sounds great. maybe we next see your 2 or 3 state cascadecooler. BTW haw U built that autocascade by your self or is chilly or fugger or someone else helped U?Quote:
Originally Posted by s7e9h3n
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sounds great. maybe we next see your 2 or 3 state cascadecooler. BTW haw U built that autocascade by your self or is chilly or fugger or someone else helped U?Quote:
Originally Posted by s7e9h3n
Nah, I actually could have bought a dual compressor cascade, but I always wanted to play with an autocascade. Charlie had originally obtained a Polycold autocascade and had it modded by Chilly for DOD use. I bought it from him when he decided he didn't need it, PM me if you want more info because we're way off topic here ;) .....Sorry SSliencer and Golden Eagle :(Quote:
Originally Posted by serial_killer
Send these things to Chilly1 as fast as you can!!! =P
Yes Sir!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Weee
Lol
That's what I like to hear ;)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ssilencer
Owned
LOL :P
Ok, I was just messing around with it and plugged in a dummy power switch and the molex connector to running power supply and of course plugged the main power cord in. After the 5 minute wait I start it up(just with the evap in the air) and it starts great, says On.... PC On.... then gives me what I think is an error code of E7C I believe. The evap gets nice and cold but I dont' know how cold. Do I have to connect it to the motherboard power on switch to let this work correctly just for testing it out? Overall I really like this and am very impressed.
Any suggestions?
Check the coneccion of the temp probe.
Is the temp reading ok till you guet the "pc on" screen??
This is a quck video I took. It starts with the unit off, then pushing the power on button and then after I get the reading of -E7C I push the power button again and get ---.
The unit gets nice and cold. I checked the wire from the Gfroster to the temperature probe and it's intact and connected but I didn't check continuity.
So I assume it's supposed to work like this:
Power button on
Screen says "On"
Temperature starts to lower but is displaying some temperature
Once temp hits -25 then "Pc On"
Then displays temp the whole time and continues to display this.
http://www.savefile.com/files.php?fid=8252794
Please any help you would be would be great. Thanks
BlueAqua
My G-Froster Value just started acting up in a similar way not even 2-3 days ago (after a couple of months of working just fine). Instead of starting at like 24-25C ("room temp"), cooling off to ~ -23C and turning the PC on, the temp reads low on initial start-up (like -87C, which my be your "-E7C") and slowly climbs up. Difference between yours and mine is that it will still read temp instead of --- and that temp seems to be about normal after 5 min or so of the PC being on. CPU temps are the same as before so it's either the controller or the temp probe.
The problem is, instead of waiting to turn the PC on, it starts it right away because the temp reading is so cold. The first time it happened, mine did a thermal shutdown because the evap didn't have enough time to cool off before it powered up the mobo.
I have my 5V lead from the G-Froster connected to a spare PSU and I turn the unit separately, let it cool off for about 5 min. and then power the PC on manually.
I thought it was just me having a fluke, but maybe there's more to it if I am not the only one...
There are 2 presets on the controller, they are used for calibration purposes. If any of you have made any adjustment to them, let me know so I can tell you how to correct it.
If that´s not your case...
boostedevo:
I think the temp probe isn´t working ok, but i´m not completely sure.
I´d like you to unplug the temp probe from the board, and tell me what do you get on the display while the phase is cooling down.
It´s a really weird failure, that the temp reading becomes normal after a while.
The voltage between the temp probe terminals should be 2.98v at 25ºc (it has to be attached to the controller) I´t would be great if you can test that.
BlueAqua, your problem could be a shortcircuit in the temp probe, can you unplug the probe and check it with a continuity tester?
Golden_Eagle, I haven't touched anything on the controller at all.
1) Unplug temp probe w/ unit on, it reads "HI".
2) Unplug temp probe w/ unit off and then turn on, it reads "E8C".
3) Voltage at the pins when LED reads ~ 0C = 2.75V
4) Voltage at the pins when LED reads ~ -42C = 2.30V.
I'll test the voltage again the next time I do a cold boot and the evap is up to "room temp". According to the temp probe, that may be 24-26C or -85 to -90C :)
I left the unit off for about an hour and fired it up with the DMM leads on the pins and the probe connected. Oddly enough, I now get the exact same error that BlueAqua does (E7C) and voltage is way down on the probe (.46-.50V). I restarted it a few times, but the error and voltage remains unchanged.
