:rofl: :rofl: That was good!
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Yeah, I was kinda thinking about that yesterday evening... which is why I may end up dropping by a local place and picking up a couple cheap "modern" motherboards (ECS, anybody? :p: ) and a bottle of FluidXP or something before the end of the week.
Though, a dirty, dusty old board would probably be fun to play with as well :D
I get that a lot... I'm just old for my age ;)
Well, I do plan on including a 'staff' page on the main Petra'sTech website, whenever that sees the light of day--I'm hoping to make some headway on that and getting the blog up again this week... but don't hold your breath (it takes me forever to get this stuff done because I'm always trying to do too many things at once). Then again, I could just add to the store's existing 'about us' page...:rolleyes:Quote:
Alex you guys need a picture of everyone so we know the faces of who were doing business with. My brother goes to stanford and i was awefully tempted to visit you guys when i went to visit him.
I ran a few tests using my Megohmmeter and got some interesting results, the spacing between the two leads was always about 1 inch apart and the liquid (except for one) was at room temperature:
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First test was with regular unfiltered (city) tap water:
Tap Water http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...s/TapWater.jpg
2.5K ohms, that’s pretty conductive Imo.
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Next test was regular distilled water with no additives:
Pure Distilled Water http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...illedWater.jpg
∞ Ohms or no conductivity. However, when I pushed the voltage up to 250vdc I got about 2K ohms at 1 inch apart.
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The third test took me by surprise. And this adds one more reason Not To Use dyes. In this test I added just a few drops of G11 coolant to the distilled water (only enough coolant to slightly change the color of the water):
Distilled Water w/ G11 Coolant http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...illedWater.jpg
1.8K ohms, that’s more conductive than tap water :eek:
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So let’s take a closer look at that G11 coolant:
Pure G11 Coolant http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9/laserskys/g11.jpg
792 ohms, not as bad as I was expecting. The mixture of h20 and g11 may be more conductive then the two individual parts :shrug:
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Now just for fun I whipped out some Ln2 ;)
Liquid Nitrogen http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9/laserskys/Ln2.jpg
∞ Ohms even at 1000Vdc! perfect dielectric fluid and so much fun :D
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...ColdProbes.jpg
Now those are some cold probes!
Oh, and Alex, hey its Grant. i got those CC lights you sent me and swapped the transformer and as you can see in the pics it worked perfectly! thanks man.
That's a really nice shade of green... how/where did you get it?
Yeah, I think it's the glass since even the pic with plain distilled water (which is clear normally) look green.
I'm myself tempted to do a test with my trusty AX6BC Pro Gold with a Celeron 300A to 464 MHz full of water to cover everything :p:
For the record, a multimeter (or, in this case, a Megohmmeter) isn't exactly an ideal instrument for measuring the conductivity/resistivity of a fluid (especially with those probes). Something like this or this would produce more meaningful, repeatable results. As I recall, someone around here has/has access to one of those Myron units...
Water, in its pure state, is also a perfect dielectric fluid; however, because water is also such a great solvent, it's very difficult to get "pure" water and even more difficult to keep it that way. I'd imagine that liquid nitrogen isn't such a great solvent... ;) Either way, this is all beside the point... the PR behind most of these nonconductive PC coolants is nothing short of laughable--they aren't Fluorinert, after all... just water with junk added.
What you are about to see is pure evil carnage, if you have a weak stomach or have a soft spot in your heart for capacitors, turn away now.
http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/3...ted2bq5.th.jpg
What's that Mr Cap, you and Mrs PCIce had a fight? That's terrible. :shakes: You can see the red stain on the 4 pin CPU connector from the PCIce.
http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/1...ted1gi4.th.jpg
This is another reason why I dislike and will never use cheap plastic barbs again. The barb actually stripped out of the block to cause the leak.
LOL, I thought it said PCIe not PCIce when I first read it...:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
OHH PC-Ice. i thought the same thing Nate did. lol
Haha same here!
I decided to try my own conductive fluid test, However, It did not go as planned.
My *Plan* was to use a 60mm generic delta screamer fan to blend up some Pace picante salsa. However, The salsa was too think to allow the fan to move.
Nevertheless, after some rinsing, The fan still works!
Just as I thought, reading is becoming a lost art. :p: :yepp:
Also confirms a study on reading habits I'd heard about where most ppl tested didn't read the entire word before they came to a conclusion about what word they'd just read. I really wish I could remember who did that study. :shakes:
from now on i only will use tropicana pink lemonade as my refrigerant LOL
Yeah I finally determined that it was FrozenCPU..but indeed the video has been changed.
I have to wonder if that is because of some negative feedback on the actual conductivity of PC Ice. I have been meaning to replicate that experiment as I have a number of obsolete machines.
So PC Ice did in your Motherboard? Hmmmmm.
wow waterlogged... your board must of been hella dirty then...
Well i actually blew a barb as well on my NB, and the whole coolant came flushing on my main board.
Plastic barb being screwed in the wrong way was the problem. The computer was probably live for about 2 min, b4 it was shut down, and then was dipped litterally in rubbing alcohol, and allowed to fully dry.
And it still works.... :\
But you showing your pictures is starting to make me rethink things again... Meaning theres no way it could of been user error.....
Here's the scary part, it was a brand new build. I ran Prime 95 overnight and it was running fine for 2 hrs before I went to bed. In the morning, when I went downstairs to the basement to see how it was doing, I ran into a odd yet familiar smell half way down the stairs. Noticed the red CCFL's weren't lit and thought it shut itself down due to over heating, pushed the power button, CCFL's flickered for a sec and went back out, did it 3 more times before it sank in that something was wrong, turned the case and saw that. It also partially charred the alum of the X-QPack case it was in.
If you're buying it mainly for the color, save your money. The nice green glow will fade shortly. There are a few threads in here about that very same thing.Quote:
hmm did not know that about the fans.but anyway the colors are really what im after,i want a green that really has a nice glow and theres look good.as far as the non conductive part,guess we will never know?
Read this thread, http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=119699. Use what is recommended and maybe you can add some UV dye. http://www.petrastechshop.com/wacoac.html
When I first got into liquid cooling last year, I was worried about frying my PC, so I thought an aftermarket non-conductive liquid was the way to go(FluidXP, UV Blue). Everyone here and at another OC forum told me not to do it. But did I listen? Nooooo. Should I have? Damn straight! The deep blue turned pale blue in a couple of months, and after what I've learned, probably lost it's non-conductivity characteristics.
Take it from someone who's been there, done that. Follow the guide and forget about the gimmick fluids out there.
this thread is epic!