Just to let you guys know that I have received the usb to RS232 cable and it works like a dream, no more problems if you have not got the port, just use this cable and away you go.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/USB-to-RS232-R...QQcmdZViewItem
Printable View
Just to let you guys know that I have received the usb to RS232 cable and it works like a dream, no more problems if you have not got the port, just use this cable and away you go.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/USB-to-RS232-R...QQcmdZViewItem
I installed a controller to My Xe2 today ..Works like a treat :up: :oscar: :oscar:
Thought about splitting the lcd from the rest of the unit but not to sure if i should.. :confused: as the black socket on the pcb i was going to take of to add pined wires..but the black plugs didnt look like they wanted to be removed and i didnt want to risk breaking anything...;)
every part of this product i like...its Awsum .. :clap: i will fit this unit into my Lightspeed as soon as Asetek replace my chil control unit :) wich i think is in posting process now..
My temp probe seems to be reading hotter than My Xe2 probe/sensor..
about 7c i think...in menu it says you can re calibrate?? if needing to remove from end of evap head /suction line ...i will leave it as it is...
As i H8 removing clamshell to often..
Here is a picture I mounted lcd section inside 2 drive bays on a Plastic tray...just a quick fix untill i can consider where to mount..
http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/7...e141jd5.th.jpg
Good controller guys :up:
Thanks Hori
Mines running sweet as ...im So Happy i Braved the lcd split and placed the lcd in drive bay on its own..looks proffesional now.
went to Jaycar and bought sum bits to split unit ...
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/8...0660eu7.th.jpg
i placed this part of the unit behing compressoor Fan...
http://img49.imageshack.us/img49/3691/img0665lc4.th.jpg
hard to get a good picture of the whole unit so i just took 1 of the lcd area in the drive bay...
http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/7...e001ry5.th.jpg
only thing i have to decide now is to run my quad like this at 3.8ghz 24/4 or switch over to the LS and keep it at the 4Ghz 24/7 :-)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unseen
This link has gone mate, any chance of putting it back up for downlaod.
are you sure? It works for me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unseen
Sorry mate i put the wrong link, i was looking for the latest version of DrFrosty150, the link does not work anymore.
Would it be possible to re-put the link up.
Many thanks.
Looks small and simple , I like :)
Hope Runmc does not mind :)
Version 150 here:
http://www.under-the-ice.com/downloads/DrFrosty150.rar
And PDF manual here:
http://www.under-the-ice.com/downloa...Controller.pdf
PM me if you have any issues.
Thanks mate.Quote:
Originally Posted by rogard
im not having much luck getting Dr frosty 1.5 to read evap temps..might be my usb to db9 drivers ??
Cheers Hori
hello any help with Drfrosty reading temps ??? also usually if i change fan speeds and accept changes it reboots my pc ...
needs somework to Dr Frosty ...4 buttons on controller works a treat though..
i will talk to crmaris for your problem my friend. Sorry for the delay.
Thanks Unseen.. other than the software problem the unit runs sweet...i really like the safty feature that you can set before you start up..
Cheers Hori
I have fixed the problem..it was the serial cable i put another cable on and reads temps fine...
Thanks Hori
Any work been done on Dr Frosty ??. or any planned ??
Cheers Hori
@Unseen: Are you mybe thinking about USB connection in the future for PC and k-type thermal probe? If you can do that, i think that will be perfect.
Regards
Yes and be sure to let me know when you have them :D I need some :slobber:Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleDevil
Freeze Pack Controller >>>> :party3:
Would be NICE :D
we are working on that guys. Gsmaster have already made something for k-type but we are still testing it. :)
Also USB :D ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Unseen
Yeah double that??Quote:
Originally Posted by HoriWanderFuLL
Hello.. I am a little over the edge right now with my Phd work( i am developing a Wi Fi network simulation program testing various rooting algorithms,security issues etc and i have exceeded 10,000 lines of code!! ) but if GSmaster makes a new version of Freeze Pack that can handle the extra options that my program has i am willing to make a new version of Dr Frosty..Quote:
Originally Posted by HoriWanderFuLL
Heres a link to latest Dr Frosty. If i make a new one i will post it here
http://ct-green.ct.aegean.gr/~crmari...e.php?id_art=8
thanks..
Thanks crmaris for the reply...
Cheers Hori
Edit ..i have 2 of these controller working now ..im fitting 1 in my Xe2 over the weekend and the other i will use on acustom cooler..
Thanks to Gsmaster for sending out my cable extensions and new bios chip so fast had it in Australia in 8 days of ordering :up:
i had both units on desk yesterday trying to decide wich would be lucky 1 to use first ehe...
interesting though how 1 unit was reading 19c and the other was reading 13c
ice water trick for both units ???
Cheers Hori
I shipped some more controllers today. We are rolling again :)
http://www.under-the-ice.com/index.p...ee35cd24b94feaQuote:
Originally Posted by Unseen
This still says that they are on back order.
What color are the displays?
Blue :)
I have already shipped some to ron.
Thanks Christo :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Unseen
Keep them coming :)
could i get the dimensions for the display and buttons below it for a case im designing? i would really like one but i need to design the case accordingly.
I attach the front panel dimensions for the controller.
The latest blue lcds have a slightly smaller bezel. These are the dimensions for this lcd to fit OK
Best regards
John
I used the old cut out patter for the new controllers and it works fine. I need to put a taper on my mounting screw holes :(
Looks gooooOOOOOOoooood...!!!!!
With the word "taper" you mean to widen the holes near the head of the screw in order to be lower inside the metal of the case? (I cant express it well on english...) So the screw head will be at the level of the front panel. It will look very nice to the look and touch
So the case's lcd "window" is 14mm height? Remove the protective memvrane off the lcd from one side to see if the metal bezel of the lcd is visible.
Yes you understand what I mean by taper. Taper means to start big and go smaller. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by gsmaster
I don't have the cases ATM. They are getting power coated. Next Wednesday I can do what you request and check the bezel.
To taper a hole the way you are describing is called to "Countersink" :)
Nice job runmc.
Unseen - gmaster
Will it cause any problems for the controller parts and adaptor to be all together?
Kind of funny... I think I've seen most people using taper for metal while countersink for wood. Same thing really :P
Looking good Ron :)
nope :) You wont have a problem ron.
Freeze Pack Control goes together very well. I have another case to assemble, so I'll do an informal installation guide. I like this controller. :up: I would love to see K-type probe though because it would be much better for connecting probe to evaporator.
I decided to mount the main controller board on the back wall of the case to avoid running long PSU and compressor wire from front to back of case. Thank you John (gsmaster) for the suggestion. :) I haven't securely fastened the stands to the case. I'm waiting on some super strong 3M tape to hold it with.
Hi Unseen or Gsmaster...
1 of my controllers the 1 on my Vapo System temp probe errors today ..
turned on vapo and it started my Pc strait away wich was Q6600 with 1.7vcore lol sensor says -111c
i know how to fix with re calibration and all that stuff..ice water in a bag
just wandering was it condensation on the sensor wich makes it give this error??
If so what would be the best way you think to attach on the end of the suction line ..i just taped it on..with black electrical tape..
Vapo standerd has heatshrink over sensor but this would be impossible now as its complete.
ideas on a good seal of the sensor would be appreciated.
Cheers Hori
This temperature could possibly be a bad connection of the sensor cable to the board, as well as a possible condesation on the sensor's leads.
The sensor's leads are in heatshrink, then dipped into hot glue, and then again heatshrink. The only possible place that candesation can cause a problem is bettween the sensor's case and the hot glue. You can warm the hot glue with a lighter in order to seal again any cracks.
I did not use heat shrink on the sensor's surface because that would make it slower to respond to temperature changes, and bigger to the size.
Also there is no need to recalibrate the sensor, This is not a calibration error.
Cheers
John
o dear ..i did recalibration last night in ice water ..when it was 0c i reset..
last night it would not read colder than -2c after i done this
Today i just got home turned on the unit and it was reading -2c no differance when sensor probably should of been reading +21c maybe high as +24c...
as it usually would...
i will look at controller end of the sensor tonight ..
Maybe i should buy a few sensors of you since i have a couple of units ..and i doubt i would be able to buy here in Australia..since there 3 pins on the controller...
Cheers Hori
Isn't it variation of LM335?
These sensors are widely used across globe.
im not sure Jinu i actually havnt a clue ..im a Phase user not a Phase builder :(
The sensor is LM35 from National Semiconductor.
one thing I would like to have is automatic on/off backlight since it's pretty anoying with light on when unit is off (especially for those who have computer in bedroom).
