You will get it my friend. The job you did looks great and you should be very happy with it. If the temps become an issue you could always use a radbox on the back at your 120mm fan opening and install a dual rad and use the existing hole as a blow hole.
Nice loop there, I have the same motherboard and I had the same issue about a month ago except I was getting no signal to my monitor although everything powered up fine. I think it was a blown cap but I sent it away for RMA and all is well now. They replaced the board. I also have a water loop and I thought I would have to drain the whole thing just to remove the mobo but I didnt have to. I just removed the blocks from the mobo and GPU and let them just sort of sit there while I carefully removed the mobo. Saved me alot of time and trouble, the only issue I had was getting teh GPU block back onto my 7900gt when it was time to resurect the rig. I eventually got it though, but why not try RMAing the board? You have said more then once "looks like its time for a new motherboarD" Not sure if you meant buy a new one, or just get it replaced but I would definetely try the RMA route first. There looks to be no physical damage so RMA should go fine. Anyway, good luck! I like the blue color of the water, looks sweet!
Have you tried calling VW dealers? Lemme know, I'm in TO too!Quote:
Originally Posted by Shpoon
Diesel, you might have knocked off a transistor or something handling the motherboard. Or one of the waterblocks might have bumped against something during install... I've had that happen before. Hope it's all good man, nice work regardless :(
make sure you use clamps, i learned that the hard way when a tube popped off and i had a heart attack...
my mobo, ram, $70 keyboard, and psu were filled with alot of water :(
what happened after that? did your stuff survive?Quote:
Originally Posted by ReD.SkY
its drying now
will try tonight
I know I'm new and all but I have the same motherboard and had the same type of problem...did a bunch of upgrades to the system including removing my IHS, re-connected everything and turned on the power but no music.
The bottom of my stomach felt like it was falling away. :)
My problem turned out to be very simple. I had forgotten to re-connect the 4 pin power cable to the upper left MB connector. Reading in the manual, it says the bad boy won't fire up without it.
Anyways, just for good measure...check to make sure you have that particular power cable secured well. Without it connected, the computer looks like it powers up properly but in fact it doesn't even POST.
Hope you get it figured out soon.
Alright, I'll try to look around. What am I lookng for? G11 is the standard in Germany, no? Not really sure what to ask for.Quote:
Originally Posted by D0nut
Edit: Found some, nearby. You can pick it up locally :p (I live in Whitby though :/)
Red and Blue: http://www.precisiontuning.ca/catalo...p?cPath=43_151Code:PRECISION TUNING MOTORSPORTS
2901 Steeles Ave. West Unit 30
M3J-3A5
Toronto, Ontario
Hours of operation:
Monday - Friday 9:30-7:00
Saturday 10:30-6:00
Sunday Closed
Phone: 416.514.0284
What's the difference other than colour?
Edit #2: And to those out west.
Red: http://www.concept1.ca/fluids.htm
Blue: http://www.concept1.ca/OE%20Cooling.htm
(Scroll down, call to order).
Edit #3:
That's in use for cars. Think it'd make a difference in WC loops? I much prefer the blue over the red :p Wait, screw the G12, no matter the advantage. Once mixed with water it'd be pink. I'm not in touch with my feminie side enough for a bright pink WC loop! :pQuote:
Hi everyone, Sorry I have not had time to contribute much lately but
the holiday season is upon us and time is at a premium. I found some
good info on the coolant problems. See it below. Also check out our
new Holiday page http://www.newdimensions.com/Holspecl.htm
Well have a nice Thanksgiving ! and I hope to chip in more soon.
Unlike the previous coolant, this newly developed product permits a
cooling system fill that lasts the service life of the engine and
was designed with all-aluminum engines in mind.
Advantages over previous coolant:
Improved corrosion protection
Improve thermal stability
Improved heat transfer/control
Improved hard water tolerance
Improved environmental protection
CAUTION!G 012 A8D A1 must NEVER be mixed with any other coolant.
Engine damage will result !
G 012 A8D A1 is red in color.The mixture of G 012 A8D A1 and other
colored coolants is immediately identifiable by discoloration (brown,
purple etc.). If this mixture is used in an engine, a foamy deposit
will appear in the expansion tank/radiator.This mixture is to be
drained immediately and the cooling system flushed as described
below.
Diesel, I couldn't/didn't search for your last thread, what mix did you use? 10% Pentosin, 90% distilled? And with the Scrubbing Bubbles, you put some in the tube, let sit, then flushed with water I assume? So it's some heavily corrosive stuff?
Interesting what turns up. (The 40%...though I realize it's for cars)Quote:
Q: What about these numerous reports of corrosion?
A: At PDI, the tech generally tops off the car with straight G11.
He claims that this could very well lead to corrosion.
You should never use more than 60% G11 and 40% water. He showed
me Audi service documentation on the subject. Likewise, you
should never have less than 40% G11 in your radiator.
The mixture is what provides the best heat transfer, and too
much or too little really hurts.
I don't get that, I thought G11 was completely non-corrosive. Reading further it seems the corrosiveness of G11 is debated as heavily as the overclockability of Retail Conroes ;).Quote:
Q: Why did VW develop G12, if there was nothing wrong with G11???
A: VW changed the head gaskets mid-production in 1997, and G11
didn't agree too well with the new head gasket material.
The new head gaskets are all metal. G12 is only in the cars
with the new head gasket.
