Thermaltake Armor MX+ DARK Mod.

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Originally Posted by DARK_01

..Yea i know its long im just trying to get as much water as possible into the system.

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Why for? unless you have 100lr reservoir it's almost of no difference if you think that it will take longer to heat up water in loop. Few seconds, or half a minute .. system will reach temp equilibrium soon enough, sooner then time you ran heavy loads like games :) Otherwise it's just wasted hose/case inner space.

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Also i wanted extra hose so it was easy to put onto the mobo l8er after leak testing it.

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Usually motherboards aren't running too hot, i'd prefer to put as extra on liquid cooling gpu-s first, as those can be rather noisy when runing heavy load. Imho one 2x120rad wouldn't be enough for quiet cooling of both overclocked cpu+some top gpu though.

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Also the fittings i used had a small oring and the old jump im using atm had a larger oring layout so it squashed it and made it leak. thus why i use plumbers tape it fix the leak.
Btw Was just the jump mostly that leaked. But leak free now :up: was mainly coz of all the elbows and stuff i used to save space. Why it leaked.
Thanks Churchy for advice ill remember not to use it on acrylic.

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BTW, it's sometimes possible to make O-ring to leak if you overtighten it aswell :), not just if not tightened enough, so it's not always best to tighten as hard as possible, especially because fittings these days have only short thread and you can snap it too if overtighten. Replacement O-rings or O-rings of different size usually can be bought at liquid cooling component shops.

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Originally Posted by churchy

Why for? unless you have 100lr reservoir it's almost of no difference if you think that it will take longer to heat up water in loop. Few seconds, or half a minute .. system will reach temp equilibrium soon enough, sooner then time you ran heavy loads like games :) Otherwise it's just wasted hose/case inner space.

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For a little extension of pvc hose theres no dif. i run a 20ltr external res made of glass, the extra surface area in contact with the glass gives me bit better water temps.. ,but unless its copper tube then you can't get extra cooling from tube length..if i remember correctly christian that hose connected the pump to the cpu when it was located at the base of the case..and you wanna keep the long hose for routing the new xspc 360rad when you get your typhoonIII res?? :shrug:
don't worry i'll send ya a 1.5mtr bit when i get some :up:

not entirely correct about the volume churchy,if using pvc to gain extra volume your correct as pvc has extremely poor thermal transfer and the water would eventually reach equillibrium, but with just an extra 1ltr of volume with the right material could net ya an extra 10-15 percent performance easy!! :)

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Originally Posted by pooal

For a little extension of pvc hose theres no dif. i run a 20ltr external res made of glass, the extra surface area in contact with the glass gives me bit better water temps.. ,but unless its copper tube then you can't get extra cooling from tube length..if i remember correctly christian that hose connected the pump to the cpu when it was located at the base of the case..and you wanna keep the long hose for routing the new xspc 360rad when you get your typhoonIII res?? :shrug:
don't worry i'll send ya a 1.5mtr bit when i get some :up:

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Sick as. Sweet 360Rad & some more hose :D your awesome man:up:
Yea as pooal said im rerouting my system when i get my new jump and res. so it will looker cleaner soon enough. wanted to keep some lengths.
i know its a bit messy. :(
Ps this is my first WC setup so its a learning curve ;).
next build will be neater i promise :D.

if you have say 5 x 6v leds that are rated at say 100ma then you have 6v 600ma and 3.6w being drawn from the source, thus you are trying to run 6v 600ma 3.6w through all 5 x leds, any extra power than what there rated at will pretty much just produce wasted heat(AKA more leds equal more resistance), wich will require more power from source to produce what the rated leds are trying to draw..

to measure the wasted heat is easy, just measure volt and current at input and output of the leds. and times the volt by the current to get your watts, the output will naturally have a little less, the difference is your wasted heat(heat produced by the leds) so you could use that chris to work out how much heat your globes are actually putting off

e.g. if you measure the difference in current from input to output on one led the output will naturally be lower(the dif is the heat produced from the led), thats ok!! but lets say you now want to send that power to another led to power it instead of returning it to the source(parallel),well the first led can only allow so much current to pass through, the higher you go the more it resists and the more it heats up, and by the time you get to the 5th led......so if you want to draw more current for power hungry devices like speakers,subwoofers etc then use parallel..but in your case then use series it will produce less heat i imagine.

