that setup looks beastly!!!!
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that setup looks beastly!!!!
From your signature it looks like you're using the EK NF4 Rev 1.1 on the SB. How about a picture showing the clearance with your video cards. Will it be worth $35 to put a waterblock on the SB? Did you try to install the other mosfet waterblock?Quote:
Originally Posted by Philly_Boy
Looking good Msgclb!Quote:
Originally Posted by msgclb
Viper
If the truth was known, I'm not looking so good! I think you're referring to the picture by Philly_Boy.Quote:
Originally Posted by ViperJohn
I just might use the EK NF4 Rev 1.1 on the SB along with your 780i SPP/NF200 Water Block and Mosfet Heatsinks.
I noticed that Petra's is selling your ViperJohn 780i Mosfet Heatsink Kit. Will you also be selling your 780i SPP/NF200 Water Block through Petra's?
Oh man I didn't even notice that picture was of Philly's setup. Me Bad...sorry about that Philly!Quote:
Originally Posted by msgclb
I tell ya there is really no need to WC the MCP southbridge...unless you already have the WB.
The EverCool handles the MCP great plus it is cheap (althought they seem to dig you on the
shipping 1/2 the time though!).
Yes Petra's is selling the my 780i mosfet heatsinks. There are no plans for them to sell my
water block at this time though. That is mostly due to the fact I am giving everyone the
wholesale price for it and that doesn't leave room for me to sell the water block to Petra's at
a lower price which they can mark it up and make a profit on.
If you want a Viper 780i SPP/NF200 water block I suggest you get your order in for a kit from
batch 5 that will be shipping March 10th and 11th. I am making that a 15 kit batch instead
of the normal 10. I still have a 2 or 3 spots open for a kit from batch 5. After I finish making
all the parts for that batch I will be taking a short break to let the cuts and nicks my fingers
heal up as they are getting mighty dang sore!!!
Viper
Thanks John for the awesome product, got it on last night with no hassle. I see now why you said not to screw the NB block on too tight b/c it does bow the board abit.
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m...5/IMG_0876.jpg
Looking good Donuts.Quote:
Originally Posted by pvtdonuts
You do tighten the water blocks mounting screws firmly. You just do not need to "killer" tighten
them lol.
The mount is a precision spaced, spring less hard mount in the same manner as Intel's retail box
coolers are (or Swiftechs MCW30). The SPP and NF200 chip die surface stands .094" above the
motherboard surface. The spacers supplied with the water block stand the heat sink base .084"
above the motherboard surface when the mounting screws are tightened. That gives a .010" MB
compression flex/bow and a solid mount which is industry standard (except for Intels CPU coolers
which flex/bow the motherboard a hell of a lot more).
I am surprised you can even see the slight MB bow.
Viper
I believe it was because I tightened the screws town alittle too much at first, but after I loosened them and re-tightened until they were just tight enough, the bow was barely noticeable. BTW, I just wanna compliment you on the mosfet sinks, the single row sinks mesh perfectly with all the mosfets thanks to your slight bow and to top it off they look great too. Before my aftermarket 60mm fan on the frankencooler was the loudest thing, now my enzotech SLF-1 is the loudest thing, though turning the fan speed down does help. Thanks again John.
Hi DonutsQuote:
Originally Posted by pvtdonuts
That Crown I put n the single row mosfet heat sink is just an approximate compensation for the bow the MB's take in that area when a CPU cooler is mounted. The clamp pressure the CPU cooler you use applies to the CPU, if you are using a backplate or not, etc, etc all effect how much the motherboard bows in that mosfet area of the motherboard.
Sometimes the crown I put in the base makes for a perfect fit and sometimes not. The installer can alway increase the crown in the heatsink base if needed although that is easier said than done. The thermal compounds I recommend in the instructions will fill any small gaps that do exist if the fit is not dead nuts perfect.
In any case the mating of my single row heat sink with the mosfets underneath it will be better than the stock, flat, thin base unit the motherboard comes with stock. Most of the time there is no contact at all between inner mosfet and the stock thermal pad used with the stock mosfet strip heatsink.
Viper
John,
Block showed up today, thanks a ton! and also a big thanks to Petra's for sending me to John even though it meant losing my business this one time.
John, do you mind me posting up pics of the inside of the block? I know its a flat plate but I still want to see :) and I am sure others do as well.
also are the little foam dots for something?
I'll have my review/pics up this weekend when the work load is a little less and me and my P5k-deluxe (P35) have a good-bye TF2 session :)
Jacob S.
There will be a mobo burning video on youtube if this 780i doesnt get my Q6600 to 3.8 stable. Stay tuned...
the foam dots are for the SB when you use an aftermarket cooler, since there are only 2 holes,t he foam helps stabilize the cooler
The use of the foam stabilizer pads was covered in the MCP Foam Stab Pads.jpg thatQuote:
Originally Posted by libertysyclone
was attached to your instructions...unless the attachment pictures were stripped out of
the email I sent you.
Viper
FYI we'll be carrying these blocks for customers up in the great white north.
Thanks John. The mailman delivered my Viper WB kit this afternoon. The installation went as good as I would expect considering I don't have any friends that were willing to loan me their fingers.
I do have other problems that will delay getting back up and running. I was hooking up my fans making sure they were running but the PSU kept stopping. I finally figured out that one of my (x) radiator fans was the culprit.
That won't keep me from installing the tubing and bleeding the system once I get some feelings back in my fingers!
Yeah it really helps to have three hands. I do the installs by myself as well and haveQuote:
Originally Posted by msgclb
gotten used to doing it that way.
Reservoir fan??? That is a new one on me lol.
Viper
The first thing I noticed was that fan made a couple of turns, stopped and then the PSU stopped. When I disconnected that fan the PSU and my other fans were all spinning. This is the first time that I've had any problems with my fans.Quote:
Originally Posted by ViperJohn
I meant radiator fan. I removed it from the radiator and it failed by itself.
No what I meant was I have never heard of putting a fan on the reservoir.Quote:
Originally Posted by msgclb
Viper
is there a picture anywhere of the internals of this block?
Probably not. Viper doesn't want you to break it open cause he laps the base to a flat shine. I did see a shot looking down through the barb though :)
No but there isn't much to see really except the flow channel detail in the Acetal top andQuote:
Originally Posted by perfection
with that being all black I can't get that to show in a photo worth a damn.
The SPP and NF200 chip combined dissipate about 27w so they are ridiculously easy to cool
with simple water (the mount is a whole nother story though!).
That heat sink base is a wetted plate with 1.9 Sq. In. of wetted surface area. The Swiftech
MCW30 is another example of a wetted plate WB but with a lot less wetted surface area.
The water flows asymmetrically in two directions with more flow directed toward the SPP die
(roughly 70%) and less toward the NF200 die (roughly 30%).
Viper
The reason I ask users to not open the block up is because I fly cut and them lap the heat sinkQuote:
Originally Posted by starlon
base after I assemble the copper base and the Acetal top. This insure all distortion that sets
into the base when the screws are tightened is removed and the base end up flat and true. If
you open the WB up all that will be lost when you reassemble it.
Beside there really isn't all that much to see lol!
Viper
Well I really wanted to peak! hehe I still want to see the insides.
by looking at the screws holding it together, i would have thought that you could unscrew and take the top off like a normal delrin top/copper base waterblock??
You do.Quote:
Originally Posted by perfection
Viper
John, are most waterblocks finished while assembled like you do with your blocks to minimize distortion? I would assume not but just curious?