Anyone know how to Vmod the board for more Vdimm and more Vdd ? (talking rev 1.2)
The Rev 1.2 is really great. But I need more Vdd :\
Edit: Sorry...asking stupid questions. Have found it now under...yes that's right...Vmod guides :rolleyes:
Printable View
Anyone know how to Vmod the board for more Vdimm and more Vdd ? (talking rev 1.2)
The Rev 1.2 is really great. But I need more Vdd :\
Edit: Sorry...asking stupid questions. Have found it now under...yes that's right...Vmod guides :rolleyes:
Hmm anyone tried this with a Barton cpu? I had a quick look in this topic - but couldn really find one... Normally this shouldn't do any harm - but you never know smth changed - just to be sure ;)
I'm not sure if this could fix the following prob:
When running my ram sync with fsb - RAM goes op to 354mhz (177mhz fsb) - when running async it locks up above 333mhz - doesn't even boot anymore
OK, so I stopped reading at page 4. :) So please shoot me if this has already been suggested.
What I wanted to suggest is burning the bridge with a 9V battery r something like that. This was done to break bridges on Thunderbird CPU's with a ceramic packaging, but I think this might work with these organic packages too. It certainly is a safer way to break the bridges, IF it were known to do no harm to the rest of the CPU.
Has anyone tried this?
Gr, SuSEQ
Yups - if you would have read just a bit further - you would have known :pQuote:
Originally posted by SuSEQ
blablabla
Has anyone tried this?
Gr, SuSEQ
PS: don't have that much posts here he? ;) :D
BANG! :DQuote:
Originally posted by SuSEQ
OK, so I stopped reading at page 4. :) So please shoot me if this has already been suggested.
:frag:
I have a Bartom 3000+ and I can run at 224x10.5 =2338.63mhz
445.45mhz DDR without the L12 cut. It runs Prime95 torture test
36hrs straight. I'm tempted to cut it to try for higher speed but
it's so stable now I hate doing it.
I get 3dmark score 16350
i always thought it was pretty funny when callers say that and since i never call i ni thought id use it in the forum.
ive seen success with abit and asus baords and i just ordered(get it Sat) asus a7n8x deluxe with a XP2200.
i already got the cpu and it seems the L1's are all closed so my question is will i need to do the L3 #5 bridge and if so what success have you guys had with the XP2200?
ive looked but have not seen much on this cpu.
will i be lucky to set it to its default X and fsb to 166?
i had gotten away from OC'ing till my new setup. last one was ap3 600 to 800.
guess thats what happens when kids come in the picture.
funny but this past week a friend said each child you have is not a multiple but is exponential in time away from hobbies, noise ect.
HAHA
true, so true
feels good to be involved again
peanstein
Howdy, this is interesting info. I have a KT400 chipset m/b the FIC AN19E, with the latest VMA46 BIOS which claims to fully support the FSB333 Barton chips. So I got me a 2500+, and it posted at 166 and ran fine for 5 or 6 hours. then the machine rebooted, and I can't even boot to dos at FSB of 333. I had to manually change the FSB to 266, and change the multiplier to 15x, so it now boots at 2004Mhz, and posts as a 2600+. I'm wondering if this mod would allow me to run the chip at it's proper settings without problems. But I must admit I am somewhat reluctant to cut me chip, at least until I've had a chance to see if it runs properly in a NForce2 m/b.
Meanwhile, thanks for the excellent info, and I'll report back once I've tried anything.
If it won't run at spec then there's either something wrong with the cpu or mobo. I wouldn't cut the bridge just in the hope of getting it to run at the speed it should, find out which part is faulty and get it replaced under warranty.
Remember, most of us have been doing this to get a 166fsb cpu to run at over 185. It works fine at stock speed.
I assume the rest of your system (ram, cooler, psu) is up to scratch?
Philster
My money goes on the FIC being the cause.
FIC= First In Crapolla
Well, my FIC is just a clone of the compariable Epox, since FIC makes the m/bs for them. Since I bought my first VA-503+ for my AMD K6-2 chip I've bought hundreds of them, and have only RMA'ed one in all that time. In that case, the client's rabbit smothered the machine, and it died from overheating.
In any case, I have fixed the problem. I replaced my 350w ps with a 400w, and the machine now boots up at the 333FSB just fine, and I've oc'ed it to 12x so it's running at 2000Mhz. I got the older ps at Fry's, and have never had a problem with it, running first a Athlon 1.2 in it originally, and since I've run a 1500+, 1700+, 1900+, 2100+ and 2200+ without any problem. But it appears it can't handle a Barton, go figure.
