Asus M3A79-T Deluxe

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Originally Posted by emersonsc

well i was doing some adjustments on the mutiplier... and im pretty sure my mobo just took a s***t on me... it restarted as normal after saving the changes, went to boot into windows, and just restarted, i got my asus splash screen, then... black screen. I tried to clear the cmos... nothing.

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What Bios are you Running? soundslike the 503? I use the 602 .


Sometime that can happen if it dosnt like a HT or NB setting.. if CPU Multi or something does not set right it can happen. Ive also noticed that sometimes if i am running high HTT and the Multi i use can cause the CPU to set 3900mhz and still but then black screen before windows logo:D There are some bugs depending on what is set.. you may have just seen that. If it resets the Bios you are good. I always check my temps and Volts before clocing Bios just to make shure i dint set something wrong before saving.

I can also run this CPU and Mobo @ max volts . Im using the Stock CHIPSET heatpipe too..


Check you Bios revision..if you have never flashed that Mobo..the 302 and 503 have dont that to me At stock Volts before ,,But i had set wrong Ht or Ram divider to where the memory crapped out..

Man probally DOMINATORS,, dosnt get along with mobo,,
Dang it ,, you reminded me about this..

Do you have other Ram besides the Dominators to use?

When ever my Dominators would act up with this mobo it resulted in a black screen and No powering on .. Problem i had to remove ram and put in another Brand.

For some reason when ever the Oc reset the Bios it would reset the Ram volts to 1.8v (default jdec) It would no longer be 2.2v which is needed to run above 800mhz on the Dominators i had.

So i installed my 9600 Vipers and have never had to deal with anymore.

Yeah its not doing ANYTHING. i push the power, and my fans/pump turn on, HDD spin-up, optical spins and thats it. The two red LEDs on my 4850 that are usual lit stay on for a sec or two then shut off. Black screen on monitor. And yeah, the dominators are the only thing i have :-( I thought about getting http://microcenter.com/single_produc...uct_id=0288096 as they are my only option other than waiting till mid next week for them to arrive from newegg...


EDIT: im using the newest bios, the 602 which i just flashed earlier today.

emersonsc: Did you try booting with only 1 stick of ram? Sometimes that helps... But it doesn't sound good, sorry bro... :(

I tried that. witching one out with the other and no go... and this point what would you guys think it is? Ram, CPU, or Mobo?

id try to unplug psu/flip switch so its off,,, clear cmos & pull battery for half hour or so, make sure all cables are in tight etc and try it again. if nothing happens still i'd lean toward cpu being the culprit as the mobo is still takin/sendin power but dont hold me to it :D

If your running the board outside of the case you can look at the underside of the board and see if you notice any hot spots under the FET's....

Did you hear a pop or notice a burning smell? As long as you weren't much over 1.55 on Vcore I doubt you killed the CPU (although the IMC's are kind of sensitive to high voltage). What PSU are you running? If the PSU died you can usually just put you nose by it and sniff, if it died it's usually pretty obvious..

FWIW, you can try running the system bare minimum (unless the PSU smells burnt, if thats the case I'd stop right now and not try anymore). By bare minimum, I mean just the boot drive, 1 stick of ram and the VC...

Personally, I'm not sure I would spend that much cash on those RAM's until I knew for sure what died..

I think its the CPU... the vcore was around 1.65-.68 i didnt hear any pops but when it tried to boot into windows is when it went blank and never came back... if thats the case hell i might as well let this damn thing sit untill the denebs come out in jan... no sence wasting another $200 on a chip to turn around and spend it again a month later...

sometimes when i have similar things happen w/ everything turning on but no signal to monitor i can get it back by hitting the reset button a few times on front of pc. may sound wierd but one day i didnt feel like pullin it out to clear cmos so i restarted it, same thing, restarted it, same thing, restarted it, same thing, hit the restart button a couple times quick before it could even try to post and then wah-lahh itll post and i get in and put my settings stable and get out quick or just set them to defaults quick and start over. not tryin to get your hopes up here lol but figure what do you got to lose

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Originally Posted by crazydiamond

sometimes when i have similar things happen w/ everything turning on but no signal to monitor i can get it back by hitting the reset button a few times on front of pc. may sound wierd but one day i didnt feel like pullin it out to clear cmos so i restarted it, same thing, restarted it, same thing, restarted it, same thing, hit the restart button a couple times quick before it could even try to post and then wah-lahh itll post and i get in and put my settings stable and get out quick or just set them to defaults quick and start over. not tryin to get your hopes up here lol but figure what do you got to lose

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Ive actually done that with some mobo's too...


Besides Ram and the Volts he was using ,, i dont think its fried. ive had a few good black screens with mine...Several things can cause a no boot ,, spin the fans with no beeps and have a black screen senario.

Also mentioned the led's on his 4850...those should never be on..Maybe a blink right when the power is turned on. But never should any LED's be on period for that card.


