Just don't drink your coolant and the 1:9 ratio will do you fine.
Still the aluminum impeller is not what you want. I don't know, but what is the feasibility of having one machined out of brass or copper?
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Just don't drink your coolant and the 1:9 ratio will do you fine.
Still the aluminum impeller is not what you want. I don't know, but what is the feasibility of having one machined out of brass or copper?
Ethylene Glycol is highly toxic. Toxic enough to be implicated in a number of murder cases. And it's an awfully slow and painful way to die. It is especially nice if you want to kill someone because it is sweet. so you could make lemonade with it or something. It is also dangerous for pets due to the combination of its high toxicity and tasting like corn syrup. I can't imagine why anyone would want to use it in watercooling unless they are using a chiller. Propylene Glycol OTOH is safe enough to be FDA approved as a food additive.
I will look into having an impeller made out of copper; I just will have difficulty finding anyone willing to make one for a very reasonable price.
Regarding anticorrosives I gather that
1) the optimal ratio is 1:10
2) antifreeze designed to avoid cavitation and galvanic corrosion is preferable thus something like G12 could do
3) there is still a minor issue: I would like to add UV additives to the mixture but anything other than red will react negatively in terms of end result. I was hoping for green but it seems that being forced to use a red anticorrosion agent I would eventually end up with something dark purple. Isn't there an alternative to G12 that looks more blu/green? (this is not important but it would look very good in the end)
thanks!
P.s. I am looking for info on building a 230v potentiometre and a way to connect system startup and pump startup. Not so many people have 230v pumps in the forum so I have difficulty in finding relevant threads.
Maybe some of you have some advice/hint to threads or forums they can give me.
thanks
Eheim pumps are 240 V. Try searching eheim relay. As for changing the voltage for the pump, try to see if you can get hold of a lamp dimmer spec at 300 W. I don't know how well it would work though, as a lamp is considered as an inductive {charge? my english is failing me here} and the pump is capacitive.
But if I were you I wouldn't mess with it. I had once a 2300W pot for a heating element so that I could control the power transferred to a liquid, over time the transmission lines became dust covered and started a fire. Thank God that I was home and noticed that the power went out.
I replied before seeing other people address it. Like I said, some of you did not know before. Now you do. If you pet dies and you just did what you always do then that is on your shoulders.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexontherocks
I was just sharing my personal experience. Unfortunately accidents happen so I agree with you: better to err on the side of caution than be sorrow.
My best choice would be to use high quality barbs,good strong metal clamps and thick tubing. Then of course I would not normally leave my computer on during my absence but just in case the afore mentioned precautions should suffice.
Getting back to my watercooling rig I am curious: have tests been conducted on watercooling setups do determine wether it is better to keep the circuit flowing 24/7or is it ok to have the pump going on and off?
Good question. I run my clinic server 24/7. No problems. I have had to add coolant once in the last year that about it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexontherocks
Glycol also has a higher viscosity than plain water. Antifreeze also acts as an anti-boiling agent. Coolant temps in car engines typically run 180F+, and it's not uncommon to have it over 212F on a hot day with heavy driving. Heat reduces the viscosity and I believe cars are mostly aluminum (head, pump, and radiator anyway).
as far as I know G12 is effective against galvanic corrosion and cavitation. I believe substancial occurance of both is due to the presence of metals with different characteristics in the loop. I was actually pretty amazed that this guy on this forum found a racing car radiator made out copper. As fr as I know copper is a better absorbant of heat than aluminium but it is just not as effective as releasing that same heat. Also the weight must have been quite an issue. If at all possibile I would go for an aluminium radiator.
