I applaud you for actually making a functional heatpipe assembly. Top notch stuff and I hope this could possibly become a future trend if cost isn't too expensive.
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I applaud you for actually making a functional heatpipe assembly. Top notch stuff and I hope this could possibly become a future trend if cost isn't too expensive.
why not a separate NB from SB, no heatpipes at all.
do a good NB mini pot, i wouldnt care much about air if this is for extreme people dont do mid things.
I'd definetly put dry ice on it, as over 1.8XX vNB board wouldnt boot.
For the supercooling, no the heatpipe wont work, the material inside is WATER, assembled at a lower pressure than atmospheric, so it boils at a much lower temperature... but an LN like temps it will just freeze at the NB end. And if enough cold works down the pipe, it will be a condensation nightmare, you'd have to insulate the whole assembly.
Shimano...
For WC though, use copper and its a really NICE solution.... make one for the Foxconn NForce 590 board.... and if possible UPDATE the bios to include all the settings for the A64 that the ASUS Crosshair board includes.... the Foxconn board would be better than the already excellent product it is now!!!!
Also, let the boyz in the lab know, the Rictek 9715 used for the Vdimm is crapping out and drooping badly at higher Vdimm levels with "D9" ddr2.... just as it did on the DFI NF4-SLR DR boards with BH5 ram.
great great idea :up: :up: :up: :up:
Is there a CPU version???
CPU? Why do you need one with Gorillakos pots, Kingpin's F1, etc... ;)
ok, I will anodise it copper... is it ok guys?? :ROTF:
Kiddin, I've decided, it won't go out till it's copper, probably full copper.
if copper
this will add $40-50 to the price will it not
Does the mosfet sink actually contact all of the mosfets very well?
Most of the time i've found the best way to do it is epoxy the mosfet sink to the mosfets. Best contact you'll get without putting on idividual sinks anyways.
youre absolutely right, not just mosfets, especially for heatpiped setup even sometimes NB or SB is not fixed on hard!
So for this, I have a small back plate behind mosfets and clamped down hard on mosfets no bowing on mosfet part after i tried clamping down my cpu pot super tight. and paddish pads to fit the countours of mosfets individually so the minute difference in height will be ok
An included mosfet backplate? This thing just keeps getting better. :up:
Good to have the backplate.. dont want it to be a waffle like asus boards lol ;)
awesome!!! :toast:
No cursewords and insults! thats against the forum rules! ^^
thats the right decision, most h20 setups are copper and copper plus alu blocks in one loop = corrosion. water additives can slow it down but never stop it, so copper is def the way to go
no, the heatpipe walls are very thin, around 0.1-0.2mm usually, so they arent good at moving heat just by themselves without the phase change effect of the carrier inside.
:rofl: :ROTF: :lol:
It happened again! :D
When SHIMANO, me, fr3ak and vahid from techpowerup were hanging out in leiptzig after GC vahid accidently called shamino shimano as well and all of us burst out in laughter :D
he he, the real saaya-style post above ^ :D
I like this concept, just want to see how it works, quickly :up: (and copper FTW :rolleyes: )
that looks great, looking forward to what the finish product will look like
Yes Shamino is worth every $ he gets paid ;)
GOOD for FOXCONN :D
Foxconn might become the next OCers choice if they play their cards right.
It only takes one good product to get us to follow
Nice idea.
Much better.
I agree. The SB can get by with a low-profile heatsink.
Sometimes with these heatpipes manufacturers connect the components
with, the SB is heated instead of being cooled.
Hahaha :D
One more idea:
making the NB 3-piece may make it even more flexible and efficient for air-
cooling. Here's what I'm thinking:
Base+heatpipe+fins - O-ring - walls - O-ring - Top+barbs.
So for air-cooling, it's just the first part - base+hp+fins. No walls obstructing
air-flow. For DI/LN2, screw the walls back. You can also make a special higher
wall with longer screws for DI. For water, just screw the top on the walls.
And another:
a stepped base under the NB/pot for easier insulation?
you mean like this? :)
http://img162.imageshack.us/img162/6985/nnbaa3.jpg
dice should be ok, ln2 I dunno if the o ring will hold long...