I've fix this by putting a relay for diod parallel with compressor relay, not optimal if something fails but it's still possible to read the display (as long as it's not dark in room). I need to measure more but I hope it's possible to find another source of power to make lighing on when something is written on display.. shouldn't be diffict to make.
I'm also intergrating pwm controller for fans. will show you guys when controller is 100% finished, I'm still playing with it.
regards
Tim
I'd love to have a 110/220v -> 12v PSU built into the controller ala VapoChill's Chill Control. Would make assembly easier as it'd eliminate an entire PCB from the build. Just a suggestion, a minor inconvenience for a superb controller.
gomeler:
yes thats easy to do BUT it will costa furtune to ship the controllers, the transformer will weight ~750grams extra for EACH controller, I don't want to pay extra for that. also it's nice to be able to choose transformer depending on use. For example if I use 230v fans it's enought with 3va transformer to run the controller and if running 2*deltas inside I need alot more, ~25va transformer.. it's good to have options.
regards
Tim
More Freeze Pack Control :)
how well would this work on a water chiller? How about a water chiller and a SS in the same case? could it control both?
They look very nice Ron.
Runmc what enclouser is that custom make ?? looks good nice solid blocks stopping evap head flopping around...
Chilly1 evap and enclosureQuote:
Originally Posted by HoriWanderFuLL
Thank you all for the feedback and suggestions
Ron, Nice setup! I would like the 7pin flat cable not hanging touching the compressor, if the length of the cable is enough, do something with it.
TopherTony, The controller is primarily designed to control single stage phase change systems. It could work for a chiller also, as the start up & safety settings can changed as desired.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gsmaster
LM35 more info there looks to be lots of LM35 sensors..Have you the correct code.
Looks like it was bad where solder to the sensor i removed heatshrink today for a look..
are these soldered inside then closed up Crimped??
just correct model of lm35 would be great thanks John and i will refix at home.
Page 14 i think this is the 1 http://www.jaycar.com.au/products_uploaded/ZL3336.pdf
Cheers Hori
Hori the link you posted is for the LM335 series not for the LM35 they are different.
Here is the manufacturers product page http://www.national.com/mpf/LM/LM35.html
You need the LM35 in a TO-92 casing. The letters behind the label LM35xx are just different models with different accuracy and other characteristics and of course different price.
LM35DZ, the cheapest one will work fine.
Any other casing (except TO-92) of LM35 will work but the size and shape of the sensor does not help for proper installation.
Try to re-solder the sensor, and run it for some hours, it might work.
Thanks mate for the correct info..when i was rying to remove the wire sleeving and as i was moving it i could see temp reading up to where it should be and i was wigling it and it broke it close to the sensor :( ..So i will just buy a new sensor.
Ok all i need to know is ground/pin Vout/pin and Vs/pin on the controller and i can wire to the new sensor..
i used a multi meter on the controller i have left pin 5v middle pin 0v right pin .062v this is looking at the controller from the front being temp pins 1st from the left.
Please wake up Greece must be breaky time by now :-)
ho ho ho....
You connect the +5V terminal of the LM35 to the left pin, center pin to center pin of the sensor, and the remaining two pins together ;)
I attach you a drawing.
Thanks alot for the drawing helps alot...
cheers Hori
Hori -
Please take a picture of the circuit board and show us what you are repairing. This will aid someone else down the line that may have this problem. :up:
Cheers will do..if it is just the sensor cable hopefully not circuit board..
Although i bought 3 Lm35Dz sensors yesterday had wired up correctly anyway before Gsmaster posted the pic..
seem to be still having same troubles..Maybe i go back to store and get differant than the lm35dz..as i read today the dz dont read sub 0c temps....
i think i need the lm35Axxx series..
so atm i seem to be stuck at around -2c evap and no lower bios temps reading -28c
all i seem to be doing is making a huge mess here lol and new cooler to arrive bye this time next week..so i want this 1 sorted out before i start next operation ..
It depends on the way the sensor is wired on the circuit.Quote:
Originally Posted by HoriWanderFuLL
I also heard it once or two times the past year, Can you please show me where did you see it?
(I prefer an official datasheet, or a very reliable site)
You also have a PM.
