frozen cap tube can mean its clogged. You should evac a ton of times.
Printable View
frozen cap tube can mean its clogged. You should evac a ton of times.
looks ok
could we please see a set of temps/ pressures ?
Also when it is only frozen at the last few inches? Or is this Ok?Quote:
Originally Posted by JSU
Very well done kayl, temps are getting better and better with the autocascades.
When its frozen in the last few inches its usually moisture related. If there's moisture in the system it will turn to ice at the very tip of the captube and block it. It could also mean your cap tube is too long and the refrigerant is evaporating before it reaches the end of it.
loaded temps will come once i get more close to -70c if that eva happens, or if i find i cant get any lower temps will test load temps.Quote:
Originally Posted by gkiing
for now i have some work tunning it.
i will evac again, i hope not as i dont have a real vacuum pump, i did use 2 new driers though, one in the r290 line and one in the c02 line.Quote:
Originally Posted by JSU
I hope it isn’t moisture.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gkiing
yeah i think in my case the capillary line was way to long and the thing its backing up on itself
i cut the r290 line from 2.1m of 0.028" to 1.7m and it didn’t frost anymore, it also enabled me to get the hx to current temperature.
what full set did you want.Quote:
Originally Posted by berkut
on the previous page i have pics of pressures and temps.
update though for ya
1st stage -27.2c
2nd stage evap -57.1c
pressure suction (just before the compressor for both suction lines) 20psig
high side after the condenser before the separator is ~320psig
suction line temperature before the compressor 6" is -29.7c
and the temperature of the drier just before the c02 line goes to the hx is 31c.
not sure on room temp but should of been around 25c or so.
Hehe I need more temp sensors.
Kayl what did you use to braze copper pipe to the mapp gas bottles? My mapp torch can't make the 45% silver flow well eneough, and 15% didnt flux :( Is there some secret i'm unaware of, or do you all have oxy acetylene torches?
hehe i got skills,
nar map gas torch should be fine, 15% solder and white flux all i used.
use white flux on area brazing, blast it till flux melts in area to braze, then when the copper takes solder and the map gas can is glowing hot, back torch off and apply in area you need to. by backing off flame the brazing material does flow as much, other wise it sort of flows every where but where you want it to and hard to fill areas.
[EDIT] Got my answer in the other thread.. thanks
Last night I awoke to a large bang. OMG the autocascade went band I thought.
Then I told myself it would have been way louder and I was dreaming.
This morning I go to the computer room to find that one of the home brew bottles blew the lid off. Heheheeh.
this morning before work i switch on the autocascade and temps started to fall straight away so i musnt have any leaks which is good.
i then had breadfast and came back and dd evap was -59c.
i let some gas out and came back later and this is what i got.
ps temp gauge is on temp with ice bath.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...id=23904&stc=1
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...id=23905&stc=1
Nice! What's your low side running at?
woohoo way to go kayl! guess iam abandoning my valves :( they severd me well, just now on a system with so many variables. Its much easier to size captube for these systems b/c resistance goes up linearly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JSU
thanx man
JSU if your gonna use capillary line instead of vales get yours self a bottle bbq r290 instead of r404 other wise ya gonna go broke.
Then use real refrigerant later. Thats what im gonna do, I wonder what temps would be if I switch the bbq gas out for HC22/502.
I ran out of bbq gas, got to stop using it on the bbq and going camping.
gkiing im not sure on pressures sorry, have to get those friday.
goon on ya mate :toast:
i have come to the conclusion that r404a isnt good for a auto-cascade anyway. It fractionates in a funky way so if you used it you wouldnt have a add any to the evap. The problem is its not controlable so you could get alot fo a little.
Quote:
Originally Posted by berkut
i think i cracked it
-69c 3psig/225psig i think i can live with that :toast:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...id=24082&stc=1
nooooo go lowerr!
:toast: very nice figure. thats loaded?
ok for you reject
and australia lowest i got is -72.2c i got a photo
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...id=24086&stc=1
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...id=24087&stc=1
:slobber:
:wiggle: nice
awesome work kayl
Or you can heat the tube and hand bend it, or use a lever bender.
sound like a good idea, but not for refrigeration. you are going to kill the compressor if you do that,sand :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by KaptCrunch
and water is the last thing you want in there as well, moisture.
gkiing i dont like to heat pipes to bend (only time do that is say if crushing pipe end, like for autocascade hx) i really do need a pipe bender. i just dont think its worth what they are asking it for, i got a flair tool the other day though to fix the TXV valuve.
I got a pipe bender for $12 at canadian tire, it's just a cheap 1/4" - 5/8" bender but it works fine. Look around for a lever bender that has slots for different sized pipes, they can be found pretty cheaply.
edit i got a pipe bender today, they are a little hard to use, get in the way.
but i will use it every now and again.