Bong Designs

Well...I put in 4 hours today and blowed if all I finished
was the dam wiring of this bloody base :: sigh :: I cant
believed it soaked up so much time, I guess least its
complete now and the easy bits ahead...painting.

Here's final shots with 3 Ultra brights wired up with an on/off
switch, the upright cable contains extra wiring for fan and top leds (no
i didn't connect this to the switch... ) The top will have
its own separate switch.

http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp...ies_pic_14.jpg

Click here for full size pics

Back tomorrow hopefull with painted lit up unit :-)

Looks very nice so far :)
What is the black top made of?

Looking pretty slick there aussie.

I would however like to make a suggestion? But not about the bong.

There is no reason to be rude. If you dont want to read what someone says, then either ignore it, or ignore the user entirely.
Guess Im asking to lighten up a bit if you would, some people are still trying to learn and dont need others belittling them for asking ignorant questions. Afterall, the only way to learn is to read and ask. Just take it into consideration if you would.

IFMU

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by IFMU

There is no reason to be rude. If you dont want to read what someone says,

---

Wasn't aware i was... happy to answer any questions that haven't been covered in the thread previously, that said...a pet peeve of mine is people coming in re-asking questions already covered, people take the time to do a log/thread at least others can do is read the information contained in aforementioned thread/log and then ask questions, not the other way round...my two cents

Understandable... goes along the same line as having to repeat yourself when talking face to face, it can be frustrating!

If you feel you/or someone else, answered the question in the thread previouslly, you can ask/tell them to re-read. Just seemed that you were a bit harsh in saying so earlier in thread.
It is possible it's just me reading it incorrectly, just my opinion is all.
No harm, no foul.
Only asking to take a 2nd glance before hitting 'post' if replying to someone whos irritated you.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by IFMU

Only asking to take a 2nd glance before hitting 'post' if replying to someone whos irritated you.

---

No worries shall do...if I have offended anyone my apologies it wasn't and never is my intent ;-)

Wow you paid a ton of money for acrylic!!! I have a 16 dollar .22" 3 square foot sheet, and that's like a huge amount already!!! I love the look of that bong. Oh and if you didn't know, PVC is still bad for the environment EVEN IF its used in every single modern building, because the plasticizers get leached real easy, will not biodegrade, releases dioxin (bioaccumulative carcinogen) when it is incinerated, and takes a ton of money to recycle... sorry to introduce this environmental thing... just be sure that pvc pipe doesn't go in the trash can!!! Oh and about ABS, I personally like the black look:D Well I guess the environment really isn't a concern when it comes to PCs. Wires are insulated in PVC, solder has lead, takes tons of electricity, etc. etc.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by serialk11r

Wow you paid a ton of money for acrylic!!! I have a 16 dollar .22" 3 square foot sheet

---

I paid nothing for the 20mm (0.787 401 575 inch) thick 400mmx300mm (wish you Americans would get with the times and go metric like the rest of the world instead of this ancient outdated imperial rubbish LoL) plexi it was an offcut i wasn't charged for it, or the 10mm offcuts also free, I paid only for the 110mm X 1 meter OD pipe. $US22 for .5cm plexi is a rip off IMO I pay 20 bucks Australian for meter square thats around 11 bucks in your money.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by serialk11r

... sorry to introduce this environmental thing... j

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me too...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by AussieJester

I paid nothing for the 20mm (0.787 401 575 inch) thick 400mmx300mm (wish you Americans would get with the times and go metric like the rest of the world instead of this ancient outdated imperial rubbish LoL) plexi it was an offcut i wasn't charged for it, or the 10mm offcuts also free, I paid only for the 110mm X 1 meter OD pipe. $US22 for .5cm plexi is a rip off IMO I pay 20 bucks Australian for meter square thats around 11 bucks in your money.




me too...

---

I know I wish America went metric. However I am really familiar with the metric system, but I have to use inches and such because well, things come in inches here... My plexi sheet was 16 usd and 24"X18"X0.22" which is pretty decent, but I wish it was cheaper... seemed like a lot of money for a stupid piece of plastic lol.