I added an on/off switch - it works like a charm. :up: Thanks gsmaster and jinny :D Red light comes on when powered up.
anymore work being done to software ? most settings i change wont save Also i keep getting this error..
Tmp probe all fixed Lm35dz works fine in comparision to Multi meter probe reading.
http://img187.imageshack.us/img187/3825/drfrostyot0.jpg
Hori
Restarting the programm, or the whole system should fix this problem.
can someone post links to current software for vista
current firmware
and manual.
Thanks
Unit will be her in a little over 1 week.
I got the manuals, but missing the software, would be nice of someone could tell us where it is or send it to me, and if I got the permission I can upload it on my webpage (gigabit upstream).
regards
Tim
sorry for doubleposting. but here is the software (dr frosty) uploaded on a proper server.
http://www.phasechange.se/misc/apps/DrFrosty.rar
nice. check this :
http://www.ortodoxism.ro/datasheets/...r/DS005516.PDF
if you need software or pdf files on manuals contact me on Msn , hor3ndus@hotmail.comQuote:
Originally Posted by tim-
i would not bother running the software..as i noticed other day my temps was running higher than they should be..i did some searching on why and found that dr frosty was loading up the cpu alot!..
i think the Controller by itself and buttons are just fine..i have 2 of them i trust them pretty much on readings..especially now since i bought a multimetere that reads temps and also a temp meter and all are reading along same lines as my gsmaster controller when attached to the same point.
if you start from post 1 and read through you will find all the information on manuals and settings on the controller..from memory gsmaster/John starts posting from page 3.
Good controllers both going well so still a nice product , And support is usually only a message away .
Hori
yes it's a good product, even better after some modifications ;) I do have the software and manuals, as i've written earlier I've also shared the software via my ftp on unseens permission.
well to getto the point, why I post. I was talking to unseen quite some time on msn and he told me he would be happy if I shared some of my mods here since it seems like noone have done anything on them? well I'm currently trying and using some other mods expect this one I will show, but since I'm not 100% satisfy with the other ones I keep them for my self until it's working 100% on all SS units i got in all situations.. which isn't the case atm..
well to get to the point as i said.
This is an modification to make the backlight on the display to turn on/off together with the compressor. original the controller has the backlight on as long as you have electricity to the unit, which is 24/7 normally.
to make it easy:
http://phasechange.se/photos/misc/fr...t/DSCN0122.JPG
find the compressor relay on powerboard, it's the one next to the compressor connections (2screw connectors). flip the board upside down and locate the 12v feeding to turn the relay on/off. they are the two zoomed in in picture above, I've also solder 2*0,25mm^2cables on those.
http://phasechange.se/photos/misc/fr...t/DSCN0124.JPG
here I have flip the board right again and attach a very small relay, solder the power to the relay (different pins depending on relay). I use the cheapest relay my electrical hardware store supply, cost ~2e incl taxes. the relay is now soldered parallell to the compressor relay I've also solder two cables (0,25mm^2) which will conduct electricity when the relay have power (ie compressor is running).
http://phasechange.se/photos/misc/fr...t/DSCN0127.JPG
now, desolder one of the pins for feeding the backlight on display. then soldder either the cable or a 2pin fitting as I did on picture above.
http://phasechange.se/photos/misc/fr...t/DSCN0128.JPG
a closer look how it looks.
http://phasechange.se/photos/misc/fr...t/DSCN0130.JPG
http://phasechange.se/photos/misc/fr...t/DSCN0131.JPG
the two pictures above shows the whole think mounted together and it fits good and works like a charm. display is possible to read even if backlight isn't on, for example if it fails to boot of some reason, but it require you to put the lights on in the room.
if you havn't understand it now, what you have done is that you have cut one of the legs on the display backlight and put a relay on the "line". this line will be conductive when the compressor is running.
easy to do and cost ~3euro totally, for me and many i know it's defenatly worth it since many have their computers in the bedrom, and the backlight is very braight and enoying when you try to sleep with it. when ou have build a unit it would never fail if you build it right and therefor i havn't put to much attension to the little "downside" with the lack of backlight on error messages.
hope this will help some of you.
nice......
Hehe :) Very nice Tim. Thanks for sharing.
Very nice Tim - For me, I'll stay with my on/off switch :) Very simple mod of splicing into power line. :)
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...1&d=1193785599
Hello ppl!
