Bowman, have you tried coating the exterior with the Tempsulate?
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Bowman, have you tried coating the exterior with the Tempsulate?
no i havent Gary. although i should have.Quote:
Originally posted by Gary Lloyd
Bowman, have you tried coating the exterior with the Tempsulate?
good to hear from you anyways Gary. i miss our little conversations on the strange cooling systems we have worked on.
i have gotten too busy anymore to even think about mods.Christmas is coming and being a single parrent of 2 teenagers is killing me...LOL;)
and now every body has gotten into the water ,so to speak on refrigeration cooling.i like setting back and watching them talk ..LOL there are some that are great techs,but there are some that are not so ,how can i say?truthful.
but i really dont need any work as i have been sending all mine to one trusted tech here.when you start turning it into a job it is when you lose the attraction to it.and i love doing what i do.that is the most important thing period.i love pushing the hardwear.
but hopefully i will be back to it soon as this season calms down.
i have a couple of straight forward prom's to mod,a custom one that i may try the peltier cooled 410 on.
my cascade i have been playing with co2 in.well co2 is a pain.it wants to turn to dry ice at the most wrong moments.but i have tried something.i have filled the low side with 502 until i see cooling in the evap.which takes them down to -60 then i have added co2 until i see it start dropping again.this brings be to -102 max low temp no load.and also seams to stop the dri ice problem by giving the dri ice a liquid(502) to help in the evaperation..so far seams to work pretty good.i need to get my load test equip and test.
but i also am working on a vacuum or pressured lexan box to stop me from fighting condensation problems on the motherboard and video card.i can pressurize with co2 and there will be no mositure to cause frost and condensation.
I have read through most of this thread and all that i can say is... jesus i´m tired.
This is the kind of thread that makes me remember when i lived in Alaska.
Keep up the excelent work, this kind of motivation drives people to push forward on whatever system they have.
Not all can do it, but it´s great to see someone doing it.
Cheers from Portugal ! :toast:
I'm very interested in your results with this. I have been thinking about it ever since I saw Dabits setup. I agree that pressure is the way to go, as opposed to a vacuum. Looking forward to seeing your results. Hopefully after the holidays you can find the time to get this thread going again with your assorted projects. I miss your posts. ;)Quote:
i also am working on a vacuum or pressured lexan box to stop me from fighting condensation
how would one go about pressurizing a box with co2?
I'm sure Bowman will come up with something clever. You need a box that can contain the pressure without leaking and a nozzle as a way to receive the co2 and shutoff. All would need to be sealed real well...yet still easily accessable. It presents some problems to overcome, but then I guess that's the fun of it. ;) Think of a co2 canister, same thing, but accessable too.Quote:
Originally posted by \/icious
how would one go about pressurizing a box with co2?
It wouln´t need to be sealed that well. CO2 is cheap and not that hard to handle. A box made of styren plastic, sealed with some cheap sealant would do just fine. I´ve one built a similar box to use with my airbrush setup, and when closed it keeps the co2 in place, unintentionally, for an hour or two. Just about enough to run 3DMark a couple of times.:)Quote:
Originally posted by TheDude
All would need to be sealed real well...yet still easily accessable.
Nice, i see you used a similar technique to the one described by me on phase-change and it helped. Dont you think that for CO2 wich changes in to dry ice a hollow evap wouldnt be better ? This would make it more similar to the dry ice rigs used by charlie or macci, there wouldnt be any problems with dry ice blocking the maze pattern.Quote:
my cascade i have been playing with co2 in.well co2 is a pain.it wants to turn to dry ice at the most wrong moments.but i have tried something.i have filled the low side with 502 until i see cooling in the evap.which takes them down to -60 then i have added co2 until i see it start dropping again.this brings be to -102 max low temp no load.and also seams to stop the dri ice problem by giving the dri ice a liquid(502) to help in the evaperation..so far seams to work pretty good.i need to get my load test equip and test.
but i also am working on a vacuum or pressured lexan box to stop me from fighting condensation problems on the motherboard and video card.i can pressurize with co2 and there will be no mositure to cause frost and condensation.
I was thinking in terms of 24/7 use instead of benching...even for benching, I would want it to last as long as possible. Water is cheap too, but I wouldn't want to have to keep adding it to my rig.Quote:
Originally posted by denstore
It wouln´t need to be sealed that well. CO2 is cheap and not that hard to handle. A box made of styren plastic, sealed with some cheap sealant would do just fine. I´ve one built a similar box to use with my airbrush setup, and when closed it keeps the co2 in place, unintentionally, for an hour or two. Just about enough to run 3DMark a couple of times.:)
So you're an artist....do you airbrush your pc cases? I have a friend who does custom paint on motorcycles. Man I envy guys like you, my sister inherited all my Mom's talent, I got none. :(
well let me enlighten you.LOLQuote:
Originally posted by berkut
Nice, i see you used a similar technique to the one described by me on phase-change and it helped. Dont you think that for CO2 wich changes in to dry ice a hollow evap wouldnt be better ? This would make it more similar to the dry ice rigs used by charlie or macci, there wouldnt be any problems with dry ice blocking the maze pattern.