I put this "bad" 350w ps into a box with a Athlon 1.4 gig and power hungry SCSI subsystem, and that box has no trouble with it.
Now all I need is one of them there 400Mhz FSB Bartons......
Ok does that mean that mine 2200xp A-Core will be doing better? For @ it is stable at 2g right now but wont go higher it is on a Asus A7N8X at 211MHZ 211FSBX2 well if so I will cut the L12 let me know bs IAM confused sorry if this is a stupid Q
This fix is for cpus that run at a default fsb of 166, not 133 like your xp2200. The bridge is already cut on a 133 cpu.Quote:
Originally posted by Volcom
Ok does that mean that mine 2200xp A-Core will be doing better? For @ it is stable at 2g right now but wont go higher it is on a Asus A7N8X at 211MHZ 211FSBX2 well if so I will cut the L12 let me know bs IAM confused sorry if this is a stupid Q
Hmm still dont really know how to do the 9v battery trick... :(
Do i have to connect a wire to each of both the gold dots on top and below the bridges?
Pls somebody post some pics for me ;)
Yes. You'll need two fine probes to touch to the dots (some ppl use needles or a single strand of stiff wire), steady hands, and maybe a magnifying glass or similar to see what you're doing. You may need to give the dots a light rub with fine sandpaper first to ensure you get a good contact.Quote:
Originally posted by serialkiller
Hmm still dont really know how to do the 9v battery trick... :(
Do i have to connect a wire to each of both the gold dots on top and below the bridges?
I've not seen any pics anywhere but I hope that makes it clear enough. The two dots you want are the ones under the yellow arrow in the first post of this thread.
I have an interesting question for those of you who know more than me.
If the L12 connection for the 133 FSB chips ran:
Cut-Connected-Cut-Connected
and the 166 FSB chips L12 bridges ran:
Cut-Connected-Connected-Connected
and from what I see, the L12 on the 200FSB chips run
connected-connected-connected-connected.
Instead of cutting my 3rd L12 bridge to drop down to 133 so I can OC my XP3000 to 200FSB on a Rev 1.2 NF7-S, if I connect all the bridges, I should see 200FSB stock, yes? If so, will the 1.2 support 400 FSB?
I would think if that works, all I would have to do is lower my multiplier down from 12.5 to 11 to achieve 200 X 11.
Sound correct? Any thoughts?
I'll be interested in any feedback.
_________________
NF7-S rev 1.2 Flashed to beta 19 Bios, Nvidia Nforce 2.41 Drivers
XP 3000 Barton
CoolerMaster HSC-V62
512 x 2 Corsair TWINX1024-3200LL
2 x 80G Seagate Barracuda Serial ATA V Raid 0 with .28 drivers
1 x 40G Western Digital ATA 100
AIW 9700 Pro
Audigy Platinum
Lite On LTR 52246S
Interesting question, I don't know if anybody has tried this. I guess you're thinking that connecting bridges is easier (and safer) than cutting them?
There is an article here that says ABit officially support 200fsb cpu's on ALL versions of the NF7. Dunno whether that is true or not. But certainly they all seem able to run 133fsb cpus at 200+ without modifications, and I haven't heard of any problems with the 3200+ on the 1.2.
Please post your results if you try it! :D
Oh, and welcome to xtreme! :toast:
Generally, that is the point. I am not feeling very secure about cutting up my XP 3000. But I am also disappointed that I can not OC much higher than 185 FSB. Maybe I should just buy a rev 2.0 board, but it seems like a waste of money.
I have read about people using conductive paint or grease, any body have a brand recommendation as I am not familiar with either of these.
You can get a kit from here that comes with everything you'll need. http://www.highspeedpc.com Just search for xp unlocking kit.
Here's their guide for using the kit too http://www.highspeedpc.com/XPUnlocki...structions.htm
<ahref="http//www.beachlink.com/candjac/index.htm">Quote:
Originally posted by JohnnydinLA
I have an interesting question for those of you who know more than me.
If the L12 connection for the 133 FSB chips ran:
Cut-Connected-Cut-Connected
and the 166 FSB chips L12 bridges ran:
Cut-Connected-Connected-Connected
and from what I see, the L12 on the 200FSB chips run
connected-connected-connected-connected.
Instead of cutting my 3rd L12 bridge to drop down to 133 so I can OC my XP3000 to 200FSB on a Rev 1.2 NF7-S, if I connect all the bridges, I should see 200FSB stock, yes? If so, will the 1.2 support 400 FSB?
