nice guide, but i dont think most people have enough cash for the oxy torches
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nice guide, but i dont think most people have enough cash for the oxy torches
I just wanted to drop in some infor for you guys (i find these informations very usefull for novice's):
Quote:
Main Function of the Oxy-Acetylene Torch:
The primary function of the Oxy-Acetylene Torch is at least three-fold.
1. The torch can be used to braze two or more pieces of metal (they don’t have to be the same type of metal) together.
Brazing is a process of using a brass filler rod that creates a metallic bond between the different pieces of metal. With brazing the two pieces of metal are not 'fused' together; they are merely joined by an 'adhesion' process with the brazing material.
The torch can also weld similar pieces of steel by using a filler rod made of the exact material composition as the metal being fused.
2. The torch can be used as a cutting torch. This cutting torch feature allows items to be cut to length and it also allows material to be removed from the middle of a piece. The cutting torch does not typically leave a very smooth edge -- thus grinding is usually required to finish a cut.
3. The torch can also be used to heat up metal pieces. Someone may want to heat up a piece of metal to bend it or manipulate it into a different shape. Another reason why some use the torch to heat metal would be in the area of TIG welding. When TIG welding a large piece of aluminum it is beneficial to heat the metal up to a certain temperature to speed up the TIG welding process.
Personal Protective Equipment to be used during operation:
Welding goggles required
Leather Apron required
Leather Arm Coverings required
Leather Gloves required
Steel Toe Leather Boots required
Safety Precautions related to Welding:
1. Eyes:
Do not watch the torches flame with your eyes unprotected by a sufficiently darkened glass.
2. Burns:
Aluminum melts at nearly 1500 degrees F.
Steel melts at nearly 3000 degrees F.
Human flesh burns at a lot less than either of the above.
Always wear protective gloves, aprons, arm protection.
Leather boots should be such that a drop of molten steel has no easy path into your boot. If your leather boots are the lace-up type with some type of man-made material on the tongue, you should wear leather feet protectors on top of your boot.
NOTE: Some molten metals will stick to your skin.
3. Clothing:
Never wear frayed clothing that could be caught on fire by sparks.
Never weld while wearing tennis shoes, hot steel will burn into man-made materials, and you won’t be able to get your shoe off fast enough.
4. Hazardous Fumes:
Welding galvanized steel is very dangerous to ones’ health; the galvanized coating on sheet metal has a zinc component in it and this is very bad to breathe in – it can cause serious health problems.
Any flux from a welding rod is intended to shield a weld from the atmospheric air NOT shield lungs from atmospheric air, so exercise caution and try to avoid breathing welding fumes.
The Oxy-Acetylene Torch uses compressed gases in its weld process. Acetylene is an extremely flammable gas and it will take away breathing air if it is released all of a sudden, and especially if used in a confined space. Never weld in a confined space without proper equipment in place.
5. Cylinder usage:
NEVER, NEVER, NEVER USE OIL ON THE THREADS OF A GAS CYLINDER when hooking up gauges!!!! This is a serious explosion hazard. Oxygen is the main culprit of this evil situation, but it is required practice to NEVER put oil on any cylinder's threads where you are hooking up gauges.
It is important to remember that any compressed gas cylinder has the potential of becoming a projectile, if for some reason the contents are allowed to suddenly escape. When a cylinder is in use it must be properly secured to a cart. When any cylinder is being transported, it must have the cap screwed on to protect the valve from accidental damage. When a cylinder is in storage before or after use, it must be properly secured to prevent accidental falling.
Compressed gas cylinders also are potential air robbing devices if the contents are allowed to suddenly escape into the room’s atmosphere.
Never 'crack' a cylinder's valve prior to hooking up the gauges.
When using the OXY-ACETYLENE torch, one must be aware of the fact that a room with only 3% of the air space occupied by a ‘pocket’ of acetylene gas IS a potential explosion hazard.
Be aware of the fact that Acetylene gas is very unstable at high pressures. Actually acetylene cylinders have a significant amount of acetone in the bottom of the tank to act as a stabilizing influence. This is why when you are running out of acetylene, you will notice a change in color of the flame; that is due to the flame now having more acetylene in it that previously.
