts on this piece. Like I said, it was used for testing, so please ignore them.) It's outlined with the sharpie. I'm using a standard board as a straight edge on the right so that I can cut a straight line downward on that left side.
http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/1724/dsc14340001.jpg
This is how it looks all cleared out. There are some rough grooves in there, but those will come out once we start sanding it down.
http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/6859/dsc14360001.jpg
http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/9457/dsc14400001.jpg
http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/9673/dsc14410001.jpg
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/7096/dsc14420001.jpg
I'll hit it with my power sander first and use the mouse/detail end attachment.
http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/2236/dsc14430001.jpg
This is how it looked afterward.
http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/9665/dsc14440001.jpg
Now we go through the torturous process of sanding this down back to opaque (I really need a torch..)
But first, this is how it will look. You can see that the base of the pump now rests in that 1/8" recess cut.
http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/8075/dsc14450001.jpg
http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/9481/dsc14470001.jpg
Now to the sanding...
http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/5192/dsc14520001.jpg
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/398/dsc14530001.jpg
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/4850/dsc14540001.jpg
http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/2767/dsc14550001.jpg
My fingers feel like they're about to fall off at this point. 2000 grit below (forgot to include it on the photo)--
http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/8871/dsc14560001.jpg
Still not perfectly opaque, so we'll have to keep working with it. I'll pick up a torch and some Brasso or another abrasive tomorrow as the sanding is taking forever.
For now, this is how it will look mounted in the Zero-G Chamber. The recess cut as shown through the pump window--
http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/6425/dsc14570001.jpg
And now with the pump seated in it.
http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/3198/dsc14590001.jpg
http://img697.imageshack.us/img697/6937/dsc14660001.jpg
http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/116/dsc14680001.jpg
The bottom pump resting on top of the 1/4" shelf. This will need to be recessed as well. You can see the top of the pump base is showing through the window a little, and I only want the res top showing--
http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/9939/dsc14630001.jpg
Now onto another piece.
I've been experimenting with my unibits and this plexi. I'm really happy at the clean circular cuts they make. I plan to use pass-thrus on the middle plexi shelf. Why? Difficult to explain at this point, but to put it short, the tubing, when routing back into the chamber, has to make its way back over to the pumps which are on the other side of that plexiglass shelf.
I've probably confused you, but it'll become clear shortly.
http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/9552/dsc14740001.jpg
http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/6810/dsc14800001.jpg
http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/7114/dsc14810001.jpg
That's all for now. Thanks for checking in. :up:
Nice job on the holes for the fittings, and good luck with your sanding!
looks good! i like the plexi with the holes for your barbs, will look amazing!