1.8v? hmmm try another P4 with newer stepping, might reach 4.5ghz+ with a better chip.
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1.8v? hmmm try another P4 with newer stepping, might reach 4.5ghz+ with a better chip.
Nice work! :slobber:
Do you think that a watercooled pelt in place of the Vapo could assist an R404 system with somewhat similar results?
When you change P25 to -99 you don't change the beeb.Quote:
Originally posted by CodeRed
that doesnt stop the alarms on mine.
P25 is set to -99 for me
the only thing that worked was the resistor mod, just a bit hard to calibrate.
Puch the left top button...
when you do the resistor mod, you don't have the right temp.
:rolleyes:
Thats fake, you can change the calibration on the prommy. Then its no big deal to get -57 or -67 or -77 you name it.Quote:
Originally posted by petervandamned
tom
hit some buttons to get the beep away ;)
i have a m1 doing -57 on 507
P25=-50 (low temps alarm) mine = -60
http://www.tweakers.net/ext/f/9568/full.jpg
this display is more adjustable then the m2
i have a slot version vapo en a classic also
maybe i can use my m2 to cool te m1 :)
The beeb sounds when the temp drop below -54 on the sensor.
The display can be higher or lower..
The kompressor can't handle pure R507a
R404a is a mixture of: R143a/R125a/R134a : 52%/44%/4%
R507a is a mixture of: R143a/R125a : 50%/50%
boiling point: R143a = -47.5
R125a = -48.4
R134a= -26.5
When you haven't vacuum your Prommy, there is some R134a
left, and the R507a can work (the mixture is practicaly R404!!)
pure R507a and the compressor won't start.;)
BTW I was told (I study electronics) that silicon doesent work under -100°C, that happens because number of free carriers (electrons) in silicon starts to fall exponently at this temperature. Silicon is useable between -100°C and 300°C, so cooling chips under -100°C won't get you anywhere.
And I tought that water cooling is xtreme...
I thought CPU's cooled to absolute zero became super conductors?
http://www.3dnow.net/views/overclocking2.htm
Well LN2 chips are still a fair way off that ;)
-273c isn't it?
The boys in Japan have proven that anything
beyond -120C is futile.
And they play with LN2.
Pops.
At absolute zero everything becomes super conductive, and here is the main problem. There is "no" transistors in CPU at -273°C. Everything that electricity "sees" at this temperature is one pice of supercondictive material.Quote:
Originally posted by Niven
I thought CPU's cooled to absolute zero became super conductors?
http://www.3dnow.net/views/overclocking2.htm
thats really a nice oc man , cool how you fixed it to cool your prommy a little more !!
my compliments!!
Hmm.. guess that means i'll have to shoot for ~ -100c...
oops, i've said too much...
No, thats not sufficient with a pelt. Icewater might do, but it has to be cold.:rolleyes:Quote:
Originally posted by [SLC]Tachyon
Nice work! :slobber:
Do you think that a watercooled pelt in place of the Vapo could assist an R404 system with somewhat similar results?
Very true, my first 3.2es could only get to 2.8 or so, second one was the charm :)Quote:
Originally posted by Tom Holck
I think the max oc depends of voltage AND cooling. My new cascade R404 Prommy can go 4050 Mhz on default 1.55 Volt
I think 3.75 on air is nice, but 3.8 with waterchiller is bad.
Some ES chips oc realy bad. That might be your problem. Have You tried another chip (fx 2.4/800) to compair the system?
Looking forward to see what You can do on Vapo-cooling.
:toast:
this is no fake !!!!!Quote:
Originally posted by Tom Holck
Thats fake, you can change the calibration on the prommy. Then its no big deal to get -57 or -67 or -77 you name it.
The beeb sounds when the temp drop below -54 on the sensor.
The display can be higher or lower..
The kompressor can't handle pure R507a
R404a is a mixture of: R143a/R125a/R134a : 52%/44%/4%
R507a is a mixture of: R143a/R125a : 50%/50%
boiling point: R143a = -47.5
R125a = -48.4
R134a= -26.5
When you haven't vacuum your Prommy, there is some R134a
left, and the R507a can work (the mixture is practicaly R404!!)
pure R507a and the compressor won't start.;)
actualy i have 2 time 507a proms one!!!!!
ask Kloster from chip-con about my rigs ;)
i am having a upgrade day in the netherlands later this month
to upgrade proms and vapo to or 404 or 507
i have a specialist doing this :)
my beeps or error0 will appear by -60
sure i know the trick with the sensor but i think you dont know what other posible settings with the display you can do :)
ask also mr JCViggen he knows what i am using been here several time in my house
for the mach 1 i have all the settings in dutch
man r507 is pushing it imo, what kind of temps are you getting on the compressor and he condenser? r507 is a fairly high pressure refrigerant compared to r134a.
baking a egg on the unit now ;)Quote:
Originally posted by ellsworth
man r507 is pushing it imo, what kind of temps are you getting on the compressor and he condenser? r507 is a fairly high pressure refrigerant compared to r134a.
hot very hot the outlet you can use for the kitchen oven
is just my test rig
in the latest heatwave my temps were at the highest at -45 doing a pifast at max oc and max volts
but a house fan will work out fine for extra cooling the unit
as seen on the starter pics i will surely test this one day
when i having my holliday next month
tested my first rig on 507
http://www.tweakers.net/ext/f/9916/thumb.jpg
Tom,Quote:
Originally posted by Tom Holck
When you change P25 to -99 you don't change the beeb.
