Since you are from Germany you should recognize my user name...SiG (Sauer) fever! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Radical_53
Since you are from Germany you should recognize my user name...SiG (Sauer) fever! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Radical_53
:D I still keep two 9mm replicas that I use for new year's, the cleaning stuff is what I had left from my time at the army :)
Btw., loop is so far finished considering cleaning, everything looks near to brand new (maybe I should polish the tops of the blocks, but no biggie). I just hope that the dirt doesn't come back...
Dirt allways comes back... :p:
I have a really hard time cleaning my BIX 2 rad. The first time I put my system togheter I didn't know you hade to clean the rad so I didn't, and my tubing got all dirty. Took my system apart and flushed the rad with vinegar and distilled water, thought the water looked clean ( only minor particles ). Rebuilt the system, after some days the system was all dirty again. And now its the third time I've taken the system apart to clean it, I've had the rad in vinegar for 48h, flushed with both vinegar and distilled water several times, and the dirt just won't go away. This is getting very annoying. Thinking about buying a whole new rad.
Another disturbing this is that the pump is dirty and I have a hard time cleaning it.
So, now I guess I seriously need som tips on how to properly clean the rad, I've followed the steps MaxxxRacer mentioned in the guide, but they don't seem to help. :cry:
I'm new to watercooling and trying to decide between a res and a t-line. I had it in mind that a T-line would let you bend the hose down below the lowest point of the loop and then the water would just flow out naturally like a syphon. Is this not the case?Quote:
T-Line:
The bleeding process will be lengthened by literally about 100x the time. Bleeding in a reservoir takes a matter of seconds, and with a T-Line it cant take up to several days. Although it can take up to several days, with some care and patience you can get the bleed time to less than an hour.
of course its an open loop so the water would flow down. (pump is off)
but there would still be pockets of water inside the blocks, pump, rad.
for it to act like a syphon, i think the other end should have a supply of water
the other end lower than that supply, with you sucking in water to start the
syphoning process...
For anyone wondering why all of the pictures in the guide are no longer working, something happend with the server and all of the attached pictures are gone. I am working on getting them all back, but in the mean time, I am sorry for the inconvenience.
Well, I'm running into cleaning problems again. Is there any possibility to "over-clean" something? Like too much vinegar hurting the "good" part rendering it useless (I'm not talking about plated stuff like barbs or so).
No matter what I do, I always end up with stained tubing (white stuff on the walls), even if all the parts come out clean with vinegar. I tried various water additives, no additives, cleaning additives, no good result.
I even tried a high pressure steam cleaner (like 180°C or so), still something left on my PA .3.
Is there any chance that this is related to my distilled water? The canister is made of plastic... maybe something washes out the softeners out of plastics and tubing for whatever reason?
bah very hard to clean stuff. maybe next time i'll stick with pure distilled water to avoid whitish stained tubing...
I tried just distilled, gave me just the same problem. First I thought it was WW staining my tubes, but that only makes them slightly red/pink. This stuff is more dull and plain white.
After how much time u experience the staining? Hve u tried different tubes?
I've seen also ppl experiencing this same prob regardless of using just distilled water or including UV or other additives.
This exact problem? Only tried with Masterkleer, as I wanted to get rid of it before using my Tygon.
How much time... as little as 2-3 days.
With masterkleer and pure distilled water I do get gunk on the tubes and have no real idea what the hell it is. I still think its from the radiator but I cant be sure.
same problem here! maybe its the radiator, but maybe its because of the cheap distilled water.
Is it possible that the problem is with Masterclear? Mean this IS cheapo tubing...Quote:
Originally Posted by skaktuss
marauder, the same thing happend when I used tygon.. It appears to happen to all different types of tubing.
Radiator would make sense, you can't see inside and don't know if it's 150% clean.
Still curious why it's white. Using a fresh BI GT, you get funky fresh colors like blue and green when you don't clean it. Red with WW on a high dosis.
But white?
Maybe I should visit a pharmacy, get their distilled water and try that against my gallon canisters of "normal" distilled water.
Then it must be the radiator cause it is the only thing you can't rip apart, but what to use use to clean it then if vinegar and distilled water aren't enough :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer
Now this is funny. Yesterday, around 5pm, I put together a little loop to check some blocks. Distilled, some citrus acid, plus some WW. Looked good after testing the first block, put a Storm in, check if it wasn't leaking (EK barbs) and then shut the loop down until this morning.
Now, the water is all milky, yet the tubing is not stained severly so far. You know what? I can't see "white water" anymore :D
I get the same problem. I've used nothing but DI with masterkleer, and the tubing turns foggy white after a couple days. I think I'll cave and pick up some uv-dye as my case has a window and the stained tubing isn't very nice to look at, any harm in that? What are the cons of using a little uv-dye? And how much is ok? I'm, using a Storm, DDC+, MCW60, MCR220.
So then the rad is not the cause.... well that makes things more difficult.. possibly the tubing itself is the problem. Not sure how to test for that though... maybe soak the tubing in distilled water for a while and see what happens.Quote:
Originally Posted by Radical_53
A little UV dye wont hurt anything other than staining everything. that includes the tubes, delrin (thankfully you really cant tell with black delrin) and the copper somewhat. Just make sure to only use a drop or two. From what I have been told the Frozen cpu stuff is the best. I have two bottles of it here but havnt used them as my case is never opened other than for maitinence/upgrades.
Yes, makes it difficult somehow. I don't even know a part that I've been using "all the time", like some little bugger always doing this. Before, I thought it was a leftover aluminium block I had, so I swapped that out too.
I'll check the tubing by soaking a piece of it in different fluids, maybe that helps. I don't remember Tygon being stained this bad, yet there are tons of people using it with the same components I'm running here :confused:
Tygon stains quite a lot too...
I've got a mix of R3603 and S-50-HL Tygon and some MK, and my tubing was clear 2 weeks after install... but now its been sitting still for 2.5 weeks, I wonder what I'll find when I open the case up when I get back tuesday - in my experience everything is fine so long as the loop is moving, its when you let it still that junk happends to me =/
@joe: They do, yes. But *why*... I definitely know that I never had those problems before, "back in the days". Yet I don't have a clue why...
@creidiki: Just what happened to me the other day. Water was flowing, so far "clean". Stopped it in the evening, turned on the next morning -> all cloudy and dirty :(
sediment may be building up and at a point where it can drop out of the flow of the loop, once the flow stops, the sediment settles, then when the pump is turned back on, it is stirred up, might be stuff in RAD becuase I don't think rads can be completely cleaned unless you open it up. just a guess
I'm also lost on why this is happening. The only logical explanation i can find is that it is rad dirt.
But radical tested without the rad in the loop and it did the same thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeBar
Right. I really tried many different parts, all with the same result. I guess I should definitely get some different water, just to see if it makes a difference.
I know quite a few ppl that experienced the same thing and used different water. Mystery remains...
Well... I won't just accept it "as is" :D At least I can see that it doesn't occur that bad if I use some citrus acid and leave the loop running :)
Any results?Quote:
Originally Posted by Radical_53
Nothing satisfying at this point. I'll keep you posted if I find something out.
When cleaning the rad, would it be OK to do step one and two with normal spring water, except for the last time? Like, first flush with spring water, then do step 2 with spring water, then step 3 and 4, then step 2 with spring water, then step 4 then step 2 with distilled water? I don't have distilled water right now and i don't have the time to go to town AND do this thing.
Btw: Really love the PA120.2 :love:
some of us used tap water for the first few flushes...
then its vinegar for rad / ketchup for copper waterblock cleaning...
then rinse with distilled...
generally repeat vinegar soaking and distilled rinsing a few times...
then install loop.
Interestingly, I've been curious about the cloudy tubing issue as well... which is why I've had sections of Masterkleer soaking in distilled water, 10% Pentosin G11, 10% Pentosin G12, and 10% Swiftech Hydrx for about a month now.
Last I checked (which was likely two weeks ago), the tubing in the distilled water had clouded very badly, the tubing in the G11 seemed to be alright, the tubing in the G12 also seemed alright (except that it had been stained bright pink...and had become UV reactive), and the tubing in the Hydrx was getting pretty cloudy and "dirty" looking.
I'll likely redo the test in a more controlled manner (with a larger variety of additives) and post pics once I have the time.
Nice results! Still I'm curious why the tubing would stain and cloud with plain distilled water... technically, that seems really weird to me.
I just bought a bottle of distilled water in drugstore. now i'm waiting for new transparent tubing arrive! and then will see if tubes get cloudy using farmacy water too!
I still think that distilled water for car accumulators and home usage is not 100% h2o, thats why tubes and barbs become calcareous like kettle.
Alex, what container do you use to soak test tubing? covered i hope....
i would like to recommend testing with some diff tubing,tygon, primo & clearflex etc, it would be interesting to know if other tubing will have the same issues...
after running loop (masterkleer tubing) for a few days with distilled water, i had similar experience of cloudy tubing, maybe needs some solution to help maintain clearness...
@skaktuss: That'd be my guess to. Also, I'm not too sure how the plastic canister meant contaminate the water. UV light from the sun, softeners inside the plastic and so on.
I'd prefer to get distilled water from a pharmacy in a dark glass bottle, but I guess I don't want to know what that might cost.
@septim: I'd have to look if I still have some old pictures of my smaller Tygon tubes. They got dirty looking with water + WW too, and got cloudy after a time without WW. I'm still not sure if it's just the tubing itself. If so, there must be something to prevent it (maybe flushing it with fluid X, something to take the stuff out that let's them get cloudy).
I'm not a chemist, so this is kinda trial and error... only thing I know is that there has to be a way to get clear and flexible tubing and make it stay that way.
A few months back I rebuilt my loop. I cleaned all parts very carefully and used distilled water with less than 5% Zerex + a 60 micron filter for about a week, but the tubing still got cloudy. Maybe it's just an illusion but the plexi in my res and DDC tops didn't look as cloudy as the tubing, I wonder why?
The computer did get a lot of sun light so I'm trying to remove this factor this time around. I'm using black R3400 tygon outside the case and no case window.
Well, if you use R3400 you don't have to bother about clouding :D The plex on my rigs got cloudy too btw. It is cleanable, but really hard to rub off. I don't honestly have a clue.
Someone fit in chemistry? Is there any quick test thingy (like the things you give to kids as a toy) to check what kind of substance this dirt consists of?
andersson, sunlight cant make tubes chalky white! it can be caused by saline dilutions like calcium carbonate.
I wonder if buyin' "cheap" distilled water has a bearing. That's what I've been using. I had some alea not long ago. Got rid of it. Flushed the loop pretty good.but didn't really seriously clean it. (Temps are still very nice) Still the tubes seemed to clear up for a time. But now the tygon is cloudy again. (I turn the rig off once inna' while)
To get a good analysis of whats in the tube scum you would probably need something like mass spectrometry.Quote:
Originally Posted by Radical_53
My theory is this:
Since distilled water is devoid of pretty anything but H20...now things like to be in equilibrium. For example hot or cold water will eventually get to room temperature cause again things like to be in equilibrium. Since tubings are kinda slightly porous, the water will draw out whatever free moving chemicals there is in the composition of the tubing to make itself closer to the property of the tubing. Perhaps thru osmosis? Since hte mixture is mechanical between the water and tubing substance, it will settle out of the water if water isn't flowing or flows intermittently. I would say the "purer" the water, the cloudier the tubing will get.
P.S. don't mind me I got a C- in both physics and chem, that's why I'm an accountant.
another theory to add to your list Situman is that the usual container of Distilled water bought in the stores or where ever is plastic which may or may not be 100% free of contaminants or what nots...
I've a lot of questions on the pre-install procedure. I'm just not too keen on cracking open my brand new Storm or Maze4's if I absolutely don't have to.
1. Wouldn't taking apart the waterblocks void the warranty, or is that not important? What if it was defective/leaked before testing?
2. Wouldn't it suffice to simply clean the blocks, like the radiator, without having to take them apart?
3. If we decide to take a waterblock apart, don't you have to replace the o-ring and barbs upon re-assembly?
4. Are the more reputable Swiftech and Danger Den waterblocks Q&A really that bad?
I will answer those questions.
1. No, it doesn't void your warranty. Blocks like the Storm are held together with screws. You can take the block apart and put it back together as many times as you want. There is no way to detect if a block as been opened.
2. No, it will not suffice. You must take the blocks apart and clean each part separately. The entire base (copper) should be placed in a vinegar bath for 8-24 hours to get really clean. You just can't clean it w/o taking it apart.
3. No. You can reuse the O-rings as many times as you want. Like I wrote earlier, the block can be disassembled and reassembled as many times as you please. Keep the O-rings.
4. I don't know. When I got my MCW60, I immediately took it apart and washed it, soaked base in copper, before I ever put it in my loop. Also, after 1 year, it's wise to clean the Storm because it can be clogged easily resulting in worse temps. I ran a loop with DI water and some dye and after 5 months, the cups were heavily clogged and the block just FILTHY. It's part of maintaining your W/C system. Once a year isn't too much to ask for.
Bottom line, open up and clean your blocks. Better temps, no nasty filth in your water and it's always nice to see what your wbs are made of. Anyone can do it. Even 2 yr olds can work a screwdriver.
Thanks for answering thunderstruck.
Maze4 GPU blocks have "warranty void if opened" stickers on them. :confused:
So should I replace the plastic barbs that come with the Storm with the more durable nickel plated barbs, or is it not necessary to take that part of the block apart for yearly maintenance?
Looks like I'm going to have fun taking my loop apart and do a proper pre-install. :slapass:
Well, your CPU warranty is void if OCed, but did that stop you? Well, the sticker on the maze4 shouldn't either.Quote:
Originally Posted by xenolith
As for barbs on the storm, it's not necessary, but it offers some benefits.
-more durable. the plastic barbs may crack or warp after time.
-looks much better
-EK barbs provide less turbulence due to slightly bigger OD
Also, from Mr.VirtualRain:
Also, you won't believe how dirty your blocks are if you've never cleaned them....Quote:
Material: Plastic vs. Metal
Plastic fittings can be nylon, poly(something), or acetal. Most Swiftech stuff comes with plastic barb fittings. The main consideration in using these kind of fittings is that if you are using the widely recommended 7/16" tubing over 1/2" barbs that are plastic, you will not be able to easily remove the tubing once it is on. In fact, you will probably have to heat up the tubing to get it soft enough to put it on and then you will likely have to cut it off.
Metal fittings are typically nickel plated brass. They look good and have the benefit of allowing 7/16" tubing to slide onto 1/2" barbs forming a good leak-proof seal (even without clamps) yet the tubing can still be pulled of with some force without damaging the fitting or tubing.
Especially if u use any additive... ;)
Good point. I guess I just need to get off my lazy butt and clean these buggers. :slap:Quote:
Originally Posted by thunderstruck!
Thanks again.
i emailed danger den regarding same issue with my RBX, told em how am i suppose to clean copper base and change mid nozzles without voiding warranty, they replied that said sticker was only there to signify that they have tested said block to be leak proof at the seams and that i could change said mid nozzles without voiding said warranty.Quote:
Originally Posted by xenolith
Thanks for answering thunderstruck.
Maze4 GPU blocks have "warranty void if opened" stickers on them.
hope this helps
The white stuff is plastic additives, that is a Chemist told me. Apparently it is known issue to him:eek: .Quote:
Originally Posted by Radical_53
There have lots of additives for plastic to make it more soft, more flexible. The plastic additives could dissolve into water.
which plastic are you telling us?
1. the plastic tubing we all use?
2. or the plastic bottle that some distilled water comes in?
Well... that'll give us a problem then. Those softeners do get into the water if the container (or plastic somewhere else) is being warmed up or hit by sunlight (warms it up too).
We can't do anything against warming up, and we can't do much against the sunlight.
One option "might" be flushing the tubing with really warm water before use and using distilled water that comes in glass bottles. Still, there's some other plastic on the loop then, like Delrin and so on :( Oh my...
My guess is Both, some high grade containers are better.
Sunlight also cause the cloudy/turbid appearance of an transparent plastic (UV).
http://ift.confex.com/ift/2003/techp...aper_18817.htm
http://www.commondreams.org/headlines03/1209-10.htm
Just some ideas.
bah, so long as performance wise and efficiency is not affected, except the bling factor, i gues we'd have no choice about cloudy tubing, if its just a matter of time before cloudy tubing begins...
Yes... *if* it's only the bling factor. But even that is something that I'd like to keep. This stuff is way too expensive to accept that it looks ugly, don't you think so?
~5-6 of my storm jets were obturated with that white crap :rolleyes:
so it's not only bling factor!
sounds hard to do that, if you don't keep changing tubing every 3/few months.
(provided you have reserved tubing in the sides)
Well, it shouldn't be that hard. We'd have to get to a position where changing the fluid is only necessary once or twice a year for security reasons, not because it's dirty.
Funny to say that, but I still have two old loops running here with tiny tubing and they don't cloud... but they're also much lower flow :( Used the same fluid for those as on my machines that do cloud very fast. Tubing, flow, light, plastic softeners... it's somewhere in those I'd say :(
How bout Asetek Antarctica KT03A-12VX kit?
how can i get rid of bobles inside my loop, my wc system has been running for a day now. is it something to get worried about or is this totally normal ?, the bobles are really tiny.
This is one of the reasons that maxxxracer tells us in the leak testing guide to use a particulate filter for a week or so to catch this stuff that would gunk up the jets in the Storm block. The inline filter he recommends is filters anything over 5 microns. That's the same filter used in medical applications like dialysis machines. If the darn thing wasn't so freakin big I'd keep it in the loop 24/7. The filter I use is rated for up to 2 gpm flow. I guess if it was smaller it'd be a flow killer....Quote:
Originally Posted by skaktuss
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...r-loop-007.jpg
After you have filtered the water, how do you remove the filter? Don't you have to drain the filtered water into some other container anyway? Don't you have to either remove/insert a new piece of tubing for the final setup?
Funny I am doing this as we speak. The water is reusable (correct me if I am wrong, maxxx). I drained the water into a clean glass gallon container (dishwasher on potscrubber wash with sani dry option then flush with distilled water). I am resizing a few pieces of the tubing in the loop, but if I didn't need to do that I'd end up with only one extra piece of tube. I would connect the tube that was running from the rad to the filter and connect it directly to the Storm. I'd set aside the extra tube that ran from the output of the filter to the Storm when I was leak testing/filtering. Hope this helps.Quote:
Originally Posted by IanY
PhillyBoy,
Thanks to you (and no thanks too lol j/k), I now must "master the possibilities" lol McMaster here I come! :)
Errr... one gallon glass containers... my wife only has two 32 fl. oz. Pyrex measuring cups... where do I find a glass container that holds one gallon --> flower vase? :)
"Get those dishes and cups out of the dishwasher!!" LOL :)
AN old fashioned glass milk container. We have a "micro dairy" close by that sells their products in those time honored glass containers.Quote:
Originally Posted by IanY
Another idea might be a red wine decanter like this one you can buy at Target:
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...nedecanter.jpg
Wine Decanter!! I have one of those lol :) I knew it would be useful at some point or another :)
It's amazing what we have just lying about that aids us in our quest. . .Quote:
Originally Posted by IanY
I can see my brother coming over: "say... while you were out, I helped myself to this delicious blue wine you have here... it made me a little high and I even saw a couple of angels" :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Philly_Boy
Yeah, pentosin G11 will do that to you every time. . .LMAO!!Quote:
Originally Posted by IanY
[QUOTE=MaxxxRacer]Water Cooling Guide: The basics
An Introduction to Watercooling your Computer
10. North Bridge Waterblock
This is an item that, for the most part should have never been created. If you are a performance user, you will want to stay away from these. The NB (north bridge) waterblocks are generally overly restrictive and do not do much of anything for your overclocking capabilities. There are some exceptions to this, but for the most part your NB will be cooled more than adequately by the stock cooling, for by an inexpensive air cooling option.
The legitimacy of the NB block is a little bit greater for those users searching for the almighty silence. If you want to get rid of the noisy fan that plagues your NB this is a viable option. But I stress to try a zalman fanless air cooling unit first before you try a NB block, because it will hurt the overall performance of your watercooling loop. I should note though that there are some exceptions where the NB block can actually help flow, but these are very rare and I only know of one such situation. [QUOTE=MaxxxRacer]
Does this statement still hold true with the introduction of the 680i chipset?
The NB for this chipset will get hot under normal conditions, let alone overclocking.
Is the restriction factor from even the newest/greatest NB blocks great enough to force 680i users to search for the best in active air cooling?
Mike
Jumping from one subject to another. :D
I have been soaking my brand new Thermochill PA 120.2 for 3x 6hours but the vingar that comes out is still murky.
How many times do i have to repeat the soaking process?
I'm afraid the vinegar will never come out cristalclear, or am i being a little impatient?
This is what the vinegar looked like aftre the first 6 hour soak:
just make sure its white vinegar, not red cane vinegar... (joke)
shaking vigoriously, rinse with distilled water and repeat somemore...
Lol.
Yeah after the 3rd 24hour soak the vinegar came out rather clear.
I'm using the vinegar straight out of the bottle is that ok or do i have to mix it with distilled water?
I have to redo the whole process since the rad had a small leak. :(
I returned it and have to wait for a new one to show up.
oh tough luck with that leak, well at least now you know what it would looks like after several vinegar baths.
the next time i am finish with vinegar and distilled rinse, i'll leave a clean batch of distilled in it and plug it with some G3/8 plugs i got from cool technica's
Yeah, that's my luck. :mad:
I was wondering if the vinegar could have eaten some of the solder perhaps hence the leak?
I'm using the vinegar straight out of the bottle, that's how you guys do it too right?
I discovered the leak after the last vinegar soak, on the backside there were some greenish stains on the fin area, right on the edge and the fins were a little wet at that spot.
But leaving the rad filled with distilled water like you suggested might be a good idea.
vinegar out of the bottle probably would not cause that, else we'd already have read about it. maybe a minor leak/pin:banana::banana::banana::banana::banana: that you could solder/iron yourself?
Nah, no soldering here. :nono:
Besides, it was right at the edge, under the "shroud" part, don't know how else to put it, the part where one mounts the fans onto.
Didn't want to mess with that, i payed €75,- for a rad, for that kind of money i expect a proper watertight rad.
I returned it, the dowside is that i'm gonna have to wait and do the soaking part over again.
Oh well...
yah, oh well lets hope it comes back soon...
Alright I'm upgrading my system.. ok well actually I'm modding an existing EXOS system...no, not the entire WC system (which for me is mostly 1/2" ID, except for the AquaTube)... I'm just going to change the EXOS to be 1/2" ID internally. By default, the EXOS is 1/4" OD. The only part of the EXOS I'm keeping is the case, because I like it. That's a very important reason. But after using the EXOS for about one or two years (?), I'm ready to add a good bit of performance to my "mobile" system.
Pump. There isn't much space in the EXOS available for placing a pump. Taking up too much space would mean a smaller radiator / heater core. I'll say the maximum optimal dimensions of a pump would be 4 7/32 x 5 1/2 x 2 5/32 [in].. which is approximately 4.218 x 5.5 x 2.156 [in]. Which means the Iwaki MD20RZT you recommended would be definitely out of the question it would appear. The Blue-something pump also seems too big, as are other pumps such as the MCP 665 Swiftech, Eheim 1250, &c. Those would be the "slick" dimensions.. I might be able to expand the 4 7/32 [in] dimension a bit more.. the absolute wall is at 7 1/4 [in]... but that might require even more modding. Ok. So you recommended the DDC-2... I looked up the specs: 7.57 L/min, 6.1m.... However, you recommended a pair of them, but you didn't specify whether to configure them to be in series or in parallel. From reading your article, you seem to put a lot of emphasis on head, so I'd guess you want to increase head as opposed to flow rate, leading me to conclude you'd recommend a pair of DDC-2's in series. The thing that troubles me however, is that this pump is for 3/8".. you'd need 4 conversions... Maybe you could skimp on two of them by making the pipes extra tight, who knows. But would that kill performance? Before I read your article, I was considering buying just one DD Mag II LE.. It has a 2.5m head and a flow rate of 9.45 L/min... max of 3.5 psi. A quick note.. currently the system consists of 2x Koolance R-PMP01's, which provide a stunning 1 L/min. The ambient temperature (I like working in the basement in the cold of winter) is 13*C/55*F, just the way I like it (cold builds character). My computer at full load (1 instance of F@H and 1 instance of Prime95 looking for the next prime number -- not torture tests or anything of that sort) brings the CPU to 41*C, PWM to 42*C, Case to 26*C (MBM figures), and Case to 27*C (External probe). Idle temperatures for CPU is 34*C, for PWM is 39*C, for Case is 26*C/27*C (MBM/Probe). I'm hoping for better stats with this big mod.
Radiator / Heater Core. The existing radiator is Al with dimensions 11.7 x 6.1 x 0.98 [in], with virtually exactly the amount of area needed to optimally mount 3x 80mm's with special shims which is how the EXOS works (3x 80mm fans).. but more visually easier to understand, its the area covered by 2x 120mm fans. Okay. This is a 1/4" ID radiator. I want a 1/2" ID radiator / heater core. You made the recommendation of a 2-302 '77 Bonneville w/ AC or alternatively, a 2-199 '77 Bonneville w/o AC. I'm trying to look up dimensions for this thing. I can't seem to find any that give full details. Would you happen to know the "real length" for this thing? And the height of the barbs? (I suppose you could twist the barbs into a different angle...) The alternative I was considering originally was the Stealth GTS 240 BlackIce... Though it's quite expensive.. I suppose not by itself per-se, but I'm also manufacturing a custom Al case with quick disconnects for 1/2" ID pipes and all.. so I'd like to save a bit if possible. Which would you recommend then? Prolly go with the heater core unless it's too big? I hope the thickness is okay.. I don't have much clearance in there (a theoretical max of 1 17/32 [in] ~ 1.531 [in]... of couse the theoretical max is meaningless, since it would imply the object is thick enough to block off all air flow. The original radiator inside the EXOS is 0.98 [in], just as an idea. Would the Bonneville heater core work then?
Thanks a lot in advance, to MaxxxRacer and to everyone else. Any input is much appreciated.
Need some help on my watercooling build. I have the following components
Basically I have these questions:Quote:
Laing D5 (1/2" barb)
Black Ice Extreme Radiator 240 (1/2" barb)
Alphacool NexXxoS XP Bold Sockel 775 (yeah I know best one I could find in stock :() (1/2" barb)
Repack Cooling Slot In Black (1/2" barb)
1) How much do I tighten the barbs on the components?
2) When putting the tubing over the barbs where do I place the clamp on teh barb (
clamp = <
barb = =
component = |
right at the end of it <===| or at the beginning ===<| -crude but hope you see my point-)?
3) How tight do I tighten the clamps?
Thanks if you guys can help me!
Just FYI I have already attempted at building but my pump failed and I had some leakage from it.
EDIT - made a forum post here
Followed your guide for rad cleaning maxx and couldn't believe the crap that came out :
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...10/cooking.jpg
Try alcohol...there won't be a risk of anything getting eaten.
Looks like solder flux...Quote:
Originally Posted by Ic3man
February 8, 2007
Today I updated the guide with alternative radiator cleaning procedures and lowered the vinegar soak times due to the fact that vinegar (acetic acid) can and will eat away at copper/brass. With the 5% solutions we use, the speed at which it does so is very slow, but the risk is still there if extended soak times are used.
My most sincere appoligies to anyone who has suffered hardware loss due to the misinformation provided in the guide. While I try to ensure all information in the guide is accurate, sometimes I unwittingly present incorrect information
Cheers,
MaxxxRacer
I am not insinuating he did this deliberatly, just busting his stones.Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer
He apologized for what he sees as an error and in sorts it is, though not intentional, but it is up to each one of use to really explore things on our own.
WOoHOO!
:slapass: for misleading us, you were a bad bad bad boy!:cord:
MaxxxRacer,
You did not mislead anybody. Its up to everybody to do their own due diligence. Those who follow blindly without thinking get what comes to them.
Caveat Emptor.
The sheep need guidance. The more guided sheep the more R&D money there is for watercooling, which in turn means better products.Quote:
Originally Posted by IanY
LOL where did you get the "sheep" from? I thought that was IanY's signature phrase:DQuote:
Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer
you know.. the sheep mentality.. if one guy does it, we all must do it.
What I mean is this: the more people there are purchasing quality watercooling equipment, the larger the budget of these small companies will have for future ventures and R&D.
I just used that sh*t to clean my radiator. Great.
Is this damage by vinager widespread, or only reported in a few cases?
I don't get it...
You mean to tell me, in this forum, the place where people argue about 1-2 degree variations, concaves and convex of blocks, tube ID and OD, pumps, coolants, resevoirs, etc.. etc........NOBODY noticed that the the "HOW TO" thread might have contained information that could possibly damage/destroy a radiator?
Good job, everybody. L-M-A-O :D
Shane, I know of only one case of suspected radiator death from vinegar, but that was with multiple 24hour soaks..
previously the guide had suggested 6-8hours which, to my knowledge has not destroyed any components.
I would also like to point out that the reaction between vinegar and copper/brass is a slow one when no catalyst is present.
No one noticed the error because it was something that not many know about. Infact I consulted a Phd in Chemistry on the subject prior to putting the information in the guide.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer
For the record, I don't hold any ill-will towards you, Maxxx. Without your guide, I'd be lost in space with regards to watercooling.
I'm just worried that I messed up my new radiator. Is there any way for me to check for leaks before putting it in my loop? I filled it with water and didn't noticed any leaks, but at the same time, when I shook the radiator, it did seem like a little water came out in the back. :(
I did 3 soaks, 2 for about 10 hours, and 1 for a little while longer. I did this because I had too. I simply wasn't at home to empty it out (my job doesn't allow for normal hours too often). I was just under the impression that vinager couldn't damage a radiator....now I'm worried I just borked my new rad.
MaxxRacer how much vinegar/isopropyl alcohol/Kanco system pre-clean do you suggest we get with the revised cleaning procedure?
The problem was that people assumed that because you used vinegar, the longer the soak the cleaner. Hence the "I soaked my rad in vinegar for 2 weeks!!!". I remember someone's heatercore got eaten through. I think repeated rinses/flushes are more important than soaks, just to point that out as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer