Why wouldnt you use an inhibitor package??? Thats just asking for trouble.
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should still use 5% antifreeze though :) if u do that you will almost never need to replace the coolant.
It's much easier - in the future I do not want to use aluminum in any form in system.
Simplist solution, and by far the least agruement drawing:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0867.jpg
Copper Top and end it.
I have the New Swiftech GTZ and also the GTX with the copper top, i love the way the copper top looks.
Also on the new Swiftech GTZ, the black and silver is a sweet combo.
I think it will make some good blocks for the revived duality~
Where is the best place to get the copper GTX replacement top?
Axis
Guys, if you got a REAL coolant, not that crap stuff they mix up for anyone who's dumb enough to buy it at 10$ a bottle (while cost is somewhere around 1$, most of it for the bottle anyway), you don't have problems.
I currently run 3 Apogee GTX blocks in different comps, used to be 4. They've been running for around a year now, last time I checked (few weeks ago) there were no traces of any corrosion.
Hell, I sell lots of passive WC rigs that use aluminum rads (copper is useless without airflow, for passive rads AL is the only choice) and no problems whatsoever.
Just go to your nearest car supplier, buy 1,5l of BASF G48 at 15$ and mix it 1:10 with destilled water. You can run anything you want in that loop, no way in hell anything's gonna corrode.
I also like the color, it's a nice turquoise blue when mixed :up:
Also you get around 15l of coolant for maybe 20$.
Yeah, the mcr220 has no aluminum in it...
jcool,
BASF G48. Isn't that the same as the high end "Mobil Antifreeze Extra" that comes standard in the Porsche 911 and BMW M5? I think I have a gallon of that stuff in the garage :) although I think mine is red in colour. If I remember correctly, it has an agent called "Glysantin" (whetever that means) or something like that lol :)
{oops.. just checked and mine's G30, also made by BASF, but may be a different product...}
BASF G48 is hardcore stuff. I can't think of anything that will corrode in it offhand.
CM fluid is based on it, and my experiences with that are amazing.
I'm buying a gallon for one of the loops in Mithril. Any US side trade names?
Is the 30 any good Ian? I need other colors...
Google tells me it's G11 pentosin. Funny, that. I'd mix it stronger than we're used to for that app, but that stuff is pretty awesome. I just used to run it in one of my go fast cars I had before I got married.
Never used G-30 inside a computer (kind of expensive) lol Well the G-30 is superb for automotive needs in a certain vehicle brand, if that is what you are asking :)
I also have yellow G-05 as well, again excellent when used in a certain automotive brand.
As for G-48, its not the regular G-11 (that Petra sells) that makes into regular BMWs. G-48 is used in ultra high end BMWs,and if its good enough for the M5 and the new V8 M3, then I guess its good stuff lol
The Germans sure have a bunch of confusing numbers lol
G48 made it into my go-fast buggy when I was younger. I remember coolant changes being as clean as the day it went in. Till I blew the motor, but we all know what happens then.
Wish I still had some. I got a project though, and it'll be in it. Just so I can watch XS squirm, mostly.
You are right guys, it is used for high end cars.
The key ingredient is glysantine, G30 works perfectly fine as well (just that it's red, I prefer the bluish color of G48 ;) )
Glysantine isn't toxic if you don't swallow it, unlike pentosine. DON'T use anything containing pentosine, it's friggin dangerous guys.
So yeah IanY, you can use that G30 all right. As long as you like red coolant :D
NaeKuh
Like your RAM cooling :D
my Swiftech 220:
Factotum, what you're looking at there is likely solder coating the tube... that is how they bond the copper louvered fins, after all.
I have several damaged and punctured MCR-QP radiators here and they're definitely brass-tubed.
Yeah, I wouldn't have known until I saw a "How it's made on radiators".
The tubes are all coated in solder before the fins are added in between. Then the whole thing is heated and that's what solders the fins to the tubes.
I've managed to poke holes in one of my MCR320's a while back and confirm brass tubing as well.