Xtreme Xterior Cooler

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by CyberDruid

Not to argue but the field given off by most yachts even at anchor is strong enough to corrode the zincs on boats up to 150 yards away. This is a fact. The salt in the water makes it highly conductive--and the EM fields thrown off by charging equipment and the general wiring of the boat (as everything is bonded) is very powerful. That is why keeping the sacrificial zincs up to snuff is so critical--especially in harbor or when docked for long periods.

An improperly bonded or wired vessel can rapidly corrode the zincs on surrounding boats and lead to damage unless the situation is noted and remedied.

In a PC loop it is not exactly the same deal..but indeed the water acts as the electrolyte in that it makes the transfer of ions possible due to it's conductivity...this effect is independent of pump action or any other EM effect from the PC. It's like a battery.

Any easy proof. Dip a chunk of aluminum and a chunk of copper in some water and make sure they do not touch and take a voltage reading. To really make the point thow in a pich of table salt. :)

---

Google, "galvanic corrosion" and you'll get a plethora of artlicles telling you the same thing: There has to be an electrical connection between the two metals in question. You'll have that in your anchored yachts if they are both using all-chain rodes - they are both close to ground potential. It's certainly true in separated boats both plugged into shore power. Plus, the huge surface area of an aluminum-hulled boat is going to generate a large concentrated current on a tiny zinc 150 yards away - IF they are at the same electrical potential or anywhere close to it.

You are correct when you say that there is a voltage potential between un-bonded pieces of aluminum and copper in a glass of water but that doesn't result in any corrosion. You need a current flow between them for that. There is NO current flow between the two because it is an open circuit. You have to connect the two to get current flow. It doesn't have to be a perfect connection but the more resistance (ohms), the less the flow. Two pieces of metal which are in total isolation from each other CANNOT interact galvanically.

Is it possible to electrically isolate a copper block from an aluminum radiator (resistance beyond the range of a good digital multimeter)? As I said earlier, I haven't built a water-cooled rig yet but I don't see any reason why you cant.

To steer more directly to what is going on in a PC cooling loop:

It is not glavanic corrosion but the subtle process of electrolysis that pits the aluminum and sludges the brass and copper. The electrical impulse is generated by the disimilar metals difference in ionic potential just like a battery--because of the neutral ph of the water the current is minute...but over time it will pull pieces of aluminum toward the brass.

To veer back to the similar issue at play with yachts:

Salt water forms the electrical connection between the disimilar metals and the effect is much more pronounced. If you put a piece of copper and a piece of zinc in a glass of salt water where they do not touch the zinc will eventually dissolve and copper will form a residue. If you add voltage the effect is rapid.

Quote:

---

Salt water forms the electrical connection between the disimilar metals and the effect is much more pronounced. If you put a piece of copper and a piece of zinc in a glass of salt water where they do not touch the zinc will eventually dissolve and copper will form a residue.

---

Do you have a link to a study which confirms this? I'd be interested as I will be using an aluminum radiator with copper blocks in the system I will be building.

I will see what I can dig up for you. My knowledge of the yachting end of this is first hand. I have spent about 18 years beating the docks and have read many articles on the subject.

I simply applied that to what I see first hand happening to stuff in my loop.

The very first LCS I concocted used a Rev. 1 Storm and an aluminum universal transmission cooler from NAPA. I went heavy on the Zerex and still years later the block and cooler are in perfect condition. The Tygon is still supple

I buy a lot of used stuff and I have found that alumunum watercooling parts are absolute junk. I have thrown away quite a few GFX card waterblocks that were part of bundles of LC gear I was getting because they were riddled with corrosion and no longer trustworthy due to the porosity of the metal.

A recent example of something you might not expect but that does happen.

Despite using Primochill PC Ice non conductive coolant I still found a greenish accumulation on a Danger Den aluminum filport I was using...the effect might have been attributable to condensation but it was starting to effect the nickle-plated barb/aluminum body connection. Having a number of rigs with the same type Filport I started making sure they wer topped off...this elimnated the problem. But is still stood out to me that reactive metals in a loop are not a good thing.

I'll see what I can find for you on the subject.

I no longer will purchase anything aluminum to use in a PC, despite having my first LC rig operating troublefree all this time. Gotta love that AquaXtreme 50Z DC-12...what a great pump.

This pretty much some up what I just said. But now feel very ignorant because it's Improper to call the process elctrolysis. What can I say...that's what they call it on the docks:D

http://www.ocean.udel.edu/seagrant/p...corrosion.html

How is this performing now? :D

:D

Loving this cold night. Currently -1.1C intake temp yielding 8 8 7 7 C in Core temp at idle running 3600. Under 100 sustained load I am seeing 20 19 17 18 C ...gotta love that with an overvolted Q6600.

Spent some time today reseating the block and got a drastic improvement that leveled off my core temp differences from 14C different to 1-2C different.

The stiff poly braid tubing had been fighting me on the last seat and I could see the patch of Shin Etsu was off center.

So as far as the questions about condensation I am seeing nothing, it's very dry though. 32% Humidity outside and even less inside. The bay res is nice and cool...

So far this has been the most cost effective Extreme cooling I have come up with.

how bout wet and damp outside? isnt rain gonna be troublesome? since ur fan circuit is exposed? not to mention acid rains ...

Nope. As you can see it is uder a plexi shield. The connections are all taped with high quality thin 3M electrical tape to seal out any moisture. The pumps are waterproof and the fan is disposable IMO...a $9 Panaflo. I have a feeling once it gets steady cold like this the fan is unnecessary anyway.

Brass holds up well to the environment...so even if the paint is not enough protection the PA 160 should be fine.

This set up is far less abusive to hardware than what I did last year :D Put the Farm out on the porch all Winter...there were times when I had drifts up against the cases...but they continued to Fold!

This will only work well during the winter obviously :D

I run about 20C above intake temp--just wish my loop were more efficient.Next version will be MCP655 and FuZion...

http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/880/snow024wf6.jpg
http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/8318/snow025vl7.jpg
http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/6336/snow033dy1.jpg
http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/5319/snow034rh3.jpg
http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/212/snow035ol7.jpg
:D

BAH! If that's all the snow you got, that's pathetic. :p:

I've already had 3x's that where I live and winter hasn't even settled in yet. :rolleyes: :ROTF:

Looking good though. :up: Looks like it's doing what it's supposed to, you are going to brush that off if it gets to be too much though, right?

temps now with that snowfall????

wish i could do that coldest here where i live is like 12°c