http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/2812/untitled1yd.jpg
are these the solder points then??
http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/2812/untitled1yd.jpg
are these the solder points then??
Yes they are, scrap the surface (12v) and the right point is the ground.
PD:Nice little pics XD
Yeah going to redecorate my room with the pics:D(WALLPAPER:P)
nice job wouter;)
someone with a b1 do this... i'm dying to see if it will help break the fsb limit of 170 or so.
if this will break the B1 fsb block everybody will buy a B1, they have really hight multi, for extreme coolings they are perfect!!! even a crappy 1500mhz is 15x!!!
exactly:). my 725 was awesome and i can get it back(yay for a local trade to a cool guy). i'm just going to do the mods soon and see if my 730 can compare. now if only the p4gd1 had multi control in bios... :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by Malachia
Hipro, what about this resistor? Will it work for the vcca?
I also ordered that one but I'm not sure if it will work.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gautam
As of now - I don't plan on using that it. Hipro will have to approve it first.
yeah, 1/10th of a watt is really tiny. very easy to blow those. i'd stick to the 1/4 as suggested earlier
Hipro did suggest a 1/10W for us from mouser...the part number on this one is just slightly different.Quote:
Originally Posted by cirthix
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gautam
Yes that's OK.....;)
really? 1/10 is really tiny for a resistor. are there any 1/4 watts in that package size? i wont be buyign one lol, i'll just keep ripping apart old mobos and drives untill i find one hehe.
Don't worry about the wattage of the resistor.....It passes through it only some uA....;)Quote:
Originally Posted by cirthix
PM 740 c0
i soldered the 3.2k , now i read at pin 2 1,8v , but no change . Max freq. still 2650Mhz :( (with 1.616v, only vdroop)
Don't try with fsb400 ;) , the system is not stable...
WAITING OTHER MODS !! :banana:
The VCCA-mod (resisitor-mod) is not responsible for higher CPU clocks, but higher FSB. For higher CPU clocks you'll have to do more than just that single mod. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by correx
yes, it was just a little test, waiting the other components... (thanks for the pics Waus-mod!!)Quote:
Originally Posted by celemine1Gig
Give the thanks to hirpo :D and me for applying his great work :P
then what had been tour oc result waus?
Done the rest of the mods now :D :
http://img353.imageshack.us/img353/6126/dscf00027by.jpg
http://img353.imageshack.us/img353/2774/dscf00011hz.jpg
still booting only @ 246 ish but I think my vcore has improved and my max benchable OC raised a little bit..
Hmmm...Quote:
Originally Posted by correx
Could it be that the 400 FSB jumper is already 1.8 volts?
According to the docs, the 533 CPUs are supposed to be 1.5 volts and the 400 CPUs are supposed to be 1.8 volts. Maybe this is exactly what an unmodded adapter is supplying?
This would explain why people have been having better results with the jumpers set to 400. And it could also explain why a modded adapter is now unstable when set to 400 (it's likely well over 1.8 volts after modding).
will these caps work?
i'm talking about the surface mount ones by the socket
the other parts i intend to use ar sitting by the socket, and yes, that cap has legs, but you cant see them because they are pointing straight up
Quote:
Originally Posted by bleagh
good point...hmmm..
you might need to redo that VR, lawrywild...
no.. it works fine, i measure 1.83v @ Pin 2Quote:
Originally Posted by STEvil
I think you have a really good point, as the VCCA mod still is only letting me boot the same as without the mod and the 400fsb jumpers..Quote:
Originally Posted by bleagh
Can anyone with a 533 fsb chip try to confirm this, that he is able to boot at higher fsb's with the 400FSB jumpers?
I have a 730 chip but my p4gd1 doesn't have multi change in bios, so max boot FSB is 225, which can be done with both jumpers easily.
hipro5: Can tantalum capacitors be used instead of the ceramic SMDs (the 1uF/63V)? If yes what is the orientation (ground and +) of those spots?
Just asking because those I can buy one at the time where as for SMDs I would need to order 10,000
I have everything collected and as soon as Hipro gives me the okay on the parts I have, I will bag them up.
PM me if you want one of the kits. http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...6&d=1134563448
No they can't.......Each capacitor is made to do a certain job.......;)Quote:
Originally Posted by gooFly
@ runmc ALL the parts you have ordered/got are OK and top quality too......;) :)
hipro, any comments on my results? they seem a bit dissappointing.. got any ideas for me to improve..?
First of all, MOVE AWAY the 100uF electrolitic cap from the PCB......IF you take a good look underneath it, you will see MANY lines.....Those lines are carring DATA and they are from the CPU.......They are "printed COILS"......Move away of them the cap and place it in another direction......It is impossible to boot only at that fsb!......Can your CPU handle more frequency?......Try to lower the multi and see if you can boot at higher fsb than 246MHz......Quote:
Originally Posted by lawrywild
run how many mm are those 100uf? I have the 5mm they will only fit, max is 5mm between ct and mobo.Quote:
Originally Posted by runmc
Can this be replace by a SMD 22uF/6V Tantalum capacitor?Quote:
Originally Posted by hipro5
Damn now I have to find someone/someplace where I can get those 4 ceramic SMD capacitors :/ since I don't feel like ordering 10,000.Quote:
Originally Posted by hipro5
ofcourse i tried lowering multi, and yes it could handle more frequency on 11x anyway..Quote:
Originally Posted by hipro5
i dont understand? why would the cap touching the pcb cause any problems, i'm pretty sure moving it another direction wont do anything..?
Yes it can......Quote:
Originally Posted by gooFly
Good since now I found a place that can supply me those ceramic SMD capacitors and only have to buy 10 ;). Shame that I can't use SMD Tantalum capacitors instead of those ceramic SMDs :( since found these http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?hand...oductid=193978 at my local shop.Quote:
Originally Posted by hipro5
Can I install the 100uF, 47uF and the 22uF capacitors and use the board while I wait for mu 1uF SMDs to arrive?
You can do that......Quote:
Originally Posted by gooFly
On how high fsb could you able to boot?......Quote:
Originally Posted by lawrywild
It matters.....You may encode lookups within Windows and unexpected freezes......
Have you tried ELFA?Quote:
Originally Posted by gooFly
Mats: Yes I have and my local ELFA told me minimum is 10,000 but now getting them from Yleiselektroniikka.
ps. Kan vara att ELFA säljer i mindre, men försäljaren var trött ;)
Tur för dig!:toast:Quote:
Originally Posted by gooFly
nah it's fine in windows mate ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by hipro5
even with the VCCA mod alone, i was able to boot 246..
i'll probably re-solder the VCCA mod when i'm finished skool in a few days.. :cool:
All my components arrived today, Hypro can you give them your OK?
100uF/16V electrolytic cap
Murata 25V/1uF ceramic smd cap
Tantalum cap 22uF/10V Low ESR
Tantalum 47uF/16V smd cap
Also ordered 1K2 1% smd resistor to replace the existing one.
Thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by lawrywild
I am able to boot that high without any VCCA mod done using the 400FSB jumpers.
I'm one of the older Americans that didn't learn about MM:D It looks like 5 of the little marks on the bottomfr to meQuote:
Originally Posted by Waus-mod
Thanks for asking bro.:toast:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...5&d=1134597027
Hhaha ok. they are 5mm ? You can compare with the 100uf's @ youre audio controller of dfi nf4 ;) Otherwise place them on the top site of the ct :DQuote:
Originally Posted by runmc
so could i.. :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by lowfat
instead i have the opposite problems...inch, feet, fingers, hairs, noses... :DQuote:
Originally Posted by runmc
EDIT
i wrote feets, i'm lucky that my english teacher isn't a clokker... :D
I tried the Vcca mod today by replacing the SMD resistor with a (regular) 1.2KOhm resistor.
I have a Celeron-M 350 (Dothan 13x100Mhz) CPU that wouldn't POST above 165FSB. Well, after the mod it still doesn't :(
Maybe I'm hitting the CPU's limit itself, even though it's cooled with a Zalman Cu7000 with silver grease. I'm thinking it should be able to go higher with this bastard..too bad the multiplier is locked in all directions, so I can't test 6x200..
Looking at the SMD resistor, I wonder if it's truly a 2KOhm? Did you guys measure it? I took a super-macro picture of it with my digicam and looked at that. Seems mine has a '8', something else, and an 'E' or 'F' stamped on it:
http://www.stack.nl/~brama/pics/smd.jpg
Not a very clear picture, thanks to the epoxy gunk :D
Well guys....kits for us Americans (and anybody else who wants to pay a lot for shipping :D) are now available. Head on over to runmc's online store for the full kit.
For those that don't know his store, you can find it here: http://www.under-the-ice.com/index.php
IDK how much stock he has though, so you might want to hurry up ;)
Thanks for the link!Quote:
Originally Posted by Vapor
Just ordered myself there! Looks like this weekend will be mod time!
Hey! I had no idea that RunMC had a shop or that there was any shop like that. Thanks for the link and I hope it does well!
Im a celeron 350 user too... before the mod, i was able to boot at 175fsb. After the vcca mod, im able to boot at 180Mhz. Both jumper setting at 400fsb.Quote:
Originally Posted by stragulus
there is this thing that i noticed. The more i increase the Vcore, the more lesser fsb i can boot with. i.e... If i set Vcore to 1.5... The max fsb i can boot with is 175Mhz... however, if i put it to auto, i can boot at 180Mhz.
All testing done on stock cooler. I dun think heat is the issue here as the temperture on the heatsink doesnt feel much difference from default to 1.5V Vcore. really puzzles me.... :confused:
so, hippro, you think the caps i posted about earlier will work?
Why don't you try to boot with the jumpers placed at 133MHz fsb and see how it does....?Quote:
Originally Posted by rx8
You mean to unsolder those ceramic caps from that mobo and then solder them onto the adapter?......If yes, then there are 2 points....1.They are for the VCore so some of them will do their job.....2.They are for the VCore BUT they might also be at 6Volts rage.....In this case, they'll do their job as for our VCore onto the adapter BUT they will encode problems with the filtering of the 12Volts(maybe sort-circuited).......;)Quote:
Originally Posted by cirthix
alright, i'll see if i can get new caps from work. the resistor that we are putting a 3.2komh resistor in paralell with is a 2kohm one, so a 1.2kohm resistor would work as a replacement for the 2kohm and have the same effects, right?
if i can't get different caps, how could i test to see what voltage they are?
Yes but keep in mind that unsoldering SMD resistors/caps, it's not that simple/easy......Before they soldered, they are glued onto the PCB with some short of strong glue and afterwords they are been soldered.......So trying to unsolder them you may: a. broke them(or their leads) and b. rip off the lines/pads that are soldered on.......The best is just to solder another one onto them in parallel.......;)Quote:
Originally Posted by cirthix
After all it's easier to solder another one above them than to unsolder and solder back another one.......
if you look close, 4 of them are already gone ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by hipro5
Why do I love surgery?.......:DQuote:
Originally Posted by cirthix
yah, i did. it capped at 180Mhz also.Quote:
Originally Posted by hipro5
will add the rest of the mod when im free.
:) thks for the help
I've jumpered the thing at 533Mhz as well (didn't try at 400Mhz actually).Quote:
Originally Posted by rx8
Your 175 is a lot more than my 165 by the way. Nice going :)
My Celeron-M 360 (1.4) could boot up to 178 or something with 400fsb before mod, haven't tried after mod yet, but i currently have highest fsb ever on celeron-M i believe (validated 185)
hipro, I have had some bad luck with soldering and i done sth that i shouldn't. Is there alternative location for soldering resistor for vcca mod. I have unsoldered that 2ko SMD too :(.
can't you resolder the 2k SMD?
pics?
if i could resolder smd i would not need alternative location. I will picture adapter as soon as i get camera. In an hour.
p.s. i have found a word, soldering pad, i have succefuly removed the left pad :(
Pin 2 of the LM324 IC to ground......;)
http://img483.imageshack.us/img483/1...ront9rz5uz.jpg
will these do? and can i asc you, will it work without that 2k smd resistor?
Yes but only if PC6 is grounded.....First trim the trimmer at 2KOhms and then solder it.....Quote:
Originally Posted by zbogorgon
i tested with multimeter and it beeped, so it should be ground, i ll double checked that. I have trimmer at 1.24k.
Well I would like to know more about the differences between the 533 FSB jumpers and the 400 FSB jumpers. Because it sounds to me like the 400 FSB jumper(s) are already providing 1.8 volts. And it's a lot easier and safer to just change some jumpers than to do a resistor mod for the extra voltage.
I had no difference whatsoever between 400 and 533 - it boots at 238FSB max. CT-479 without modifications.
CT-479 with modifications - PM 750@2.86 AIR cooled
http://images.people.overclockers.ru/48928.jpg
what was the result before?Quote:
Originally Posted by M1ke
The 3.3K ohm resister I have is a tad larger than the one I am soldering it to.
Would it be okay to put a drop of liqud tape on top of the resistor right about it for insulation and then move the new 3.3k resistor partially on top of it so I will have a place to solder? I want to make sure this won't cause problems.
@ hipro5 : nice work (I only "fly-ed" thru all posts in this thread & I have to say: finally someone had the guts to do some mods ... :) Check also mine proposal about certain possible mods, you my find something you missed:
My posts @ Dothan overclocking thread, first one with some not quite accurate statements, but others IMHO Ok! Resolving certain problems! Mods!
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...007#post934007
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...273#post944273
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...197#post945197
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...595#post945595
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...319#post947319
Quite a lot of stuff to read carefully, I know ... :) ; there are also some later posts explanation to read too ... & here is another idea also! http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...920#post946920
*BTW that chip you are all searching, it is a voltage clamp chip, maybe could be found on some dead MoBo ...
@ caater : thanks for info with PM :) ; will follow also this thread even if I am mainly interested right now on Wireless Stuff ...
@ you other guys too : check my smallest Win9x ever, running entirely in Ram from bootable CD at the end of page http://users.volja.net/image/Files/ResQsys.htm ; usefull also for testing max. Fsb & max. Mem. clock prior to run your main OS (preventing its corruption); if crashing when PC too much OC-ed, no harm! :) Good for testing!
-- Seasons Greetings & Regards, SPAJKY ®
& visit my site @ http://www.spajky.vze.com
"Tualatin OC-ed / BX-Slot1 / inaudible setup!"
Pretty sure that's a CPU problem, I had a B1 that wouldn't go past 158Mhz FSB on a board that does 173MHz on another B1 (native supporting board - no adaptor).Quote:
Originally Posted by cirthix
i did the mods, it seems to have helped, but i'm REALLY ram limited now (even with 6x multi, hardcrash at 230 :(.
edit: turns out the ram isnt my limit, the ct479 is.
but here's pics of how i did it, with double and triple stacked 25v caps (only ones we had in stock) ;)
the solder points by the resistor is fine, it snot really burned, just looks that way in the pic
If the resistor was smaller, then it would not be easy for someone to grab it and solder it.......TOO tiny......With the resistor you have now, you can solder first one side so as to be holded down, and then solder it.....Afterwords, mesure it so as to see 1.24KHOhms and to be sure everythings is OK before you power up your PC.......I used to solder resistors 1206 onto 0603 ones......;)Quote:
Originally Posted by runmc
@ Spajky ........I'll read your posts.......;)
Why don't you try 5:4 divider or even 3:2 so as to see your CPU's overclocability first and then try to find your rams fsb?......:)Quote:
Originally Posted by cirthix
i just tried the 5:4 divider, same limit. not sure if its ram or not, but i'll try it later. it crashed hard at 12*231 and it used to crash hard at 12*125. the mod improved overall cpu clocking (an extra 100mhz untill i hit the fsb wall) a little, but something is still wrong with the fsb. the system also hardcrashes at 6*231 (by hard crash i mean complete system reboot or completely locking up, not just the normal crash of programs dying). i know its an fsb limit i'm hitting, but i dont know why. the cpu does 2.8ghz stable according to the person i bought it from (and they seem trustworthy)Quote:
Originally Posted by hipro5
come to think of it... do you think that the pin closest to "w" on the bottom of the adapter is causing these problems? It is missing and i have it contacted by a pin shoved in the socket. it doesnt boot without that pin, so its important, but i dont know if its limiting the oc.
on another note, do you know the vcore measure point (on the mobo) for the p4gd1? Asusprobe and bios both say about .07v higher than what i have set in bios, and i trust my multimeter a lot more than those readings hehe.