So that makes me wonder if the card locked or a monitor signal issue Now. I wouldnt be surpized if the 4850 died or if the PCI-E connector or PSU is at fault..

One thing to try for getting a viewable screen,,
If Your using DVI unplug it from card and unplug monitor. Use a DVI to anolog connector if you can and see itf it boots that way.. By swiching from DVI to anolog or vise versa can unlock a stuck or confused Monitor or Video card.


You havnt mentioned anything about any beep errors so i presume its booting with just blank screen (No Signal) If you wait like two minutes after powering on do you hear a single beep for windows? You know the lenth of boot up into windows then a single beep with HD light going and fans?

Also When Clear CMOS make shure the jump pin is back at the 1-2 setting not 2-3 setting... I Clear it with the PSU OFF and UNPLUGGED.. I leave it in the Clear MODE 2-3clear for a few Minutes and then set back to 1-2keep .

You may even want to pull the 4850 and reseat it..Tricks Mobo to resetting IRQ's if something went wacko in the boot department.

Dont give up..

Ive had bad days plenty of em... I Even had two days last week were i couldnt boot (though my old 3870x2 was toast(all lit up). Only to find i had a broken PCI-E pin on the Plug from my PSU cable(wire snapped from pin at solder under sleave). I guess i pulled to hard Removing the 3870x2 one day swapping the GTX260:D

Has anyone seen a waterblock on this board on the NB on top of the stock cooler unit? How it would be connnected I am not sure, but I thought I saw pictures on other boards people doing this?

Am I seeing things and/or are these people crazy?

I would think cooling that huge copper block which is attached to the SB/Mosfet would be reasonable.

Thoughts???

I contacted AMD today for an RMA... lets hope it goes through

You 'could' attach something over the top of the NB by taking out the little clips that hold the stock nb in place, and going through the wholes with some threaded rod, and bolting it down that way. I doubt any stock mounting gear that you would get would have long enough studs to account for the extra height of the stock heatsink. I think most of them assume your going to go directly on the die, though you might luck out. But ya, anything is possible with the right tools ;)

Although im not sure exactly how practical it would be. Obviously it would help some, but just looking at mine, there's not really alot of surface area as the top of the stock NB blocks isnt flat across, its just those two side strips of copper. I think for the most part the design is meant to pull the heat away, upto the mosfet sink, to get blown off by the cpu heatsink or some other fan and out the back of the case. Your still way better off to get rid of the stock setup and put any blocks directly onto the nb.

Ordered one M3A79-T Deluxe for Deneb, till then im sure i can find a use for this mobo .....

/me looks at 9850 :bsod: :explode2:

/offtopic managed to push my 9850BE on ASUS M2N SLI Deluxe to this CPU was actually at 3260 on all 4 cores :cool:

Hoping to squeeze a little more life from it.

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Originally Posted by Cluster

You 'could' attach something over the top of the NB by taking out the little clips that hold the stock nb in place, and going through the wholes with some threaded rod, and bolting it down that way. I doubt any stock mounting gear that you would get would have long enough studs to account for the extra height of the stock heatsink. I think most of them assume your going to go directly on the die, though you might luck out. But ya, anything is possible with the right tools ;)

Although im not sure exactly how practical it would be. Obviously it would help some, but just looking at mine, there's not really alot of surface area as the top of the stock NB blocks isnt flat across, its just those two side strips of copper. I think for the most part the design is meant to pull the heat away, upto the mosfet sink, to get blown off by the cpu heatsink or some other fan and out the back of the case. Your still way better off to get rid of the stock setup and put any blocks directly onto the nb.

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I assumed that would be the best approach is to remove, but when looking at the chip that is under the stock block it is so small and the block surface is much bigger and then you have to contend with the little chips that are lower then the chip that the stock cooler had a pad stuck to it to also worry about. Who knows....

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Originally Posted by cdnbum88

Has anyone seen a waterblock on this board on the NB on top of the stock cooler unit? How it would be connnected I am not sure, but I thought I saw pictures on other boards people doing this?

Am I seeing things and/or are these people crazy?

I would think cooling that huge copper block which is attached to the SB/Mosfet would be reasonable.

Thoughts???

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I've done just that.

I didnt want to remove the stock cooler on the board so i used a koolance waterblock on the NB heatsink
This is on a M3A32-MVP

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Originally Posted by evilSuRGe

I've done just that.

I didnt want to remove the stock cooler on the board so i used a koolance waterblock on the NB heatsink
This is on a M3A32-MVP

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What are temps on the NB?

Did you just get some longer screws to attach?

Yeah what were your stock temps vs h2o temps on your NB? I've got the m3a79-t dlx with the all in one heat pipe cooling crap on it, and since i dont feel like dumping over $100 on three water blocks right now, i want to at least get my NB cooler

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Originally Posted by cdnbum88

What are temps on the NB?

Did you just get some longer screws to attach?

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The temps are at 42-46C with the block.
They were around 46-52c before with the heat pipes
Its the Koolance GPU-200 and the screws were long enough barely.
The block is a bit big and the screws are at a angle.
I have the M3A79-T coming today so i might just take the heatsink off the m3a32-mvp and shave it down some so the block makes contact with the center of the heatsink. whats touching the block is just the sides of the heatsink .Same contact points it makes with the heatpipes.

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Originally Posted by evilSuRGe

The temps are at 42-46C with the block.
They were around 46-52c before with the heat pipes
Its the Koolance GPU-200 and the screws were long enough barely.
The block is a bit big and the screws are at a angle.
I have the M3A79-T coming today so i might just take the heatsink off the m3a32-mvp and shave it down some so the block makes contact with the center of the heatsink. whats touching the block is just the sides of the heatsink .Same contact points it makes with the heatpipes.

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Let us know what you get with the new board.

BTW what where you OCing to if at all? I was pushing 3.5 with my cpu on water and soon to have my gpu...and I think my NB temps where in the 40's.

http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/9048/compdm7.jpg

:D

Oliverda, is that TRUE 120 cooler? Whats your temps?

i think i found the reason for the weird "downclocking" i´m experiencing when running prime95 for a few minutes.
it´s the mosfet/nb cooling...
even at 3.2ghz idling it´s getting so hot that u can´t really touch it.
just for fun i tried putting the stock amd coolerfan that came with my 9950 on the mosfet heatsink. that way i could pass 3dmark vantage runs at 3.4ghz without having those weird hiccups during the cpu-test (guess that was because of the "downclocking" when the mosfets or the nb exceeded a certain temp). that lil 90mm fan went up to 4900rpm during the benchmark so that heatpipe thing get´s really hot and i think i need to put it under water too.
i´m going to use a watercool sw-17 on the mosfets and nsb-3 on both the nb and sb. i´m hoping my 3x120mm rad can take all that heat (cpu,4870x2,mosfets,nb,sb).

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Originally Posted by cdnbum88

Let us know what you get with the new board.

BTW what where you OCing to if at all? I was pushing 3.5 with my cpu on water and soon to have my gpu...and I think my NB temps where in the 40's.

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i was seeing my NB temps go into the 50ºs with the factory heat pipes on my board, the M3A32 had the same issue, once I watercooled it, never saw 50ºs again, the NB on these boards tend to run a bit hot I would say. Just for kicks, here is a pic of when I had the M3A32 running on water

In case you are wondering why the video card is all the way at the bottom is because it was the only slot that did not interfere with the radiator and the SB water block, that was the old case, new case does not have this problem, however I have the 4870 now which is on factory cooling still and so is the board as well.

http://img68.imageshack.us/img68/787...izedej2.th.jpg

Just the PCB part or the traces or both jet black.
Going to give wife the MSI DK790GX plat and pick up an ASUS.
Last build was NF2 A7N8X and I had hell of a time getting Corsair mem to work and chipset was extremely flaky. Bad ASUS because they made board seem like it overclock MB. So I'm very timid about this board. but keep hearing so many good reviews, aahh what the hell, I'll go for it.
But must be very black :D

David

P.S. I loved that board if only for the soundforce chip with dobly encoding. Would have made I nice htpc, but alas I killed it.

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Originally Posted by kazgirl

Yes I'ver noticed the same thing as well....

I'm hoping to get a black one myself when they do finally become available, the PCB color is actually quite improtant to me, its one of the reasons (well other than the stupid price) that I havn't gone for the Foxconn mobo I really don't like the red pcb used by Foxconn....

I know its a but silly, but its one of the things I like about the ASUS boards, the black PCB's used for the high end mobos, like the M3A32-MVP and the M2N32-SLI Deluxe...

Most of the brown PCB's I had seen until recenetly were for the M3A78-T mobos, and I thought that the black PCB had been kept back for the M3A79-T, but I've seen a few M3A79-T mobos now with brown PCB....

I just hope I'll get a black one I guess...!!!

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Originally Posted by Eternalightwith

Just the PCB part or the traces or both jet black.
Going to give wife the MSI DK790GX plat and pick up an ASUS.
Last build was NF2 A7n8ZX and I had hell of a time getting Corsair mem to work and chipset was extremely flaky. Bad ASUS because they made board seem like it overclock MB. So I'm very timid about this board. but keep hearing so many good reviews, aahh what the hell, I'll go for it.
But must be very black :D

David

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Ill take it your name is David? Well so is mine :up:

Anyhow, dude, I heard alot of bad things about ASUS boards lately, but I do not regret one bit buying my M3A79-T. THe board is exceptional in my eyes. Only reason why its dead now, is I hit the back of the PCB while removing the factory heatsink assembly to watercool the Vregs, NB, and SB. The board never posted again, which is whY I got the intel rig. I already RMA'ed the board, should be back shortly after the release of Phenom II's. So you know what im planning to do :)