Ouch...donut, I may need to paypal you 7 bucks, and you send me a half bottle :p Or, can I paypal you $15 and you just Canada post it to me? That $10 shipping seems outragous.Code:Shipping to CA : 7 lb(s) $10.50CAD
I'm gonna measure a 2L bottle in a bit, and see what shiping would be from say...Hamilton...to me.
Hmm, providing you had a box that was 13" x 6" x 6" (roughly what would fit a 2L bottle) and the thing weighed ~2KG (1.5L, give or take a bunch, I rounded up), regular parcel mail from TO to me would cost $9 anyways....I might as well just order it lol.
so? hows it goin?Quote:
Originally Posted by ReD.SkY
clamps a must have...
diesel come back soon, blue is a nice color...
Sorry guys I'm back from a painful camping vacation as I was eating my brain trying to figure out what was going on.. guys thanks for your replies and Yes, I tried everything I took everything out and got down to the motherboard.... so I'm going to order a new mobo as soon as I can. I think I probably killed the mobo by handling without ground protection.. that's the only thing I think of and no leaks were found.
Man .. what a let down... even by pulling all the stuff out my loop looks strong.. no leaks at all .. I was worried about playing with the hoses pulling parts out but no leaks all waiting for a new mobo... I might have to buy a similar mobo Asus A8N SLI Premium or Deluxe if I don't want to redo the loop again.. meaning will have to buy tubing again and some clamps.... I'm scared of getting the same motherboard I was thinking on switching to a LAN Party one but I really don't want to destroy the loop I already have ...
did you try mobo before you WC it?
Yes, it was working during aircooling solution for many months :DQuote:
Originally Posted by septim
However and I'm proud to say not a single drop of water was spotted during leak test and final assembly :p:
shees. thats why i have that anti static gloves. it looks gay but i'll rather be gay than damage my equip.
You have a PMQuote:
Originally Posted by xXxDieselxXx
Dang! I was hoping that it would just be the power cable like when I had the similar problem.
I use a grounded anti-static mat to keep those ESD evils at bay and have never had a prob. It has a cable that runs to the center electric cover screw for grounding and a wrist strap attached to the mat itself.
I hope you get up and running soon!
hey. when youre using those anti-static straps attached to a metal case. will it be ok if the case isnt grounded? or does it have to be grounded too.Quote:
Originally Posted by InTheFlow
im confused. the instruction said that the psu should be plugged in a wall socket so the case is grounded. :confused:
Personally, if all I'm using is an anti-static strap, yes I keep the case plugged in to keep it grounded.Quote:
Originally Posted by rhkenji
However, with an anti-static mat, this is not necessary provided that some of the metal part of the case is touching the mat.
That's why I went the mat/strap route...pain in the rear to do the 'keep it plugged in' thing. ;)
Wow I've built my rig several times, was too lazy to go out and buy anti-static stuffies, nothing happened to me. All I did was put my case on the kitchen counter and grounded myself by touching the case lol. Everything works perfect. Hope to see good news from your next post Diesel.
Usama aka Ferrari Freak
I have always done just the same defeating that rule ;) never thought it will ever happen to me I even used to build 14 PC's per day back in my college days while I was working on the side never ever had problems with that.. I'm still skeptical it was static charge but I can't think of anything else.... other than I have read that mobo has that issue but I'm sure it wouldn't happened if I didn't touch it.. my biggest fear was a leak and never saw that at all... I can be proud I did a heck of the job... but it just looked pretty ... never worked lol. Now I'm stuck trying to convince my wife to allow me to buy a new mobo... she thinks I killed the mobo with water lol. I feel like a little kid asking for permission but that's how we work things out in our relation... we both make decisions based on mutual agreement. :banana: I know I'll get the go in few days ... it always works.. .she knows it's my big hobby plus just came from a camping trip where I had to compromise :woot:Quote:
Originally Posted by ferrari_freak
Here you go... sorry for the late reply...
One thing I find weird is when I plug a very old 130W PSU which doesn't have the CPU fan or 4 pin power connector the mobo will boot On. It seems like the mobo won't send the signal to the smart 500W PSU .
Somehow I get green light from the mobo but won't boot at all
http://img54.imageshack.us/img54/9318/greenlightyj9.jpg
Here all connected
http://img57.imageshack.us/img57/3615/moboconzc9.jpg
http://img332.imageshack.us/img332/9898/mobozoomjq3.jpg
i had something very similar but what i found out was that my ram was damaged the board didn´t do anything till i removed both rams then the leds counted up (the 4 red ones) and showed that the ram wasn´t installed.Quote:
Originally Posted by xXxDieselxXx
so with damaged or not installed ram you don´t get an boot screen only this dumb leds counting up or this green lan wake up led . maybe you´ll trie it with another ram?
Breaking News..!
It's a miracle..! :toast: Playing with the multimeter I was checking voltages and decided to see if the power switch jumpers were in short.... to my surprise when I turned the multimeter knob to the "Buzz" setting then I proceeded to test to check the 2 jumper pins a little spark along with the buzz when off and wallah..! the CPU fan started to work.... it seems like the Buzz setting emitted a little charge that woke up what i believe it is a relay that send the signal to power On/Off... man I'm excited... I think the static charge probably created a short on the power switch jumpers.... so far I have tried unplugging and plugging back the PSU and it seems to be working now.. Well... time for me to put all together to see if I can boot to windows ;)
Will let you know later... My Multimeter.... fixed my mobo I can't believe this lol :banana:
<<< Update >>>
If I unplug the PSU for some time it will not respond again... I have to actually use the Multimeter to do the same.. lol I feel like using battery jumpers.... if the PSU is not disconnected it will work every time...
Lol, ghost in the machine...