nice block. would it be nicer if you use stainless steel screw for the block.
Printable View
nice block. would it be nicer if you use stainless steel screw for the block.
Very nice block.
What does the holddown look like?
Can't wait to see how it performs.
Keep up the great work. :up:
Thanks guys,
Getting ready to do some testing in the next couple of days. The hold down plate is a simple sheet of 1/4" acrylic that sort of an X shape, but it's just a testing placeholder. I need to do something a little more custom and original for the hold down, just not sure what it is yet. I also have a friend with a CNC router he uses for his sign business, he's a graphics designer and might have some cool ideas.
I am doing one thing different with my hold down, it only has one point of pressure around the center barb and hinges on a washer so that should hopefully help ensure a good mount every time.
Anyhow since I'll probably continue to try several things, I just sealed the block up with a lexan specific clear silicone for now. I need to get some more small end mills before I go for the o-ring slot, but either way I'd probably just glue the top/mid blocks together. With the barbs out you can clean it all really well anyhow. I would just put an o-ring between the middle and base blocks so you can access the pins for cleaning.
I'm still not sure exacatly what you guys mean on ideas for a better pin layout. Straight up and down would also have a direct path. I think the only way you wouldn't have a direct path would be a diamond pin at a tight enough angle to so the diamonds are horizontal. But blowing through the block give me a good indication that the nozzle/pins are already fairly restrictive.
Just have to give it a try and see, lots of lexan scrap sitting in the garage for the next tweak..:D
I think what everyone else is talking about is the 90° nature of your pins. Ie. from this pic, it looks like each corner of each pin is 90°.
http://www.overclock.net/gallery/dat...LineBlock8.jpg
Blocks like the Apogee GT/X, have angles where (pulling numbers out of my rear) two sides are 135° and the other two are 45°
http://swiftnets.com/assets/images/p...ogee-gt-bp.jpg
http://swiftnets.com/assets/images/p...stallation.gif
I M$ painted up a couple pics to show the difference. Yes, they're horribly cr@ppy pics.
Whether or not it makes a difference we'll have to wait until the test results come in. Jaydee (I think) made his block with your method and it performed very well.
Ah, ok, so just a diamond pin style that's more striaight up and down diamonds. Thanks, if this base doesn't work out, I'll have to give that a try.:up:Quote:
Originally Posted by THE JEW (RaVeN)
why stop there, mill yourself a putterQuote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
Quote:
Originally Posted by Linus@ncix
:eek: :eek:
Oh boy..not at my part time and manual milling speeds...lol:D
BTW, leak testing in progress, so far so good, but I can tell just by bleeding that it's fairly restrictive with the current nozzles. I should pressure drop test it, but I wanted it installed and run first...:)
pics please :)
Ok.....:DQuote:
Originally Posted by disruptfam
Here are some updated pics:
First is a picture of my hold down plate angle point. One of the thing I think happens alot in poor mounts is inconsistent pull on the four bolts. I think the stepdown base concept is great, but I think it also has more variability in mounts because of the smaller footprint and ease in putting more force on one side of the block. Mounting the hold down plate to put all it's force in the very center of the block (in this case all force is on the center barb) and providing a means to allow flex like this washer should really help with this. Anyhow, this is just a crude version, but it works really well. I could easily pull one side down over a 1/4" more than the other and no torsion is applied to the block. Alot of heatsink hold downs have gone to a single point force setup, waterblocks should too..:D
http://www.overclock.net/gallery/dat...ineBlock11.jpg
Next up, had to see the nozzle/accelerator jets in action...:D
http://www.overclock.net/gallery/dat...LineBlock9.jpg
And here is the block installed, quick and dirty hold down plate until I figure out something cooler, but it works.
http://www.overclock.net/gallery/dat...ineBlock12.jpg
In operation:
http://www.overclock.net/gallery/dat...ineBlock13.jpg
Hard to tell this early, but it's giving my bowed and nozzled Fuzion a run for it's money. Within a couple of degrees, hard to tell if I'll gain that in settlemeant/curing or possibly a remount. But I do know I gained about 4-5C from bowing and adding a nozzle to my fuzion so the block is already performing better than my fuzion when stock. Not too bad for my first home brew attempt..:D
I'll run the numbers in a couple of days, the CLP should be cured pretty well and bubbles out of the lines by then.
WOW, Just Wow, very imperssive all the way thru. Must resisit urge to go by crazy tools. It's a good think I only understand a little about how you made that. Best of luck with it, interested to see more.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
Subscribed!
wow you really put that thing to use quickly. Congrats on the MartinBlock V0.1 Beta ;) :up:
That is some great work man! :up:
Martinm210, nice job on the first attempt. :)
The diamonds on the Swifty blocks are cut with one pass going from flat to flat (left to right) and the opposing pass going corner to corner (upper right to lower left).
http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/2400/regularzq6.jpg
For final assembly, use IPS Weld-On #3. Best stuff out there for gluing polycarb & acrylic. ;)
Really awesome job there! Argh it's poisoning me to get a larger mill myself...
How's the latest results on this?
OMG Martin you're a genius... i WANT that block + gpu version too
its really wonderfull.
btw, is that carilic safe? i mean, would it not crack if mounted really hard?
Wow martin! very good news.
I cant wait for some conclusive temps, And especially pressure drop.
But seriously, very nice work, I think this may be the beginning of some VERY good things.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad_Man
Thanks!
I don't like acrylic either, the block itself is made out of lexan, talked it over with alot of folks, no one has ever seen lexan crack and I've experiemented with it trying to break it without luck:up:
Here is a fun video on the difference between acrylic and lexan:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hsls5ZPCUnE
Thanks! I have an MCW60 that's very similar. I just thought swiftech has a patent on their specific diamond layout, so I purposely made mine different, my flow patters are a bit different as well. I'm might try a diamond layout, but I think I would make the diamonds symmetrically vertical, and perhaps at an even sharper angle. I don't think I'll ever want to sell a product anyhow, I'm more interested in just fabricating custom stuff. Plan to make lots of different "Engineering" samples...;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
The rotate square pins are doing pretty well though.:D
What about doing a diamond pattern when the longer sides is perpendicular to the sides instead of 1 straight line and 1 line in 45. If my math is right, you should tilt 22.5 degrees each direction to make the pattern.
This might also help a bit with flow since it will be directing toward the 2 outlets.
Yeah, that's what I was talking about. I apologize for my inability to verbally describe it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
It seems to me that putting the inlet in the center, with outlets on top left and bottom right, would tend to restrict the shortest path, (diagonal line connecting all ports) and offer less resistance to flow perpendicular to the shortest path, which in my completely un-experienced opinion would tend to force a more even flow throughout the entire block. Of course, even if this is true, it might not be a good thing in terms of temps.Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
I'm looking forward to seeing some more comparison data, but from the sounds of it you're doing well, and in any case it makes for a very interesting thread.
[OT]Has anyone tried to use your flow estimator to predict temperature performance with C/W curves for blocks/rads?[/OT]
when will they be on sale ? lol how about a acetal top version???
Nice results! Defiantly not bad at all for a first attempt! :shocked:
Interested to hear about further developments! :toast:
very nice work...