Puch the left top button...
when you do the resistor mod, you don't have the right temp.
:rolleyes:
Here's how to get the resistor mod working and approximately accurate temp readouts on the display (and no beeps)
Power up and enter "administrator" mode on the carel controller. This is done by holding down the SEL and PRG key simultaneously for 5 sec. Then enter the value 77 into the display (this is the password ;)) Now set C21 to -99 and C23 to -99. These are the minimum values for setpoint 1 and setpoint 2. You can now program your condensor fan and heater element to operate below -50 deg C. Also set P25 to -99. This is the low temp alarm point. Hit PRG to exit.
Shut down and connect two wires to terminals 7 & 8 of the carel controller. These are the thermister pins. Later we will connect a resisitor in parallel with the thermistor to adjust its reading.
Power up and find a combination of Vcore and speed that give a reading of say -50 deg C. Make sure the temp doesnt vary.
Connect a 10MOhm pot across the two wires. Set the pot to 10MOhms.
Slowly lower the pot value (pause for 10 sec between adjustments to let the display catch up). The temp readout should increase slowly. When it hits -45 stop.
Now adjust P14 by -5 deg C and the readout should show -50 deg C again.
This method lets me go down to -58 deg C without the beeps and with an approximately accurate redout.
The only problem is that the readout is only calibrated at one temp. Below -50 deg C is will read too high and above -50 deg C it will read too low. The error is negligible (say +/- 1 deg C)between -60 deg C and -40 deg C (my working range).
Also it is wise to lower P26 to -35 deg C since at this temp you will read 5 deg C too low and you dont want to cook anything :)
Hope thats clear enough.
Yes, thats all right, but it only works on Mark II.Quote:
Originally posted by CodeRed
Tom,
Here's how to get the resistor mod working and approximately accurate temp readouts on the display (and no beeps)
Power up and enter "administrator" mode on the carel controller. This is done by holding down the SEL and PRG key simultaneously for 5 sec. Then enter the value 77 into the display (this is the password ;)) Now set C21 to -99 and C23 to -99. These are the minimum values for setpoint 1 and setpoint 2. You can now program your condensor fan and heater element to operate below -50 deg C. Also set P25 to -99. This is the low temp alarm point. Hit PRG to exit.
Shut down and connect two wires to terminals 7 & 8 of the carel controller. These are the thermister pins. Later we will connect a resisitor in parallel with the thermistor to adjust its reading.
Power up and find a combination of Vcore and speed that give a reading of say -50 deg C. Make sure the temp doesnt vary.
Connect a 10MOhm pot across the two wires. Set the pot to 10MOhms.
Slowly lower the pot value (pause for 10 sec between adjustments to let the display catch up). The temp readout should increase slowly. When it hits -45 stop.
Now adjust P14 by -5 deg C and the readout should show -50 deg C again.
This method lets me go down to -58 deg C without the beeps and with an approximately accurate redout.
The only problem is that the readout is only calibrated at one temp. Below -50 deg C is will read too high and above -50 deg C it will read too low. The error is negligible (say +/- 1 deg C)between -60 deg C and -40 deg C (my working range).
Also it is wise to lower P26 to -35 deg C since at this temp you will read 5 deg C too low and you dont want to cook anything :)
Hope thats clear enough.
The pressure and the results on Mark I using R404a is better
than on the Mark II !!
;)
Mark II??? Do you mean Mach IIQuote:
Originally posted by Tom Holck
Yes, thats all right, but it only works on Mark II.
The pressure and the results on Mark I using R404a is better
than on the Mark II !!
;)
I did this on my Mach I prommmy with R404a.
The Mach II prommy has a completely different controller and temp sensor, I have no idea how to recalibrate that.
Codered>
That is very useful information. Thanks for sharing...
Du er for syg tom!!
Yeiks, sorry ... tom you sick bastard...
how do you afford this kind of stuff in DK ?, jesus a good CWC cost easily around 500-700$ (4000DKK)....
well nice though, but really space consuming eih... :O)
B/
Tom, I have modded a number of prometeia mach I with 507 (fuggers and Ops among others)) and neither one has trouble starting... First no cap mod is nessassary, new filter/drier,service ports in high side and low side,Triple evac with final to 250 microns, I charge in no load to 4" vacume running stable for 30 min. Then I connect a p4 load and check pressure and check that running pressure is 2"to 4" vacume if higher I remove a very small amount at a time til I get optimum temps under load... With a P4 fully loaded benchmarking I get -49, unloaded the display errors out... There is a wait time of three minuets before restart, this should no matter what the charge.
Quote:
Originally posted by Tom Holck
Thats fake, you can change the calibration on the prommy. Then its no big deal to get -57 or -67 or -77 you name it.
The beeb sounds when the temp drop below -54 on the sensor.
The display can be higher or lower..
The kompressor can't handle pure R507a
R404a is a mixture of: R143a/R125a/R134a : 52%/44%/4%
R507a is a mixture of: R143a/R125a : 50%/50%
boiling point: R143a = -47.5
R125a = -48.4
R134a= -26.5
When you haven't vacuum your Prommy, there is some R134a
left, and the R507a can work (the mixture is practicaly R404!!)
pure R507a and the compressor won't start.;)
Those japs are muy loco, i meanQuote:
Originally posted by Popcicle
The boys in Japan have proven that anything
beyond -120C is futile.
And they play with LN2.
Pops.
very crazy.
I think its time you guys tried out some liquid helium and blew those japs away. Boils at -269 degrees celsius :)
-269c would be TOO cold though, have you read the thread?