I also thought of using parts from phase change arrays such as condensers (I may be wrong...I meant the aluminium radiators with copper coils) but the size and weight made me alook elsewhere. The surface area is good but the shape is wrong. I will have my radiator sitting under my table against the wall (held 10 cm away from the wall) thus I rather not have anything thicker than that.
small edit: is Zalman ZM-G100 a good anti corrosive? Honestly I feel all modding products are a waste of money when it comes to large scale water cooling loops (my loop will ahev almost 5 metres of tubing). Anyway I await your opinions...:D
Naval Brass would be a better choice for the impeller.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexontherocks
If your stuck using mixed metals (which I will never recommend), use an sacrificial anode (like zinc) or run a much higher mix of anti-freeze than normal (say no less than 3:10, maybe 4:10), anything less is just a honest request for trouble. The 1:10 most ppl run doesn't provide anywhere near the protection needed (IIRC, phelan1777 had trouble at this ratio). I suspect that ratio to be near optimal for those that want colored coolant, just enough for good color yet not enough to hurt the heat transfer properties too much.
so if I understood correctly you suggest getting hold of a piece of zinc and putting it in the system...
regarding the ratio would you suggest that even with my pump, a car radiator and only one block in the loop I could encounter significant drop in efficiency?
Anyway please be patient because I will be posting pictures very soon of my rig. I just need to understand what fittings to use to adapt tygon 8mm to the intake/outake of the car radiator.
look for the redline water wetter i think it has an anticorrosive agent in it and it doesnt hinder performance
Ethylene glycol merely toxic, not highly toxic. I don't want to encourage irresponsible use around children and pets, but looking around in my household i can find far more dangerous products.
this is kinda funny and off topic but i just read this
"The cure for antifreeze poisoning is alcohol. (It''s like treating diabetes with Charleston Chews.) It inhibits the toxicity of the ethylene glycol.
When Australian paramedics brought the Italian man to the hospital, they hooked him up and started dripping medical-grade alcohol into his veins. The hospital was low on their supply of alcohol and quickly ran out.
Apparently, the Italian man had been at the hospital before he found the antifreeze.
The Australian doctors had to go to the store and buy a case of vodka. They dripped about three drinks an hour into the man's veins. They had to keep the poor guy drunk to keep him alive. That will teach him."
aside from that
im taking G11 out of my loops and going distilled +pt nuke from now on.. unless nukes going to kill me too :(
The copper sulfate, which is the active chemical in it, is really only harmful to fish, snails, and aquatic parasites.
So unless your one of the above you should be safe.
You do not know what in the hell you are talking about. Show me your medical degree.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fairydust
Quote:
Originally Posted by aspire.comptech
+1 . . .the wife agreed it is safe to use
looks like im out if luck.. :( :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by aspire.comptech
thanks
I was wrong, it's not even toxic.Quote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis
Neither criteria for classification as "highly toxic" or "toxic" are met by ethylene glycol as per US OSHA or EU. I am not saying it's harmless, far from it, I just don't like the wrong use of clearly defined labels.
Toxic by definition means: Harmful, destructive or deadly to living things.
I think it is safe to say that Ethylene Glycol is in fact harmful, destructive or deadly to living things and as such could be considered Toxic.
LOL . . .you word mincer. Dude, please try to be responsible at least a bit. I am probably one of the biggest goofballs you will ever come across . . .but I personally have seen many animals die while I am at our clinic. I hear tons of horror stories from my wife that take place most of the time I am not there. We own a 6 doctor practice that is one of the few that takes walk-ins during normal hours so we basically are a day-time emergency clinic.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fairydust
The cases that really make you feel bad are the ones that are so easily prevented if people just took a little extra step or exercised the smallest bit of common sense (like not having a dog free in the back of your pickup truck).
http://www.avma.org/communications/b...d_brochure.asp
Quote:
Antifreeze, Herbicides and Insecticides
Ethylene glycol-containing antifreeze and coolants, even in small quantities, can be fatal to both dogs and cats. While antifreeze products containing propylene glycol are less toxic than those containing ethylene glycol, they can still be dangerous. In addition to antifreeze, other substances routinely stored in the garage including insecticides, plant/lawn fertilizers, weed killers, ice-melting products and gasoline also pose a threat to your pet's health if ingested.