Water Cooling questions

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Good luck!

Remember, after flashing...always power down, clear cmos and unplug your pc...some even like to remove their cmos battery completely although I don't.

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why should I do all that?
I just reseted the PC and reseted BIOS to Optimized Default and turned off the PC and PSU to remove floppy.
Is that good enough?

Afther BIOS update, Windows instaled successfully :woot:
Right now Im downloading drivers and programs I may need.

What are the programs that you guys use to setup timmings on RAM, view temps, stress the CPU, and other stuff on windows?
I only know I should download 3Dmark05 and Aquamark03.
What else should I download?

Please list a group of programs and give a small definition of what they do.

Turok

You should do all I said because it properly refreshes the bios, it's just made and will lead to more stable operation and overclocking sometimes.

You set up ram timings in bios, you can tweak them in windows witn A64 Tweaker, but they won't stick on reboot.

For temps/volts view, use the smart guardian utility that came with your mobo.

Other programs, Prime 95 for cpu/ram stress testing. Super Pi for basic ram stability and comparison, 3DMark 01, 03, 05 for graphics and cpu. Sandra 2005 SR1 for everything. Everest for ram. And, I think I'm missing some stuff, but those are the major ones.

Im almost done. Only waiting for the following to ship: the mouse, mouse pad for this PC and the monitor and wireless PCI for the old PC.
Im also getting my Xbox hooked on my PC with the Advanced AV cable that lets me connect S-video and Digital Audio. Ill hook it up with my x850xt VIVO and my z-5500 5.1 speakers.

Everything is looking very nice:), but Im having a few problems :(

Ive noticed that one of my fans is under votled because SpeedFan shows really low RPMs compared to the other fans that are exactly the same. I can also see that the red LEDs glow less than the others and the airflow is also weaker.

Another problem is that my Deck red LED keyboard isnt too acurate. I think it has the same problem that the fan has. It may be lacking power because when I have the lights at the brightest, its less acurate when I have the lights off. Even tho with the lights off, its still a bit inacurate and some buttons fail to the touch.

Is my mobo lacking power?
should I connect the SLI power?
is there a way to increase my fan and USB voltage?
or is it just that my PSU is not enough?

Its probably pulling too much power from your USB ports. Try a powered USB hub.


The fan might be pulling too much from the fan header and its voltage controller, try powering it from a different header (one that cant control the RPM's of a fan) or to your PSU directly in case its pulling too much power (which could burn out a header).

Important to know, plugging fans into the motherboard can cause instability if they are 12v fans as they rob power from the mobo itself.

The fans are those Xoxide 80mm aluminum red LED fans:
http://www.xoxide.com/xoalledfanr.html

It might be that, that the fans are hogging power.
I have one fan connected on the top of the case and it hooks up on the verry top left of the mobo
The other fan (the one with speed problems) is connected below that fan (so both fans are on the left side of the DIMMs
I have the USB connected below the firewire at the bottom.

If you look at the distance between the fans and the USB port, they are kinda close
Im guessing that the top fan is hogging all the power and the power is being shared by the bottom fan and part of the USB.

I know how to reduce the fan speed with SpeedFan on each individual fan.

with this in mind, should I plug the usb below the second ethernet plug?
I also set up "USB recognition" on the BIOS. Could this be infolved in voltage control?
I dont nknow what to do with the fans, but these are the specs:

LED Fan
Dimensions 80x80x25mm (LxWxH)
Rated speed 2500 RPM
Noise Level 27.39 dBA
Air Flow 30.24 CFM
Current (Amps) 0.16 Amps
Connector 4 pin pass-through molex
Features 4 LEDs

SpeedFan says:
Fan 1: 800-900 RPM
Fan 2: 2500 RPM
Fan 3: 4200 RPM

Im only using 4 of the 3pin connectors on the mobo
These are the fans:
2x Xoxide red LED fans
1x DFI chipset fan
1x 3pin connector from the PSU connected on the bottom right of the mobo

I think Fan 1 is the PSU fan because its more silent and slower
I think the Fan 3 is the Xoxide fan thats hogging all the power. As specs say, default RPMs is 2500 RPM

What do you guys think the problem could be?
I will try some of this stuff afther I get back form school today.

Turok

the USB and fan headers do not share power.

The fan headers control voltage to the fans through a small voltage controller which could be getting overloaded by the fans and LED's. The LED's will not be recieving full voltage (and will therefore be dim) if the fan header is being limited to make the fans spin slower also.

