i would just keep it all copper and not worry about it. Nickel-plating it would look sweet too. The block looks good otherwise. :up:
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i would just keep it all copper and not worry about it. Nickel-plating it would look sweet too. The block looks good otherwise. :up:
Quote:
Originally Posted by nateman_doo
the liquid is charges with heat and friction creating a small charge, then having the 2 metals in the closed loop will also generate a small charge and since they have a large difference in electro negativity the aluminum will move to the copper and clog things up destroying all copper items in your loop. and even military grade anodized aluminum will corrode in a closed loopQuote:
Originally Posted by nateman_doo
Ding Ding Ding... We have a winner.Quote:
Originally Posted by zanzabar
Aluminum is fine, providing your entire loop is aluminum.
Copper is a much better heat conductor, so stick with copper.
Can you say this dimension on pic?
I am wondering if possible make fullcover with waterchannel on it
http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/3756/70890968.jpg
I plan to stick with copper in the first place being that heat travels twice as fast through the metal. I hardly think that it generates enough electricity to really tear up anything (provided you put in some anti-corrosion additives. My chiller proves that to me at least. But that's just me. now that we beat that dead horse i guess.
I plan on offering both copper, and aluminum blocks. I hope to have it done by the weekend.
There is a cap under there, would be a very small choke point for the waterQuote:
Originally Posted by Duniek
After HOURS of milling, the aluminum block is complete (less sealing, lapping, and finish sanding)
http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...0918091703.jpg
http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...0918091803.jpg
http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...0918091814.jpg
http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...0918091813.jpg
looks nice, u should make some more of them the quality looks great and it could lead to some profit. u just need the copper now.
copper + (cheap steel or alu) =Quote:
Originally Posted by nateman_doo
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_1156.jpg
Ditch the alu bro.
Your gonna get into more trouble here with the alu then you want.
The copper is starting to look nice tho.
I am not ditching anything. let the buyer beware, I will make whatever someone wants. If someone wants aluminum, and they choose to use non-corrosive techniques to treat their water loop, then they shouldn't have any problems. I am sure 99% of people will choose the copper, (as would I) but alum was easier to make, and its cheaper. Plus I need a reference block for myself to make future blocks so the alu fits the bill.Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
Remember, this block was me testing how long it would take to make the block from scratch, (plus give you guys some eye candy to look at in the mean time while I work on the copper version).
Looks really sweet, nice job.
thanks!!Quote:
Originally Posted by karbonkid
With the new black, bitspower fittings
http://www.evga.com/forums/upfiles/4...8E64A85475.jpg
Work on copper will begin now...
Can you do some flow tests on it as well?
Question, does it leak? i dont see anything that is sealingthe 2 parts other than screws....
Don't think I am going to seal this block. it is a test block to test fabrication methods. Also for alignment of screw holes. If I seal it... it will be "difficult" to take apart.
Construction on the copper will begin shortly.
As for flow tests:
I don't have any equipment to measure any flow. I connect the pump, and what goes it, comes out, as long as its fast, there is zero restriction. The internal volume of the block is larger then the volume of a 1/2" pipe, and as you can see, the water travels straight. I don't see any problems.
if you seal it all you need to do is mill out a space for a rubber gasket that will fit around the thing.
This.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark Bishop
Yeah like what has been said above me, a sealing gasket is all that is needed, no glues/sealants. but fo this you would need to mill it out in your engineering samples to make sure you dont get leakage or weakening from tightening etc, and then leakage onto parts.
its looking good though btw.
thanks. Not quite sure what u mean. Permatex will work. I won't do this alu block simply for the sake of I don't wanna take it apart a dozen times to make other copies of it. The blocks have tremendous value for hole templates alone, and the measurements. I already marked out a copper block for the real deal. I will keep you guys in the loop. no worries ;) i always appreciate suggestions.
He's refering to this:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...-Nickel_01.jpg
You can see the o-ring. People do like to take their blocks apart to clean them, and some may like to see an option to add in an acrylic top. It is easier to do all this with an oring vs having to use permatex.
Absolutely. I agree, much easier to take the block apart with an o-ring. However, cutting a channel for an 0-ring adds more meat on the outside, and takes away from the internal cavity where the water sits, making the block less effective.
Also it would be a point of failure on the block. Not a whole lot of room to work with, and Permatex works just fine. At least you still have the ability to take the block apart if I use Permatex, rather then braze them together. Think of it as changing your thermostat in your car, just outside the car and it wont be so bad. ;)
Any new updates? I've been out of the country for awhile.
still working on the copper version. Got the rough blocks cut, marked for milling, and now I am marking the screw holes at this very moment. hopefully I will take some picture tonight. Hopefully no other distractions will come around.
updates:
http://www.evga.com/forums/upfiles/4...7B0F495AA3.jpg
couldn't believe that i managed to get the tip out.
Successful drilling, and countersinking.
http://www.evga.com/forums/upfiles/4...0E2D3299B6.jpg