I would think if that works, all I would have to do is lower my multiplier down from 12.5 to 11 to achieve 200 X 11.
Sound correct? Any thoughts?
http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/index.htm</a>
Link to FSBSense article.
There you will find that the Code for the FSBSense info comes from the 1st and 3rd L12 bridges only.
Then you will also deduce that open/cut = HI and closed/connected = LO...which finally leads to some new info from your observation...that closed/closed, LO/LO for the 1st and 3rd bridges which was originally listed as "Reserved", is now probably the Code for 200MHz.
However...these are all "only codes" for the System Clock that the CPU was "designed" to be fed to its Multiplier module for the default Multiplier....the L12 code " does not" automatically select the System Clock. That is left to the mobo, it must be "designed to read the FSBSense code" and then to actually set the coded System Clock.
But if "your mobo" specs state compatibility with 200 MHz System Clock...and...you see some FSBSense/"auto-detect" related option in the bios, then we'd agree that you have a good chance of having "your mobo" boot at 200MHz with the closed/closed LO/LO setting of the 1st and 3rd L12s. (We would not touch the other L12s as they might relate to other/unknown functions).
But then again, you should also consider this thread which says you get better performance when the "code" is set for 133MHz, then the actual System Clock has been somehow able to be manually set to its "highest" value.
Hope this is informative/clarifies/helps.
John C.
Conductive paint is preferred, I use this but car defogger repair kit is fine. Comes off easily too if it doesn't work, but I think it will.Quote:
Originally posted by JohnnydinLA
I have read about people using conductive paint or grease, any body have a brand recommendation as I am not familiar with either of these.
I found a place that sells silver pens about 45 minutes from me. Won't be able to get there till Saturday. I'll post my results when completed.
Keep fingers crossed!
I cut the bridges on my Barton this morning because i too could'nt get it to run @ 200fsb stable.
I got a craft knife and magnifying glass a went about cutting the bridge, I cut the bridge and popped my cpu back in and hey presto now i can run it @ 200fsb stable:D
Thanks to Praetereo & Aceman for a great thread.
Is cutting the bridge still required when using an AbitNF7s 2.0 and a Barton 2500+? (latest bios, 14 afaik)
I cut my 2600+ for the older NF7, but if its not necesarry any more for fsbs around 230...
tia
No, it'll do just fine with the rev2.0 ;)Quote:
Originally posted by Hausmeister
Is cutting the bridge still required when using an AbitNF7s 2.0 and a Barton 2500+? (latest bios, 14 afaik)
ok, thx :)
I wanted to let everyone know not to do this mod w/NF7-S 2.0 and 2500 Barton after cutting the 3rd L12 bridge my pc would not boot only after reconecting the bridge did I boot up agian.
I was giving this mod a try because my mem bandwidth just plain sux's for the FSB I am running
to change a 133 to 166 fsb cpu all u need to do is pull FSB Sense 1 to low...
page 77 athlon XP model 8 data sheet
u should be able to do this mod on the cpu / socket .... just connect the AH30 pin to a nearby ground... AH28 would be a good choice
@Ragnarok:
Can u post a picture of this mod please ?
(my new 1700 has got the new layout)
greetz
Ok I want to make sure I am doing this right. I have a Barton 2500+ and a NF7S v1.2 board and hitting the wall at 197. What I want to do is make a horizontal cut between the contacts on the third row ( from left to right) on the L12 contacts. If I do something wrong or if it doesn't work, how do I reattach the contacts?
Thnx in advance
Brian, look at the image of the L12 bridges at the bottom of the post of Praetero, the guy who started this thread. That's the one you want.
But, after very much thread scanning, I would have to say that the reported success of this mod working on a Barton is basically zero. I would like the in-socket wire jumper equivalent to cutting the 3rd L12 if it exists which I'm not sure it does, so I may try this without modifying the chip.
And if anybody tries closing all L12's(200fsb), do report the results.
:comp10:
I didn't see where anybody actually tried this on a different chipset like the KT400 for instance thought the question has been asked. I have a feeling this may work on them as well. I may try it just to see. Can't be certain and it may be specific to the Nforce2, but that little voice is telling me no. I'm stuck at 180 I wonder if this may help?
>>>--Tiribulus-->:D
This may have been asked and answered deep within this post somewhere, but if you get a NF7-S Rev2.0 do you still need to cut the CPU bridge?? Or has a newere bios version fixed this also or both??