Ive noticed that when scanning with Super-PI, It sometimes differentiates by 1 second. It got 1 sec. slower today. Yesterday I was installing drivers and games.

Are background files slowing my PC?
I always have Xfire and sometimes MSN open.
I have the windows firewall on for now. Ill replace it soon.
Could one of these background files slow down my performance?

I disabled the USB keyboard recognizer on my BIOS and havent had problems yet on CSS with the LEDs on. Need to play more to see if it fails to a command.

What do I do to solve the fan problem?

attach them to an external power source (ie: PSU molexes) or fan controller.

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Originally Posted by Turok

Ive noticed that when scanning with Super-PI, It sometimes differentiates by 1 second. It got 1 sec. slower today. Yesterday I was installing drivers and games.

Are background files slowing my PC?
I always have Xfire and sometimes MSN open.
I have the windows firewall on for now. Ill replace it soon.
Could one of these background files slow down my performance?

I disabled the USB keyboard recognizer on my BIOS and havent had problems yet on CSS with the LEDs on. Need to play more to see if it fails to a command.

What do I do to solve the fan problem?

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Whenever you benchmark, disable virus/spyware scan software, close all chat programs like xfire, msn and aim, and close anything else you can.

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Originally Posted by EnJoY

Whenever you benchmark, disable virus/spyware scan software, close all chat programs like xfire, msn and aim, and close anything else you can.

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I uninstaled the nVidia Firewall because it was a pain in the back.
I got back by second afther that. I also deleted the QuickTime auto run program from "msconfig"

Ill close everything when benchmarking then. Good thing is that I can see the difference in peformance afther adding the usual background programs.

I dont want to use a exterior power sorce for just a fan.
Is the ptoblem because the fan is being controlled automatically by the mobo, or would it be a problem on the fan?
Since the yellow cable on the 3pin connector gives info on the fan, would unplugging that pin fix the problem, or is it something on the mobo's power setting?

Ill try switching pins on the two fans to see what happens

BTW. Im getting 31 - 33 C at Idle and 37 - 38 C on Load
Are these temps right?
I still think I should get lower temps. At least 35 C at load.

Turok

Your load if that really is your max is pretty good, it seems your idle temp good be a lot lower, like around 28c, you must have mediocre airflow in your case.

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Originally Posted by EnJoY

Your load if that really is your max is pretty good, it seems your idle temp good be a lot lower, like around 28c, you must have mediocre airflow in your case.

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The Xoxide fans dont push much air. The case gets hot inside, so airflow may be an issue.

I think I solved the fan problem. I was unplugging the fans and found that the pins on the fan with high RPMs had the pins a bit loose. I took out the pins and placed them back in and RPMs went from 4200 to 3100.
I guess when I was sleeving it, I didnt make sure it was hooked properly

I get problem afther problem.
I have a dedicated CD-ROM and a dedicatred DVD-ROM. Each one is the fastest and most silent of its class.
Im getting problems with the CD-ROM.

The CD-ROM is a 56x Artec drive, and the problem is that when I put a CD and it sarts to read it my system hangs until I remove the CD and its not reading anything.
I also tried it outside Windows (in the BIOS) and it hanged. Had to reset the PC.
Went to the Artec site and found flash drivers (didnt know you could flash CD drives, lol :D)
Have'nt done anything except changing both drives to Cable Select.

Anyone got a clue?

Turok

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Originally Posted by Turok

ok, I decided go to with the MX 518.
You where right EnJoY, the MX 518 is way better :up:
The only disadvantage I see on the MX 518 is the cord, but anywait its long and light enough to leave a trail of cable on the front for spontanious mobility.

Im thinking on updating to a larger Xtrac mouse pad.
Im thinking on getting the Xtrac Ripper XL because it matches my black theme and its huge.

I have a question
What are the advantages and disadvantages of having:
1) A thin, flexible, smooth cloth (plastic I think) + MX 518
2) A hard, flat, smooth surface + wax + MX 518

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Do you like it? I am getting both the MX1000 and the MX518, costs a pretty penny, but it is worth it, one for general use such as web browsing etc., relaxed gaming a.k.a. when Yan gets tired and cords bother him/me, and then te Logitech Flagship MX518, for all my FPS games (COD MP, play time, 1200 hours :)).