NEVER use oxygen as a substitute for compressed air.
Basic Operating Procedures for Using an Oxy-Acetylene Torch.
1. Assemble all materials to be welded and have them clamped and prepared for welding.
2. Make sure the oxygen and acetylene cylinders are secured to the cart or the wall.
3. Prior to attaching the gauges you will want to 'crack the cylinder' to remove any dirt from the cylinders valve prior to hooking up the gauges. Follow these directions to safely 'crack' a cylinder:
Stand to the side of the cylinder.
Make sure the cylinder's valve is pointing away from you.
Make certain that any gas coming out of the cylinder's valve will not hit any oily material.
Make certain that the gas that escapes from your cylinder's valve will not create a problem for other activities going on in the area.
Before attaching regulators, open the valve slightly for an instant and then close.
This removes any dust or foreign particles from the area where the gauges are to be attached.
4. Attach the regulators and release the adjusting screw on each of the regulators (this will keep the cylinder's contents from flowing when the main valve is opened).
5. Inspect both oxygen and acetylene hoses for signs of cracking. Do not use if cracking exists.
6. Install the desired torch head; make sure to inspect the o-rings on the torch to make sure there are no signs of cracking or splits.
7. Put on all the required PPE.
8. Locate a striker and make sure it makes a spark when activated.
9. Make sure the valves are closed on the torch head.
10. Stand to the side of the gauges and open the acetylene cylinder slowly, about 1/4 turn (90 degrees). Never open an acetylene cylinder more than 3/4 turn (270 degrees), and never operate acetylene at pressures greater than 15 psi. Acetylene gas is very unstable and it is quite unsafe at high pressures.
11. Make sure the cylinder's Key (used to open the cylinder's valve) stays on the cylinder, in the event that the cylinder needs to be shut off quickly.
12. Using the valves at the torch, purge both oxygen and fuel from the lines prior to lighting the torch.
13. Stand to the side of the gauges and slowly open the oxygen cylinder and eventually open it all the way.
14. With striker in hand, gloves on, welding goggles on you are ready to start the flame.
15. Slightly open the acetylene valve on the torch and then use the striker to ignite the acetylene. Adjust this flame until you have the appropriate flame for what you are trying to do. To adjust this flame you will need to increase or decrease the acetylene pressure, via the adjusting screw, on the gauge mounted on the cylinder. Remember; never operate acetylene gas at pressures greater than 15 psi!!!
16. Once the acetylene flame is established and the flame is stable, you are ready to introduce the oxygen gas into the flame. Turn the adjusting screw on the gauge assembly to the desired pressure. Slowly open the oxygen valve at the torch head and make an adjustment to achieve the desired flame. To develop the flame you desire, you may have to increase or decrease the oxygen pressure at the gauge.
17. Weld as necessary, using precautions to avoid contacting the gas hoses against anything hot.
18. Occasionally you may want to feel the acetylene cylinder and make sure it isn't heating up. If it is heating up shut the acetylene cylinder immediately.
19. When you are finished welding, the acetylene valve at the torch should be closed first, and then the oxygen valve should be closed secondly.
20. With both valves closed at the torch, you should then close the valves on both the oxygen and acetylene cylinders.
21. Now that the cylinders valves are closed, open the torches valves and relieve the pressure off the gauges.
22. Release the adjusting screws on the gauges so that the next time you hook them up, they will be in the correct state.
23. Put all equipment away and clean up after yourself.
1st rule is: buy tools, basics first. When you have tools- make your system. Too bad almost no one uses this method...Quote:
Originally posted by JSU
nice guide, but i dont think most people have enough cash for the oxy torches
Tonic - there are no restrictions, im buing this baby in a few days:
http://www.technogaz.com.pl/include/photo_gas.php?id=48
You dont need all that to braze copper with.
Can use Acetylene/Air too. I use this set up a lot too. Works great up to 1 1/8" pipe. And it lighter than Oxy/Acetylene set up.
