a little bit of copper pipe wont do much imo..
i think i am officially done with this pump for now.time to put the 50Z back in. not nearly as much perfomrance, but i can deal.. way less noise and 1/5 the heat dump.
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a little bit of copper pipe wont do much imo..
i think i am officially done with this pump for now.time to put the 50Z back in. not nearly as much perfomrance, but i can deal.. way less noise and 1/5 the heat dump.
WEll. we all learned something from this. HEHHEE, I guess I'll be ordering a 20RLT next week sometime.
I'd like to Thank MaxxxRacer for all his work in getting this done and agreeing to do it in the first place.
-Brandon
muahahaha. have you forgotten that I am a mod-everything psychopath??Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer
what is the diameter of the pump housing? How much does it weigh? That biatch can most certainly be weaponized. The members of this forums have figured out how to dump massive amounts of heat when we only have a few scant square millimeters of contact area to work with -- surely, we shall not run into a pump with awesome performance and be stifled by a little heat dumping problem when we have a lot of housing area to work upon...
Initial ideas:
1. slot the pump housing and add a small grill so that the heat will have a less restricted route out of the pump. If EMI is a problem, it can have a raised copper cover and copper mesh grills.
2. ventilation fans. Back in the days when I used nothing but air cooling, I managed to add fans to almost everything. My cable modem has a hard-wired 5v cooling fan and heatsink (wired directly into the 5v supply on the modem)and it is the only one of its model that can hack a 5 meg connection without burning up.
3. heatsinks added to the housing - every little bit helps. I did this on a pump that I used to have that had a bad heat problem. The difference was amazing.
send me that bastage.
Here's what I have always wanted to do. Take, say a 3.5" round piece of aluminum barstock and use a rotor to drill out an inner circumference that is exactly the size of the motor housing. Then (somehow) use a CNC machine to work the surface of the heatsink so that there are ridges for optimal ariflow. Then slater with AS Epoxy and slide onto the motor housing. I bet that would cool the son 'um ':banana::banana::banana::banana::banana: down.
Im gonna try to do a similar thing to an old heatsink I have laying around.Quote:
Originally Posted by freecableguy
It's gonna look a little like this:
may god have mercy on the iwaki.
You're going to paint it that ugly green color too? It's going to be quite the punk-pump. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Pessimisten
its already an ugly arse green. its ugly but it makes up for it in spades with character.
hmmm...2 h311 with character...if I touch it, it will be stealth black before it is done. heh.Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer
if ya wanna argue, I will be in CS under the name weapon.
:p:
lol.. ive been playing BF2 recently. I own in the demo.. 3 to 1 minimum kill ratio..
rod, you should ask brandon if he is interested. if so I could ship the pump to you for the modfest.
btw if u want to paint the plastic ull need to do a minor acid etching or sanding.
Heat sinks on motors work pretty well. Did one a few years ago to cool a motor in a non-computer app. Fortunately I was able to find a finned aluminum oil filter housing that was almost the correct i.d. and length. Cut off the bottom and top then took the remainder to an engine rebuider and had them hone the id out til it was a snug fit over the motor's housing.
It left about 1/2" at each end of the housing uncovered. Before, with a fan blowing on the motor, those areas were still noticeably warm. With the cover in place and the same fan those areas weren't warm at all. Temp must have dropped at least 30 - 35 F.
As an alternative - think I might try making one from soft, thin copper as it's easie to bend than aluminum. Bend some zig-zags like the filler in corrugated cardboard, snip the ends off a few of the corrugations to leave some tabs so it can be tie wrapped to the motor. Probably work better with fewer zig-zags and more flat sections to pick up the motor's heat.
bfx
All I can say is you guys ARE extreme! slotted covers and heatsinks. However that doesnt correct the heat dump factor, which is why I'll be hmm "promoting" on ebay, as so as I get her back from Maxxx.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Weapon
Weapon you should get an award for being most creative and Extreme!
LOL
-Brandon
brandon it will go out tommorow. I will take some pictures for your ebay auction tonight.
weapon, if you can find a way to make this pump useable, I will officially love you. I must have one of these, and i WILL find a way to make it work, even if it means epoxying heatsinks all over it (and, of course, repainting it). Also, for my loop, a meager extra 30 watts or whatever won't make that big of a difference... 100+ watts from CPU, probably something like 400+ from GPU/TEC, ??? from bridge rectifiers... whats a measly extra 30? :)
I'm starting to feel as though dual 2-302s won't be enough. *shakes his head*
bloody, if you are running TEC's, this pump will be hardely noticed temps wise. especially if u got 400watts coming off the tec from the gpu.
Brandon, here are the pictures of the pump. they are high quality to say the least. I blurredo ut the serial number so no one tries to rip you off on ebay and use that serial for RMA purposes.
http://images5.theimagehosting.com/MD30_Front.jpg
http://images5.theimagehosting.com/MD30_ISO.jpg
http://images5.theimagehosting.com/MD30_Side.jpg
http://images5.theimagehosting.com/MD30_Tag.jpg
see you mentioning epoxying...
slight offtopic:
if i was gonna use epoxy + thermal grease on a chip for alu heatsinks, what would be the best ratio to use them in?
epoxy:grease = 1:1 or more grease than epoxy???
(asking for mem chips on vga card and large alu heatsinks)
thanx!
1 parts epoxy to 0 parts thermal interface material.
This assumes you are applying the heatsink pretty much permanently and are applying it correctly (10+ lb's force during set time, and both surfaces must touch well..).
didn't quite get what u mean by this. :(Quote:
Originally Posted by STEvil
use no TIM and just use epoxy is what he is saying. dont particulary agree with this at all though.
50/50 AS5 & AS epoxy seems to hold well & i removed 1 easily.
assuming you isntall it correctly you shouldnt need to use a TIM.
TIM is for when the contact is bad really.. and some TIM's dont spread out well or work correctly when mixed with Epoxy and will instead become a barrier to heat.
Straight epoxy is the best if you can make the surfaces contact each other well enough. If not then you wont be gaining much from using the heatsinks.
omfg....i juz purchase a resun md40 ( cloned iwaki md30RX ) ....coz it's really cheap at my place....RX hv 2.9/4.1 only (m)max head,and RZ is about 11 (m) max head....
im affraid tat RX series oso hv this kind of problem ...
Maxxx this pump looks promising ! :D
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...188x006&ctt=64
could you run some tests with it ? LOL I was thinking maybe 12 in parallel ?
12 in parallel.. intersting major... if i thought u were serious for atleast one second id need to bring out the psychiatric ward.. but im gonna give u the benefit of the doubt and say ur not.
but if you are, send 12 my way and ill test em. just make sure to include a packing slip to send em back to you like brandon did (thankyou btw brandon [well brandons wife], it made my life alot easier as im totaly broke)