Yan

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Originally Posted by YanBooth

Do you like it? I am getting both the MX1000 and the MX518, costs a pretty penny, but it is worth it, one for general use such as web browsing etc., relaxed gaming a.k.a. when Yan gets tired and cords bother him/me, and then te Logitech Flagship MX518, for all my FPS games (COD MP, play time, 1200 hours :)).

Yan

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I dont have the MX 518 yet.
Got it from newegg.com and FedEx says estimate date is 26, but Im guessing it will get here a day before. When I ordered the mouse, I also ordered a Xtrac ripper of 17" x 14", and PCI card and a NEC FE992sb (19" CRT) for the other PC.
The other PC is using the MX 1k. This PC (my build) will be using the MX 518. I wouldnt buy a MX 1k if the cord is light enough. The MX518 is $20 cheaper and you could get a nice Xtrac mouse pad and it = a MX 1k.

I will post when I get my mouse

BTW everyone
Since there is a Catalyst 64 bit, Far Cry 64 bit, and a Windows XP pro 64 bit update, should I update my Win XP pro to the free 64 bit update?
Will this update require a reformat?

Also, anyone know how to fix my CD-ROM problem that I posted above?

Turok

I don't know about the CD ROM, sorry.

I plan on the 64 bit, but rumoe has it that it very unstable, and most/all drivers don't work with. That should be fixed soon enought though.

Yan

Win64 offers worse performance in most games than Win32 at the present time.

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Originally Posted by YanBooth

I don't know about the CD ROM, sorry.

I plan on the 64 bit, but rumoe has it that it very unstable, and most/all drivers don't work with. That should be fixed soon enought though.

Yan

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I guess Ill wait for Longhorn

I found out that my Deck keyboard is sc%$@ed up. When Im playing games like CSS, pressing a group of keys will make other keys stop responding.
One of the commands that I figured out was that when Im walking diagonally, I cant reload. Im guessing some of the keys are not linked properly causing some keys to fail, because other keys cut them off.
I emailed deckkeyboards.com today to see what they say.

Now I have 2 problems.
The CD-ROM that hangs my system, and the faulty Deck Keyboard that costed $125 (S&H included) :mad:
I recommend their keyboards, but only if they work :nono::slapass:

I also emailed Artec yesterday. Havent got a reply yet.

Finally, my PC is finished :D

:YIPPIE:
:party::bounces::banana::banana:

I will take pics and show a bit my progress.

I finally solved the CD-ROM problem. Was kinda stupid.
I just inserted a CD and I let it load the CD. It took really long, like 15 min to finish.
Afther it finished, I was able to use it normally.
I guess windows was taking time to recognize the CD-ROM :rolleyes:

I still have the Deck Keyboard problem :mad:
I sent a email to customer service about 3 days ago and havent got a reply. :nono::slapass: I ended up subscribing to the forums to see if someone from Deck Keyboards can tell me what to do.

About the MX 518, EnJoY was right. This mouse feels like it has a stronger signal (because its wired to USB), and has more acuracy.
YanBooth. Buy a MX 518. Its 2/3 the price of a logitech MX 1k and the best thing is that you dont have to recharge the thing.
Latter on if Im too bored, I could try a LED mod on it :D
You cant do that on wireless mouses because the LEDs would eat up all the battery.
I dont see the cable as an anoyance. Its light enoug to glide arround. I recommend the Xtrac mouse pads, but if you want a more glidable surface, then get a hard surface. I think it glides really good on the silky smooth surface of the Xtrac mouse pads.

Here is a pic of the Xtrac Pro from my old PC and the Xtrac Ripple XL for my new PC (largest mouse pad from Xtrac). Next to the two mouse pads is the MX 518. I put the mouse there so you can extimate how big these mouse pads are.
http://img16.echo.cx/img16/9561/xtrac5hs.jpg

If you want a image comparison of the MX 1k vs MX 518, just tell me.

Turok

watercooling... mouse pads.... im so lost...

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Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer

watercooling... mouse pads.... im so lost...

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Sry for going off topic with all the PC parts :D
The mouse was a question from YanBooth.

Right now Im getting 32 - 33 Idle. and I changed the position of the core.
Any tips to lower my temps?

Im going to try to rais the voltage of the fans by controlling the mobo

uh if ur powring ur fans from the mobo.. DONT. its a bad idea.. the mobo runs less stable when u do that and is more likely to fry it if ur running 120mm fans on it. they arnt designed for it.

well what exactly is ur setup. if u let me know i might be able to think of something ot improve performance without spending money but the differences in performance are most likely miniscule.

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Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer

uh if ur powring ur fans from the mobo.. DONT. its a bad idea.. the mobo runs less stable when u do that and is more likely to fry it if ur running 120mm fans on it. they arnt designed for it.

well what exactly is ur setup. if u let me know i might be able to think of something ot improve performance without spending money but the differences in performance are most likely miniscule.

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Here is the WC setup:

Pump: AX 50z + 1/2 OD fittings
WB: TDX w/ brass top and #4 nuzzle
Core: Weapon Monster core x shroud
Core Fans: 4x SanAce fans 120mm x 32mm (powered by a individual PSU)
Tubes: Tygon 7/16" ID
Fluid: Distilled + Zerex
Using a T line for filling

The length of the tubes used in the loop is about 6' 2" (this does not include T line)

You can see the PC specs below on my signature

The fans used in the case are 4x Xoxide red LED Aluminum fans. They have a very low airflow of about 20 CFM. The 2 exaust (top and back) are connected to the mobo, and there are 2 in the front right next to each other, they are the intake. They connect to the fan controller from the case and then to a 4pin cable. The front fans are set to the highest speed. The case fans are 80mm x 25mm

I like the deep red color on these fans, but they are pissing me off with their cr***y peformance.
Anyone know a really good red LED aluminum fan or just a red LED fan that peforms really well?

well as far as cooling the water goes u cant get it much cooler as u have the biggest rad on the US market.

yah.. dont see any way to get it cooler. possibly placing ur rad in front of an air conditioning vent or something.

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Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer

well as far as cooling the water goes u cant get it much cooler as u have the biggest rad on the US market.

yah.. dont see any way to get it cooler. possibly placing ur rad in front of an air conditioning vent or something.

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Are these temps normal for the kind of setup I have?

I think the tubes are heating up inside my case.
Ill try opening the side pannel to see if temps drop. That way I can see if its really the case temps

How about some pics for a change? ;)

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Originally Posted by tinker77

How about some pics for a change? ;)

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Allright :D

Im going to start the gallery

Going to Instal Photoshop CS on my new PC so I can start editing my images if they look bad.

ur temps are pretty normal from what i can see. u cant exactly trust the cpu for good temps (i tested my 3000 winnie and it was reporting temps 25C above what they should be)

Turok, if you wanna lower your temps, I'd honestly reccomend getting another 50z to run in series. With a monster core outside the case, that much tubing and tdx, you could use the extra pumping power.

Btw, I told you to trust me on the mouse and surface, aren't ya glad you did? There is no better combo than the MX518 and a large smooth gaming pad. Max hates hard pads and other mice suck. :P

I'm upgrading from my MX510 soon cause I've had it for awhile. Gonna get the MX518 and the SteelPad QCT+.

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Originally Posted by EnJoY

Turok, if you wanna lower your temps, I'd honestly reccomend getting another 50z to run in series. With a monster core outside the case, that much tubing and tdx, you could use the extra pumping power.

Btw, I told you to trust me on the mouse and surface, aren't ya glad you did? There is no better combo than the MX518 and a large smooth gaming pad. Max hates hard pads and other mice suck. :P

I'm upgrading from my MX510 soon cause I've had it for awhile. Gonna get the MX518 and the SteelPad QCT+.

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Yep, verry nice "indeed" :D

Im done resizing all my images to small GIF images. The total is 47 images. Im going to group each category of images as one larger image so I dont have to link 47 images from Imageshack :P
The images are kinda small, so some details cant be seen. If anyone wants a more detailed image of a certain pick, I can give a "less smaller" resize of the original.

Ill be done tommorow (May 26, 2005) with the gallery and then ill post it in another thread and link this thread to the gallery

About the pump, I want to be able to fit the pump in the space where 3x 3.5" slots go on my lian-li PC-65.
I may think about changeing my pump or updating to dual when I get my GPU waterblock.
Whats better? A dual AX 50z or a high peformance Iwaki pump? Also, which solution heats the water the most?

Right now, since this is my first WC solution, I want to get a bit of practice with what I have now :)

BTW, I switched the monster core's position (as I said before). It was horizontally standing up with the tubes on the right side, and now its standing up vertically with the tubes on the top. I noticed bubbles releasing from the core, so it still has some empty spots. If I leave the core in different positions, will it release all the air inside and probably increase peformance?

Turok

Ok guys, my gallery is done
Check it out :rocker:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...473#post882473

Iwaki MD20RZT will give overall better performan than two 50z's at 12v's. However, if you can feed the 50z's 13.8volts they will slightly outperform the iwaki. Dual 50z's will give very close to the same heat dump as an Iwaki MD20, about 5watts less if that, but the Iwaki obviously is a bit more powerful as I said and it's also less hassle than hooking up too pumps.

Hmmmmmm... All I can think of is the future. What will I upgrade next? :D
I was thinking about the GPU block upgrade, and would it be a good Idea to upgrade to a pertlier solutioninstead of just a GPU block?
Since I aleady have the TDX block for my CPU, can I just put a sheet of pertlier and put it directly in between the block and the CPU or do I need a copper sheet of some mm thick between the pertlier and the CPU?

What would be the conditions besides having a external power sorce?
I understand I have to have insolation and all that stuff, but I would like more details about that

If I can, I would go from my first WC solution to my first T.E.C. solution in a snap :D

What is your CPU temp Turok ?

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Originally Posted by Turok

Hmmmmmm... All I can think of is the future. What will I upgrade next? :D
I was thinking about the GPU block upgrade, and would it be a good Idea to upgrade to a pertlier solutioninstead of just a GPU block?
Since I aleady have the TDX block for my CPU, can I just put a sheet of pertlier and put it directly in between the block and the CPU or do I need a copper sheet of some mm thick between the pertlier and the CPU?

What would be the conditions besides having a external power sorce?
I understand I have to have insolation and all that stuff, but I would like more details about that

If I can, I would go from my first WC solution to my first T.E.C. solution in a snap :D

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At first I was planning on going regular water cooling, I even bought a TDX and Fusion HL, but then I saw how much lower temps were with TEC's, I decided to sell those blocks and go straight to TEC's.

No, you can't just put a Pelt on your TDX. First of all, it wouldn't perform well at all, the TDX isn't optimized for cooling a pelt, its optimized for cooling a CPU. Second, putting a Pelt straight on a CPU would probably kill it or at least crash the computer. The temp of the pelt constantly changes, sometimes by large amounts, and having a copper cold plate between the CPU and pelt creates a buffer zone. All of these temperature changes won't be transferred directly to the CPU.

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Originally Posted by HiJon89

At first I was planning on going regular water cooling, I even bought a TDX and Fusion HL, but then I saw how much lower temps were with TEC's, I decided to sell those blocks and go straight to TEC's.

No, you can't just put a Pelt on your TDX. First of all, it wouldn't perform well at all, the TDX isn't optimized for cooling a pelt, its optimized for cooling a CPU. Second, putting a Pelt straight on a CPU would probably kill it or at least crash the computer. The temp of the pelt constantly changes, sometimes by large amounts, and having a copper cold plate between the CPU and pelt creates a buffer zone. All of these temperature changes won't be transferred directly to the CPU.

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I see...

My temps are 31-33 C Idle and 38 C Load.
This is only cooling the CPU

I got a quick question about the Creative EAX sound settings on my Audigy 2 ZS.
When im playing Halo for PC, and Im constantly shooting with the Ghost (the small hover craft) I get these click sounds.
I dont know if thats part of the effect or if they are pops caused by sound effects.
I have the sound filter on. Ive noticed when Im listening to music wile I set up the filter, I loose sound quality.
I have the sound filter on and the clock filter to the max but I still hear that clocking sound when I shoot.
Im guessing its part of the sound effect

I would like to know if the EAX sound filter is worth it wile Im playing games since some games use high quality sound that may not have deffects on them.

Turok

I dont know if this is worth mentioning but i know alot of ppl who had sound issues with halo for PC including myself. and this was with a range of cards. the game is just buggy.

I have a question

I usually have the UV light on, and I have one of the two on the side pannel next to the exaust fan on the back of my case. Because of this, I can see it wenever Im sitting in my desk.

My question is, is it harmfull to have the UV light on, or are these PC lights too weak to cause any harm?

My light set is a Vantec Dual CC UV lights 12"

harmfull to what?

Harmful to humans. UV=Radiation

Depends on how strong the UV rays are, I am no expert however.

Yan

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Originally Posted by STEvil

harmfull to what?

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Skin cancer, skin damage, eyes damage, premature ageing, etc.

Found these problems by googling about UV light risk.
I dont know much how UV lights really work, so I dont know if its another type or another strength of UV that causes these problems.
Someone who knows, please help

uv rays in large amounts cause cancer... but these little uv lights i have no idea about. might contact the manufacture and ask them if long term close exposure is harmful in anyway.

http://www.who.int/uv/en/

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Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is part of the electromagnetic spectrum emitted by the sun. Whereas UVC rays (wavelengths of 100-280 nm) are absorbed by the atmospheric ozone, most radiation in the UVA range (315-400 nm) and about 10 % of the UVB rays (280-315 nm) reach the Earth’s surface. Both UVA and UVB are of major importance to human health.

Small amounts of UV are essential for the production of vitamin D in people, yet overexposure may result in acute and chronic health effects on the skin, eye and immune system.

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Bolded the important part. Look up the specs on your UV light.. then look up what is considered a "healthy" amount and what amount is considered bad. Probably want to take the numbers given with a grain of salt.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by STEvil

http://www.who.int/uv/en/



Bolded the important part. Look up the specs on your UV light.. then look up what is considered a "healthy" amount and what amount is considered bad. Probably want to take the numbers given with a grain of salt.

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Thanks STEvil

These are my UV CC specs:

Output Voltage: 0V~580V
Output Current: 5.00 + 0.03 mA
Optimal Wattage: Up to 2.9 Watts
Outline Dimension: 323 mm
Luminance: 5800 nit
Life: 15000 hours



Specs dont say the range of absorption.
Could be enough to just use LEDs as a reference

Well, I am sure that having it too visible to your eyess can't be too good...
Yan

I cant find any info on recommended maximum or minimum exposure values.. but i'd assume to be saleable that your light is within some sort of guideline..

Flourescent lights among other things emit UV radiation..

Thats why I never use CRT's... They put out a massive amount of radiation.

Yan

i'm being bathed by a 22" sony tube.. i'm fine (mostly)


;) :D

Thanks a lot guys.
I also dont have problems with my 19" CRT, except when Im not playing games.
Its too bright on white windows, but its ok. If I had > $500 on my disposal, I could buy a top notch 19" or 22" LCD to go easy on my eyes

Hmmmmm...

I was looking at some LCD monitors, and when I see the specs, they look a bit tempting to buy :slobber:

Whats the response time where you cant notice ghosting at all?
Is it 8ms or less, or can it be a bit higher?

Are these the best monitors of today and are they worth buying?

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
ViewSonic VX924
http://images10.newegg.com/productim...116-355-15.JPG

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16824116355

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SCEPTRE X9g-Naga III
http://images10.newegg.com/productim...112-164-11.JPG

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16824112164
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EDIT: I posted this question in the General Hardware section. A response is not necessary


Turok

Looks like my x850xt is overheating at stock. These stock fans suck :nono:

Was playing Halo on PC for a wile at 1600x1200, 6xAA, 16x AF without a glitch and the lowest FPS would be 40.

Everything was normal, until it started lagging or hanging for a sec. (throttling)
I reduced the game and checked ATItool. ATItool reported 80 C :eek:
Afther I reduced the game, temps where droping fast.


This calls for a GPU block, ASAP.

Whats the best GPU Water Block with 1/2" fittings?

Whats the best Chipset block with 1/2" fittings that fir on the DFI nf4 boards?

If its custom, who makes them?

Turok

80C? Dunno if ATI are very different to nvidia, but max on nvidia cards is 130C+...

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Originally Posted by Butcher_

80C? Dunno if ATI are very different to nvidia, but max on nvidia cards is 130C+...

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80C is supposed to be OK but just seem crazy hot to me. :D

The Maze 4 GPU block fits the X850 fine and does a good job. Your temps will be much lower with it.

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Originally Posted by AACDIRECT

80C is supposed to be OK but just seem crazy hot to me. :D

The Maze 4 GPU block fits the X850 fine and does a good job. Your temps will be much lower with it.

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hmmm..

Looks like it wasnt a video glitch because of overheating.
MaxxRacer was right. This game is really buggy sometimes, but even with the buggy parts, its still a really good game. I like Halo for PC more than the otehr Halo games, even Halo 2. Halo 2 had a lot of things that were considered improvements, but ended up messing up the game (like the "improved grafix"). They should release a stable Halo 2 game for PC since the mediocre grafix on the Xbox really gets anoying, and online gameplay would be free since you dont need Xbox live.

