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LardArse, Nice Work! Luv that piping! :)Quote:
Originally posted by pippin88
Nice system. I didn't understand how a dual evap would work before this.
Anyone done a triple evap?
Bowman played around with a triple evap and eventually discarded the thing. It's in the "Modshop thread" somewhere, iirc.
sorry, thought it was an autocascade. Even though it isnt, its still awesome. I want to learn more about the whole dual evap thing because i plan on doing a dual evap eventually. Is there a way you can use a short piece of cap tube, and have a valve at the end that can be turned to restrict more/less, to give the same effect of a longer cap tube without having to go through the hassle of re-charging the system?
Good question ... I believe that when we went through planing and testing we were using a hand valve as well. If I remember correctly it worked quiet well! :DQuote:
sorry, thought it was an autocascade. Even though it isnt, its still awesome. I want to learn more about the whole dual evap thing because i plan on doing a dual evap eventually. Is there a way you can use a short piece of cap tube, and have a valve at the end that can be turned to restrict more/less, to give the same effect of a longer cap tube without having to go through the hassle of re-charging the system?
Yea bowman has. It didnt work to well. Hard to tune and -40C directly on the NB made condensation issues galore.Quote:
Originally posted by pippin88
Nice system. I didn't understand how a dual evap would work before this.
Anyone done a triple evap?
hmmm...
I wonder if you could take a piece copper pipe, and run the cap-tube in it with a nut/bolt inside, and have a magnet outside to turn the bolt, to keep the entire valve inclosed. It could also be made fairly small too...
AHHH, i need to draw a picture!
Insulation:
http://www.vr-zone.com.sg/Shamino/dualevap/pics/23.JPG
http://www.vr-zone.com.sg/Shamino/dualevap/pics/24.JPG
Foam tape looks so much classier than duct tape.
http://www.vr-zone.com.sg/Shamino/dualevap/pics/25.JPG
http://www.vr-zone.com.sg/Shamino/dualevap/pics/26.JPG
not sure if it would work need a really, really strong magnetQuote:
Originally posted by someone
hmmm...
I wonder if you could take a piece copper pipe, and run the cap-tube in it with a nut/bolt inside, and have a magnet outside to turn the bolt, to keep the entire valve inclosed. It could also be made fairly small too...
AHHH, i need to draw a picture!
chech this out if you interested in not using cap tube and want an adjustable one (by berkut)
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...threadid=35262
God, I'm so out of my depth with this stuff it isn't even funny :(
Finishing her up:
http://www.vr-zone.com.sg/Shamino/dualevap/pics/27.JPG
http://www.vr-zone.com.sg/Shamino/dualevap/pics/28.JPG
http://www.vr-zone.com.sg/Shamino/dualevap/pics/29.JPG
Blend's giving me -59C @ 8" HG, High side 230 PSI, can go up to 240+ PSI
http://www.vr-zone.com.sg/Shamino/dualevap/pics/30.JPG
A lil sad that the 1HP rotary sounds like what it should sound, not silent.
Nice LardArse :). Wish i had those refrigerants you have :D. Or atleast that R22.
Theres no way it will work, it simply wont turn the screw, even if you'd use one from a tokamak (nuclear fustion reactor- they use it to hold and compress plazma consisted of heavy hydrogene)Quote:
Originally posted by pc ice
no i dont think so.no magnet will be strong enough.
Blend ? You mixed R22 with R410 ?
I think they won't blend azeotrpically on their own? I have R290 + R22 + R410 -> few gushes For the rest of the top up if charge not enough I will use R22.
Trying out the orientation on an ancient casing:
http://www.vr-zone.com.sg/Shamino/dualevap/pics/31.JPG
http://www.vr-zone.com.sg/Shamino/dualevap/pics/32.JPG
Hi LardArse...
Congratulations on your new beauty. She really turned out wonderful. :banana:
I also "hope" that this cleares the road for your autocascade project ... :D
However, I did have a question also ... I am currently designing a chiller which will operate at around -80°C ... I have the heat transfer fluids, special pumps, stainless steel hoses, etc ...
However, I still need a "Chiller-Block" for the liquid to circulate through. This needs to have connection for the stainless steel hoses ... Also .. whoever builds this one for me should also take care of the insulation and "case" with the mounting holes etc....
Can you or anyone reading this help me out?
Awesome work :D
To bad your not in the states and able to mass produce them :p:
I hope you plan on puting it in a MAC!
J/K
Very nice, keep up the good work LardArse. :banana:
Big mac attack>>>> OC a G5 and then run super PI????
Thx guys, still waiting for the hardware and casing for this cooler. Probably an A64 3400+ with Albatron mobo and a 9800 series card.
Placebo, you can get the stainless steel hoses made to end with a copper pipe or swivel nut like these:
http://www.vr-zone.com.sg/Shamino/dualevap/pics/14.JPG
I would suggest copper pipe ends which you can braze onto your block like in my pics.
Or you can have a pipe with a flare end and a flare nut to connect to the hose through a flare connector like this:
http://www.vr-zone.com/Shamino/cascade/casartpic78.JPG
But of course you will need 3/8" or bigger pipes for good flow of liquid. I still don't see the advantgae of chilled liquid, only more work and trouble.
I'd much prefer a brazed connection myself especially on a part where temperature will fluctuate.
First of all thanks for your response.
I have considered both, the nut and braze on solution for the stainless steel hosing. I haven't decided which one to use yet.Quote:
Placebo, you can get the stainless steel hoses made to end with a copper pipe or swivel nut like these:
The one problem I am still having, is that all stainless steel hoses I have looked at, had a "rubber" hose in them (mostly teflon PTFE) ...
PTFE does not widthstand temperatures of -100°C (at least I don't think it will) ...
Also ... what would you recommend as a sealant when using the "skrew/nut" connections? Viton?
So my question is ... what type of hoses do you use ... e.g. in your ethylene cascade?
I guess this is all a personal taste ... I like the idea of having an autocascade chilling a liquid which will than cool CPU, NB and a Video Card ...Quote:
But of course you will need 3/8" or bigger pipes for good flow of liquid. I still don't see the advantgae of chilled liquid, only more work and trouble.
Personally I have not seen this done at a temperature range of -90°C - So I figured ... why not?
That sounds like a winner to me ... And I have always liked the AMD performance in 3D Games (perfect to show off :D )Quote:
Probably an A64 3400+ with Albatron mobo and a 9800 series card.
Don't forget to get some decent memory ... My favorites at the moment are the OCZ EL's ...
One last question ... are you still planing on realizing that auto-cascade?
Good Luck!
You would wanna use Stainless steel inner also. Copper washers and leak lock as sealant will be fine as suggested by Chilly. I'm using telfon hoses ATM on my cascades, slow leak through these, will be switching to full stainless steel when my copper washers arrive.
Autocascade, yes, why not, it will be very fun :)