Came in for some lunch and break from the heat in the
workshop and thought i would up a pic now of the progress
one less for later LoL -->

http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp...w/DSCF2910.jpg

Click
here for fullsize pic

PVC has been rubbed with 800 & 1000 grit wet and dry
then undercoated and one heavy coat of spray prutty...
shall give it an hour in the sun then give it a final sand with
1200 then start the layers of black epoxy, she WILL be
in one colour by days end i'm determined to see how it looks
altogether :-)

Back this arvo

Sorry if this has been asked before, but I don't remember reading it. Aussie, do you think you could give me a rough diagram of how your bong works? I'm still confused on what the purpose of that uniquely shaped based and water floater is for. Sorry for being such a noob.:confused:

The water float is activated when the water level in the bong drops to a certain level, triggering something to refill the bong. Its the lazy (but genius!) man's way of refilling the bong.

Same principle works with your toilet to stop the tank from overfilling. You flush, tank empties, triggers the float/fill mechanism, refills the tank and shuts off when its full.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Polizei

Same principle works with your toilet to stop the tank from overfilling. You flush, tank empties, triggers the float/fill mechanism, refills the tank and shuts off when its full.

---

Exactly Polizei, the mechanism I have in the tower is a float valve for a toilet-->

http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp...unny_float.JPG

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ramenchef

Aussie, do you think you could give me a rough diagram of how your bong works? I'm still confused on what the purpose of that uniquely shaped based and water floater is for.

---

Go into your dunny pop the top off the s h i t t a and flush it (top of the tank not where ya piss and poop LOL) and watch what happens, same will happen in this evap tower but on a MUCH MUCH slower and smaller scale :-)

IMO a brilliant method cost $US17 saved me a s h i t load of time messing about
fabricating something that in hindsight probably wouldnt have been
as good, of course a mains water line is required to the evap tower
which as previously mentioned I have..

Small update-->


Have the first two coats done they came up trick :-)


http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp...w/DSCF2914.JPG

Click here for fullsize pics

As seen in the pic they are out in the sun..33 degrees
here @ the moment so wont be long before they are
dry enough to give a rub back with 1200 and one last
finishing coat...

back when thats done...

Final update for today and I'm happy to report
I have the bong tower together (just for a pic)
Still requires a light sand and another coat before
a cut and polish but as I said earlier today I really
wanted it in colour and together for a look by the
end of the day and it has been achieved-->

http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp...ies_pic_15.jpg

Click here for fullsize pics

I'm obviously biased but I think it looks fantastic!

I'm even more eager now to get the water flowing
and the remaining ultra bright LEDS in the shower head
shining through the water...anywayz, thats
it for today's work, shall be back at it in the
a.m tomorrow and back here soon there after
with another progress report

Ciao for now :-)

Looks really good. Well done!
Do you have a ETA when you are gonna run it for the first time to get some temp readings?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Fr3ak

Looks really good. Well done!
Do you have a ETA when you are gonna run it for the first time to get some temp readings?

---

Thanks...

Probably over the weekend, we have big celebration in OZ tomorrow its
Australia Day (public holiday fireworks etc etc )

I doubt it will be hooked to my pc but definetly get water temp V's ambient temp readings.

Wow that is a bong with STYLE!!! I thought if one day I had enough time (and no parents bugging me) I would make a 100% acrylic bong, but it would be expensive...

Well I got the base completed today, added a Thermaltake LCD water temp monitor/screen swapped out the old style switch for a new one and added a second set of wires out for top LEDS that work off the switch, the lower section is now assembled and ready to go :-) I also hit Bunnings up and bought all the hose and fittings required for hooking up a mains water line to the pc desk so we are set to go :-)

What i now am missing is my bloody digital camera, i grabbed a Taxi in a slightly :cough: intoxicated state Thursday night and left my backpack in the cab...yup in the back pack was my 400 dollar camera...not a very happy AJ this arvo when i went to get aforementioned camera and only then realized I didnt have it :-( Called cab company and was told call back Lost & Found Monday during office hours...I hold little hope of ever seeing it again...

My best bud Snapper is dropping his camera around Sunday arvo for me to borrow so shall flood the forum with updated pics then...

Till then ciao from me....

Doh, sorry to hear about the loss :/
Was already wondering why you are not posting pics, at the first sight :)
No need to rush. Whenever you are done, its fine. Better late than never.

You have brought attention to bong coolers to me. Now I have to build one lol
But I dont think I will have the time to until summer break.

Thanks Fr3ak :-) Hopefully i get some good news tomorrow when
I call the cab company.

As promised though here's an update copied straight
from my thread on OCAU-->

OK..as mentioned my best bud was droppin off a spare camera,
I fart assed around for an hour trying to get some pics close to
the usual quality of mine alas it is only a 3.2MP camera...

Hope these will suffice for time being gents --->

http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp...ies_pic_16.jpg

Click here for full size Pics

Aside from running fan power the base is complete had it hooked to
mains water this morining for 3 hours ensuring it was leak proof hehehe and
the float worked :: woooosh:: it goes when i let some water out hehehe... (had to be there i guess) suffice to say it works a treat.

As can be seen in the pic i have a mcp-350 ready to rock...unfortunately shes not playing the game, is intermittently working when i switch on the power,
pissed about with it today for an hour and couldnt seem to find out why
it was doing it, if i cant get it going i slot in a Hydor L30 I have here until
i can get another mcp-350 shipped to me....

After three straight days of 40 plus heat we get a reprieve tomorrow only 33 so
shall finish running the tubes to the top, hook the fan line, temp sensor and get this S.O.B up and running for all those that have followed the build thus far :-)

ciao for now trendsetters :-)

Wow, that looks amazing mate.

Your handy work has impressed me in the threads I have read during my little time here. You're certainly handy with the tools (mind you, I think I am too after what I've done with my Lian Li V1200).

Might ask for your help later on in the year with waterblock making, as it something I'ld like to do.

Good luck getting the Camera back chap!

Might I suggest...... GRAFIX......:woot:

Thankyou for the kind words hehe and 'grafix' fellas much appreciated :-)

No luck with the camera im afraid, Taxi company never got it turned in I have
called the police and they did a report for me but they said not
to get my hopes up... looks like I'm in the market for a new camera...least
I still have my mates to use for awhile...anywayz update-->


...I fart assed about for too long today trying to get the Swiftech mcp-350
working properly all to no avail :-( I have moved to back up plan and fitted
in the lower spec less attractive 240volt Hydor (Seltz) L30 pump.

As all that was left to do for the base was the wiring I tackled this today. As the
Hydor L30 is a 240 volt pump and not wanting a separate switch I
I fitted up a relay, now the pump will start when the PC does :-)

The Thermaltake sensor also required wiring up and the 5volt fan wire also
needed to be run to the front of the unit. Here's a couple of sets of pics
showing the work--->

http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp...ies_pic_18.jpg

Click here for fullsize pics

http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp...ies_pic_17.jpg

Click here for full size pics

I took my sweet assed time doing the wiring but i can't stand unorganized wiring it really pisses me,
I think this has turned out reasonably well. I will simply make up a lead to plug into the pc molex,
this powers the Thermaltake unit, the lcds, 80mm fan and also the 12volt switching wire for the relay.
A standard ATX PC PSU lead will be used for the 240Volt connection... simple and clean IMO.

OK... tomorrow the top will be assembled, apologies I lagged behind a bit i had expected it finished today...

back tomorrow hopefully with a running unit :-)

Edit:

Forgot a couple of pics-->

http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp...ies_pic_19.jpg

Click here for fullsize pics

ciao for now

I decided to go out after dinner and knock up the
acrylic plexi holder for the LEDS in that will be mounted
on the shower head, here's how i did it -->

http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp...ies_pic_20.jpg

Click here for fullsize pics

Its hard to spot in the second pic but the area I milled
out in the plexi has been completely filled with silicone sealant...

This will set nicely over night and will be ready to mount up
first thing, then its simply a matter of running the wire from
the base to the top, and connecting the pump to the shower
head with tube....getting close now gents :-)

Back tomorrow with some running water ...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JuanFlaiter

I can beta test it. Where do I put my mouth? =D

---

HERE >>>>> http://www.spankwire.com/articles/4542/:banana::banana::banana::banana::banana:_Bong.html

someone please explain to a n00b WTF is going on in this thread.....clearly it's not what i thought it was......nor Juan :p:

First MAJOR failure with the Evap Tower this arvo during
preliminary testing this afternoon-->

http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp...ew/Picture.jpg

Click here for full size pics

I asumed ClearFlex would hold the pressure of mains
water...obviously I was horribly wrong LOL...Luckily i
was sitting right in front of it feeling the water when all
of a sudden :: thud:: and the water level begain to rise....
QUICKILY HAHAHA... I switched the tap off on the inlet
(I knew I put it there for a reason hehehe) I shall swap
this out with the reinforced hose you see on the pump
to tower and that will be problem solved.

Also... The float is being relocated to its own seperate
enclosure...think of it as the bottom of the tower...on
its own base connected by a hose to water level of the
tower like so-->

http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp...ES_dESINGE.JPG

Now... the reason for this is silence, while the mesh is
working in its current state its not 'silent' and that's how
I want it, I have gone to the trouble to make the Tower
and thus eliminating 3x120mm fans on a rad and replacing
it with a 92mm on 5volt...the pitter patter of water isn't acceptable
at current levels SO...with the reservoir setup it will feed
the main tower much the same way a budgie feeder or
automatic dog bowl does, when levels drop in main tower,
the res containing the float valve will top it off, when the
float level drops, the res will be filled again automatically
THUS allowing me to drop my mesh down to ~1cm off water
level eliminating all noise...This obviously cant be done
now as there is a good 6inch drop from the top of the float
valve to water level. Thankfully I can simply reuse all plexi
fittings i have already made, all i need do is cut new PVC,
should be back up in a day with MACH II

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dinos22

someone please explain to a n00b WTF is going on in this thread.....clearly it's not what i thought it was......nor Juan :p:

---

so wait a minute, we dont smoke outta these? :D

The joke is getting pretty old now fellas, if you want to know how they work, read the thread its all explained :-)

Well then, as explained earlier this afternoon I will be building a seperate
reservoir for the toilet float to fill the main tower, before this was done
I needed to modify the existing base of the tower. Here's how-->

http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp...ies_pic_21.jpg

Click here for full size pics

First thing tomorrow (possibly even this evening after a rest)
I will make a cyclinder up from pvc to house the float and
the plexi fittings, this should be a quick affair, fingers crossed
will be up and running again tomorrow afternoon :-)

I decided to venture out and get a start on the reservoir/float unit this
evening -->

http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp..._Res_Pic_1.jpg

Will rub it down first thing in the morning and paint it should be ready for a test late arvo I should think...

... Back with a running tower tomorrow :-)

Would there be much advantage to adding a small bong in series to a loop containing a 120.2 HC/Rad? I`m thinking along the lines of one deals with the main heatload in the water, and the other deals with that extra boost to remove the last bit of heat from the water. Is its worth persuing, would Rad-> Bong work best, and how would the pump fit in: I was thinking about taking the pump output as the feed to the bong coz it has most push at that point?

Pump-> Bong->Res-> block-> rad?

Res is part of bong

Ok so this is based on the same principle as the common cooling tower -

Warm to hot water is introduced into the top where it is dispersed or sprayed downward and falls through a rising column of air. It gets collected at the bottom and after a small portion evaporates it gives up considerable heat.

People keep these indoors? :eek:

If you've never seen a cooling tower just google it. Most designed can be shrunk down so a small fan (even 12 cm!) could be used. But it would have a lot of drift and be kind of noisy.

I suppose the long, narrow downdraft design of the so-called bong is efficient at induction (it certainly does wonders for marine protein skimming!) and will have less drift but in a dry atmosphere evaporation will still be high. Definitely need reserve if the system is going to be un-attended.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Rubycon

Definitely need reserve if the system is going to be un-attended.

---

This is the whole reason mine is using a float system and hooked to mains water, the water level will remain constant....fully automated. All explained in previous pages.

Unfortunately we had a 4 hour power outage today and I wasn't
able to paint the new resorvoir, I did manage to get it undercoated though
but lacked enough air in the compressor to hit it with black...shall get to it
tomorrow :-)

I did pick up some stainless steel scouring pads to place
ontop of the screen to stop any noise and will also
increase surface area --->

http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp...teelo_pads.jpg

Click here for fullsize pics

These will also act as a filter, any bugs that might happen
to make their way in through the top will stop before
reaching the base of the tower...

Anywayz...off for a beer back tomorrow fellas

Finished painting the reservoir this morning, shall let it dry this
afternoon and assemble later in the arvo.

I also slapped together a new 'shower head' from plexi to, I have tested
this already and the water drops straight down like | | instead
of the cone shaped fall / \ seen in the shower head, it has 45
holes, 5 more than the shower head, will be lit with 2x LEDS

http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp...ies_pic_22.jpg

click here for full size pics

Off to watch some One Day cricket action Aussies V England, will
be back with pics of the tower in action early this
evening....

OK then... think I have what a lot have been awaiting for :-P

SHE'S UP AND RUNNING http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp...viannen_28.gif

In my hast to connect it up (and get out of the heat earlier in the arvo)
I made the most noooooobish mistake...Hooked the reservoir up and blocked
off the outlet and inlet that will gotto pc, hooked up the shower head and
totally forgot to hook the bloody pipe to the outlet of the pump... :: waits
for readers to stop laughing :: HAHA... anywayz...as a result
POOOLS of water over the base and into the Thermaltake LCD...as a result shes
not working, has blue screen but no temp readings (actually got some
numbers up a few hours later all 888888's hopefully when she dries out
completely it will come good if not ill pop a new one in.

So then aside from that all went VERY well, I grabbed another digital temp
meter to get ambient and water readings, I let the tower run for
2 1/2 hours before taking readings to let the mains water warm up...here's some
pics of the tower in action and the temps it is producing -->

http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp...ies_pic_23.jpg

Click here for fullsize pics

Quite pleased with the temps, shall keep the tower on overnight
and check temps in the morning.

As you can see the LEDS at the top aren't connected and the
plexi brackets to hold the hose to the plexi pipe are still to be
made and fitted, both shall be done tomorrow, i will also
finish running mains water to under pc desk ready to move tower in...

Cheers for all the support and positive comments throughout
the build process, it went on longer than anticipated but then
these things usually do LOL ...It's always nice to come and
see people are appreciative of a your worklog and makes the effort
to do the log worthwhile... back in a few days with final update
hooked to pc and lit up like a Christmas tree...

Nice engeneering as usual! Looks really good and seems to work just fine.

6.5C below ambient is great.

Do you have any experience if the delta is always the same for very low and high ambient temps or does a bong work best in a certain temperature range?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Fr3ak

Nice engeneering as usual! Looks really good and seems to work just fine.

6.5C below ambient is great.

Do you have any experience if the delta is always the same for very low and high ambient temps or does a bong work best in a certain temperature range?

---

Thanks Fr3ak :-)

No, have no experience time will tell on both accounts here buddy. I would think we will probably see some differing performance depending on ambient temps. I would have thought warm weather would be the coolers better environment, evaporation would increase and thus cooling? That said, if the cooler is in for example 15 degrees ambient environment, results as fair as cooling goes will still be pretty good I believe, the cool air blowing onto the mesh would have to be effective one would think no ? Bit of a hybrid style tower really with the large stainless steel mesh inserted plus the whole evap thing going on with the falling water, basically covering all basis for best performance in all conditions....welll, thats the plan LOL

As said though time will tell, I like the tower for looks alone wheter it works well or not LOL is a nice aqddition to my pc desk IMO, I also forgot to mention, its now very very very quiet :-)

Wow this is one stylish bong!!!!!! Before in this thread I saw "all you need is PVC pipe" which obviously is ugly. I knew there could be an asthetically pleasing solution. And you have done it!!! Wow I really admire you, I've seen your stuff on the internet before I came here, and like its so awesome!!! Oh and I sent you a pm, btw...

Cheers serial...oh i use a bandsaw or dremel to cut plexi depending how much what shape etc....

Lil Update-->

Finished up a few little bits today, just a lil bling and a few brackets
to hold the pipe and top LED wiring in place, also drilled out the holes
a lil on the head to see if the flow increases, it didn't LoL
I think what i will do is make another head but larger diameter
than this one with same number of holes but spread out more
and see if this makes any noticeable difference, only takes
~40 minutes and is scrap plex so cost very little, all part of
'fine tuning' I guess. Anyhooo here's a few quick pics of the tid bits
it did today--->

http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp...es_pic_24b.jpg

Click here for fullsize pics

Shall have to wait till this evening when its dark to see how
effective the 2xultrabrights in the plexi head are... either way
One step closer :: wink ::

Back Soon...


p.s I have had the tower running for the last
2 hours, its 30.5 degrees in my workshop the
water in the tower is sitting on 24.6 degrees.
OH, my Thermaltake LCD sensor is working
again too Woot... I guess the larger holes
in the head unit haven't hurt the performance
any :-)

I wasn't entirely happy with the water flow through
the head after I enlarged the holes, the water was
falling to a 'point' like \ / and i thought I could
improve this with increasing the gap between the
holes and also ever so slightly angling the holes-->

http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp...ies_pic_26.jpg

Click here for fullsize pics

It worked brilliantly, the water remaining virtually the same
diameter at the bottom as it is where it leaves the head.

I also reminded myself how bad this camera is at night shots
compared to mine I lost a week ago :-( After adding the final
LED's to the tower I waited for the sun to set and tried to
take some pics for all to see, to say they look alot better
in person is as big an understatement I'm ever likely to
make, never the less here she is, will give you some idea-->

http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp...es_pic_25b.jpg

Click here for fullsize pics

I will have my mate I borrowed this camera off drop by with his
7MP camera once I have the tower installed inside on the pc
and get some high quality night shots...

Now I am happy with the look and performance of the tower
I shall finally get the mains line in tomorrow.

ciao for now

very impressive

i have to stick up photos of my bong coolers now

Cheers mate :-)

Would love to see more pics of coolers as I'm sure everyone else would
really helped me out browsing others designs before I built mine :-)

Was also wondering what has happened to Noob of L337 he posted back on page 4

Quote:

---

I've just finished glueing up my bongs peices. (5 feet, 4" id pipe) and its drying...

Pics are taken but will go up with the worklog.

---

But have seen nothing since ;-S Was curious to see what he come up with as he was the one that started this thread :-S

If there's a worklog anyone got a link to it?

In hindsight I should have started a new thread myself and done a seperate worklog ... I have got a worklog
of this Cooling Tower on other forums for those wishing to view it in its entirety from start to finish...

OZ Case Modz Sign up not required to view

OCAU Sign up required to view (free)

Should I copy the worklog to XTremeSystems and delete the entries from this thread ya think??

Good friend came around today and fitted the ceiling fan for me,
something I simply can't do i'm afraid...for those that aren't aware
I been confined to a wheelchair since 1991 due to motobike crash...so
anything out of arms reach, height wise is pretty much no go zone,
refer to it as 'ducks disease ie. ass too close to the ground' HAHAHA

As always pics-->

http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp...ies_pic_27.jpg

Click here for fullsize pics


liking' it more each time I see it slotted in place on my desk...sooooo
lookin' forward to havin it running and pissin' off the fans on my rad
currently in use...hrmmmm loooovely siiiilence hehehe...oh..cept
for PSU, keep an eye out for my next project 2X550WATT antec
TRUEPOWER 2.0's in custom enclosure linked AND watercooled :-P

