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You can use self tapping screws...Quote:
Originally Posted by jinsean
Or buy a tap, a tap wrench (little thing that holds the tap and has a handle), insert the tap into the hole, and start twisting. The metal is very thin, just go a little bit in and you're good.
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Originally Posted by jinsean
You don't have to thread the holes like I did. All you need to do is drll a hole if there is not one there then use self tapping screws and make sure you don't get too close to the core!
ladderman i must say are you ready to cook that spagetti tubing mess or what.
hehe, very nice self made brackets for that top rad and res.
hope to see the completed picture soon. looks like the only thing left is cleaning as you said and shortening. then its fill her up and power on.
this is excellent!!!!!!!!!! amazing job!! just some more inspiration for my build!!!!
for those threads on the rad and case, how is the metal on the PA thick enough to hold it stable enough with screws? wouldnt each screw wobble against the thinness of the metal, or is it thick enough to screw in stable and tight?
And on the average radiator, how far would the side be from the core would you guess?
Things have been slow going for the past few days. There never seems to be enough hours in the day.
Anyway to bring you up to date I’ve sleeved all the fan cables, I also sleeved the cable on the Evercool SB block, the Soft power LED, and most of the cables on the PSU.
Next job on my list was to reduce the size of this brass wheel nut on the EK NB block. As you can see there is no room left to between the tubing and this nut to get a clamp on.
All I did was tighten it on to a bolt then use a drill to spin it while I used a file to reduce it down to the size I needed, it did the job ok.
Tuesday was a very long day! I started cleaning all the watercooling parts at 9am and didn’t get finished until 7pm. I had to flush the rads a good few times and run them on a small loop for most of the day before I was satisfied they were clean enough. I then flushed them a good few times with de-ionised water.
I stripped and cleaned all the copper parts of the blocks with vinegar. The barbs, pumps, tubing and reservoirs were all cleaned with de-ionised water. Then everything was put in to sealed bags ready for use.
As I said Tuesday was a long day, because after I finished cleaning all the parts at 7pm I started building the loops and at 3.30am finished leak testing and bleeding them, and thank god there weren’t any leaks.
I’m still running a long leak test, it’s been running all day and everything is fine. I’ll let it run until tomorrow then I’ll add all the other components.
I’m unsure whether to have one loop green and the other blue, or just have them both green. What do you think?
Also should I use Coolsleeve on the rest of the tubing?
The metal on the rad is ok to thread for a bolt and holds the rad securely. The thread holes do not go anyware near the core, they are to the outside of them.Quote:
Originally Posted by sick_g4m3r
VERY nice stuff! :D
It's looking really good! I love that case :)
good job man, very proffesional
Yeah very clean job perfect :)
VERY nice stuff! :D
Very nice projects but just a few things though:
-The reservoirs don't seem to line up vertically and are not on level with each other.
-The way the tubing comes of the lower videocardblock is a bit awkward, i'd cut the rectangular hole in the divider plate a bit larger and just let the tubing come of the dowside of the block.
-Ditch the coolsleeves, they're horrible. :p:
Otherwise, one awesome looking rig. :up:
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Originally Posted by Zeus
The inlet pipes on the reservoirs face towards each other because of the way the tubing runs back to the reservoirs on each loop. So one res has to be at a different height than the other.
There is no room for the tubing to come from the underside of the gpu because of the PA rad and the galaxy psu.
I have only tried to use coolsleeve were it’s needed. I know a lot of people don’t like it but it does have a purpose.
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Originally Posted by Zeus
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Originally Posted by I34z1k
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Originally Posted by pie_uk
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Originally Posted by lasse.j5
Thanks for all the positive remarks:up:
Can't you just turn the res in front so that the barbs aren't facing toward each other?Quote:
Originally Posted by ladderman
Personally i think it looks better when they're on level with each other.
That's a shame, it's hard to determine from a picture how much space is left to route the tubing.Quote:
There is no room for the tubing to come from the underside of the gpu because of the PA rad and the galaxy psu.
Again a matter of personal preferences, i think it looks cheap.Quote:
I have only tried to use coolsleeve were it’s needed. I know a lot of people don’t like it but it does have a purpose.
sorry to bug you... cant seem to find a place for the rubber trims...Quote:
Originally Posted by ladderman
can you suggest a good place to get em?
thanks!
http://www.petrastechshop.com/neruedtrmo.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by kinghong1970
Only place I ever shop :)
http://www.petrastechshop.com/cawimo.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by kinghong1970
If you live in the UK you can get it at:Quote:
Originally Posted by kinghong1970
http://www.kustompcs.co.uk/acatalog/info_2046.html
That's a pity. D-Tek tell you not to do that to the Fuzion.Quote:
Originally Posted by ladderman
They say it'll bugger up their layer of some kind of corrosion protection.
The box is coming along nicely though. You're being very thorough.:up:
Loooooool :rofl:
http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/9...aaf15d2qo4.jpg
Cleaning wb in scullery machine :eek:
:up:
I didn’t know that D-tek advice you not to take the Fusion apart to clean it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedda
I’m not overly concerned because the only metal in the loops is copper, so there should not be any galvanic corrosion.
Thanks for letting me know :up: