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:rolleyes: Tec's are over with. Phase is for a single source. Chillers can go to -what ever you want. You insilate accordingly. Don't take me the wrong way, I have read, and read, and read, and built a couple and have figured out the do's and don'ts only a little bit on phase and chilling. GL to you. :toast:Quote:
Originally Posted by AliG
No, i won't deprive me a joy to design and build this myself :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Starkiller42
I have joined the watercooling community 5 month ago. My WC cooled server is running non-stop over 3 month already and i am starting to feel very boring :)
is it just me or is chilled water kinda messy :)
It's not messy... you just need to insulate well if you chill below ambient temp.
i've just never seen one that looked "nice"
That's because the builders are letting you peek inside of their units. Outside, they can look just as nice as any ss system can.
lol you mean like with the case closed an no windows? of coarse it would look fine
rofl lmfao
i could put a bag of crap inside the case and close it and it would look fine
Well then, problem solved! Out of sight, out of mind...
AC Chiller; Build 2
Final build of my socket 478 chiller. Lazy & no oc benefit from subzero = no insulation. Thermometer monitored and ac unit cycled manually (via remote control).
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i2...o/CIMG0032.jpg
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i2...o/CIMG0037.jpg
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i2...o/CIMG0038.jpg
Extreme machine 8-)
Looks like a nice unit, Modzilla! I like the matching colors; makes a converted AC look a lot more professrional!
Go get some insulation and cover that thing up; we want temps! Tubing insulation is super cheap at ~$2 /6ft length at lowes.
Modzilla's build thread is here and the title sure as heck speaks for itself. ;)
This is what improper a/c chilling looks like. :-/ Can handle 2900xt's at -20 C liquid temp, x1900's at -32ish.
Hey Gautam, as far as I'm concerned, beauty in function far exceeds beauty in form. And that chiller of yours is a beast :D.
thats a nice solution you made modzilla, what are your temps?
Depends who designs them and what they are for.Quote:
Originally Posted by AliG
Insulate to stop condensation, add glycol or methanol to stop it freezing.Quote:
Originally Posted by AliG
Plastics are better insulators than metals.Quote:
Originally Posted by AliG
Most chillers are 'phase change' (refrigeration) units, heat pipes use phase change, liquid nitrongen and dry ice are phase change.Quote:
Originally Posted by AliG
With the heat output on modern CPUs getting subzero on TEC is tricky with direct die and even harder in a TEC chiller.Quote:
Originally Posted by AliG
Isn't lower temps and higher clocks the point of most active cooling methods and why we do worry about it?Quote:
Originally Posted by AliG
Since my Swiftech MCW6000-NX hadn't turned up I needed something else to tinker with. I decided to explore the FSB limit and found it to be around 450. i.e. when the system temperature goes much above 40C I get 'delayed write failed' errors, choppy performance and the system often hangs. I got into windows at 480MHz. So the system can handle it if I can deal with the heat. So to alleviate this I followed up an idea I'd had for chilling the rest of my system partially successful experiment involved strapping an HDD water block to my RM1 and sandwiching 6 56/91W TEC1-12706 in between.
This is the block with the TECs:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2028/...ebb069.jpg?v=0
The RM1 was plumbed into the main cooling loop and the HDD block took it's place in the secondary loop.
Some previous testing on these TECs had shown me that they drew around 6A at 5V. I was planning to run them from the PSU's 5V line but it couldn't source enough current. With them all connected it drooped to 4.4V and only gave a dT of -5C without the PC on. Basically it held the water in the secondary loop at ambient while heating the primary. Not quite what I expected from 112/180W of TEC.
So it looks like I need more power. An old ATX or AT PSU should suffice if I run it in parallel with the Antec. 60A should be enough for the TECs and the system. I tried running it off the auxiliary PSU at 12.6V but it got to hot for the RM1 to shift (6mm ID ports) and ended up with a positive dT.
What is the advertised voltage range for that TEC?Quote:
Originally Posted by initialised
That's where I am, just a few months behind your progress, heh. 480x8. I wanna get it stable. Time for chilled water...Quote:
Originally Posted by initialised
An improvement on my previous A/C chiller build:
Link to build thread: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=173895
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i2...o/DSCN0206.jpg
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i2...o/DSCN0202.jpg
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i2...o/CIMG0583.jpg
That's my chiller :D Made from an dehumidifer that cost me 10 EUR's: http://www.newwidetech.com/WDH-912H-916D-920H.htm
Orignaly, the look was:
http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/1...0651wp2.th.jpg http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/2...0650eq9.th.jpg http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/7...0649sl0.th.jpg http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/1...0648iy4.th.jpg
Actually, didn't have to make much changes. The appearance is basically the same. Just drilled some holes, moved some parts, soldered the control chip and added a pump. Now it is easily connectable to any system. Because of a condensation, it has been set to keep the temp of the liquid between 12,5 and 14 degrees celsius. And because of a grate amount of liquid (8 liters), the compressor works only ~50% of the time. And it is quiet.
It is capable of doing much more. The test was made in August (+23c, 17l of water and no insulation).
http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/8...0728it9.th.jpg http://img460.imageshack.us/img460/6...0738wy5.th.jpg
New look: (I added thouse diods only because to have some resisdance for the tiny PSU I mounted under the hood).
http://img126.imageshack.us/img126/1...0823au5.th.jpg http://img126.imageshack.us/img126/5...0824eb6.th.jpg http://img126.imageshack.us/img126/5...0826dv2.th.jpg http://img126.imageshack.us/img126/1...0918gd6.th.jpg http://img126.imageshack.us/img126/1...0920xq0.th.jpg http://img126.imageshack.us/img126/2...0922cl2.th.jpg http://img126.imageshack.us/img126/8...0930jb8.th.jpg
It was possible (was, because at the moment I have a Prometeia for CPU as well) to cool down my E6700@3,8 Ghz, NB, SB, Mem and 2X OC'd GF6600GT.
Total cost ~50 EUR's :up:
I'm just curious, do you guys have phase change for 24/7 run?
It can be or just for benching :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by aoch88
@modzilla - that thing is a BEAST! Kudos to you. :clap:
The nylon strap tiedowns are a excellent touch. :D
O.o so much extreme cooling :P
nice setups !
Hi Guys
i come across this
http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/5645/dsc00932tb3.jpg
from this
http://img238.imageshack.us/img238/7203/dsc00935gz3.jpg
any good for a watet chiller
Thanks
Please Make me one.... :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Sc4mpi
first of all remove thermostatQuote:
Originally Posted by day187
direct conect comp :D
use any thermo to monitor temps .
comp like mine
:) i have an lg uses r134a
ma75laeg model
temps after while about -9
i have pump only
i need tubing and home made waterblock :ROTF:
i want to build a pc exactly like that! how did you fit it all in there! what are your tempsQuote:
Originally Posted by Sc4mpi
the better question is why would you have a water chiller hooked up to the radiator unless you wanted to lower dew point inside the case?
I don't have anything hooked up to mine at the moment, but it's pretty beastly to look at. It's a 10,000BTU R22 unit, and the best part is that I found it in the garbage!
Here's a picture of the final unit with the controls moved to the top, and rewiring done:
Attachment 81135
@Noob-ftw
Any pics from the inside or do you have a worklog for it?
Nice color, btw.
Here's the semi-worklog:
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ng-making.html
I honestly love the Orange :)
And that condensor is Bloody Massive! :p
What are the temp gains with these type of units? I am thinking that I want to put one together, but I have zero experience. Is there a good, noob-ish build guide around?
+ 1Quote:
Originally Posted by bmilos
very nice systems!!! ahh so want something like this but im a nooob :)
Sub-ambient but not sub-zero chiller:
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i2...o/CIMG1306.jpg
Build thread here:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=212891
Chiller + peltier together looks much better for me :) Chiller is for GPU only:
http://static2.nagi.ee/i/p/379/9/09477269145b4f_o.jpg
http://static2.nagi.ee/i/p/379/9/094772653b1b82_o.jpg
Hello everyone what do you guys think about using this XSPC 250 Passive Aluminium Reservoir - Black with a chiller?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=22010
I read some reviews and it only drops the temperature by about 1*, and so while it is aluminium and having fins there won't be a fan turning to blow hotter ambient air upon it.
Do you think this will negate the chiller's colder temps., or that I should opt to get out of the shiny black or silver metal with chrome accents & plexiglass look and go with an all plexiglass look and get 1* or more chilling?
Any ideas ???
Plan.B
Thats great ! :up:
:D :D :D extreme liquid cooling..
Nope, sorry.Quote:
Originally Posted by thunder_2008
If you use one of those it will only warm the water up and not cooling it. Its because the water is cooler than the air around it (the ambient temperature). Thats why you shouldnt have a radiator in your loop when using a water chiller :).
In a normal water cooling setup it should work quite well though :). You can also get a silent radiator exactly like that called a reserator, Zalman usually make them.
Hope that helps :up:
James
@Noob-ftw
Loving that orange paint
Technically chilled, but far from ideal chiller performance, and lacking insulation. Under load, with rad fans turned off, it is sub ambient only. Ugly, but it works.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i2...o/CIMG1541.jpg
why do you use aditional Radiator? i think it decrease the perfomance of ur chiller.
so I can crunch wcg 24/7 watercooled, so I don't have to run the chiller 24/7
hehehe Hybrid setup For avoid higher energy bills :P
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sc4mpi
very nice case mod to used with a water chiller. what kind of case did you used for the bottom one? :clap:
My chiller setup
Chiller from STOCK window aircon unit.
NOT modified unit :)
Just put evaporator into insulated box and that's all :)
http://www.xdevs.com/images/chiller/begin.jpghttp://www.xdevs.com/images/3sli/balcon.jpg
http://www.xdevs.com/images/chiller/2.jpg
http://www.xdevs.com/images/chiller/ice1.jpg
http://xtremelabs.org/forums/downloa...=280&mode=view
Here is my chiller just got it working currently testing final water temp and awaiting pump/waterblock
This started off as a 15,000 btu window unit from the early 90s. The liquid is purple windshield washer fluid rated for -37c. I still have some fine tuning to do but its a start.
http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/a...icture0059.jpg
Overall view kinda a ghetto rig (the speaker box in the pic is there to block the wind form the condenser the fan had to blow backwards to get it all there).
http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/a...icture0060.jpg
the first frost
http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/a...icture0061.jpg
the top of my evap the cooler was a little too small
Wow, that is sexy! Any build log or results anywhere?
+1:clap:Quote:
Originally Posted by tool_462
:shocked: That has to be the best looking chiller I've ever seen......... How much????
very very nice man, i like that!
@ulticool, man thats sexy!
looks like a powerplant
Nice compact build :) Any more details/pics?Quote:
Originally Posted by CESAJANS
wow. impressive buildQuote:
Originally Posted by CESAJANS
Here: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=251015 :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by wez
That is great work! :clap:
Hey
Not The Best Looking , But It works , , RealTemp Says -10 Idle , 5ghz i3 560 , takes about 45 mins for chiller to drop water/pg to - 10C 50:50 ratio , after that I get frost build up all along suction line and temp doesn't go any lower by much , MB runs Kinda warm though not sure if thats bad .
My waterchiller made by stelios
What amount of time you have to change towels (isolation)?
Great cooling.
wanted to make one my self for my 975ee , guys if i dont want the water to freeze and say i want it to be like 15c --then will condensation still happen ...or later at a stage i want it to go below 0 ..in summers .Quote:
Originally Posted by chaotic
where will condensation occur - on the cpu block or what .
and how do i make this in conju nction to work with my exsisting water cooling set up
Condensation happens whenever something is colder than the dewpoint of the surrounding air. The dewpoint rises or falls depending on how high the humidity is...the more humid it is, the higher the dewpoint, and the higher a temperature you need to maintain to avoid condensation.Quote:
Originally Posted by muhd86
Places were condensation can occur include the CPU, the waterblocks, any hoses, fittings, coldplates, etc., etc. If there's water tight insulation on something cold, then the moisture in the air can't get to it, so condensation doesn't form. Insulation works because the side of the insulation next to the cold item isn't exposed to air, and the side of the insulation that is exposed to air (and humidity) is several degrees warmer (hopefully, above the dew point temperature, whatever that happens to be).
Air conditioned air is usually very dry, so the dewpoint will usually be much lower inside an air conditioned building than it is outside in the heat and humidity. But you'll notice that condesation will form on a glass or bottle of a very cold beverage even in an air conditioned room, so there are limits to everything.