Lol cirthix this is exact same think happened to me. When i was moding with just a 3.3k res mod i broke a pin off. I dont think it's the pin that causes problem. In my case after this single Vmod i got a bit higher booting speed but overal overclock didnt improve much. Other mods that i dont have stuff for are important too i see. The thing is after that mod the res is there to stay. I tried removing it and the resistor on adapter i vmoded with this 3.3k one lost tolerence:) so it wold read allot lower voltage then before, Max Vcore i had was 1.4 when setting 1.6. As result i could only boot 200x11 even 2400g wodnt do.Quote:
Originally Posted by cirthix
I fixed that and also have found an easy Vcore mod for P4c800ed. Actualy its a Vcore and Drop in one:cool: You dont have to solder to pin 8 anymore much better to a Vcore adj resistor. When i did that Vmod it almost completly eliminated the drop too. The drop i did before didnt help much but this one did a good job. Il post pics later......
Need to flash my p4c to p4p to get rid of Raid, having problems with it loading windows when MB is below -20c. Also my p4p boots much better at cold temps.
Hipro im gona get 780 soon and finish that adapter Vmods. So how many people got positive results when completing all the mods?
Quote:
Originally Posted by railer
hmm... not me.. :(
All the mods aren't yet released, Hypro's results are including mods that he hasn't unveiled yet. I think he has released stability mods but not yet the ones which allow to increase max oc.
Quote:
Originally Posted by railer
no pins broke off or even bent when i was soldering it. the person who sold it to me didnt notice a missing pin
I'm sorry to say that, but those solder joints look horrible. OK, I'm exaggerating a bit, but they sure don't look good. Be sure to use some solder flux (colophony) next time. You'll see the difference. ;)
@Jojo1971:
you should definitely use better solder next time. also, you should rotate that cap, it won't fit with the heatsink retention frame. i actually have mine standing straight up and down, it doesnt cause a problem wtih either the 7700cu or 7000alcu :)
Well cirthix...
If you have planned some dry ice or ln2 action, a standing cap wont do you good on the insulation :) you if he lays that would be better.
Can't wait to see this one. I take it then that even the Dothans droop enough for a mod to help...skipped em in the first place thinking that their lightweight power draw didn't warrant it.Quote:
Originally Posted by railer
i promised myself that i wouldnt go back to water. i think it would be fun to try dice or ln2, especially since i could do it very easily at work, but i dont think i'll risk my stuff. high end air for me :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Waus-mod
Still waiting for pictures:rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by railer
Parts already ordered. Soon my mod will be ready and I will report my results :)
Heh, I recently run DICE on my unmodded yet dothan rig and I forgot to insulate 1 side of adapter. After DICE session that side was beautifully covered with frost :D But hardware was and still is working thanks to nail polish :toast:Quote:
Originally Posted by cirthix
my p4c-e vcore + droopQuote:
Originally Posted by railer
http://pic8.picturetrail.com/VOL256/.../122487606.jpg
Is the mod you speak of red spot - 50kvr - ground? This is the vcore mod for p4c I have been doing for awhile now, and I prefer to the pin8 vmod on the adp3180. It works very well and not as many issues with ovp latch off.... maybe coincidence, but at least thats what it seems so far.
Hipro, I managed to knock off the VCCA mod yesterday, then after that it was busted and my cpu's were doing crappy speeds of like 2.2ghz.. :S
today, I was trying to fix it and sort out the problem, but when I powered up, there was a POP and a puff of smoke :S , do you think it may have taken my golden 760 with it? :(
There appears to be no visible damage to the ct479, motherboard, or 760 so.. :S
any ideas?
Cheers.
PS: new one will arrive tomorrow..
Thats the one man, I serched for continiuty from pin 8 since i realy hate to solder to it with my not so pro toolset. Have 75K ohms resistor on this mod. I had a realy big drop on this board and the reg drop mod dint fix it. But this one just keeps my vcore so stable it wont drop at all even at load. I also did the Vagp and set it to 1.88 for now. So far i only manage 1060 FSb with this p4c board reg cooling but my p4p did 1200 easy.Could also be the cpu since i changed it.Quote:
Originally Posted by k|ngp|n
got my new ct479, everything seems ok, 760 works..
but it's kinda overclocking crap, only doing like 2.7-2.75 :S
think it might just need some mods tho..