Just send me a PM. Thanks!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Stumpjumper5200
Printable View
Just send me a PM. Thanks!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Stumpjumper5200
DANG! Very nice :slobber: :slobber:
I can't resist to them... :slobber:
Ordered a pair of them :D
Hope they can make me happy with my new rig... any ideas about how to insulate them right?
What is the clear side made of? I need to know what temps it will tolerate.
Absolutely beautiful work. Would be the best if it will tolerate sub-zero temps.
By the pictures, I think that the clear side is made of acrilic and don't know if it's thick enough to tolerate sub-zero temps...Quote:
Originally Posted by Onycho
I want to use mines with a chiller... can someone say something about it?
Copper top's would be better, but...
copper tops with add a lot of weight, its already a fairly beefy thing, i asked if a delrin top could be made, they where pretty helpfull and tryed to source the material but couldnt yet, said they would try again on monday
What is "delrin"? If it's better than acrilic for waterchilled (if we can say that acrilic is good for that :rolleyes: ), then I'm interested too.Quote:
Originally Posted by Smurfy
I've allready ordered mine's, but think that can wait for the reply about delrin...
H2oGun: nice blocks you have there :banana:
The maker is truly talented & yourself H2OGun would have to be one truly fortunate SLI user indeed
nice :cool:
derlin is a non clear plastic based material that is very very very durable and very easy to machine. it is probably the best material to machine out there as far as ease of workability and quality of the cuts. The good thing about it is that it will never crack. if anything it will flex, but it wont crack.
People over at OCAU love your work and are very interested but they would need to be derlin tops as everyone is in fear of them cracking over an extended period of thermal cycling :(
Just to let you guys know, he found delrin, it cost me $20 extra per card ($40) which i felt was reasonable as he must have done a bit of research to find the material and i did say i was willing to pay extra for a delrin top if he could source it.
Apparently my 2 blocks will be shipped out on monday so should have them fairly soon, atm i have my SLi setup cooled by 2 x Silveprop SL il give a comparison when i get them installed bare in mind i will not install them straight away, my SLi watercooling took me around 6 hours in total to install:P
God i hope nothing goes wrong:P
It is very good to see some nice SLI watercooling solutions already under production - you have some fantastic and professional looking blocks there :). Have you considered adding dimples, or small pins to the part of the block that looks to be cooling the video card's RAM? The troughs that are in there now probably will not do too much in the way of generating lots of turbulence.
Personally, I'll be holding out on SLI untill someone figures out how to peltier cool both of the video cards :D.
let us know how it goes ? so you have the version with barbs facing opposite directions ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Smurfy
Here is a couple of pics of the Innovatek NV40 blocks in an SLI system. 2 mm of dremel action, and they fit fine. Now, I just have to wait until the MSI board arrives Wednesday, then bye bye ASUS.
dwwalker, correct me if im wrong, but in that second pic there is no pump. i see 2 vid cards, cpu, and two rads, but no T line, no res or no pump... am i seeing things??
It is hiding in the 5 1/4 inch bay area at the front of the case. So, you don't actually see the pump or reservoir when looking into the system. The CM Stacker is huge, so it was easy to place there.
And, now looking at the pic on the bottom right side, it is easy to think the hose to the cpu comes from the rad. They overlap almost exactly in the pic.
I am rebuilding the system when the MSI board arrives, and I also have tee lines coming as well. Right now everything is in series. Pump, CPU, small rad, GPU 1, GPU 2, then big rad, back to pump.
ahh ic.. wow, my vision is going.. lol.
Did you dremel the lower right of your CoolMatic? I tried to fit that block on my card before but I can't becoz of the capacitor on the lower right.Quote:
Originally Posted by dwwalker14335
I took the top of the block, measured it out, and used a grind stone the same size as the cap. Then, I ground it, test fitted, ground some more. After I had one fit, I ground the other identical to the first. It does not take too much to get it to fit. Also, I took off the plastic middle part (mine had the blue LED insert, ground that to match, and then put it all back together. The top plate did not need to be touched, since it cleared the cap. So, the blocks look stock still.
Nice!
To let you guys know i recieved my Watergun waterblocks ( dont know the name but the one H20's m8 makes) I have to say at first glance they look very well made, atm they are in need of a bit of cleaning with a soft cloth and some brasso, but they look very well made, il try and get some pics if i can get my brother to lend me his camera on friday. Il also post Temp differences and overclocking differences.
VTW yes i got the version with barbs facing opposite directions
Post those pics. It will be interesting to see how well they work, as well.
Has anyone else use any other blocks successfully? Mainstream (DangerDen, Innovatek, etc) or custom?
Well i dunno if you say but i currently have 2 Fusion SL on the block, id be very surprised if these blocks outperformed them but the fusion SL's i have make it impossible for me to cool 2 of the ram chips on each card which im slightly worried about. atm on my system im gettign temps of
CPU:(3000+ @ 9 x 285)
32 idle
37 Load
(based on the MSI Core Centre on Neo Diamond Sli)
GPU1 (6800 GT stock)
35 Idle
GPU2 ( 6800 GT stock)
38 Idle
Its intrestign to see the temp difference between the 2 blocks, they are being run in parallel as im mainly worried about the CPU.
I dont know weather its due to a difference in the mountings or if its to do with the different tubing lengths ( i.e higher resistance lower flow).
I have to say for those who are wandering about SLI, it really down pwn.
I did a little testing, and I have found that running the cards in series keeps the temps of the video card within 1 degree, where using a couple of t-connectors had them at 3C difference.
If you have the time, run each card with the block by itself to get the normal idle temp. Then put the hottest one first in series instead of parallel. Otherwise, it can be hard to keep the flow even accross both cards. Mine were actually equal.
I am going to experiment some more this weekend regarding the GPU temps within series and parallel coolant flows. I want to see what works best.