Anyway, I think 80 C is too high for any hardware, and if I get it water cooled, I could get all my games running from 1600x1200 4xAA 8xAF to 6xAA 16xAF afther OCing the GPU over 600 Mhz.

I hear a lot of people talking about the Maze 4 as one of the best GPU block, but is it the best of all?

Hi again (afther 3 months :p: )

Ive been thinking about updating my WC solution as soon as I get enough money to buy a new LCD and pay off the $300 that i owe my brother.
(seems like a bit of time for me :P )

Well, I wanted to get started with some plans on my future update, so here we go:

This is what I have right now:
TDX Copper/Brass 1/2"
AQ 50z 1/2"
T-line w/ T-cap
Weapon Monstercore + shroud + 4x SanAce fans

This is what I want to get: :D
Storm G5
Iwaki MD20/WMD20
Maze 4 GPU block
T-line w/ T-cap
Weapon Monstercore + shroud + 4x SanAce fans


Ive been thinking about maybe doing a wooden exterior WC box with a fan controller, the pump, a mini psu, a fan controller for my 4 SanAce fans, a T-line, and my Monster core blowing air into the box like an air tunnel.

Here is a simple pic showing my idea:

http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/3418/wcbox4uk.gif



Please help me in detail with the following questions:

1) What's the cheapest CPU cooling solution?

2) Can the Storm G5 be cheaper than $70?

3) Are the new AquaXtreme blocks close enough to a G5 and better than a TDX block? If so, what model should I get?

4) The WMD20RLZ is supose to be better than the WMD20RLT, right? Where can I get this pump? What's the cheapest place (afther S&H)?

5) My Monster core has 1/2" fittings, and the Iwaki has 3/4" fittings. How do I do to get the Iwaki to 1/2" tubings?

1. cheapest.. well considering ur wish list I dont think your going for cheap so i will ignore that question.
2. G5 cant be had for less than 250 dollars if u can find it.
3. the MP-05 is ~2c better than the TDX according to some testers, and was consistent across a few testbeds. looks to be a great block.
4. www.customaquatic.com as I said in the guide.. :slapass: BUT if i were you id go with the MD and not the WMD.
5. get the MD20RLZ which already has the fittings on it. (i posted pictures of the one i repainted). you can stretch 1/2" tubing over that with a bit of effort.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer

1. cheapest.. well considering ur wish list I dont think your going for cheap so i will ignore that question.
2. G5 cant be had for less than 250 dollars if u can find it.
3. the MP-05 is ~2c better than the TDX according to some testers, and was consistent across a few testbeds. looks to be a great block.
4. www.customaquatic.com as I said in the guide.. :slapass: BUT if i were you id go with the MD and not the WMD.
5. get the MD20RLZ which already has the fittings on it. (i posted pictures of the one i repainted). you can stretch 1/2" tubing over that with a bit of effort.

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hmmm...

I thought you said there wasnt too much difference between the MD (japanese) and WMD (American) pumps in your pump guide.

My tubing is 17/6" ID. I may hay have to buy new tubbing anyway, so I might as well get 1/2" and clamp any 1/2" fittings.

If the change is only 2 C between the MP-05, then I might as well keep my TDX block :P
Waterblock are too expensive for me right now.

Quote:

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2. G5 cant be had for less than 250 dollars if u can find it.

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$250 :confused:
Are you talking about the customized Storm G5?
I was talking about the Swiftech Storm G5.
I guess I shouldnt worry about changeing blocks, since I dont have the money.

There is no Swiftech storm G5.. only G4..

the difference in performance between the WMD and MD is just about nill, but after handling both pumps.. welll the MD's construction is CONSIDERABLY better... its just an amazingly well made pump..

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Turok

hmmm...

I thought you said there wasnt too much difference between the MD (japanese) and WMD (American) pumps in your pump guide.

My tubing is 17/6" ID. I may hay have to buy new tubbing anyway, so I might as well get 1/2" and clamp any 1/2" fittings.

If the change is only 2 C between the MP-05, then I might as well keep my TDX block :P
Waterblock are too expensive for me right now.


$250 :confused:
Are you talking about the customized Storm G5?
I was talking about the Swiftech Storm G5.
I guess I shouldnt worry about changeing blocks, since I dont have the money.

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There is no Swiftech StormG5, but there is a Little River StormG5 ;)