We are currently running lines for mains...be back soon :-)

Sweet setup, looks really great. My desk is way more messed up lol

Your work is perfect. I never imagined you were doing all that sitting in a wheelchair. Now I understand when you said that if you could build one everyone could. I dont think thats the case. You did an excellent job and with high quality, I doubt that I could build something close to what you did.
Thumbs up! 10/10 stars. Couldnt be any better :)


The idea with the room fan is pretty good. Using it will get most of the wet air out I suppose. Now finally hook it up to your PC ;)

I like my work area well organised Fr3ak hehe... the building of the
tower really isnt difficult a little time and patience i think most people
could come up with similar result... :-)

Final Update

OK..results & final pics with better camera...

Firstly though, I have modified the unit again!

The inlet and outlet have been 're-organised',
it is now more 'traditional' tower setup, I
have taken the Hydor L30 off, runs on the Swiftech
MCP 655 solely, pumping water through cpu, gpu
and the evap tower, the temp is 2 degrees better
without the Hydor L30. A complete new bottom
was cut and the old plexi brackets re-used.

Ambient temp 23

CPU

idle 32-33
100% load 40-41

(on stock Conroe E6600 settings)

Water temp is pretty constant on 27 degrees whether
cpu is under load or idle... In comparison to the radiator
the idle temps are ~ the same, the load temps however
are 4-5 degrees better...combine this with the absence of
fans in my case ie. the silent factor, the whole project
has been a big success IMO

My best mate Snapperfish came up with his new 7MP digital
camera and we shot some final pics to end this worklog off...

http://myfoto.westnet.com.au/Photo/s..._final_pic.jpg

Click here for fullsize pics

Finally I would just like to take this opportunity
to once again thank all those that provided input, support
and praise throughout the building of this unit.

I do hope all that took the time to view/read my worklog gained
something from it... until next project it is-->

Ciao for now

AJ

Quote:

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Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337

Who said you can't lan with a bong?

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I've seen bongs at parties, but they weren't lan parties ^__-

On a more serious note: Sign me up for bongs. I'm going to try to build one. I want a small one that'll fit in a dorm room that'll cool a 320W TEC and a 437W TEC ...

How big was your bong that you used to cool the x2 437W TECs, NOL?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rubycon

Ok so this is based on the same principle as the common cooling tower -

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I think there's a subtlety though; cooling towers usually have extremely hot fluid entering...

This is downright amazing!!!

If I get a water softener in my house (water is hard... hard!), I might do this.

now i'm wondering if an air duckt made of alu or sumthing would eliminate the moisture to get into the "free air" but still cool it
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...bongdesign.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TTmodder

now i'm wondering if an air duckt made of alu or sumthing would eliminate the moisture to get into the "free air" but still cool it
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...bongdesign.jpg

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Wouldn't that make the design basically so that heat only transfers through the walls of the system, thereby making it little different from a radiator (only the internal workings would differ).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mcnbns

http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery2/m...ebe019e4d786d5

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Sorry to dig up an old topic but i am really thinking about having a laugh with the winter temps a coming and making a unit.

Something like the above be okay?

I don't see why this kind of thing isnt talked about more, pretty good bang for the $. Cold temps would make this pretty interesting, planning on trying one myself.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fujimitsu

I don't see why this kind of thing isnt talked about more, pretty good bang for the $. Cold temps would make this pretty interesting, planning on trying one myself.

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they aren't suited to ALOT of peoples situation

I have been using the system you see on previous pages in this thread since i built it without issue BUT it is a little more 'advanced' i guess for lack of better word than your 'average' run of the mill tower. Temps have remained constant since the day i started using it, i still have the original ($4) bottle of additive (Milton baby bottle cleaner) i first bought my blocks are still as clean as the day i made them to :-)

If you are able to vent out from the house you PC is in, are able to setup an auto fill management solution and dont move your pc around alot then YES by all means give the tower a shot, the performance of them craps on all radiators available.