THanks
Lvcoyote
The answer may be on this page, look at cowpuppy's post. :)
It also works on Bartons, My bro was stuck at 225 on a rev1.2 and I finally conned him into cutting the L12 and hes doing 235 no probs.
As for the rev2.0's I was doing 235 FSB solid with a 2500+ w/o cutting the bridge so Im saying the rev2's are good to go outta the box. :)
Just another reason for me to go ahed and get the damn board......LOL!
Thanks for the replies guys!
Lvcoyote
I've had both. Running an Antec 550W TruePower (found this worked well with the 8rda+ as it doesn't use the ATX12V2 connector).Quote:
Originally posted by Svenn
Hate to Hijack the thread, but I'm looking at getting an NF7-S and I've got a question or two. First, has anyone tried both NF7-S and 8RDA+ and have any opinions either way? Second, as far as volt mods, the vcore I hear is easy but the vmem is hard. Anyone have links to either? Thanks and sorry again. Btw, great work Praetereo!
The 8rda+ v1.1 is not guaranteed to do 200fsb. The later NB had the A1 stepping, mine had the older A2 stepping. I used the same Barton 2500+ and PC3500 I have now in it and with a soldered vmod got to 215x11 at 2.025Vcore, 1.85Vdd and 2.90Vdimm. Before the vmod it would only do about 185fsb (old NB).
With watercooling I hit the overcurrent protection issue. Basically the Barton draws enough current at high fsb & multi to trip the current overload protection. There is a mod and it did work but at over 100 watts of thermal output the waterchill had problems.
I could, in winter, run at 215x11 2.025Vcore with an SLK900U and a Papst 80mm 40cfm fan.
8rda+ with waterchill taken on fitting.
http://www.adrenalin-junkie.net/pics...erchill002.jpg
The NF7-S v2.0 replaced the 8rda+. It's currently running 2xWD Raptors in RAID0 too. I'm currently running at 200x11 at 1.775Vcore as it's summer and the UK has a nice heatwave atm (37degC forcast tomorrow - hottest on record).
The NF7-Sv2.0 is guaranteed to do 200. It does easily and at lower power settings. I've had the NF7-S at 215x11, 220x11 too. A friend with vapo can get 230 but his NB isn't WC'd so it's not stable at that speed.
The NF7-S as it is now with waterchill:
http://www.adrenalin-junkie.net/pics/mods/DSCN0152.JPG
With the NF7-S I have only lapped the northbridge chip - I'm not worried about vmodding it yet. The guy with the vapo has pencil modded to 1.8Vdd - easy but the longer term solution is getting the soldering iron out.
So which out of the two? Well I have a soft spot for the poor old 8rda+ because of the amount of grief it's put up with - vmod, overcurrent mod, northbridge replacement, southbridge, mosfet heatsinks, even attempting to run the barton at 215x11 2.025Vcore and forgetting to plug in the HS fan (auto shutdown and the Barton is the same Barton I'm using right now).
However it's to choose between the two - it's the NF7-Sv2.0.
The new NB bridge, SATA RAID0 reduces the disk bottleneck.
unfortunately with your dragon lite you have a 1/4 pci dividerQuote:
Originally posted by Scottsman
This is my first post here so I'll try not to sound too stupid. I have an Athlon XP 2000+ (Palomino)
Soyo Dragon Lite KT333 MB
512 PC2700 Ram.
Whenever I overclock FSB above 142 I get blue screens and corrupt file mssgs. I tried upping vcore and locking dram at 133.
My CPU came with multiplier already unlocked and its set at 14X
Is this procedure possible and/or recommended for my system?
Thanks in advance
so 140 is about it as far as oc will go.i know its a little late,but
hope it helps.
Welcome to Xtreme Scottsman and wolverine! :D
:toast:
....i didnt have time to really figure out why, i had to go to the hospital and get 11 stitches on the area between my thumb and index finger...Hobby knifes are sharp...imagine that
Lol good thing you only did that. You cudda lorenasized urself.......... :D
It also looks like the 133 default is magic. Ive been trying to set my tbird to 133 default from its 100 to see just how high I can go on FSB. As it is, the same problem occurs as not going very high and this may be the answer. So....................... :D
I'm thoroughly confused. With the rev. 2 NF7-S, is it recommended that you cut the third L12 bridge of any 333MHz FSB chip for higher FSB? What about the reverse, connecting it on a 133MHz FSB chip? Would that result in a higher FSB overclock?