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Originally Posted by pooal

not entirely correct about the volume churchy,if using pvc to gain extra volume your correct as pvc has extremely poor thermal transfer and the water would eventually reach equillibrium, but with just an extra 1ltr of volume with the right material could net ya an extra 10-15 percent performance easy!! :)

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Show test numbers or it never happen.
Problem is not only thermal resistance of material, but also heat dissipation area. It's enormous in rads, if you sum all the area of rad fins, while almost nothing in tubing. Even if tubing is all made from brass tubes :P

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Originally Posted by churchy

Show test numbers or it never happen.
Problem is not only thermal resistance of material, but also heat dissipation area. It's enormous in rads, if you sum all the area of rad fins, while almost nothing in tubing. Even if tubing is all made from brass tubes :P

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so your telling me that a tank 30x4x10 (cm) made from .8mm sheet copper would have no effect..it's over 600cm/2 of ambient cooled copper
and 2mtr of 3/8" copper tube has 556cm/2, you honestly don't expect me to believe that with air flow, that this type of surface contact area would not do anything, i never said you could match a pc rad with just 1ltr of extra volume i said you could net an extra 10-15 percent ontop :)

you wrote "Show test numbers or it never happen" well first of all it's only common sense for one, but if you require results to see that more surface area is better, than your contradicting yourself, you wrote
"Problem is not only thermal resistance of material, but also heat dissipation area." ?? not to be rude but just to the point :up:

For reference i have a generic 120 rad here with 12 x fins 12cm long by 2cm wide thats 24cm/2 each side and theres two sides to a fin, so times one side by 24 and you get 576cm/2..and to be clear for every one here, it is not just the surface contact area that gives rads there cooling performance, a great deal of it comes from the fact that the water channels wall thickness is an ultra thin 0.1mm-0.3mm...

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Originally Posted by pooal

so your telling me that a tank 30x4x10 (cm) made from .8mm sheet copper would have no effect..it's over 600cm/2 of ambient cooled copper
and 2mtr of 3/8" copper tube has 556cm/2, you honestly don't expect me to believe that with air flow that this type of surface contact area would not do anything, i never said you could match a pc rad with just 1ltr of extra volume i said you could net an extra 10-15 percent ontop :)

you wrote "Show test numbers or it never happen" well first of all it's only common sense for one, but if you require results to see that more surface area is better, than your contradicting yourself, you wrote
"Problem is not only thermal resistance of material, but also heat dissipation area." ?? not to be rude but just to the point :up:

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LOL Can't tell pooal what is what.
he is one of the smartest blokes i know so if u want a deep explanation about why something work's better then something else just ask.
he is the owner of knowledge :D. LOL

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Originally Posted by pooal

if you have say 5 x 6v leds that are rated at say 100ma then you have 6v 600ma and 3.6w being drawn from the source, thus you are trying to run 6v 600ma 3.6w through all 5 x leds, any extra power than what there rated at will pretty much just produce wasted heat, wich will require more power from source to produce the power the rated leds are trying to draw..

to measure the wasted heat is easy, just measure volt and current at input and output of the leds. and times the volt by the current to get your watts, the output will naturally have a little less, the difference is your wasted heat(heat produced by the leds) so you could use that chris to work out how much heat your globes are actually putting off

e.g. if you measure the difference in current from input to output on one led the output will naturally be lower(the dif is the heat produced from the led), thats ok!! but lets say you now want to send that power to another led to power it instead of returning it to the source(parallel),well the first led can only allow so much current to pass through, the higher you go the more it resists and the more it heats up, and by the time you get to the 5th led your drawing way more current than you needed..so if you want to draw more current for power hungry devices like speakers,subwoofers etc.. then use parallel..but in your case then use series it will draw less current(not voltage bro..common mistake) :up:

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Sweet thanks for advice ill keep that in mind :cool:
im going to re do my lighting anyways.:p: