Hmm... I hadn't thought of that. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by jumper2high
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Hmm... I hadn't thought of that. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by jumper2high
yes, I also found that using hot air gun has much better success rate than drag soldering for this kind 0.33mm leg spacing IC. but it should be done very carefully, 360 degree maximum 10 second. After the solder melt and the IC self align , hold the temperture for 10s and stop the heat gun immediately. For me, drag soldering is good for >0.4mm leg spacing.
Another item on sale from diyinhk
http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/1...pmodmcp350.jpg
Laing DDC water pump 12W swiftech MCP350 with heatsinkQuote:
Each pump is modded and tested one by one. The PCB has going over three version and It's 100% bug free. We only use top quality component, Dale resister, Japanese capacitor, 2oz copper PCB, Gold plated heatsink, Kester lead free solder etc.. As the price told, profit is not the target, more user of our product and your good comment is the mostly wanted.
I would have to question the actual effectiveness of that heat sink with it being buried inside the plastic housing.
+1 on doubts.
I remember simple mod with cutting holes in pump plastic casing, was very effective in bringing temps down even with original PCB.
This is another PCB mod, sanyo motor driver:welcome:Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
Test shows that without the heatsink, the pump can only run with stock top. i.e. maximum ~0.9A.
with the heatsink, it can run with aftermarket top and up to 1.5A before trigger the overheat protection. The pump stop when overheat detect, and auto restart when temperature is reduced. This should be a standard feature seems not available in the Laing original PCB.
this sanyo uses "sine wave" can drive motor more silent than "PWM", but more heat. Test shows that Toshiba PWM can drive up to 2A without extra heatsink. for xtremer, toshiba PWM. for silent love - sanyo sine wave:)
@wizard1238
How do you mount the pump as there is no mounting ears?
I'm not saying it doesn't work, I'm saying it doesn't work as well as it could.Quote:
Originally Posted by wizard1238
Heat sinks require a constant supply of moving air in order to be able to efficiently shed the heat they collect, yours isn't getting any fresh air because it's inside the pump housing. If the housing had even a few holes in them, the heat sink would do a much better job. :up:
Yes, It should perform better if open to free air:up: you are right:welcome:Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
But it has already let the sanyo driver run at it's full potential 1.5A inside the original plastic housing.
Without it, we can only use stock top and test shows that the sanyo driver will overheat at only 0.9A even run nude without the original plastic housing:p:
Maybe this thread might be of interest. Should be simple to make with dremel at hand. This was done by just drilling holes in hausing.
But though not the cheapest, most effective and best looking probably would be this replacement pump hausing by Koolance. It's not only air open, but also from metal, +heatsink, +thermal pads from fets to heatsink, +superb looks. :up:
I'm still confused as to why Koolance decided to go with the color they choose for it. I really think either nickle or black would've looked much better.
the koolance solution is good for long run and it's the only solution for the original laing PCB. It's amazing and superb looks:D heat transfer from IC leg to PCB first to thermal pads to heatsink.Quote:
Originally Posted by churchy
this gold plated heatsink is designed only for this sanyo solution, It make direct contact to the IC top for immediately and quick heat dissipation. I tried 3M silicone thermal pad between the heatsink and sanyo IC top in the very beginning, the pump can run up from 0.9A to 1A only and trigger the overheat protection...direct contact heatsink rise the overheat protection trigger originally at 0.9A to 1.5A. Actually, I am very lucky to find it out, the 12W pump can use aftermarket top and run stable finally before it's go public:) Test result shows that EK/XSPC aftermarket top rise the current from 0.9A to 1.1A, there are still 40% headroom to go for this sanyo with heatsink solution:cool: Actually, 40% headroom may be too much even for aerospace industry:p:
All it is 4 metal springs. Although I haven't used the pumps yet but I do not think they are all that useful.Quote:
Originally Posted by mav2000
Anyways is anyone willing to do the soldering required to these PCBs if I were to send the gear to him?
I had a DDC pulled from a mac with one of those compensator things. The rubber diaphragm split and it leaked :( I'd sooner get a DDC without that compensator thingy.
This is a common issue with the DDC-VC pumps once they are taken out of the 12psi pressure loop and used in a regular WCing loop with a RES. The diaphragm has no pressure to keep it pressed against the backing plate held by the four springs, thus the rubber diaphragm can easily split.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparky
Honestly the diaphragm doesn't look all that cheap to me. Both of mine look to be in great shape. And if by chance it leaks from there I don't see why I couldn't just block small hole to the diaphragm w/ a dab of silicon.
I would like to order one to play with, but how do you mount it?
I know it was already posted somewhere on XS, but just keep all in one place:
http://i.ebayimg.com/08/!CD2JnwQBmk~...7meJQ~~_35.JPG
http://www.diyinhk.com/ebayimg/DDCIMG_9964.jpgQuote:
This is a Laing DDC pump bottom heatsink with vibration damper. It is suitable to all version of DDC pump include MCP350 MCP355, the newest MCP35X, and the taller Apple G5 VC version.
LinkQuote:
It is a gold plated metal plate with direct contact to the ddc bottom. The metal plate has a silicone feet to ensure better air flow in the bottom. It avoid the danger of overheat problem like the traditional way which fullly cover the bottom with sponge gel for vibration damping. The silicone feet also turely decoupled the ddc pump, not direct load path from the pump to the computer case, it is ture isolation.
do i hear gold? :confused:
BTW, I am Xtreme Enthusiast now :D
This bottom is made from mcpcb (metal core pcb). It has 2OZ copper layer and 1.6MM aluminum layer(like a double layer heatsink).
This type of professional PCB is used for best thermal transfer of electronic component. It is much expensive than ordinary PCB.
The copper area under the DDC bottom is gold plated, it uses the same treatment of PCB terminal(aka gold finger).
DDC pump repair in 3 minutes guide video:)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_Rpty4lWgg
Is there another part to that? :shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by wizard1238
But you didn't finish soldering the wires to the PCB...:DQuote:
Originally Posted by wizard1238
Pretty neat seeing the heat gun soldering iron in action.:up:
Mine is sat in customs still :(, so has anyone gotten anything yet? I am going to run a dual pump setup and tempted to run these togther
we need part two.Quote:
Originally Posted by wizard1238
great work.:up:
I just been chatting to the man on eBay
Seams like they are apealing to our need. Most of us can solder. Im sure we don't need the reflow air gun to remove the coil wires, an soldering iron will do fineQuote:
Thank you for interesting in our product, The Sanyo pcb assembled version for the 10W black rotor DDC is on sale in the ebay store now. The Toshiba assembled pcb for the 18W purple rotor DDC will be on sale soon. What is your ddc rotor color to repair? Thanks