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who am i to question CM but personally i would change it up so that you have an equal amount intake as you do exhaust(by the minimum but more exhaust is fine too just not more intake than exhaust). By the looks of the picture you have plenty of air blowing in but not enough fans to equally exhaust the air. I would do an exhaust all all the fans(except for PSU you sould leave that as an intake)and leave only the fronts as an intake IMOQuote:
Originally Posted by Natalia
wow
Something must have been wrong when I ran AquaMark3 and 3DMark 2006 the first times, maybe a background application. I ran them again today when I was testing fan configurations and Got 188K for AquaMark and 10,882 for 3DMark 2006. I updated the original post as well.
Finished my fan Testing.
I removed all the filters that were on the fans. This created a lot more air movement. Then I played around with many of the ideas and suggestions that were brought up here. I will show you some of the results.
Orignal Setup w/ Filters:
CPU Idle: 42C Maxed on Orthos: 58C
Motherboard: 30C
Top GPU Idle: 57 After 3DMark: 76
Changed Side Fans to Exhaust:
CPU Idle: 42C Maxed on Orthos: 57C
Motherboard: 28C
Top GPU Idle: 58 After 3DMark: 71
All Side Fans Intake
CPU Idle: 40C Maxed on Orthos: 58C
Motherboard: 31C
Top GPU Idle: 52 After 3DMark: 66
Top Right & Bottom Left Fans Intake, Bottom Right Exhaust
CPU Idle: 38C Maxed on Orthos: 54C
Motherboard: 28C
Top GPU Idle: 46 After 3DMark: 62
Well, I think I found the sweet spot :banana: Thanks for tips here and the nudge to get these fans re-oriented.
Oh, and for kicks and giggles, I just ran AquaMark @ 2560x1600, 2AA, 16AF and got a 114K score :p:
Oye... back to howework now :o
that aqua mark score is higher than mine at normal settings:slobber: :slobber: :slobber:
hot rig:slobber: :D
Glad you got it figured out. An 11-14 degree change in that top GPU is nothing to shake a stick at. Nice work.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Natalia
**applause**
cool and the gang. nice scores also.. now I'm dying even more to get my conroe crossfire rig built.. Oi! parts will be in this week. :D
cheers!
are those cpu readings from CoreTemp or AsusProbe btw? they seem high for asus probe reading and at that voltage. Might want to check your mounting and IHS sometime.
mds
Quote:
Originally Posted by mds47
From ASUS Probe. That program is also showing my VCore to be 1.41 when in the BIOS I have it set to 1.35. :shrug:
Hey Natalia,
Does the bios let you move the Cpu Multiplier downwards?
I was looking at getting this board, some users have done great with it even hitting 450fsb to 470fsb.
I just wondered if you could check the fsb max for me at a lower multipler...
btw, like that picture.
regards
Raja
Quote:
Originally Posted by Natalia
The p5wdg2 ws pro overvolts, then droops about .02-.03 at load, may be ASUS's way of dealing with the droop on a workstation board whose normal buyers will insist on stability. The market for this board is not consumer use, but large corporate use. This is why we may see fewer bios updates, with fewer options as compared to the other boards.
Raju, I am not able to lower the multi on my retail E6600 on either the 0004 bios or the 0307 bios, not an option ASUS gave us. on a personal note, and good to see you here, and thanks for your help on the cfx3200 at DFI-street, trying to deal with the ULI issue on that board.
Quote:
Originally Posted by linflas
You can use Crystalcpuid from XP, and then use clockgen to up the fsb. Let me know if you try this as I'm really interested in the result..
regards
Raja
Few things I'd pull off for better performance:
I'd change the multiplier to 8, and then run a 437 fsb with a higher voltage (1.5v is perfectly fine guarenteed 100%...also tests have shown that conroe runs better with a higher fsb...the higher the fsb the better) which would turn out 3500mhz..with a 437fsb you can run your ram 4:5 @ 1080mhz with 4-4-4-X..that might require 2.4v-2.5v but D9GMH chips love the voltage and these chips are designed to run at that speed, also lifetime warranty is very nice, should be fine might get a lil warm I'd put a fan over it..whether its a 92mm fan who cares, active cooling will work..
also graphics cards, definatly take off the heatsinks and reapply AS5 to everything, clean it all up some alcohol and you'll be fine...that will definatly drop the temps more..
its a shame everyone here buys g.skills GBHZ..and goes yay I have it! but they never overclock it! lol these chips are meant to hit ddr2-1050+!...all the way up to 1150mhz with like 2.5v/2.6v cas4!! Come on people!
actually I wouldn't be surprised if you could hit 3600mhz with a 450fsb @ 8x with only 1.5v...running your ram @ 1125mhz 4:5..maybe with2.5 you can do that, bachus was hitting 1140 4-4-4-8 with 2.5v..all chips and boards are different though..