you can see i had 2 evap's right.
well one is a hollow chamber with a finned inside center for surface area.
the other is bakers maze.
on my first lot of testing where i hit -141.it only ran that on the baker block with channels,the open block was only -60 or so...huge diff dont you say.
and it has something to do with the dri ice in the open chamber not moving i guess.
now when i added the 502.
the 2 blocks changed.the block of mine now runs 3 to 5 degrees colder and the 2 have equaled out now to -102 to -99f in temps no load.
strange isnt it,
well yes that will work.Quote:
Originally posted by denstore
It wouln´t need to be sealed that well. CO2 is cheap and not that hard to handle. A box made of styren plastic, sealed with some cheap sealant would do just fine. I´ve one built a similar box to use with my airbrush setup, and when closed it keeps the co2 in place, unintentionally, for an hour or two. Just about enough to run 3DMark a couple of times.:)
but i have gotten some used 5/8 lexan from work and going to make a vacuum box,one that will hold for days.then pressurize to 1 to 2 psi.i dont want any supprises this time when benching,,,LOL
No doubt! Good luck bro.Quote:
i dont want any supprises this time when benching,,,LOL
dunno how to feel... like a idiot or what... cant read your emotions in that post :|Quote:
well let me enlighten you.LOL
you can see i had 2 evap's right.
well one is a hollow chamber with a finned inside center for surface area.
the other is bakers maze.
on my first lot of testing where i hit -141.it only ran that on the baker block with channels,the open block was only -60 or so...huge diff dont you say.
and it has something to do with the dri ice in the open chamber not moving i guess.
now when i added the 502.
the 2 blocks changed.the block of mine now runs 3 to 5 degrees colder and the 2 have equaled out now to -102 to -99f in temps no load.
strange isnt it,
By a hollow evap i meant a evap with out any fins, like a piece of copper pipe. Dry ice forming on the fins can block the flow wich i suposse happened to your evap, the second theory could be the fact that it changes in to small grains wich dony quite fit between the fins and dont cool the evap too well. The baker evaporator has a maze pattern, i cant tell how wide the channel is, but it seems to be 2-3mm width, ~6-8mm deep, beacause of the lenght and their shape CO2 can stick to it better and beacause the flow is concentrated it has a harder day blocking the evap.
In a completelly hollow evap (or with small pins, lets say 5x5mm pins with a 5mm spacing, 10mm high) the mixture made of R502 and Dry ice flow down there forming a mixture very similar to acetone / methyl alcohol mixed with dry ice used in dry ice rigs wich guys like macci use. This way R502 would stay in the evap (at least most of it), the cap tube would supply liquified CO2 wich entering the evap changes to dry ice, the dry ice mixes with R502 and boils off. Of course some of the R502 would be flushed away but i think that this way there is less R502 to condense than in a maze pattern evaporator where R502 doesent stay too long beacause its flushed by the flow.
I hope the description i wrote above is in some way correct why there were such differences..
I can only speculate on why it works or not, you've got the hardware i can only discuss and admire your work... Sorry if i offended you somehow..
not a problem,i dont always know myself how i can put something togther from scatch,complety differant design from normal system (because i like to think up a differant approach)and the damm thing runs.but i love to do differant things than the norm.Quote:
Originally posted by berkut
dunno how to feel... like a idiot or what... cant read your emotions in that post :|
By a hollow evap i meant a evap with out any fins, like a piece of copper pipe. Dry ice forming on the fins can block the flow wich i suposse happened to your evap, the second theory could be the fact that it changes in to small grains wich dony quite fit between the fins and dont cool the evap too well. The baker evaporator has a maze pattern, i cant tell how wide the channel is, but it seems to be 2-3mm width, ~6-8mm deep, beacause of the lenght and their shape CO2 can stick to it better and beacause the flow is concentrated it has a harder day blocking the evap.
In a completelly hollow evap (or with small pins, lets say 5x5mm pins with a 5mm spacing, 10mm high) the mixture made of R502 and Dry ice flow down there forming a mixture very similar to acetone / methyl alcohol mixed with dry ice used in dry ice rigs wich guys like macci use. This way R502 would stay in the evap (at least most of it), the cap tube would supply liquified CO2 wich entering the evap changes to dry ice, the dry ice mixes with R502 and boils off. Of course some of the R502 would be flushed away but i think that this way there is less R502 to condense than in a maze pattern evaporator where R502 doesent stay too long beacause its flushed by the flow.
I hope the description i wrote above is in some way correct why there were such differences..
I can only speculate on why it works or not, you've got the hardware i can only discuss and admire your work... Sorry if i offended you somehow..
i have some shopping today to do,and i hope to get some work on my sealled box done.
I wouldn´t call myself an artist, but I have done some work on motorcycle helmets and similar stuff. I mostly use the airbrush for scale models and such. I´ve seen some custom PC cases, and some of them where really nice. Maybe I will do some work on my own rigg when I get it ready. Was thinking of painting the whole rig in WWI five color lozenge. But I need the cash for my second Prommie and a Lian kit for that one as well, so maybe sometime this spring.....Quote:
Originally posted by TheDude
I was thinking in terms of 24/7 use instead of benching...even for benching, I would want it to last as long as possible. Water is cheap too, but I wouldn't want to have to keep adding it to my rig.
So you're an artist....do you airbrush your pc cases? I have a friend who does custom paint on motorcycles. Man I envy guys like you, my sister inherited all my Mom's talent, I got none. :(
Was thinking of stacking two prommies under my PC60. Does anyone know if there would be a problem lengthening the tubes for the bottom one, so it would reach upp to the graphics card?
denstore,
I know Bowman has done this and others in here too I believe.
That would be really cool. Please post lots of pics of your stacked proms and your art work. :D
'Quote:
Originally posted by TheDude
denstore,
I know Bowman has done this and others in here too I believe.
That would be really cool. Please post lots of pics of your stacked proms and your art work. :D
Will sure do so. As soon as I can get my first prommie working....
Shouldn´t have bought a US version. Even if I´ll get it running it won´t perform as well as one made for 220V from the start. But the plan was to use this one for the GPU, and to buy a Mach II for the CPU, so it might not matter that much.
Earlier you said that you didn´t inherit your mothers skill. I´m not that dissapointed, but life would sure have been easier if I had inherited my fathers talents instead of my mothers. People with scientific degrees makes more money than artists.:) My brother and sister got the lion part of the raw brains. I only got the curiosity and stubborness. :) But I´ve learned that those are the two main requirements for a good OC, so I´m not that sad...!:)
denstore,
What is wrong with your prommie? Is there more to it than the fact that it's a US version? You realize that there are converters for the voltage? I'm assuming it has other problems more severe. If so, there's lots of guys in here that can help you. ;)
The former owner(stupid fxxk), plugged it to 220V. Maybe it´s broken beyond repair, but I don´t think so.Quote:
Originally posted by TheDude
denstore,
What is wrong with your prommie? Is there more to it than the fact that it's a US version? You realize that there are converters for the voltage? I'm assuming it has other problems more severe. If so, there's lots of guys in here that can help you. ;)
But if I have to exchange any of the more expensive parts, and combined with the cost of a voltage converter, it would probably get cheaper to buy another used one, and chop this one up for spares. :(
Is it a Mach I or II as for the compressor the Overload relay may be open... Mach may have an open in the supply side of the controls
I think it´s a Mach I. Are there any earlier versions?Quote:
Originally posted by chilly1
Is it a Mach I or II as for the compressor the Overload relay may be open... Mach may have an open in the supply side of the controls
if you missed it, i just thought it was funny. nevermind
HI ,
I'm from Germany and i want to know what ist the best if i can fill in my Mach 1 and Mach 2 ???
Which sort : R404a or R507 i don't know ???
And how much : R404a --> 46 g ????
I hope you can help me , please wrote all you know like a list !!
Best first !!
Bye Bloody
PS: Please the best for Mach 1 and Mach 2 !!!
well i like beiing truthful,(unlike some who say one is the only way to go)i am not going to tell you for sure 404 is better or not than 507.i personaly have only used 404 and see no reason for me to change.with only like a 1/2 degree in boiling temp differance i dont see it being any differance.Quote:
Originally posted by Bloodymaster
HI ,
I'm from Germany and i want to know what ist the best if i can fill in my Mach 1 and Mach 2 ???
Which sort : R404a or R507 i don't know ???
And how much : R404a --> 46 g ????
I hope you can help me , please wrote all you know like a list !!
Best first !!
Bye Bloody
PS: Please the best for Mach 1 and Mach 2 !!!
i have a couple units hitting -47c while running a p4c at 4200mhz.
some of the guys say they can do better...i hope they can.but i measure all my temps with fluke gauges.one mach II i did left me showing -46c and the unit says it is running -59c to -61c.which is not possable.
so all i can say is 404 works good for me.the 2 (404/507)cost the excate same price per pound.so no benifiet there.i guess it is what you have at the moment.i have no plans to buy any 507 at the moment.
as far as how much...i never scale mine.for me it isnt worth my time,since i do so much fine tuning the measured amount wouldnt be right.
biggest thing is making sure you have a good triple evap done to the unit before you charge it.
@ Bowman 1964
Hi at first Thank you for your help !!
It is ok, nobody can say this is better like this !!
But can you tell me how much did i must fill in the Mach 1 and Mach2 from R404a in g ???
Because i thing it will be cooling better or i'm at the wrong way ???
Bye Bloody