^Correct that also means its it serviceable. Since R502 has been long gone im trying to figure out what would be a good replacement for it. :confused:
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^Correct that also means its it serviceable. Since R502 has been long gone im trying to figure out what would be a good replacement for it. :confused:
UPDATE!!.. Just finished building the evaporator/condenser today and it wasn't easy bending it into a loop as you can see lol. I have also chosen R-402a as a refrigerant for stage one because of its boiling point of -49.2c im anxious to see how low I can get stage one.
The project has been coming along slowly because i've been doing other things lately but feel free to post ur questions,suggestions,etc.
Props & bonus points for using old, unusual equipment. :clap:
:shock2: :shock2: Geesus H christ man!...you must live really close to a substation? :shocked: :shocked:
Explain?Quote:
Originally Posted by ZENNZZO
POWER usage is all I was refering to bro...I was building all last month and if I wasn't testing or evacing down I was tunning one...the bill for the month was 250.00 USD... ;) It would be sweet to have an un-metered lead from a substation...lolQuote:
Originally Posted by _HL4E_HalfLife_
LMAO well the answer to ur question is no I don't heh, but this compressor won't be drawing that much 3.5 to 4.5 amps I would have to say.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZENNZZO
I think i might have struck gold yesterday at work theres an old A/C thats been sitting in the storage area for about 2 years now and its a wopper its 115v 18000Btu's with a rotary compressor. Its been banged up and scratches on it so im gonna see what I can get it for.This would be wicked to use as my 2nd stage :eek: :slobber:
BTW 18000btu's is as high as you can go before switching over to 220v.
Haha, now thats a score.
Hell yeah ya did...sharing is caring...lol...what else didja score?...Hmmmmm?Quote:
Originally Posted by _HL4E_HalfLife_
How does it go for cap tube? Longer=slower response in load conditions but lower temps. Shorter=quick response in load conditions,not as low a temp in the end. Is this correct? And also how long is too long and how short is too short?
UPDATE!! I did some brazing today for the high side u can see one of the joints I brazed just after the discharge service valve in pic 1, the other joint you can kinda see in pic2 entering the condenser. In case ur wondering about that copper tubing thats wrapped around the compressor,thats used to cool the compressor body and also will prevent liquid return to the compressor. I pressure tested those 2 brazing joints up to 205Psi for about 10 min than drew a vacuum for about 15min and the pressures held, so far no leaks :D
Wow, that compressors tiny :slobber: It looked huge in the first pick.
Using the suction line to cool that compressor is probably going to kill your evap temps.
Regards
John.
Not at all because the cap tube will be brazed onto the big loop first so any gas that hasn't boiled off after it has left the evap loop will boil off in the compressor cooling loop.Quote:
Originally Posted by pythagoras
Ps. Can someone answer my question about the cap tube.
Thats what you want to happen, but its probably not what will happen. It would be great if the heatoutput of the compressor just balanced the heat required to boil of any remaining refrigerent in the suction line.
But what are the odds of that happening? I'll bet you get massive superheat---high suction pressures---high evap temps!
Regards
John.
I bought a needle valve that im gonna use to manually adjust the flow of gas through the compressor cooling loop. and since noone was willing to help me with the cap tube :shakes: i've decided to try something I don't think anyone here has ever tried yet, I call it a 5 stage cap tube selector..thats all im gonna say about it for now ill post pics when its complete.Quote:
Originally Posted by pythagoras
BIG UPDATE!!
Picked up a liquid line filter drier and a sight glass. I also built my cap tube selector in the shop where i work today. In pic3 there are 5 different lenghts of cap tube starting from the left is the shortest one at 15 inches than 20",30",40" and finally 50 inches. Connected up the filter drier and the sight glass to the selector and mounted the selector in place.Attached the 5 cap tubes to the other ends of the needle valves shortest starting on the left again. I drew a bit of a vacuum to see if it would hold and I could hear air leaking in around the valve fittings (peices of s-h-i-t) so I whipped up some JB quik weld and gobbed up the fittings which you can see in the last pic and am gonna let it harden overnight. Tomorrow im gonna braze the 5 cap tubes into the loop and and recheck for leaks.
Did you put the flare fittings together w/ JB weld or did you really just gob in on the flare nut?
I just put it around the fittings. JB weld is great for sealing leaks it gets rock hard,my boss where I work has used it many times for this.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZENNZZO
interesting... ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by _HL4E_HalfLife_
compression fittings like those on the needle valves are not used in refrigeration because they leak and they can blow off .Since the tube slides into the fitting they can be brazed,you must dis-assemble the valve first so the heat dosn't ruin it.just braze the tube into the valve,throw the nuts and compresson rings away.Quote:
Originally Posted by _HL4E_HalfLife_
i've seen people use hand adjustable expansion valves. i think that would be perfect for your application.
I have thought about brazing the valves but the valves are made of brass I think won't that be a problem?Quote:
Originally Posted by wdrzal
you can braze them using 15% or higher silver rod and flux.be sure to dis-asamble them. they may even leak around the valve stem since these are not designed for hvac/r use. But I think you can tighten the packing nut enough so they won't leak,but no gaurentees.
Keep in mind plumbing parts are not refrigeration parts, you will never find a refrigeration part that uses compression rings, they are either braze in or flare.Places lke lowes and home depot do not sell any refrigeration parts .
Silver rod?? is that just another saying for silfoss? if so thats what i've been using to braze the copper joints refrigeration grade silfoss.Quote:
Originally Posted by wdrzal
I've been getting some of the parts such as the valves at home hardware.
I use a rod made by victor called "silverflow" it contains no silver,its a phos-copper rod it is for cu to cu use.you have to look at the breakdown of elements listed on the package. They call is silverflow because they want you to think it flow like silver rod. they work well on cu but have a higher melting point.They do not work on brass.
the point is just because a rod has "silver" in its name it may not have any in the rod.