Ok I've taken a resistance reading from the load side of the temperature probe that connected to the circuit board and got about 45 ohms with the probe somewhat less than ambiant (21C). It wasn't acutally connected at this time when I did the measurements. This to me sounds about right, what do you think?
Also I took a resistance reading of the 2 pins on the circuit board and got infinite, so that sounds right.
Ummm....you can't test for resistance when something's connected in a circuit......Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueAqua
I disconnected it and that's why I have 2 different readings.Quote:
Originally Posted by s7e9h3n
Just wondering, what PICs are actually used in that?
boostedevo:
All the voltage readings seems to be acurrate, but not the last one.
Could you separate the temp prob from the evaporator and redo the last test? "...left the unit off for about an hour and fired..."
If the problem persists, I´d try with a new temp probe. You could probably get a cheap LM335Z in a local store, it will be fine to do the test.
BlueAqua: I get a reading of ~40 Kohms in a new temp probe. If you are getting 45 Ohms you definitely need another temp probe. Contact chilly1 and see if he can change your´s for a newone.
Btw the resistence measurement will not tell you the temperature of the probe.
Ok, I have it figured out. It turns out that when I received the unit the 2 wire cable was off and I hooked it up like you were supposed to, but it turns out that the 2 wires were swapped and it didn't work. So I swapped them around and now all works as designed. Man, that was quite a relief. It's now awesome to see -57C. That was with no load and just in open air but quite awesome to see. I can't wait to get it hooked up and get it all going. One question though.
Is there a shutdown function associated with this and how does that work? I didn't have it hooked up to my motherboard but when I shutdown windows will that turn the unit off or do I have to hook up some kind of a power switch. When I press the power button all I get is ---. I don't know if this is right or now but we're making good progress.
I ended taking another resistance reading and got 40Kohms this time. I think I was on the wrong scale or something. I just use an old analog radio shack model so it's not all too accurate but gets me by until I get my Fluke.
G_E: I'l try to get around to that this week...I have a Fry's local that usually has a decent selection. Oddly enough, ever since doing that voltage test, I shut it down for a couple of hours and when I came back to the "room temp" turn-on test, all I've gotten since is the E7C code.
I am waiting for Chilly1 to finish up something else and this unit is going to be sent back to him at some point anyway, so I'll let him deal with it if I haven't figured it out by then ;) I'll keep you posted if/when I swap the probe though...
BlueAqua: I´m glad you figured out. It was driving me crazy hehehe.
The pahse changer will be turned off when you shotdown windows, after the 5v on the psu are gone. That´s when the "---" screen goes away.
If you press the power botton, the whole system will be shot down ( the power button should be set in the BIOS, to the option that shots down windows)
To do a complete test, you should connect the controller to the mobo, an to the PC-PSU.
G-Froster will take care of the whole system, so you can use your pc like a fan-cooled one.
Boostedevo: Stay touch. i´m still wondering what happend to your controller. I supose a probe replacement will be enough.
I PM'd Ssilencer but he hasn't been online so I'll just ask here.
I've got a Mach1 I just modded and it's working great but the controller is pretty awful, and it looks like the hold reset is just holding so unless i can sort that out, and mod the temp probe resistance, it's just too awkward to work with.
Can the golden froster (basic version) just be wired in? I mean can I use the existing temp probe with it to avoid having to strip down the head?
Could I use the one fan controller for the fans, and the other for the evap heater? Or does the basic version come with dual fan control?
I can wire things up without a problem if some small changes were needed, but it's the controller itself I just wonder about. Mainly the temp probe. Also can I use my fluke to read the temps and calibrate the readout with it? The full version I'd assume yes, but was wondering about the basic just to keep the switch inexpensive.
Also if you could PM me a price for UK shipped that would be great :)
Cheers
Gray
Since I haven't been able to track down ssilencer myself, I will chime in for you Gray.
#1. NTC Thermistor is used on mach I while LM335 is used on froster.. incompatible. Maybe some software rewrite could be done but it would be a lot of work with table and equation on their end.
#2. Fan controller probably could be reprogrammed. But I doubt it can handle much power. What is resistance of heatpad?
The basic controller can be used the temp probe is of a different type but you can attach teh probe to the suctionline under the neck of the suctionline and get emps somewhere near.. closer than most mach display's. The temps are close to accurate.. and you can adjust them a little..Quote:
Originally Posted by Gray Mole
Does anybody have a manual or diagram which describes how to wire the golden froster x & value up?
Here's the G-Froster Value diagram :)
http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/8...tion6xt5su.jpg
It looks like you finally got the package.Quote:
Originally Posted by jan
I´m really sorry about the delay, only god knows where the 1º package is.
BTW, I´m sending you a pm right now.
thx for the answer. :)
Im curious as to how far out the lcd screen sticks our from the green board its attached to. my cooler's in an acrylic box with 1/4" thick walls that i'd like to cut to fit an xe in. I'd like the screen to stick out at 1mm or at the very least, be flush with the wall.. can someone give me an idea of the thickness?
thanks
thanks! wow, for some reason i didnt know the screen was so small. guess i was assuming the Xe version was the X. so there are two rows for digits in the Xe, not 4 like the X? i don't remember reading anywere in the thread what the Xe version offers. is it just that it supports 2 fans and 2 thermal probes instead of 4? thanks again :)
So when's the software going to be ready for the Golden Frosters? My temp sensor is off by 10°C so it needs to be calibrated.
Hi,
Is there a list of features for each of the models somewhere?
Sorry if I've missed it... this is a massive thread now.
Also, who do I contact about the pricing?
Good work guys :toast:
Wish I could afford one of these. Ssilencer or Golden, think prices will drop at all in the near future?
chilly1 for north america, Ssilencer/Goldeneagle for anywhere else i believeQuote:
Originally Posted by Rabbi_NZ
Hi guys, I'm moving to a new house, and I'm recicling it right now, I don't have phone or internet yet, so I'm in a ciber cafe :(
There will be good news about the controllers soon, so, stay tunned :)
is this good news for the current controllers, ie software update, or for new versions? im wondering so as to see if i should wait to place an order with chilly1Quote:
Originally Posted by Ssilencer
I really don't want to purchase and have this problem if its unfixable... Is this a problem? how acurate to the +/- C are the sensors?Quote:
Originally Posted by B5I8
thanks if i hopefully get a reply to this :(
I'd like to get the full documentation for mine GFroster Full I got with my Chilly1 Unit, could I get a PM where to download it from ?
yeesh where's the customer service? is this thread supposed to be dead or what? :mad:
EDIT: sorry sSilencer, forgot you dont have a house just yet.. im still staying tuned...
ssilencer is moving and is without internet other then when he goes to an internes cafe... Golden is asslepp I will contact him and we will ge t the software uploaded and I will stickie a link. We has some ssues with the latest version of the firmware and I want to get it fixed first...
Bryce I will send you a new controller when they arrive.. Wee Njkid has a copy now so when he gets up PM him ...
could I trouble you to post the frosterX diagram? (full version)
I inadvertedly yanked out the ones that lead to turn on the mobo/molex/power on switch
No need for that. Golden sent me firmware version 3.2 along with the software. While I can't get the software to install properly, I did get it to run so I changed the temp reading. Thanks for the offer though. Everything is running fine and dandy with the unit so I'm happy now :D.Quote:
Originally Posted by chilly1
thank you chilly! that's perfect
are the first two pics of the Xe and the last of the full X version? if so then there's no keypad for the Xe? I want to program my units name onto the lcd.. hrmm u getting the fullX version in anytime soon chilly?
No, it is latest verison of X and early version of X.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sneil
XE looks significantly different and not available yet.
I think the XE is available, i pm'd chilly1 and he said all he had was the values and XEs in his stock. i was assuming the XE was a dummbed down version of the full. I don't want a dumbed down version of anything! hehe
i could be wrong tho..
You could probably still order X if you asked and deal with wiring... I prefer new interface of XE myself after using one X. Functionality wise, they are same thing really. :woot: And much cleaning wiring from what I can see.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sneil
sneil you can program your name in the LCD an much more, by using the windows sofware either in X´s or Xe´s controllers; No need of keyboard.
btw, as Jinu117 said Xe is a new version of controller, NO dummbed version.
We improbed many things that make it easyer for the user to do the installation process.
ah ok, thanks golden eagle:) good to know
and sorry by dumbed i meant lesser features, wasnt demeaning it or anything
Thanks again:toast:
Hey, Chilly, am I getting the XE on my dual compressor, triple evap unit? I'd be willing to wait for it if it turns out to be *that* much easier to install.
can somone just confirm the latest version as xe? and also is that the one with the 4 line lcd screen. If so who do i have to PM to get one of these babys in the UK! :D I love this thing soooo much got to get one. only wish they had black boards rofl as all the boards in my pc are black even my network card rofl
This is what chilly1 said in a pmQuote:
Originally Posted by Icy
"the Xe has a 2 by 16 (characters) display the X had a 4 by 24 display.. they both have 4 temp probes and one fan header// and teh same software basically."
the Xe is the same as the full with just a smaller screen
And instead of using 2 PCB integrated 1 PCB making wiring much cleaner. It is IMHO more refined controller in every sense.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sneil
can you connect mains voltage directly into the device or does it need a 12v power adapter or something?
Snail: no worries man. Actually I said it´s no dumbed because it´s a whole new desing; but you are right, it has less features It´s only one themp probe input in the G-Froster Xe and the LCD is smaller.
ICY: Xe is in fact the last controller released. U will get a pm with a quote asap. About the black pcb... we just can get green around here :(
Rabbi_NZ: Yes, you need to use an adapter.
Regards.
And correct me if I am wrong, swapping LCD means just matter of reprogramming firmware a little bit anyway to accomodate LCD sizing in concern (I know you don't have time to explain now). I myself thought it was great move to go 16x2 to reduce cost since all you will really care would be evap temperature display (small things adds up in cost quick otherwise)Quote:
Originally Posted by Golden_Eagle
you are completely right jinu117 :thumbsup:
YGPMQuote:
Originally Posted by Icy
Can one of these be used to power and control 2 compressors run side by side and what sort of shut down and start up proceedure do they have??
Cheers
yes, because you can power up 1, 2 or 10 compressors with a relay...
I've also a question: can I use k-probes with the gfroster? would be much eassier, because on my dualhead are 2 k-probes and 1 with a 2 pin connector...
If you are asking for a procedure like a cascade, golden is finishing the cascade controller for Extremecorvette in some days, and it will be using K type probes. The actual frosters can't use k type.Quote:
Originally Posted by Entsafter
If you want to power up/shutdown 2 compressors at the same time, you have to get a G-Froster X (up to 80amps) or get in touch with us by pm or msn.
No, it's for a single-stage...
I think chilly1 ordered normal g-froster x, but there is only 1 probe in the cpu evap and noone in the gpu evap.
I'll talk with chilly1 later
OK no what I was asking is I would like to control 2 compressors instead of a single duel headed unit 2 units on duel cpu's ....Also will the g-froster have thermal protection to shut down both compressors should one fail to hit temperature or not or if either overheats ???
Many thanks
I am awaiting the new controlers and i amn sending you another probe,, just ran out...Quote:
Originally Posted by Entsafter
The G-frosters uses the thermal probe in the evap to control startup and emergency shut downs (also sense de 5v line to see if it is runing for shut down), if the evap don't reach a desired temp or "overheat" at 0c for example, the system will shut down. As you already know the compressors have his own thermal protection, so if the compressor shut down, the thermal probe will sense the rising temp and will shut down the system.Quote:
Originally Posted by fatty
G-Froster X can handle 8A on norlmal compressor runing, but spikes of up to 90A on the start up. That would be perfect for more than 1 compresor.
You can allways add an external switch (high current relay) with better current handling hability, to controll bigger loads.
G-Froster X is perfet to attend you requirements, you can control the whole system, and check the themps of the 4 temp probes to make the compresors turn of in case of a failure. We´ll need a new fimrware, that i´m about to release anytime soon.
Ok no probs can you pm me cost and shipping to the uk also when the firmware will be available
I use a relay to ruin 2 compressors of gigher amperages.. I can throw one inthe next order if you want... I should have controllers in if you want to PM ssilencer and ask if he can ship yours i my next batch also...
Quote:
Originally Posted by chilly1
Good idea
Ssilencer & Golden_Eagle, hey guys long time no see.. Happy holidays :toast:
I still have to flash the firmware and install the software..:)
Happy holydays for all of you guys!Quote:
Originally Posted by REBEL900
I hope I can get online in my pc again in this year :(
Rebel900, thank you mate, btw I got the liquid electrical tape you sent me as a gift! thanks!!!
We will talk by msn anyday and do the update.
We need a page for the frosters as soon as possible, for the firmware updates, FAQs and etc.
so how soon will chilly1 have the new controllers? he told me 2weeks like a month and a half ago:(
Good job guys and thanks for all your work... :) :thumbsup:
Whats the 9v AC thing?Quote:
Originally Posted by dward3
can i run 220v right inn too it like its on the diagram?
The 9V thing represents a package transformer. Basically its the same type of device you might use to charge your cell phone with.
:banana: :woot:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ssilencer
That means mines next :)
Lol SURE!Quote:
Originally Posted by {.bLanK} GoD
Tomorrow I will get something that I need for your X, please, send me a msg by msn, I forgot to tell you somehtinhg I think.
Overklokk, you need a 220 to 9v 0.5A adapter for the value and a 220 to 15v 1A transformer for the Xe
can the X lcd be used on the Xe? that would be nice:)
The diagram shows the connection with an ac-ac adapter.Quote:
Originally Posted by Overklokk
You Must use it.
9Vac @ 500mA
Yes, but it would be useless since the firmware only shows 16x2 chars.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sneil
Btw, in case you still want to use the bigger lcd, you have to use a different wire.
For the people getting the G-Frosters Xe:
Quick installation guide in PDF
LCD's are IN!!!!! PM me with Updated shipping addresses for fast shipment!!!!
Or more suited for this application, a chassis mount transformer that can be purchased from a local electronics store. Something like that: http://jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/...23&pa=105523PS .Quote:
The 9V thing represents a package transformer. Basically its the same type of device you might use to charge your cell phone with.
However, a 9v chassis mount transformer is not that common so I think it'd be better it it were designed to use a 12.6v transformer, which can be purchased from Radio Shack. Or better yet, use the 5vsb line for power.
Chilly1, have you thought about a MOSFET inverter for compressor speed control in a high end version?
9v only for the Values, the X and Xe uses 15v, you can use a 7.5+7.5v transformer or a 18v transformer too.
We are now adding a new function: Controll an electronic valve from windows Froster software... it will take a litlle time, but I think it will be great.
Just ordered my 220v to 7.5+7.5vac 2.5amp tranny (lol). I need a bit of extra grunt for the large condensor fans. btw i love ur new avatar Ssilencer hehe
Thats great Mr Point :D
The froster he is getting is a special version, that can handle up to 2.5 amp for the fans, so, just 1A for Xe and 1.5A for the X are needed.
Is Chilly1 still the contact for purchasing in Canada and US?
My project is here:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...ad.php?t=87671
It has two discrete units. Air chill and liquid chill. Do you have the relay necessary for controlling two units from 1 GF?
Do any of the GF options operate as a t-stat? I am looking to leave my system on all the time and would like both units to cycle between set points. I already have the t-stats, just want to know if there would be any redundancy, and how the two would interact/ conflict.
Fan control would also be beneficial for me as I have two 120mm fans on the front of the case which I would like to be able to adjust according to temp of the compressor(s).
Also, to get cable access to the mobo, I have to run them into the chillbox through air tight ports...this requires a long run in some instances! How long are the cable/ wires?
I assume they are USB compadible now?
I don't have an electronics background.... :) this all look far too complicated...
It would have been great if the power supply could have been included in the unit.
Why 15v ac?
Quote:
Originally Posted by johann
--> IN agreement here. I guess it is matter of cost justification as parts prices are not best in the place where Golden Eagle is making these. Not to mention actual manufacturing cost going up once you start putting good quality power regulation in there... I am pretty sure he will work it out over time. (another thing might be the fact it is geared for both 110v and 220v crowd and complicates circuit finding right coils with right size.
PS) SSilencer on left and Golden eagle on right on the picture right? :)
dont forget shipping, power supplies weight twice as much as a froster does, so it would increase the shippings costs a lot. it makes no sense shipping them from here, when you can buy them there.
im pretty sure they are still serial.. well mine (still under construction) is anywayQuote:
Originally Posted by Shyfty
Hey shyfty, nice to see you here.
If you want special features for your controller, contact me by pm or msn, and yes, chilly1 manage the sales on the states.
Also, God is right (no pun intended, lol)
Coyote already answer for me, a transformer will double the shipping costs.
We will be going the usb way when we get time to finish research, also migrating to K type probes as soon as possible.
Pretty tough to buy something when there is no response. PM'd Chilly1 over a week ago for prices and nothing...
He's been really ill of late so you probably wont get a reply until he has recovered.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shyfty
G
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coyote
the transformers are heavy little buggers:mad:
in my had it feels like a kg, so much weight for such a little item.
Hey Ssilencer, if the Xe's need 15v to run after regulation would it be better to go with 18V??
ie what voltage are the regulators regulating the 15AC to DC wise?? 12v DC??
this one here is multi taped for 12v 15v and 18v i think ill be using 18v:toast:
It´s better if you use 15v. If you use 18v, the regulator will be disipating more power without any benefit.
Controller works with 12v dc, after regulation.