This is a PERFECT contact M8..... :DQuote:
Originally Posted by matose
Printable View
This is a PERFECT contact M8..... :DQuote:
Originally Posted by matose
Too late now :D
:rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by hipro5
Tried the board today on LN2 but it seems this particular card isn't that strong: 3DMark2003 at 1330 - 1340MHz @ full pot @ 1.56v
The board is without IHS, perfect contact because even with the pot full the temperature was going up under LOAD.
I don't think the TIM is the problem here, because:
- the card scaled with cold
- the card scaled with voltage
- I got 1250MHz stable in 3DMark2003 with 1.44v and -110 degrees which isn't that great from what I saw here
Tried also with PLL from 1.25v to 1.35v and the memory works good up to 1350MHz, so no problem here. What do you guys think?
P.S: Too bad about the 2500K that was running 5800MHz 4 cores @ 1.625v all the time :(
How was it failing at higher clocks? Memory? Core problems? I didn't get any better results on 480 Lightning with IHS off.
Usually it was freeze and then continue running after a couple of second with screen corruption (textures missing, crappy FPS). Every time I could get back into Win without restart (the clocks were kept though). I didn't have any CB or CBB...
I tried with -160, -170, -180 and it was perfectly scaling; with some card I experienced problems when they were too cold.
The IHS removal was very good move, I never had so good contact like today :)
Yea no doubt contact is much better, seems a little easier to encounter memory issues though, cold gets there easier.
Splave what's up man, hit 1700 yet on that thing?
Tried it yesterday on LN2 with OCP and CBB mods done, core voltage setting via SmartDoctor, IHS still on and Arxtic Cooling MX3 paste. I'm getting instant black screen below -130 - it can boot fine below that temp but once the driver loads it's just black screen until I heat up. Is this the kind of problems I would have without OCZ Freeze?
Black screen under load or in 2D?
Both under load and in 2D. When I reboot below -130 I get the windows loading animation, logon screen flashes for a split second, then the screen goes black. Vgpu stays fine, it just displays black.
I think the problem is that vGPU is too low in 2D. If you do +0.4v mod everything should be fine. Either that or your card can't handle low temps!
DON'T use the MX3 under cold....It's really CRAP.....Try the MX2 instead..... ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by G.Foyle
Try lower your memories and retry....
wow that does looks super powdery almost like confectioners sugar:eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by Splave
Wuts with the tweated usernames? DB got screwedup?
WOT - WOT??........I'm FUGGER - the BIG admin...... :D
Behave OR I'll ban you all...... :D
EDIT: Oppssss!....... Then who's hipro5?....
Hilarious!
hipro5 has been captured by my people and is on his way to Hawaii for OC4 Japan Fundraiser. He will sing "Never gonna give you up" livestreamed from the beach :yepp:Quote:
Originally Posted by hipro5
Happy 1st of april!
:D
Dunno if I can deal with the "Smithing" of XS admin, it's too weird!
:DQuote:
Originally Posted by SF3D
EXCUSE me!..........IF I AM FUGGER, then who are you?........ :eek:
:ROTF: , happy april fools day everyone :rofl:
loving every minute of it, happy april fools day people:ROTF:
haha LMAO :ROTF:
€: how it comes - must be a time machine - I'm an old man now :eek: :D
lets see if this helps with no lid :up:
I am THE RealFUGGER! All others are cheating.Quote:
Originally Posted by hipro5
Nice Indium!Quote:
Originally Posted by Splave
In theory that would be the best choice, but in my case the contact were never good enough. If you can make good contact with it, it should rock!
Yeah, it's clearly 1st of april. I really fooled myself today.
We will have that another baby any second now, so I requested some short time to do bencing and got it. Then I did some HWbot heaven benching.
http://sf3d.pp.fi/images/ASUS%20GTX%...%201465Mhz.png
After that run I realized that score sucks and the reason was very old driver :rofl: Ln2 is used.
I feel a bit dumb now :D
Cool, awaiting your results. Read about how they prep this stuff before each mount when used on cryo equipment, but you wont have to do that yet, it's brand new.Quote:
Originally Posted by Splave
how much was it splave?
Thanks Hipro and SF3D for suggestions :up:
But something is still amiss, I'm having similar problems as Ronaldo.
Just blew another 15 l of LN2 on this card, using Arctic Cooling MX-2, with IHS still on, +400 mv VID mod, both OCP mods and CBB mod.
I get blue, black, gray and white screens when under -80 and above 1200 MHz. I never get any stars or black textures in Unigine - sometimes it passes 24 of 26 stages at 1350/1300, then suddenly a gray screen. It seems completely independent of temperature, voltage... (-80 to -160, 1,3 to 1,55 V, same random screens of death).
A reference card we got at MOA Poland did better :(
EDIT: just saw a new kind of screen of death: orange!
Try different paste, seems like contact problem or really bad card
Yeah. Colorful screens are a symptom of overheating. 1.55V and 1350MHz is huge load and bad paste will loose it's ability to transfer heat to pot. Then you will have these symptoms.
Your card might not be the best sample. That is one possibility of course.
E: I made expample pic of the situation. I pushed two Nvidia HS plates together with heavy force and then cooled them down to around -190C. In some point during the cooldown you can clearly hear when the plates loose contact and you can just lift the other part away. Other side was like that. (Paste is crappy ceramique, avoid it)
http://sf3d.pp.fi/images/ASUS%20GTX%...too%20cold.jpg
If you have bad paste it's much better to bench at -80 or -100 the most. Under -120 the chances that the paste will be like Petri's picture is very high!
Antec Formula 7 stay ok until -190 C?
$180 cause it was a "sample" and they keep trying to make me buy more lolQuote:
Originally Posted by dinos22
ME4ME tested Formula 7 on ln2, 980X with CB ~-135 in vantage cputest. Max cpu clock:Quote:
Originally Posted by matose
http://www.nordichardware.se/images/...es/LN2test.jpg
@SF3D:
I have never seen something like this happening to our years long used AC MX-2 Paste.
But since the comparisons we also use the Freeze to be on the save side
Weird because I saw many favorable reports for AF7
I thought there Ceramique was beginning to lose its appeal because it has a higher viscosity and is fairly solid as "hot" as -115? I tried Titan Blue and even immediately after I removed the pot, it was still thin and quite fluid.
IIRC, my best 3D05 MHz have been with Titan Blue by ~75MHz, but i'm not gonna say 100% thats not because of degradation since or bad luck or whatever
Question... do you guys let the card (or CPU) warm up with the pot attached, before benching? I always do that to allow the thermal paste spread out as evenly as possible and also ensures no bad mounts......
bulls eye :DQuote:
Originally Posted by K404
Did try Formula 6 and 7, IC7 Diamond and same issues.
Did remove heatspreader and lots of artifacts (:shrug:)...then give up, and put again heat spreader...
I am almost sure that is the limit of mine card...
would like to buy OCZ Freeze, but look for Elmor and his friends bought all sock from OCZ...lol
This is a best result i got.
http://i55.tinypic.com/sbhod0.jpg
and at vantage max 1270/1200 (less than mine reference GTX 580 that reached 1275/1262)
Did try all and all range voltages and temperatures settings
Who can sell me OCZ freeze???.....lol
It's also not easy to get the OCZ Freeze here in germany.
Just two Shops have them on thier Websites, just one Shop has it in Stock and yesterday I ordered 2 pcs so they no more have it in stock :D
so easy? How much was the clock gain?Quote:
Originally Posted by T_M
Nothing, it was dead already :P
did u tested with any alive card?
Or can someone say if the card is better clocking ofter the removal?
It's supposed to be, but on some cards it's very risky to remove even with heat
So it's not enough to cut the glue around the core, like on GTX280? The paste is a bit adhesive?
For the right price I will sell you anything! :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by rbuass
video from T_M i think shows alot of infoQuote:
Originally Posted by G.Foyle
http://teamau.net/509
You must heat it, then use a sharp knife / cutter and insert it between the GPU's PCB and IHS. Some will pop very easy, some will not...Quote:
Originally Posted by G.Foyle
The new batches of GPU's are glued differently and it's more difficult to pop off. The DCU II I have was old batch but the Lightning is new batch
here is indium on Core mounted :) gave it acid wash first.
To mount it I wet a qtip with a very small amount of acetone, and slightly moistened the GPU core so sheet would stick. Put pot on and heat up to 100c and then cool down to room temp
I doubt it will have the desired effect your looking for splave.Quote:
Originally Posted by Splave
When used as a tim it is soldered directly to core not just placed on. They use concentrated heat and it gets heated melts and cooled extremely fast.
the only way i could see it could be used safely is to solder the IHS to pot then use paste on core but.......back to square 1 when doing that. The entire point is just to eliminate thermal barriers.
That stuff has a preety high melt point. Unsafe if we are talking heating a pot up to solder to core.
Few times I have removed IHS's that use indium it has been enough to desolder pins.......which means the heat required would also be enough to desolder the BGA package.
What you can try is a little blow torch with indium on core place IHS on concentrate heat at center of IHS, have a pot cooled with ln2 ready to place on as soon as you think its melted to bring it back to a safe temp.....still risky though and still sort of defeats the purpose.
Looking flashy and expensive :D Damn I hope this works for you. I want to see 1700+ core!Quote:
Originally Posted by Splave
Would have been interesting to have had a temp probe on the back of the PCB to measure the PCB temperatures between the changes. Good luck!
I see what you are saying. But this stuff is maybe a bit thicker then what you used. Kinda seems more like an advanced thermal pad that squishes under pressure a little bit. Idk we'll see, if not back to freeze.Quote:
Originally Posted by chew*
Gallium might be worth considering for this. Melts at room temperature and still has a higher thermal conductivity than thermal paste. Only problem is it expands when it solidifies so you might run into an issue with it cracking when expanding.
hire is my Indium Price
100mmX100mm =10000mm² 109€/100cm²=1,09€ je cm²
250mmX250mm =62500mm² 310€/625cm²~0,50€ je cm²
it is 0.1 mm
I'm thinking about to order 250x250mm when the tests here positive
only one way to find out splave :D
Looking forward to seeing the results - and fingers crossed for ya man :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by dinos22
Indium producers all around the world are going to be scratching their heads about where all the extra consumption is going if this works :rofl: Might have to head out and buy shares :D
vantage tonight for sure :) I have to empty my 50L so I can fill it again err something like that! :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by dinos22
it isn't as special as we think
in the Laser industries it is also used to connect cooler with the heat source
Make sure you only get like 3L or something, it will be much more impressive that way! :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by Splave
Splave, what VID has your card? Trying to find some kind of conection for <1400MHz cards and >1500MHz cards
I am waiting to see if you can make good contact with that :)
There might be some differences in these indium foils, cause the one I have now, is not the same as our foil was before.
My current foil is definitely not the correct type for this purpose.
I got new Antec PSU's and they rock!
ASUS GTX 580 Direct CU II @ 1500MHz/1300MHz
http://sf3d.pp.fi/images/ASUS%20GTX%...%201500mhz.png
I think I am ready to keep my break now..13 days to expected date of confinement now :)
I have got some time for few OC sessions with special permission from my fiancee. Thanks Suvi!
Wait, I think if I used that PSU my GPU wouldn't go that high anyway. Takes modding, experience, luck, and dedication. It ain't the PSU. :rotf: ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by SF3D
Great run. :up:
two psus for a single gpu? lol
have you guys looked at your 12v rail when you have CPU and one of the GPUs working off of it
There's an 800W spike of power consumption when starting Heaven even on air...
I think what linux is saying is that having 2 psu's is not going to polish a turd.....if a card is doing 1150 it probably sucks and 1 PSU is enough.Quote:
Originally Posted by G.Foyle
As far as SF3D using 2 PSU, its preety simple, thats a multi rail PSU with XX amp limit per rail. Maybe he wanted to dedicate each PSU's rail to one power connector on a card.
Seems it would make more sense on a single rail PSU though if you wanted to increase amperage though.
1 PSU to system
1 PSU to 1 GPU (2x8pin)
That is the way I use them.
These GPU's suck so much power with those settings, that you really need to have a good quality PSU.