You may hear from someone that is the way to do it but it is wrong , you are at a high risk of a flashback when you do this and if you flash arrestors are under a dollar they probable dont do too much of anything, a flash arrestor for a full size torch is about $30 and you need one for oxy and one for acetylene. You do it the way you want, but do not tell someone that is the right way when it is wrong.Quote:
Hmm... in germany you have to open oxigen and acetylene first and then light it... Launching Acetylene first is nearly forbidden Oo
Lots of people light it the way you do, and the reason is that it stops the soot from floating around, but if you have your torch set right it will decrease the amount and intensity of the smoke.
I guess it's like overclocking tbh, there is no set right and wrong way to do it, just a safest and/or most comfortable way :)
I will need to disassembly my baker block so I can solder the cap tube in there (I've ordered it brased... big mistake...).
Can you tell me what's the best way to do this?
I also must to tell that I'll go to pass the cap tube side by side with suction line (not inner the suction line) by making an extra hole in the top of the baker evap.
I must to do this because I think the flex hose I get is a litle bit thin to house the cap tube and make a proper suction work...
Is there any other way to join cap tube with cape tube without doing it with a larger tube embrassing the two joins like I saw here in a guide? It's very dificult to cut the two joins in 45º and then solder the two together?
A guide for drier will go just fine as well :)
Can you post an exclusive pic of your tool for making the joins? The tool you use to larger the tube after getting it hot (is that what you call "flare tool"?)
I will use silver 40% soldering for my project. Is this the best?
Please forgive if I'm bodering you with so many questions. Thanks for this guide!
Do it how you want to do it (and blow yourself up, not my Problem), i stop posting in this Thread by now.Quote:
Originally posted by NitroRat
You may hear from someone that is the way to do it but it is wrong , you are at a high risk of a flashback when you do this and if you flash arrestors are under a dollar they probable dont do too much of anything, a flash arrestor for a full size torch is about $30 and you need one for oxy and one for acetylene. You do it the way you want, but do not tell someone that is the right way when it is wrong.
Lots of people light it the way you do, and the reason is that it stops the soot from floating around, but if you have your torch set right it will decrease the amount and intensity of the smoke.
http://www.sk-hameln.de/st2.htm
http://www.gloor.ch/upload/files/Gas...uipment_en.pdf
I'm going to buy the Hobbyflame with the refillable propane tank.
Nice starter kit with the oxygen bottle, propane bottle, torch and hoses.
For around 350-375euro incl tax
edit:
Forgot about the regulators (expensive for 200bar oxy :D)
you buy the oxy bottle, 200bar, 2l
I know this has been talked about already earlier in the thread, but i would like to voice my opinion on a few subjects.
1.) Berkut is correct in that you should start with acetylene first, then add oxygen. You risk flashback if you do this differently.
2.) He is wrong in that acetylene requires oxygen to burn. That is why it is dissolved in acytone, anything above a few hundred PSI and acetylene itself will randomly explode. All acetylene needs to explode is to be pissed off, acytone keeps it happy.
3.) The oxygen valve on the bottle should be opened fully, to prevent leaks around the valve.
4.) the acetylene valve should be opened at most, 1/2 turn, to quickly close in case of emergancy.
5.) To properly shut it off, turn oxygen off first, then acetylene ( Didnt see this mentioned )
6.) Before using the tourch, check for leaks several different ways. You can fully assemble the tourch, open the valves, then close the valves. Watch the guages, they should not move. If you have a leak, use soapy water to find it. Please, dont use a match :D
7.) Never lay an acetylene bottle on its side, bad things can happen. Its ok to lay an oxygen bottle on its side.
8.) Never go above 30psi on the lines for acetylene, 15 should be plenty for anything ever needed. I have cut 2inch thick steel with only 10psi of acetylene. if you go above 30, the acytone begins to boil, and will leave the bottle ( smells like dirty socks ) then you have a bomb.
9.) you "should" loosen the adjusting screw on regulators before opening bottles, but i never do... i know.... i know....:sofa:
10.) dont use teflon tape, or locktite on regulators of fittings.... Believe it or not, but some of the idiots i work with have done this. I was the fool though, for letting people who do not know a thing about these to use it. They needed to cut re-bar, i should have handed them a port-a-band. They are pressure fittings, teflon will not stop a leak, and locktite..... man i work with idiots.
11.) sun glasses are not adequate
12.) keep hoses behind you, not in front and under what you are working on ( idiots i work with ).
13.) put caps back on bottles before transport ( idiots i work with )
14.) shut the tourch off any time you are going to need both hands for something else. IE, never set the torch down while its on.
15.) Although hard, dont panic if you get flashback, panicing can kill you. Flashback sounds like a gazoo inside the mixxing chamber, quickly turn off the acetylene, then oxygen.
16.) you should have reverse flow valves installed after the regulators, and before the mixxing chamber.
IMOP - You should only use victor brand products.
Okey, ready for all the ........ :D
May be someone will continue this guide, because i think its very interesting for noobs in O/A. And may be i'm going to buy one for my future phase-change.
It is important to keep in mind that the torch heats the metal, and the metal melts the filler material, not the torch. If the metal isn't hot enough to melt the material, it won't stick properly.
True, there is a very fine line between too hot, and too cold.
Too hot and you burn holes into the metal, cause exessive corrosion, lower the tencel strength of the joint, and the filler metal will not flow properly ( solder will just run off, and if you are brazing it will pop ).
Too cold and you dont bond the metals, have a weak joint. The filler metal will bead, not flow.
For most of the stuff people do in these forums a propane torch should be adequate, and easier to maintain the proper temperature range.
I've gotta say, trying to braze up anything apart from a straight pipe connection with a propane torch is quite difficult. From my experience trying to braze the pipe to compressor or pipe to condensor is very difficult with just propane because the compressor and condensor are just large heatsinks and suck all the heat away from the join. Moving onto MAPP didnt seem to make much difference, though it got the straight connections up to temp much quicker which reduced the amount of oxidation/discolouration. If you try to braze up an evaporator with just a propane torch id say its almost impossible to do. Using O2/Propane makes brazing much easier and can cope with anything you will need to do. When brazing up the evap i find building a small brick enclosure helps alot. It keeps the heat in to some extent and the brick wont draw the heat away from the evap asmuch as say a vice.
Well if i will buy propane/oxygen torch can i braze 10mm pipe to muy compressor, which have about 15mm pipe length on discharge ?
The whole what to light first. acetylene first the add oxygen this way you can also control the flame better. This was told to me by a certified weld tech with over 16 years of all sorts of welding and such under his belt. :) and yes some one finish this please ^_^
could you show how to brze/connect steel and copper?
What Gary said is godly..
Heat up the the inner tube, then the swedge joint, try to keep the flame on the bottom, add braize alloy from the top, draw it into the joint with the torch. Remember it will always flow to the hottest point.
I very rarely have a leak with this method. Its usually because I was doing some large pipe and forgot to turn down the flame for some 1/4" line. Then ended up burning a hole in the bottom LOL.
To connect steel and copper you need to use 95% alloy. The swedge has to be the steel (female). What you do is heat up the copper till the alloy flows on it. Then move your flame to the steel and quikly draw the alloy into the joint. Cleanliness is next to godliness when it comes to disimular metal braizing.
It is tricky... Might want to practice on a couple test pieces first just to get hang of it.
Maybe someone could make a movie..
I actualy got it.... I used some flux from home depot and some dynaflux, its working so far.
nope didnt get it, found a leak. When you say 95% allow you mean 95% silver right?
err... its 56% silver not 95%
Don't really prefer the wire type. The rod with blue flux on it works well.
http://www.jwharris.com/jwref/chart/
Nice vid on brazing up Al
http://www.muggyweld.com/videos/5clip5300.wmv
I see there is still some disagreement about how to light it. It all depends on the type of handle. The type used in europe should be light the way Sidewinder does. (Sidewinder happens to live in Europe so he does it the right way) In this type of handle the oxygen sucks out the acetylene. You can check if you have this type of handle by putting your finger on the acetylene intake and then turn the oxygen open. If you feel suction at your finger then you should light it like Sidewinder does. A picture of how to do this test can be found on http://www.nil.nl/fris41.htm (the picture that says figuur 4)
Just RTFM. If you have a quality torch the manual should be correct for your specific type of torch.
Ahhh... guys, i can´t get the :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana:*** copper hot enough.
Compressor and Condenser suck all the heat... I´m going to buy a new O2 bottle if i can afford it :(
any ideas ?
this torch is crap, i know :(
my trash: