Project Whop : Autocascade

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Originally Posted by SoddemFX

A 1Kg disposeable can of refrigeration r600a (isobutane) is about £15 over here, very cheap.

I don't understand why some people have so much trouble finding refrigerant in the US :confused:

If you look through Yellow pages (or whatever it's called for you) there must be dozens of wholesalers within a 50 mile radius of where you live. It's not even like in the US you have to go through costly certification or be crafty about buying refrigerant - after all didn't some 12 year old member here get your 608(?) cerfication online within minites..?

Tom

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The problem with wholesalers is that they don't like to sell to the general public. Some of them ask for a contractors licence, which is not the epa licence. The reason we cant get r290 and r600 is that it is illeagal to use them as refrigerents. Yes we can buy r134a at the local automotive store. That is one of the few. There are some more that dont require a licence but I forget which ones.

And as far as butane the Ronson brand fuel will work just fine. My can tap is a side puncturing type that has an insert for different size cans.:up:
Attachment 60590

lighter fluid is usually iso-butane ,my Weller butane is like the can on the right,it has 2.1 OZ.

Yeah my problem is getting it out of those small cans, I can get those easily. But I want to get it out and get it out without introducing air and moisture.

For now not going to use pour foam either, maybe later as I want easy access to capillary points. Going to just use some 1.125" ID armaflex tube over HX's then add armaflex and such keeping it neat.

This is my set. The can tap has reducers for smaller cans. Do you see?Attachment 60608
:up:

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Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337

Yeah my problem is getting it out of those small cans, I can get those easily. But I want to get it out and get it out without introducing air and moisture.

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Why not attatch an access valve with copper extension to a copper spun filter/drier? Then you could push the access valve into the small plastic valve on top of the can and just put a duster round it so you don't get it all over your hands. This way the gas/liquid iso-butane/butane should get filtered before entering your lines.

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Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337

For now not going to use pour foam either, maybe later as I want easy access to capillary points. Going to just use some 1.125" ID armaflex tube over HX's then add armaflex and such keeping it neat.

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That's the method I used, apart from I started with 1.3/8" ID x 13mm armaflex... then got carried away lmao :D.

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For now not going to use pour foam either, maybe later as I want easy access to capillary points. Going to just use some 1.125" ID armaflex tube over HX's then add armaflex and such keeping it neat.

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For a temporary insulation I would suggest fiberglass with a plastic bag around it to keep out the moisture. This will actually give you a better R value then the armaflex (unless we are talking really thick), and come closer to what you'll see when it is later foamed. Of course to be effective, the fiberglass needs to be tucked into all the voids, and leave a minimum of 2" thickness around the stack. Contrary to what some had said in the past, this really works well when prototyping, and allows for much easier access to make changes. However I can't stress it enough that this isn't being proposed as a permanent way to insulate.

Ah I didnt mean temporary like that. I mean that with armaflex tube, everything can just be cut away and redone or the likes and is easy to work with, safe, and will work for actual usage.

Doing a dry run of plumbing to keep it neat, still have to make the condensers shroud though. (trying to find a better way then MDF that I can do cheaply). Going to possibly braze up most of the unit 2maro.

Noob my largest piercing tool won't fit around the 2.1 oz can of butane. one of those plastic ones will I think,if the insert is not correct diameter,make a wood insert. I don't have one to try.

Updates ! ! !
Piped and plumbing is getting done. You can see the idle/load valve with bypass linked to the expansion tank.
Here's some pics, its all loose and not brazed so it was a bit hard to get it all to stand still!
http://www.thewiltedrose.net/adam/Ph...d/DSC02306.JPG
http://www.thewiltedrose.net/adam/Ph...d/DSC02305.JPG

Are your plans to enclose it or leave it open?

No plans for that right now on either way. Going to mount it on MDF for the moment though.

Moar pics and make it cold already!!!!

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Originally Posted by Cpt.Planet

Moar pics and make it cold already!!!!

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Now, now; no need to get hasty. Allow me.

:cord:


Seriously though, great job; damn excellent job on the aesthetics.

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Originally Posted by SoddemFX

after all didn't some 12 year old member here get your 608(?) cerfication online within minites..?

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that was me! i got 49 of 50!
if anyone dont belive me ill post my cirt number, if wdrzal says it is okay [someone might steal it or something?]

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Originally Posted by wdrzal

lighter fluid is usually iso-butane ,my Weller butane is like the can on the right,it has 2.1 OZ.

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the lighter fluid that you pour in is usually naptha so dont use that, but the butane refills may be either butane or isobutane

NOL great job on the auto![i'm looking for r23 too, airgas has 2x12" cylinders of it [LB is their name for it], i think thats like a pound or something] not the least bit ghetto in my mind! i hope it works well

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Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337

No plans for that right now on either way. Going to mount it on MDF for the moment though.

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MDF cracks too easy :stick:! It's easy to work with I know, but unless it's really thick I find it breaks and crumbles really easy. Oh well personal preferance...

MDF cracks too easy sure, btu I have nothing else I can get to mount to ;)

What size foot print ?

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Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337

MDF cracks too easy sure, btu I have nothing else I can get to mount to ;)

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YOu don't like plywood do you :p: . (IIRC).

I hate plywood, though I might pickup some with a nice veneer (sp). I beleive the foot print is still currently sub 18" square. I'll measure later. Once the main HX's and the accumulator on compressor are insulated (though compressor not brazed in), I will squeeze it all in tigheter.

R123 will be much better for your project, its easily available in the US, as far as I know.

I think you all are thinking of particle board that cracks and crumbles. MDF, not so much, i have only had that when i tighten a screw down way to tight. But other than that MDF is ok. Hey noob why don't you use some OSB?????? LOL

Not without 100 gallon drums at least to myself, plus I have r11 already.

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Originally Posted by best [486]

[i'm looking for r23 too, airgas has 2x12" cylinders of it [LB is their name for it], i think thats like a pound or something] not the least bit ghetto in my mind! i hope it works well

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No offense best[486], but stop trying to get R23. It has a global warming potential (GWP) of around 12,000 :eek:

The European Union is trying to ban R134a and other "high" GWP substances. R134a has a GWP of around 1300.

These thing must be banned because accidents happen, and no matter how careful anyone is they might make a mistake and let the entire charge escape.

I'm pretty confused about R123 and R11. These are high temperature refrigerants, very low pressures at normal applications. Can't think of what you might be doing with these.