PWM part on the card should be actively cooled with strong fans as well.
seen that too...Quote:
Originally Posted by G.Foyle
i was just kiddin.. elmor has been usin that single rail cmspg1200 for quite awhile.Quote:
Originally Posted by SF3D
nickshih should chime in bout the damn hcp1200 :D
Nice hardw... effort! Really nice! :toast: Good way to go in to the break :)Quote:
Originally Posted by SF3D
Indeed! Thanks for all the help Marcus!Quote:
Originally Posted by Kinc
But only real effort was the creation of my new thermal paste :D Maybe I will start to sell it as well :cool:
indium sucked lol couldnt even pass 1400 in 03 so I quit, mount looked good idk maybe need to solder it to the core next time
I wish I was wrong, You will be my hero if you manages to solder it without killing anything in fact just for attempting it :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Splave
That's a shame. Perhaps sacrifice another GPU first before you try it with your crazy 580.Quote:
Originally Posted by Splave
Def, going to to try on 8800GTX with IHS...Then if it works well I will try with it off :X
lol :D
the final sacrifice hihi
I popped the lid on our sample and found air bubbles :( The paste was also hard as a rock, it was very hard to remove it.
Sadly it didn't help me one bit with the clocks, BUT at least I can now bench full pot at known stable clocks without colored screens every now and then - just driver resets when I go too high.
I had small drop of ln2 left. Decided to try vantage GT 2 and 1500MHz was easy. 1530MHz run was fine until ln2 ended during the large explosion in GT2. Pot heated up very quickly so that run did not pass.
I think 1550MHz will be possible in 3Dmark Vantage.
Now I will try to get one more bench session, before my short break. Timing is so annoying :)
http://sf3d.pp.fi/images/ASUS%20GTX%...0mhz%20gt2.jpg
great GPU :D what volts and temps does she like? Over 1.58 in dx10ordx11 is not happy
made the cbb mod yesterday on my gtx580 directcu ii which allowed me to boot lower than -60 degree celsius withou any issues.
i still cant go lower than -115 as the display turned black, no matter during idle/load, stock voltage up to 1,5v.
any solution for that or does my card have a coldbug under -115 degree?
thanks for your suggestions :)
as the card scales well with volt (1,38v for 1300mhz 3dmark03 and 1,45v for 1300mhz heaven stable) i would love to check, if it scales with more cold as well.
^^^^ stock bios.? or did you try this one...
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...1&postcount=64
hey dualist.
i think, i used exactly this bios. bios version in gpuz is 70.10.17.00.00
edit:
just figured out, that my mod got loose... just 2 points were connected.... will test again and report back.
edit2:
resoldered the cbb mod and i still have the same issues... black screen below -115 degree
is it possible, my card just has a coldbug?
If Temp < -100° C i have artifact, seems a memory problem and the same thing about two CU II and a EVGA 580. Someone else has ever had similar problems? I have to warm up to -80, start doing bench and bring the temperature gradually over the -100 ° C . If it crashes I have to do it all again by heating the pot.
BR
Roberto
You must set over 1.75v VMEM in order to bench under -100 ;)
i set 1.80 or 1.86 ... same problem :( , i use this meme vmod http://www.xtremeshack.com/immagine/i80254_13790929.jpg
1627/1325 card all of a sudden wont even pull through 03 at 1175/1100 anymore :X good mount too, kinda sux :) guess its time for lightning?
Maybe SOC? Elmor put some nice scores
Same thing happened to junior-21 card.Last time was running unigine @1490Mhz and now only 1300.Removed the heatspreader and changed the crappy paste but didn't help.Quote:
Originally Posted by Splave
The most strange thing is that it used to have CB at -170 and now it doesn't have any(plays full pot).
I guess you will keep that WR for a little longer:p:
Hi guys a question...
Does anybody haves issues like a big Vdrop in the middle of benchmark.
System crashes lots and lots of times, and i think is cause a higger vdrop.
For exemple...
Did set 1.52V at 3D mode, but when system in full load (Vantage), voltage was changed and changed (1.45...1.46...1.41...1.45... and all time changing).
All mods done (VID, PLL, RAM, GPU, OCP Overall and Per Phase, CBB and did try 3 BIOS ).
I am almost give up this card...
System crashes green screen, red screen, black screen with only mouse pointer, and many times system crash less than 10 seconds to the end...
Can't go 1300/1200 +
Used ... 1.35 ~ 1.6V GPU (always vdrop)
RAM 1.98V - fixed to 1200 ~1250 is ok
PLL - 1.33V but system works better PLL at stock
If anybody haves some idea to fix this Vdrop issue, a will apreciatte so much....
I saw lots of times...for exemple...system running ok at 1.45V (exemple - full load)...then system crash imediatly when voltage jumped to 1.52V (exemple).
regards and sorry the awful english
How have you been able to give the card more juice than 1.21v???