~THT
It also works on Bartons, My bro was stuck at 225 on a rev1.2 and I finally conned him into cutting the L12 and hes doing 235 no probs.
Actually I thought this was in reference to the older chipset revisions 1 and 1.2 where rev2 doesnt seem to be the same results........ :D
Hmm bit late to reply, but i find a scalpel a real handy tool when having to cut bridges :)Quote:
Originally posted by ]JR[
EDIT : cutting bridges with a scapel must be nearly impossible, remember the dremel incedents when trying to unlock xp2100s.
HI all, finally got round to reg.
A friend and myself have desided to build new machines, for extreme overclocking, we did our research, came up with the NF7-S as the best board for the job, the best cpu being the 2500+ Barton, people have had it clocked past the 3200+ mark. we are both putting in a waterchilled cooling system, the first prob my m8 had his name is Shim, was; he booted the machine up, with out the waterchill setup, as it is still to arrive from denmark, and it booted fine, he went into the bios, and to look at the setup and save it, the system restarted, and amessage flashed up, without looking he turn the machine off, and hasn't been able to boot since, has any one any ideas, try all the troubleshooting stuff at the back, tried diffeent ram and cpu still the same prob, has he damaged the mobo.
our specs are as follows
Skims: Anteck Piano Black case, NF7-s Mobo, 2500+ barton, Geforce4 4600, aero7 cooler (untill the waterchill arrives) 512 PC3200 DDR unbranded. 36Gb raptor sata
Mine: Acrylic DIY transperent case Blue tint, NF7-s 2500+ barton, gf4 4600, Zelmane Flower Cooler (untill the waterchill arrives) 36gb raptor sata, 120gb barracuda sata, 512 pc2700 DDR (untill the OCZ 3200 dual 1Gb arrives). mine boots fine! but i waited till the message dissapeard, which said DO NOT TURN OFF.
thanks for your help
silentrunner: When you shut down the system while it's flashing the bios, the bios chip probably won't work anymore. All you have to do is:
-Take his bios chip out
-Start your system into the bios flash menu
-Get your chip out, put his in
-flash the bios
After you've done this, his chip should work back and his system should boot.
Try clearing your CMOS jumpers before you hotflash the bios as above post suggests. The NF7 displays a do not turn off message after you change bios settings. Clearing the CMOS might be all that is needed.
Lol, didn't even thought about it :)Quote:
Originally posted by TheDude
Try clearing your CMOS jumpers before you hotflash the bios as above post suggests. The NF7 displays a do not turn off message after you change bios settings. Clearing the CMOS might be all that is needed.
offtopic: @theDude: some months ago you were planning to make a direct die wc. How did it end up? :)
thanks for the reply, try that with no joy, well what i did was, first went in to the cmos, and replaced chips and went to save the ssytem would reboot, put my chip back in and the system booted, next tried flashing the bios from floppy, latest version, to no avail, my chip wont allow skims machine to boot ether
any ideas
dont need to worry, redid the hot bios reflash and the system is now working, thanks to all, will keep you all posted when the waterchill goes online, by the way the first thing i did was clear cmos, thanks again for the help
I got it working but stopped for a couple of back surgeries...will pick back up on it when I have more time. It's fun but not very practical for every day use.Quote:
Originally posted by Tettejaak
Lol, didn't even thought about it :)
offtopic: @theDude: some months ago you were planning to make a direct die wc. How did it end up? :)
Hi All
have my waterchill system up and running, i have a NF7-S mobo with a 2500 barton, have it clocked to 2.6ghz, but want to know what is a safe voltage to keep the core at, that is is the voltage ok up high if the cpu temp is low, present temp is sitting between 41 on ide and 50 working, the system is 218FSB at 12x multiplier, at 2.1v, cant get the FSB above 219, but do have new ram comming OCZ 3700 dual 1Ghz,
Thanks
silentRunner
This happens with my a7n8x too.Quote:
Originally posted by DaGooch
This is very similar to my 166MHz XP2600+ chip on an Epox 8RDA+. I can not run high FSB and will always crash entering windows with the 166FSB jumper on past 190MHz. I take the jumper off and the chip defaults to a XP2000+ and maximum stable FSB of 225MHz with ease.
NF7-s does have this jumper, too?
hum... this is a very interesting thread. im running a 2600(none barton core) 333 chip with an abit nf7's v2 using the orrigional bios that came with the board. (volt modded by mr.zee) and my 2600 with out blowing or cutting any of the L12 bridges hits much above the 200 fsb mark... benchen i usually have my overclock set at. 11x 220ish (depending on how cold my computer is). The only weird the only weird thing with my 2600 is havving is; it has issues some times. meaning. some times im able to run 10.5x 232 (prime for overclocking) but as of lately i can only run at 11x220ish which is weird not to mention makeing me mad because 10.5x232 was prime stable untill i tryed a little more overclock then bomb clear ccmos. and i was never able to get that good of an overclock again. it's ok though hopefully my next rig (an7 2800barton watercooled) will have more luck. GREAT FIND though
id check the posts on the an7 first and wait till they get all theQuote:
Originally posted by thetruememphis
hum... it's ok though hopefully my next rig (an7 2800barton watercooled) will have more luck. GREAT FIND though
problems sorted out first.a lot of the mobos have been hand modified to fix obvious problems.
whussup yall?
i got a Barton 2800+ that can do about 220fsb and then any higher it startz crappin out on me. so i got a question does this L12 mod work on Bartons? or anyone try yet at least? and ive modded a few thingz in my time, but havent modded a cpu before, so just to make shure i got this down: black mark = closed, no black mark = open? or the other way around? thanx much!
oh and i still got a EPoX 8RDA3+ right now, havent gotten my AN7 yet. hopin i get a decent one :-\
Hi Guys, got my machine now running at 215 FSB & 12 on the multipler, can anyone give me some pionters on where to start with the memory timing. Thanks
Welcome to Xtreme dazzal! :D
:toast:
What are your current memory timings? Do you know if that's BH-5 ram? Have you done any voltage mods? Which PSU do you use?
Sorry for all the questions, but this info will help. ;)
Thanks for the welcome.
Here goes then;
Memory 2 x TWINMOS PC3200 512MB DDR400 CL2.5 OEM
CPU core 1.7
DDR SDRAM 2.9
Chipset Voltage 1.7
AGP Voltage 1.6
Memory timings
OPT set row delay 9
RAS to CAS act delay 4
Row precharge delay 4
CAS latency time 9
Power supply Advance CWT-375ATX 375 w
Hope this helps.
Thanks
emmm... if this NF7-S problem is da mater off dat.... Processor ID thing....
nice discovery... will look into it later
cheers:toast:
ok i just modded D22
i disable processor id except i left 3200+ ID only n i disable multi 17,18,19,20,21,22,23,24
yup... it post fine n load to win xp... but dat multi 10 n 10.5 issue still there
so i assume this prob come from nvidia it self... nvidia BPL Bios version
Pics not working, wanna try this mod when i finsih waterchiller.
hey guys,
i've got an A7N8X Rev2, Bios 1007, with Barton 2500 and Crucial PC3200 Ram (2x512).
oh ya, and i have a Prommie Mach 1 chilling to cputemp -3.
i have tried setting jumper to 100 and cpu posts @ 1100 default etc etc, but i still hit the 200mhz fsb wall. i've tried low multipliers slow mem speeds etc etc, and no luck. also, my multiplier tops at 12.5 both ways.
will cutting L12/3 help if jumper is still leaving me @ same place? any suggestions? i'd prefer a higher fsb, but would settle for higher multiplier.
thx
Have a abit NF7-s good board with a 2500 barton, with the L12 bridge cut, i have a water chilled system with a GF4 Ti4600, and OCZ 3700 ddr duel 1ghz, but want a change want a athlon 64 3200 but the inportant question is - what mobo to go with for overclocking any ideas.
not much reponce yet, how ever had a last ditc attempt to see if i could overclock the machine again and keep it stable, the two month burn in must have done it good, 'cause she is sitting at 2.42ghz stable as F*** with is gd for a OC beginner, but it wasn't clean saliling, before the L12 bridge was cut could get the FSB above 215 but when i cut it i am only getting a 222 not much of a difference, but hey. the settings are as follows, so if there are any ideas on how to increase it let me know
FSB 222 at 11x multi
cpu Core V = 2.06v
ddr core v = 2.7
chipset V = 1.7
AGP V = 1.6
CPU running at 2442MHz
Memory timings are
10, 4, 4, 3.0
with is the optimal setting for the abit NF7-s V2 mobo
please help away
i solved my problems discussed at the end of this thread..
http://discuss.futuremark.com/forum/...371833&fpart=3
PS I am username "Potent" on that forum...
removed the sticky, thread will remain here but its time to move on and make room for more recent and actual stickies
Another solution is this RAM:
Patriot PDC1G3200+XBLK 1GB Kit DDR400 PC3200
Mine runs 246 MHz now -- better than my BH-5!