Uggh, windoze based overclocking, not my favortie thing, but if I have time tomorrow, which i should, will do this for ya, though i think sierra_bound already did some numbers on this.Quote:
Originally Posted by raju
Thanks Linflas, it's only to see what can be achieved by us more normal folk, some of the guys here are very experienced and it's nigh on impossible to get to the same oc. I just wnted to see the fsb potential that's all, I'm no fan of windows based oc either, but it'll show if bios is holding back the bootup fsb compared to outright fsb potential.
regards
Raja
PS. I now have the board on order from here (you need to be a member to see)
http://www.ocxtreme.org/forumenus/showthread.php?t=2511
got vmods too..
regards
Raja
Is there an issue with how close the cards are together on this board? Looking at Natalias pictures it looks as if the top card in her SLI config only has about 1-2mm of space below it... wouldn't this badly affect the card temperature?
Really need to know this before I go for this motherboard and find out that my Crossfire card overheats :(
The label on it says 2.0-2.1v though :( What's safe to put through the D9 G.Skill PC2-6400 HZ?Quote:
Originally Posted by andyisc00l
It probably would but then it's not like you've got much choice. Either run the stock coolers, other potentially better air coolers or water cool both of them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Durzel
Also, think how close the cards are on a single GX2 as well. They manage to run ok, albeit a touch hotter with thinner fans and have lower stock clocks.
Very true... but the problem I have at the moment is I'm trying to weigh up having either a P5W-DH which has known issues with high FSB (I think mine tops out at 405), or a P5WDG2-WS Pro which seems to be miles better with people reporting 450+ easily with no mods.Quote:
Originally Posted by [timko]
I'm going to be running my E6700 under my modded single stage eventually so it's really a question of whether I'm happy to sacrifice however much Mhz I will lose from a board which craps out at 405 vs whatever temperature issues I would have with having my two X1900s so close together.
Here is a bad quality pic of what they look like in the P5W-DH that I have now, to give some sort of idea of where everything is.
Just wanted to bump a hot college girl from new jersey's thread. Nice rig, you might consider overclocking that chip you have a little more. You should be able to get closer to 4ghz and 400 fsb with that setup.
She should really try going higher with that CPU. Up to 1.5 volts shouldn't be too bad as long as the temperatures are cool enough.Quote:
Originally Posted by hoodlikegaza
I should be getting my stuff by friday or so and we'll see how it handles 1.5 to 1.6V
My goal is 3.6ghz (e6600):stick:
Quote:
Originally Posted by orion23
:p: This is my first time overclocking a computer so I think I might be being a wuss about it :lol: But who knows... maybe I will get the nerve, though I would rather have something that I never have to worry or stress about running it all the time, 24/7.
huh?? only 3.3GHz ... i was hoping P5WDG2 WS Pro OC much higher than that maybe:
E6600 3.6GHz
E6700 3.8GHz
something like that ... but its performance per clock is the best compare to any board from what i have seen. it does more work per clock compare to other board,
but too expansive, and i want SLI so im getting P5N SLI .. heh
Im not sure how you can be so sure with out this exact case. Not to dis your engineering degree (what subject was that again?) but take a bit of your own advise.Quote:
Originally Posted by Btrice
Ok, engineering degrees notwithstanding, more air fresh air on the motherboard gives cooler temps, it's a fact repeatly proved time and time again by many modders and many stock cases. I agree you want intake=exaust, but in the end more fresh air is always better. Personally iwth the three side fans on the case i would remove the lower left one and use it as a blow hole, i think thats the best setup for the equipment she has.Quote:
Originally Posted by Btrice
Certainly there will be hotspots with this setup, but show me a setup like this without and ill give you $20. simply the layout of computers like this create hotspots everywhere there is turbulence.
Quote:
Originally Posted by theteamaqua
Oh, I have gone higher... but I am too wussy to leave it there with that higher voltage :sofa:
yea.. but staring at that blue screen hoping your computer will post and get into windows pisses me off, not sure about you.Quote:
Originally Posted by linflas
Actually, I heard the MSI 975X Platinum Rev 2.1 has the fastest work per clock due to the tightened timings on the northbridge. I think there was someone who did a comparison. They took a C2D (Forgot what model) and had it running 300mhz faster on a DS3 and the C2D that was 300mhz under the one on the DS3 still beat it. That's not a direct comparison, but it gives an idea of how fast the MSi 975X is, lol.Quote:
something like that ... but its performance per clock is the best compare to any board from what i have seen. it does more work per clock compare to other board,
Just to find the bios version and the CPU clocks, and etc... get Cpu-z, CrystalCPUID is good also, and Sisanda works well too. I'd also download Speedfan (the latest version) if i were you. it works well, and it graphs your voltages (for Vcore, 12V, 3.3V, and 5V). Of course, not the most accurate readings, but it's nice to see a little graph of your droops and all. Setting your voltage higher and having it drop in windows is most likely a bios error (seems like every board has a bios problem). That or I misread the vdroop problem.
Anyway Try 1.53V and 3.8 - 4.0Ghz (atleast try for 4.0ghz +, even for just a suicide). Eh, 3.33Ghz? For a 300 USD motherboard, I'd be expecting a lot more than that, lol. I don't think it's worth like 80 bucks for a 64-bit PCIe port and an extra ethernet port or something and get the same overclocking results as everyone else.