Can anyone rate the primochill Typhoon III?

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Originally Posted by [XC] riptide

:shrug: Sorry buddy... but you don't quite understand it. If the Steel is a noble alloy it means very little corrosion of it, and ANY other metal in the loop. .... the very reason why it IS used in pumps. To corrode it has to be an active metal. Mixing an inactive metal (like your hard steel example) is like mixing plastic with water and copper. ie no effect. Your statement of the farther they are apart = more corrosion is not entirely true. They have to be both active metals.

The electrical conductivity can and will be provided by the water in the absence of anything else. The current that passes through the water to have the effect of corrosion is so small that it will happen.


You should try a Zalman reserator with a copper block and tell me there is no corrosion. (I had one with a copper, low restriction GPU block)... the residue settled down the bottom of the reserator itself.

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Guess we will have to agree to disagree as I have seen galvanic corrosion between two grades of stainless. I am going to go with the experts (and nature) on this one. No circuit...no galvanic corrosion. The more noble a metal is the less likely it is to be the anode (the metal that dissolves/corrodes rapidly). Stainless can STILL be the anode if the other metal is even more noble. The water does NOT make it a circuit...

I will again point to this link:

http://www.corrosionist.com/Galvanic_Corrosion.htm

Under the three conditions needed for galvanic corrosion number 2 is:

Condition 2. The metals must be in electrical contact

The two different metals must be in electrical contact with each other. This is of course very common. The two metals can be bolted, welded or clamped together, or even just resting against each other.

Under the how to avoid galvanic corrosion section near the bottom of the page it says:

Prevent Electrical Contact.

It is often practical to prevent electrical contact between the dissimilar metals (removal of Condition 2). This may be achieved by the use of nonconducting (eg rubber or plastic) spacers, spool pieces or gaskets, perhaps in conjunction with sleeves around bolts. For the same reason a gap may be left between galvanised roofing and a stainless steel down-pipe.

Again. Not to get this going into a big argument as the only thing I would fight for is your right to disagree, but without a circuit there can be no flow...and the spice MUST flow =)

There are active and passive versions of the stainless you are talking about BoxGods. The passive is most likely the variant they are using in the pumps as it's much higher in chromium. Also, here's a little food for thought, Gold is much higher on the nobility chart than the stainless we're discussing, why then did Koolance use it to cover their early copper blocks when used with aluminum rads? It's because it was so high on the nobility chart that it was actually impervious to the effects of corrosion. Once you get to a certain point on the chart, things have a natural immunity to the effects of corrosion, passive stainless isn't in that group but it's pretty close.

One more thing, I can't for the life of me remember where I saw it but, I saw something one time that showed there is some sort of voltage leak into the CPU block from the CPU, the person that found this showed that there was indeed a leak, but only when the CPU was in place. They tried testing without the CPU and the was no leak at all. IIRC, This was with C2D so I don't know if the same holds true for i7's.

For what it's worth, you don't need a complete circuit to achieve electrical contact, do you?

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Originally Posted by Waterlogged

There are active and passive versions of the stainless you are talking about BoxGods. The passive is most likely the variant they are using in the pumps as it's much higher in chromium. Also, here's a little food for thought, Gold is much higher on the nobility chart than the stainless we're discussing, why then did Koolance use it to cover their early copper blocks when used with aluminum rads? It's because it was so high on the nobility chart that it was actually impervious to the effects of corrosion. Once you get to a certain point on the chart, things have a natural immunity to the effects of corrosion, passive stainless isn't in that group but it's pretty close.

One more thing, I can't for the life of me remember where I saw it but, I saw something one time that showed there is some sort of voltage leak into the CPU block from the CPU, the person that found this showed that there was indeed a leak, but only when the CPU was in place. They tried testing without the CPU and the was no leak at all. IIRC, This was with C2D so I don't know if the same holds true for i7's.

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I think maybe one of us is not getting the point. The 300 series stainless in the D5 would NOT be the anode...the copper in you block would be. The link I posted shows the relative voltage ranges of the various metals. Again, the LESS noble metal would act as the anode and show INCREASED corrosion while the more noble metal would be cathodic and have decreased corrosion. All of this is totally irrelevant because the 300 series stainless steel parts of the D5 are totally isolated from any other metal parts in you cooling loop ELECTRICALLY. My original point in bringing up the D5 was to demonstrate a REAL example of dissimilar metals that have been in everyone's cooling loops for years without any galvanic corrosion rather then resorting to the heard it from a guy who heard it from his brother type anecdotal evidence we normally see posted.

Here is the link again:

http://www.ceoe.udel.edu/seagrant/pu...corrosion.html

Keep in mind that that is written by a professor of applied sciences...

As for the CPU leaking an electrical charge to the block. I would doubt this but I can't say for sure. It would not matter if it HAD happened though because adding electricity to an OPEN branch still would not provide a closed contact electrical coupling. For that to happen the cpu block would need to be in contact with another dissimilar metal in the loop still...

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Originally Posted by Stuey

For what it's worth, you don't need a complete circuit to achieve electrical contact, do you?

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I am not EXACTLY sure what your asking...I am going to assume (yeah yeah I know) that you mean that for galvanic corrosion to happen you do not need a circuit because contact between the two dissimilar metals is enough...which is in its simplest terms a circuit lol.

Look at it like this.

Copper block>>>>>>>>>>tube>>>>>>>>aluminum block

That is obviously not a circuit...call it a branch and because the dissimilar metals are NOT coupled there is no galvanic corrosion happening.

Now if it went:

copper block with aluminum top>>>>>>>>tube>>>>>>>>copper radiator

you DO have the potential for galvanic corrosion because the copper and aluminum are in contact with each other AND the fluid...if you were using a non conductive fluid you would actually still be missing one of the three REQUIRED components for galvanic corrosion to happen.

See the link bellow as I think it explains it in very simple clear terms. In order for galvanic corrosion to happen you MUST MUST MUST have the following three conditions...and it lists them. At the bottom it lists how to preven them and one of them is to put something non conductive between the metal parts...like the tubing we use.

http://www.corrosionist.com/Galvanic_Corrosion.htm

I am really not making this stuff up guys...the links are from specialists and scientists, please just read it for yourselves and you will see...

Let me stop this discussion real quick, my situation is a I have a window AC that I turned into a chiller by placing the evaporator into a cooler which is then filled with fluid and circulated through the loop. The evaporator itself is copper, but the fins that are on it are aluminum, hence is why I get the corrosion in the first place. I could pull it all apart and remove the fins, but that would be a real PITA.

So, back to my original question, is there a fluid that will not harm the T3 that will prevent corrosion, albeit not forever (Riptide)? It just would be easier for me to run the entire loop off of the chiller than to separate the cpu from the current loop.

PC Ice. It doesn't have ethylene glycol in it, so shouldn't void warranty. It is Primochills coolant, so hope it works in T3 :yepp:

From Primochill's site:

Features:

* Non-Conductive*.
* Pre-mixed and ready to go, just add your choice of color**.
* Ships with the dye separate so you can get the exact tint you want.
* Special corrosive inhibiting ingredients to prevent sludge build up and galvanic corrosion**.
* Special broad-spectrum antimicrobial agent, helps keep your cooling loop pristine**.
* Safe on all plastics, rubbers, and miscellaneous gasket materials.
* Environmentally responsible food safe NON-TOXIC biodegradable product—good for you, good for your PC, and good for the planet. We do NOT use Ethylene Glycol in our fluids.
* Formulated for high flow pumps and is not prone to mechanical sheering.
* Specially formulated with excellent lubrication properties to increase pump life.
* 3 year shelf life, unopened.
* Freeze point below -30F.

Hmmm, $100 worth of fluid or remove the aluminum fins or run just a separate cpu loop? Maybe this is why I am thinking about TEC.

I thought your temps were good. :confused:

Are you just looking to push that chip as fair as it goes?

Temps are fine for average Joe, but now that it's built I have to look to the next adventure, so why not see how far I can push it, that's all. I am looking to try out TEC's, which is probably where I will end up since I haven't tried that yet, but I would still like to be able to use my chiller if I want too. I designed it to quickly connect to my current loop using QD's, that way i could use it anytime I want without a lot of hassle.

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Originally Posted by Utnorris

Temps are fine for average Joe, but now that it's built I have to look to the next adventure, so why not see how far I can push it, that's all. I am looking to try out TEC's, which is probably where I will end up since I haven't tried that yet, but I would still like to be able to use my chiller if I want too. I designed it to quickly connect to my current loop using QD's, that way i could use it anytime I want without a lot of hassle.

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Got ya, well probably should just strip out the fins so you don't have to worry about it. :shrug:

TEC's are a lot of fun if your into tinkering...though how hard could taking the fins off be? Are they held on with thermal epoxy? If so I have done the freezer method a few times with good results.

Pretty much what it sounds like. Freeze the thing over night then slip a knife blade under an edge, apply some pressure, then wrap the fins a solid sharp tap...the thermal epoxy has usually shrunk at a different rate then the other two materials and the blade is applying directional forces and the tap causes the now (hopefully) brittle thermal epoxy to shatter.

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Originally Posted by BoxGods

I think maybe one of us is not getting the point. The 300 series stainless in the D5 would NOT be the anode...the copper in you block would be. The link I posted shows the relative voltage ranges of the various metals. Again, the LESS noble metal would act as the anode and show INCREASED corrosion while the more noble metal would be cathodic and have decreased corrosion. All of this is totally irrelevant because the 300 series stainless steel parts of the D5 are totally isolated from any other metal parts in you cooling loop ELECTRICALLY. My original point in bringing up the D5 was to demonstrate a REAL example of dissimilar metals that have been in everyone's cooling loops for years without any galvanic corrosion rather then resorting to the heard it from a guy who heard it from his brother type anecdotal evidence we normally see posted.

Here is the link again:

http://www.ceoe.udel.edu/seagrant/pu...corrosion.html

Keep in mind that that is written by a professor of applied sciences...

As for the CPU leaking an electrical charge to the block. I would doubt this but I can't say for sure. It would not matter if it HAD happened though because adding electricity to an OPEN branch still would not provide a closed contact electrical coupling. For that to happen the cpu block would need to be in contact with another dissimilar metal in the loop still...

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. . .and you completely ignored my Koolance example which is a far greater distance of metal nobility than the stainless/copper example.;)

*sigh*Agree to disagree it is then.:(

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Originally Posted by Waterlogged

. . .and you completely ignored my Koolance example which is a far greater distance of metal nobility than the stainless/copper example.;)

*sigh*Agree to disagree it is then.:(

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Did I? Sorry. I remember those, but as I recall it was about THERMAL conductivity...there was a few months there where that gold stuff was all the rage for thermal conductivity.

I say that because it comes back to dissimilar metals...coating copper with gold to prevent a non coupled aluminum part from corroding would not work (not that there would be a problem because the aluminum radiator was not in contact with the copper/gold CPU block). If it WERE an issue you would have to plate the radiator in copper...

I happen to know for a fact your a brighter then average guy so your either playing devils advocate here or you didn't take the five minutes to READ the links ;)

Whoops I missed your agree to disagree comment. AGREED =)

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Originally Posted by Waterlogged

. . .and you completely ignored my Koolance example which is a far greater distance of metal nobility than the stainless/copper example.;)

*sigh*Agree to disagree it is then.:(

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Besides Galvanic corrosion, there is corrosion due to dissolved Cathions. And of course the cathions move around by virtue of a pump. The noble elements rarely give off cathions... or any ions for that matter. ;)

In the example of copper and Alu its:

3Cu(2+) + 6e- > 3Cu
2Al > 2Al(3+) + 6e-

Therefore.... 3Cu(2+) + 2Al > 3Al(3+) + 3Cu

^^ Thats the reduction of copper by the oxidation of Aluminium, and leads to pitting. Happens in Water.

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Originally Posted by BoxGods

Did I? Sorry. I remember those, but as I recall it was about THERMAL conductivity...there was a few months there where that gold stuff was all the rage for thermal conductivity.

I say that because it comes back to dissimilar metals...coating copper with gold to prevent a non coupled aluminum part from corroding would not work (not that there would be a problem because the aluminum radiator was not in contact with the copper/gold CPU block). If it WERE an issue you would have to plate the radiator in copper...

I happen to know for a fact your a brighter then average guy so your either playing devils advocate here or you didn't take the five minutes to READ the links ;)

Whoops I missed your agree to disagree comment. AGREED =)

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Ooopppss, did I forget to mention that Koolance blocks like the CPU-330 and GPU-200 also have nickel plated aluminum tops? :wasntme::para:

Now the i really wanted to get this for my first water loop, but the question is who has it in stock? i have asked Jab-Tech and they really don't know when they are getting any :(

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Originally Posted by Fafeifa

Now the i really wanted to get this for my first water loop, but the question is who has it in stock? i have asked Jab-Tech and they really don't know when they are getting any :(

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Primochill had a few a couple of days ago. have to ask BoxGods when he will be making more.

It likes like Performance-PCs still has a few in stock.

No idea on the PEC (the T3 with a pump) as the 8 poert version is shipping out end of this week...then prolly more of the pumped ones.

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Originally Posted by BoxGods

No idea on the PEC (the T3 with a pump) as the 8 poert version is shipping out end of this week...then prolly more of the pumped ones.

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Originally Posted by Stuey

It likes like Performance-PCs still has a few in stock.

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They have an option with theirs to order a pump also. Looks it is about the same price. Just use the drop down menu. :up:

Talked to Brian at Primo and he confirmed that a batch of the 8 ports would be going out Friday or Monday with a batch of the T3 PEC's to follow withing 3-4 days. I have no idea to where/which stores though.

8 ports? 4 loops? we need some figures/ reviews on that beasty!

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Originally Posted by m1013828

8 ports? 4 loops? we need some figures/ reviews on that beasty!

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I'm thinking he is referring to the top and bottom port versions. Some people with MM cases find it troublesome to tilt the cases onto it's back for filling and on to its face for draining.

He fixed that by offering top and bottom ports.

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Originally Posted by millertime359

I'm thinking he is referring to the top and bottom port versions. Some people with MM cases find it troublesome to tilt the cases onto it's back for filling and on to its face for draining.

He fixed that by offering top and bottom ports.

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Nope, there was another version sans pump that had 4 sets of inlets/outlets that was touted around the time of the original announcement of these res's.

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Originally Posted by Waterlogged

Nope, there was another version sans pump that had 4 sets of inlets/outlets that was touted around the time of the original announcement of these res's.

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ahh, haven't heard much about that version.