Jason:
vdd?
1.2 or 2.0?
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Jason:
vdd?
1.2 or 2.0?
The 250 is sc: Twinmos PC3700, set at 8, 2, 2, 2.5
Before the mod I could do dc at 245MHz FSB with 2x256 Twinmos PC3200 w/winbond
This has dropped to dc 235MHz after the mod, and I really don't know why. Anybody?
Quote:
Originally posted by m0rm0r
Jason:
vdd?
1.2 or 2.0?
vdd: 1,6V
It's a v2.0
i wonder if i would gain some fsb on my v1.,2
maybe some more caps for the ram too
Just a thought but it could be the length of the wires u used. The extra inductance of these wires wont help with the voltage stability.Quote:
Originally posted by Jason
The 250 is sc: Twinmos PC3700, set at 8, 2, 2, 2.5
Before the mod I could do dc at 245MHz FSB with 2x256 Twinmos PC3200 w/winbond
This has dropped to dc 235MHz after the mod, and I really don't know why. Anybody?
I have a few boards that I can steal caps off of. I just want to make sure that I am doing it correct. Do I just solder the + side of the cap to the + side of the existing cap. ( I am going to go from the back side of the board like Jason did. Do those caps even have a +/- side? Should I only add caps to the 6 by the socket (in red) or are there any other recommended caps I should try? Thanks in advance,
Nate
what id like to know is IF this is working for people, why the F****** HELL dont abit put these decent caps on the boards in the first place?!?!!??! i mean its going to cost them what? an extra 5 cents/3pence per board by the time they buy in bulk some decent caps. shows lack of quality to me that we need to do this crap when its so easy for them to do it.
looks like im off to get me a soldering iron and a few caps tomorrow from halfords.
p.s. why dont you up the vdd to at least 1.8 and see if that now helps some more?
Abit and the other manufacturers don't do it because of the cost, pure and simple. They go with the cheapest materials they can that will meet the spec - and the spec doesn't call for 250 mhz FSB.Quote:
Originally posted by Ewok
what id like to know is IF this is working for people, why the F****** HELL dont abit put these decent caps on the boards in the first place?!?!!??! i mean its going to cost them what? an extra 5 cents/3pence per board by the time they buy in bulk some decent caps. shows lack of quality to me that we need to do this crap when its so easy for them to do it.
looks like im off to get me a soldering iron and a few caps tomorrow from halfords.
p.s. why dont you up the vdd to at least 1.8 and see if that now helps some more?
I wish Abit and Epox would consider putting out a real Cadillac of an overclocker's board - something that costs maybe 50% more, but uses the very best of materials and performs like it. It would be interesting to see if it would sell well.
if only i could design my own motherboard :D will this work for any other nforce2 boards?Quote:
Originally posted by BrainStorm
Abit and the other manufacturers don't do it because of the cost, pure and simple. They go with the cheapest materials they can that will meet the spec - and the spec doesn't call for 250 mhz FSB.
I wish Abit and Epox would consider putting out a real Cadillac of an overclocker's board - something that costs maybe 50% more, but uses the very best of materials and performs like it. It would be interesting to see if it would sell well.
Quote:
will this work for any other nforce2 boards?
It will work on ANY supply/regulation circuit, nothing new here except the specific application....
Edit:
Nforece2, Canterwood, 845, your power supply, whatever will work on any of them, beneficial or not is the real question....
Jason: Thats great news :).
I'm not done with this mobo just jet though. 3d at 250 would be sweet and thats what Im aiming for :).
Very nice Hognert. I knew that it could help clock the cpu higher. But i had never though about that it could increas the fsb :D I'm going to do this with an old kt333 board have though to do it for some time becuse some caps begining to get bad. But havn't had the energi to remove the board yet.
Quote:
Originally posted by Jason
The 250 is sc: Twinmos PC3700, set at 8, 2, 2, 2.5
Before the mod I could do dc at 245MHz FSB with 2x256 Twinmos PC3200 w/winbond
This has dropped to dc 235MHz after the mod, and I really don't know why. Anybody?
Thats odd.. No idea whats that all about :/. The length of the wires will have a impact, keep em short and thick. But in any case the board should never perform worse with them attached imo..
I can do everything besides heavy 3d apps at 250 3-2-2-2 DC with my board. Takes 3,45V Vmem but my ram aint the best there is either.
btw: The numbers Ive seen in lobby with this board are still stuck behind my eyes ;). No problem doing drago and nature but completing both car and lobby at the same time will not happend atm :/.
Hognert
Do I just solder the + side of the cap to the + side of the existing cap. ( I am going to go from the back side of the board like Jason did. Do those caps even have a +/- side? Should I only add caps to the 6 by the socket (in red) or are there any other recommended caps I should try? Thanks in advance,
Yea these caps do got a + and a - side. Other types do not. And yes you must mind polarity + goes to + and - to - :).Quote:
Originally posted by Nohto
Hognert
Do I just solder the + side of the cap to the + side of the existing cap. ( I am going to go from the back side of the board like Jason did. Do those caps even have a +/- side? Should I only add caps to the 6 by the socket (in red) or are there any other recommended caps I should try? Thanks in advance,
Adding caps to the "12V-side" might help even though i seriously doubt it will do that much. Feel free to try it out though.. let me know how it works :).
Other caps.. Well at this point I really dont know. What I would like do is to really examine this board with a oscilloscope to find out. Only problem is that I dont got of them atm.
Edit: The six by the socket are the ones I changed on my board yes. The five to the left are the "high-side" or 12V.
I'd just like to note that THIS is why I frickin love this place. No where else on the net does this kinna extreme hardcore stuff happen. This stuff blows my mind. I wub you guys.
Hognert and whoever else tried this: Please specify which PSU you're using as well. I'd bet that this will help alot more on mediocre PSU's than say a top-end PC Power & Cooling. But I could be wrong, need more results I guess.
I'll prolly try this on my rig later (abit NF7-S v2, PC Power 400W), but I'm having compressor problems right now, so it won't be for a while yet.
Nohto, let us 8RDA owners know if it works or not!Quote:
Originally posted by Nohto
Hognert
Do I just solder the + side of the cap to the + side of the existing cap. ( I am going to go from the back side of the board like Jason did. Do those caps even have a +/- side? Should I only add caps to the 6 by the socket (in red) or are there any other recommended caps I should try? Thanks in advance,
Quote:
Originally posted by Hognert
Yea these caps do got a + and a - side. Other types do not. And yes you must mind polarity + goes to + and - to - :).
Adding caps to the "12V-side" might help even though i seriously doubt it will do that much. Feel free to try it out though.. let me know how it works :).
All I could find in town are some 16V 2200 ones. Better than nothing I guess.
but I'm puzzled wether they have a positive and negative side...
the - side IS marked on the cap itself, but there doesnt seem to be a "side"... there's a wire at one end and a wire on the other end instead of 2 wires @ one end. So I have no clue what is + and - in this case :(
the cap is marked like < - < - . am I to assume the - side is on the left ? or on the right of this ? Or could I put this cap either way? please give me a clue on this, I'm not going to just "guess" here ;)
You have axial caps (wire at each end). The ones with the wires at the same end are called radial. Same things apart from that.
Yes, the < - < - means that end is -ve (points to -ve, left side in this case).
Thanks, I had figured it out myself already, I saw a pic of a cap and noticed the + side is the side where the cap has a small ring in it.
Anyway the rest is a dissapointment, and I'm bloody annoyed with my NF7
I soldered the 5 2200 caps neatly onto the board, they were too big to fit but I raised the mainboard a cm or so higher in the case to compensate. The board works fine, but nothing has changed.
I was stuck around 230 before, I'm stuck at 230 now. Literally ZERO effect :mad: :(
still the same problem too that I can get slightly higher FSB at 2.03 Vcore than at 2.06.
I need 2.30 Vdd still to get into windows at 233, which I cannot get stable at any voltage. It'll freeze at some point or another.
I guess things didnt get any worse, but I was hoping for at least a few MHz extra.
I would have to say now that I dont recommend this mod in general..... it wasnt worth the 5 euro worth of caps, not the fuss of dragging everything out of my case and soldering it on either...
Im pissed now, I want a better board :(
Sorry to hear that JC, obviously these boards are "crippled" in different ways :/
it appears so :(
I threw 2.50 Vdd at her right now... just to hurt it.
230-231 is not reliable at high speeds, it needs loads of Vdd, but I didnt really gain anything over 2.40
You sadistic beast! :eek:Quote:
Originally posted by JCviggen
it appears so :(
I threw 2.50 Vdd at her right now... just to hurt it.
Well JC i hope u dont treat ur wife/gf like u treat ur mobo!.. :D