well join 2 large pins with silver lacquer, or a loop of wire is easier than paint 2 small bridges.. which are smaller than a bee's :banana::banana::banana::banana:..
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well join 2 large pins with silver lacquer, or a loop of wire is easier than paint 2 small bridges.. which are smaller than a bee's :banana::banana::banana::banana:..
rag, did you do it yet?
what about just using the jumper to set it @ 133fsb
or wouln't that do the trick
Could you post some pics once it's doneQuote:
Originally posted by Ragnarok
well join 2 large pins with silver lacquer, or a loop of wire is easier than paint 2 small bridges.. which are smaller than a bee's :banana::banana::banana::banana:..
http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/fsbsense.htm
i saw it on this page linked on xtreme
Quote: UPDATE/OPTION:- Users may refer to socket pinout diagram/s in 25175.pdf datasheet to locate Vss/Gd and Vcc/Vcore sockets near AG31 and AH30 to apply fine wire u-loop "jumpers" to reset their default LO/HI setting/s instead of closing/opening their respective L12 bridges...
Pulling my H2O apart now..
ok, i'm going to be buying an 8rda+ soon, to go along with my XP2100 AIUHB0301.
now, turning this 133fsb chip to a 166fsb chip will gain me better results on the 8rda+??
and doing the 8bit mod will enable a few neat features in the bios??
wow, soo interesting,
thanks...:)
Here is a pic of an L3 mod done underneath the cpu, same principle for L12 just get the correct pins. And here is pic of the same mod using a wire loop.Quote:
Originally posted by antipop
Could you post some pics once it's done
Like he says, both methods seem much easier to me than painting the top of the cpu. I did the L3 mod on a 2400+ when I had a KX7-333, took about 2 minutes (plus time to dry). :)
Hey lads,
i've read through this thread a couple of times, and i am still no closer to answering my question....
....is this mod only gonna improve FSB for 133FSB CPU's?
E.G. i have a XP2500+, will this benefit me in any way, going back to a 133FSB
Cheers
. Oh and, this jumper on my NF7-S 2.0, does it actually help also?
I gotta try this again!
First time didn't work, and damn those new process Athlon's are smaller than before!
Nf7-s 2.0 - you want a 333
nf7-s 1.0-1.2 you want 266
Do you know what pins should i join? I'm gonna try that one as the brigdes painting doesn't seem to work on my chipQuote:
Originally posted by MrLavender
Here is a pic of an L3 mod done underneath the cpu, same principle for L12 just get the correct pins. And here is pic of the same mod using a wire loop.
Like he says, both methods seem much easier to me than painting the top of the cpu. I did the L3 mod on a 2400+ when I had a KX7-333, took about 2 minutes (plus time to dry). :)
I saw a website with all those info some time ago but i didn't bookmarked it
hiQuote:
Originally posted by pc ice
if you want true performance do both 166 and enable 8 bit mode......
http://home.comcast.net/~davidhilton...ID-678337.html[/URL]
i am not quite sure if i got that right, you say the 8bit mod enables these new options in the bios?
i doubt that only the last L3 bridge is responsible for that because its closed on 1700+/1800+ by default, check out the pic in the first post of this thread to see what i mean. im gonna try this later today, would be nice if someone could tell me more about that L3 mod...
mfg
I did the mod joining the pins, it worked good :) heheheQuote:
Originally posted by antipop
Do you know what pins should i join? I'm gonna try that one as the brigdes painting doesn't seem to work on my chip
I saw a website with all those info some time ago but i didn't bookmarked it
U need to join AH30 to any ground pin (Vss)... u can find the relative locations on the XP CPU datasheet (25175.pdf)
I will get pics up in 5 mins
I'm gonna wait for a pic before busting my cpuQuote:
Originally posted by Ragnarok
I did the mod joining the pins, it worked good :) hehehe
U need to join AH30 to any ground pin (Vss)... u can find the relative locations on the XP CPU datasheet (25175.pdf)
I will get pics up in 5 mins
HEHEHE
235 2-2-2-11 :D
I am a happy man....
http://members.iinet.net.au/~zzhang/Pinmod.jpg
With Gold Arrow facing top left, the shown portition is lower right corner of the CPU
that seems a little different from what is shown here to give the 166MHz FSB...or do i have it wrong?
http://fab51.fc2web.com/pc/tbred/img..._sense_pin.gif
but if it works, more power to ya....nicely done.
use the above image in regard to this thread:
http://forum.oc-forums.com/vb/showth...hreadid=212004
it's the same mod.. except I used a different Vss pin..
on oc forum they choose to use AH32 (pin below), i used AH28 (pin above)..
hehe Rag , nice that helped you :D
btw 235Mhz is fair enough now, but keep in mind that now, only your ram is limiting you from overclocking, my OCZ PC3500 EL seems to stop overclocking at 243Mhz (going higher will result in Prime95 instability even with crazy Vdimm ;))
I must be doing something wrong cuz no matter how I bridge the L3 and the L12, it won't post. My guess is i have a retarted cpu :( Spent 2 hours with no success. Oh well, I'll stay with my max of 220. It's a pain in the arse removing and reataching the waterblock. I have a suposed dead XP2100 Tbred B 304 which i'm gonna try this mod on. Who knows, it might just came back to life.
Is your cpu capable of running 166 fsb with the default multiplier and voltage? Because that's what it's gonna to try and post at.
so if i have a 1700+ and a 8rda+ (a3) would i want to do the L12 mod?
i already modded it to use a 13x multi so i get all multi now
Yep, but still no dice. 2 cpus and 3 hours later, no luck. I'm gonna throw in the towel and just forget it. I'm gonna get myself all worked up for nuthin.Quote:
Originally posted by MrLavender
Is your cpu capable of running 166 fsb with the default multiplier and voltage? Because that's what it's gonna to try and post at.
Thanx anyways.
I fee ya Nebulous...I did the EXACT SAME THING!...so I put in a 1700 that I know will clock at a decent speed...(11*228...an at that I have to put so much fire uP it's behind...I jus run it at 10.5*225*1.65v) an moved on down the road:toast:Quote:
Originally posted by Nebulous
Yep, but still no dice. 2 cpus and 3 hours later, no luck. I'm gonna throw in the towel and just forget it. I'm gonna get myself all worked up for nuthin.
When u say condactive paint can i use Whiteout for paper ??? :)
well first post NF7-S will always post @ 100 FSB...
or if it doesnt post coz not enough volts u can always hold insert
I tried the pin trick but i couldn't get the wire to go arounf the two pins. How did you manage to do it? I don't want to use conductive paint as i'm not too confident in the one i have
For now i'm stuck @220MHz and my ram doesn't seem to hold me back
Yeah :( I got a 1700 somewhere around here, but I don't want to go thru the trouble of taking the waterblock off again. It's really a paint in the arse!lolQuote:
Originally posted by Stepper
I fee ya Nebulous...I did the EXACT SAME THING!...so I put in a 1700 that I know will clock at a decent speed...(11*228...an at that I have to put so much fire uP it's behind...I jus run it at 10.5*225*1.65v) an moved on down the road:toast:
Guess 220 isnt too bad. Sure wish i could get more, but, oh well.
I use conductive silver epoxy ( like AS), the brand I bought is actually designed for electrically conductive ( for bridging ), but has very good thermal properties also ( per their specs).
Works well for traces.....:D
I do believe I'm gonna try this later today, on the early 8RDA+ (Rev.1.0). My OCZ PC3500 Basic gets into windows, but not stable, @223 FSB, and I'd be a happy camper if this trick gets me more. ;) Gotta do a few things first, but I'll be back later with some input. :)