Nice to see users posting their ideas. Beware that the lcd in the mod is not availiable. The lcds currently availiable do not have the same backlight style and the backlight pins are through hole soldered on the pcb, The same mod can also be done on these lcds but not in the same way.
It really does matter the type of the lcd.
By the way, do not do anything if you do not know exactly what are you doing.
Regards!
gsmaster:
your right, I've got in touch with both versions of lcd and it's pretty easy on both versions since i've done it on the new ones too.
btw, maybe you should intergrate this function in next version of controller?
Make the backlight go on at the same time text is shown. for example when you adjust settings in controller or an error messages is shown as "boot fail" or such
regards
Tim
Yes tim, It is one of the sure things to add in future versions.
can anyone tell me a way to run a system with a freeze pack in it without the computer so i can do so load testing can i just hook up a computer start botton to it and run it like that
You need to connect a psu to the controller's molex.
To start the psu you need to connect its (green if I remember correct) wire with a black one.
Basically the controller needs to "see" a voltage of 5V on its molex plug so that it thinks the pc is on, and the controller itself stays on. The voltage value is not so critical anything bettween 4-12V will do the job. For example you could use a battery pack.
DO NO FORGET, POLARITY (+ -) OF THE VOLTAGE MATTERS!!
Double check before you do anything. Ask if you are not sure about something.
Regards!
Quote:
Originally Posted by gsmaster
John the drawing is wrong... instead of 7.5mm it should have been 6.5mm... was wondering why the cad kept coming out wrong -_-;
Some more Freezepack Controllers are ready to ship ;) And some of them are already shipped! Thanks for the trust!
http://xs124.xs.to/xs124/08055/pic0001522.jpg
Thanks to you and Gsmaster for making good products, and giving a proper help/support to all customers;)
I'm sorry it probably says somewhere in this thread already, but how many temperature sensors does this read and to what temperature?
it's just one probe, and it reads down to -50 for sure (i've tried). I also remember that someone had this controller on a ~-60*c range rotary unit and the controller didn't show below -54*C.. think it was piotres.
I can vouch for that, I've had my NL11F down to -59°C unloaded and the Freeze pack stopped at -54°C.Quote:
Originally Posted by tim-
That's ok tho, how often doe's any useful SS run below -50°C odd.
I'm sure it's in the thread somewhere...but can't seem to find it right now....what's the price? Also, can you ship via USPS priority to an APO address? Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by Unseen
usps is an american postal company, not located in greece, and last time i talked to unseen he was moving to ireland.
send him a pm or gsmaster, ups/fedex or something should be possible to use.
unseen these the same version as the old ones, or we got updates to these babies?
kayl: i got one out of this batch and it's the same version a I assume. It's a tad different color of the components (relays) but otherwise, the menus, functions, dimensions, software is the same.
http://www.under-the-ice.com/product...roducts_id=111Quote:
Originally Posted by miahallen
Perfect, thanks for the link! :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by killermiller
Hello people!
There are minor changes on some parts of the controller (relays,terminals, capacitors...etc),depending on the availiability of these parts, but the design is the same.
As regards shipping, I usually ship with the local post, and the package requires a signature on delivery. The package should arrive at the local post office.
regards
john
Hey guys, got a quick question about my freeze pack. I have been using it for a while now on my test build. The other day I turned off all power by switch off the surge protector as I was leaving for the weekend. when I came back and turned it back it it now reports wrong temps, like way off. Sitting on the porcessor at ambient temp (like 20c or so) it says its over 50c... anyway I can do a reset?
Thanks! I love the contollers!
Hello
What do you use for the controller's power supply? Possibly a high voltage spike at the mains power, has passed your power supply and damaged the controller.
Hey gsmaster. I am using a small dc power adapter like the one here: http://http://cgi.ebay.com/12V-5V-DC...QQcmdZViewItem then have a molex connector and using the 12v of that to the controller.
how can i get one of these controllers
Hello
That can be hard now ...
From what I know :
Unseen stopped all works connected with phase-change .
GSMaster is in army . Try to PM him, there is an e-mail adress in his signature.
Good luck ;).
Best Regards
Peter
does anyone do controllers as well
i think duniek is starting to...
Hi,
I have 3 left. If anybody wants can pm me.
hehe you should do an auction on those!