My EK 280 block didnt come with a back plate. The etailer doesnt even offer them it appears.
Will I be ok with using some spare "Swiftech MC14 VGA Forged Copper Ramsinks" I have on it?
http://www.acousticpc.com/images/a_s...sinks_mc14.jpg
Printable View
My EK 280 block didnt come with a back plate. The etailer doesnt even offer them it appears.
Will I be ok with using some spare "Swiftech MC14 VGA Forged Copper Ramsinks" I have on it?
http://www.acousticpc.com/images/a_s...sinks_mc14.jpg
Yes it's ok. I'm sure that's better than the EK back plate.
Are there any US retailers for that back plate yet?
EK RAM backplate arrived friday no time to install it yet... will take some piccies tomorrow
Yes plz... :) Pictures .Pictures...Pictures :)
It's the black alu backplate guys, it's on the EK online shop... ordered it via ekwaterblocks.com and 3 days later it's here (like always very fast shipping)
will install it today and take some piccies lads...
http://users.pandora.be/OAP/P5QDlx/EKBP1.jpg
http://users.pandora.be/OAP/P5QDlx/EKBP2.jpg
http://users.pandora.be/OAP/P5QDlx/EKBP3.jpg
http://users.pandora.be/OAP/P5QDlx/EKBP4.jpg
Backplate has slightly longer screws then the ones from the waterblock...installation is a no brainer...and can be done witout removing the waterblock.... I opted for the Alu backplate as a waterblock on top would have left me very narrow space with the top PCI slot on my P5Q dlx mobo and to avoid the added weight of a copper block ... secondly I have ran the rams barenaked at 1250mhz for a few weeks now, just a 25cm fan in the sidepanel blew some fresh air over them... no hickups there... with the backplate the card is straight and doesn't bend at all...
Top ace job again Eddie !! Clean, sleek and nicel done...
Looks and design is ofcourse personal... I like them as they will do the job nicely...
Just went to Eddy's site and checked them out I have to say they are quite simple and elegant. Very nice.
My pair of EK also arrive today.
Both the block and back plate are nice pieces, and actually I have received the original cutie snail head version. I do indeed find this snail more 'Happy' :ROTF::ROTF: Thanks to Eddie !!!!!
Yet I'm curious why the snail was once abandoned and somehow revitalised.
Can someone give me some advice. I have been building systems and watercooling for years and have never had any major problems. This weeks I bought three EK Waterblocks for my three GTX 280 cards, which I have been running on air in tri-sli. I fitted the blocks (carefully I thought) and put them back in my loop. I always run the loop first to ensure no leaks then attach the cards to the motherboard. After a day of leak testing I was horrified to find only one of the three cards was working. I have now tested each card individually and confirmed that only one is working, the system will not even boot with the other two!! Before I buy two more cards does anyone have any ideas or hints as to what I did wrong. BTW I have now ordered three EK Alu backplates from EK.
What thermal paste did you use on your GTX's?
One of your cards works, so there must be something wrong to the installation on the others.
If there were mis-contact, it should still run 1-2 minutes from cool before the system shut down by itself (8800 does that, and GTX280 is not hotter than 8800 on idle). Have you noticed any burnt mark/smell? Suggest try back the stock fan block to see if they can still operate first.
Hmm. I was thinking that maybe the TIM you used was conductive and maybe shorted your cards but the OCZ Freeze is non-conductive.
Edit1: Opps, I need to read.
Maybe something shorted them out. TBH, not sure exactly how or what is causing your cards to not power on. :confused:
Yes, but with such a high failure rate I am a bit concerned. Do I need to use the spacer on both sides of the block, I am assuming that only the copper side needs them? In any event the thread on the SLi connectors I used is so short that I could not fit a spacer even on the copper side of the block. What you say about at least getting a signal for a short while is true, that is why I am confused. I will try again when I get the backplates. Any other help/insights would be appreciated such as how tightly I should attach the blocks. My main concern when attaching the block is making sure that the smaller NVIO chip is getting good contact, as I know that this chip runs very hot.
The paper spacer obviously helps to increase the holding area and avoid damaging the screw holes/card for taking the block weight.
Sorry, I don't quite understand what you meant by "the thread on the SLi connectors I used is so short that I could not fit a spacer even on the copper side of the block". Anyhow, it does not sound like to be the cause of card damage.
There are successors who run the card properly even without the back plate. I was also once reminded that the block is designed to leave specific gap distance between the block and the NVIO chip, for GTX280 should be 0.5mm, thats the same thickness of the thermal pad which comes with. It was 1mm thick gap/pad for 8800 instead. Block attachment shall never be too tight causing obvious bending.......Same, this should also not be the issue to cause your problem.....
Other than the card is already short-circulted anyhow, or other significant physical damage to any chips, my last guess will be an excessive TIM was applied on the core which the card was over bended to feed the screws.
Really should re-install the stock fan next and RMA them as first priority if needed and possible. Wish you luck.
There is a metal spacer, which is used to shorten the thread on the barbs. On the copper side of the block the threading is not as deep as on the other side, the spacer stops the thread on the barb intefering with the liquid flow (I assume!!) On some of the fittings I have the thread is very short and so a spacer is not needed, on the 1/2" barbs I use a spacer as the thread is longer on these. My block did not come with any paper spacers for the screws, should it have?
Tyke, were you using Toughpower1200W for GTX280 tri sli when they were still with the stock fans? For how long?
The PSU manual recommends same rail on one card, and tri sli GTX280 will leave you no choice to run the third card with one 6-pins on 12V3 rail and the 8-pins on 12V4 rail instead, which is not recommended. Could this be a problem that I'm really not sure.
Any instructions or tips on connecting the blocks for the 280 in SLI? Do you just use a tube and clamps or is there some other fitting to make it easier?
That's a good point, it had occurred to me. However the Toughpower 1200W is one of the few units on the NVidia GTX 280 Tri-Sli approved list! I might try and track down a Turbo Cool 1200W, although they are ridiculously expensive.
EDIT: I've just seen that the Toughpower 1500W runs all four cards on separate rails, so that may be an option.
http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/cata...hp?cPath=39_51
I use the variable SLi connectors shown here. The metal tube in the middle slides into rubber seals in the fittings at each end enabling you to vary the length. They have worked fine for me.
I mixed up with the mofset. Right, thermal paste for NVIO.
Some news about the release of the ram block of the EK FC-gtx280 ?
I speak about the waterblock
I noticed if you push them at 1250 and more they get pretty hot Tyke... so I opted like you for an extra safety....
Hi Tyke,
Are your 1200W Toughpower and the GTX280s still working?
PP
After 1 month, I had some doubt that Ek release the waterblock for the ram on the gtx280 but finally, He will dot it :clap:
"Hi!
We will have the block ready few days.
Enduser price from 55 EUR.
Eddy"
Some pics that Eddy send me kindly :
http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/2...kit1cs0.th.jpg
http://img103.imageshack.us/img103/2...xkiteo1.th.jpg
http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/1...ack1uk8.th.jpg
http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/3...backdq8.th.jpg
http://img355.imageshack.us/img355/7...it11ms8.th.jpg
http://img93.imageshack.us/img93/952...kkitoz4.th.jpg
Nice work :up:
Wowzers...thats one hell of a block!
Excellent timing, will ge me two off those later when my second stepup 280 arrives and it is time to put on WC-block on them. That block is why i did choose EK over DD or EVGA:s own block.
Where's the 4870 ek block? it looks like DD might beat EK to the punch again.
http://ekwaterblocks.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=289&osCsid=f3525ebfd3 65d1badace6ef748f10df7
And it is not really new ...
They just posted them in stock today, hurry up they will prob go fast
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/78...html?tl=g30c87
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/78...html?tl=g30c87
Very nice I was wondering about the ram waterblock too. I assume overall it is too thick to be 1 slot, just to confirm the EK block is 1 slot with ram sink but not with ram water block?
Any results yet? I have been waiting.:DQuote:
I've just ordered three Danger Den Tietons with copper ram plate, they should be here Monday. Then I will test them against the EK block with ram plate, my EK ram plates should be here early next week as well.
I remember in another thread some issues people were having with watercooling the 4870. Does the EK block cover all the necessary chips properly? IIRC there was more than just the mosfets that needed cooled.
eddy any word on a 4870x2 waterblock?
Have you a link, please ?
Edit : ram block available http://ekwaterblocks.com/shop/produc...roducts_id=299
1st :cheer:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...highlight=4870
Not sure what the GTX280 ram block has to do with the 4870 and my question? :confused:
Install the thing man!:up:
Lol if I could drain, take apart, rebuild and leak test in a lunch hour you would have your install pics :D
But if I don't get a speeding ticket around 5:00 illbe a happy camper muahah
If it is not working on the rampage, it will not work on my maximus and on a lot of mobo. I will have the response this week
Edit : I've seen different pictures and I think (hope) It should fit. But that's true that the ram slot will be very closed from the waterblock.
I've also got the nickel 4870 block on the way. They're scarce tho! None at petra's, none in OZ, none in stock at EK!:shocked:
PPCs had them tho :up:
Some pics which show how small place is there ( gpu - mem slots on mobo ):
http://img398.imageshack.us/img398/7355/dscf0279sp2.jpg
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/9381/dscf0280hf1.jpg
http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/4058/dscf0281ko0.jpg
That will be great :) because this is very important info for me.
You're lucky : I juste received my block this morning and finished to mount it. There is no problem with the ram slot. I can not take picture because I have no camera. The small part of the ram block (with a hole for a screw) come juste between the ram slot 2 and 3. I have 41°C in iddle with stock clock. More test latter. It is 14h30 and I have not eaten...
Edit : I don't believe that the corsaire cooler fit with the block.
Edit 2 : I have something wrong : in full, my temperature are worst than with the stock cooler. I have to check what happen.
Edit 3 : I think this is because I have only two metal o-ring with hole and I need one without for the junction between the two blocks. The liquid don't spread properly and pass more by the ram block who's less restrictiv.
frozencpu has em too :)
hehe yes, i spent 8 hours friday night cleaning every single part i could get with a Qtip and then rebuilding everything.
the hardest part was figuring out how to fill this new loop with a T-line. had never used one before. i finally came to the notion of opening the tline top, as well as the thermochill fill bolt on the top of the rad, and then slowly filling the system until coolant topped out of the rad :) have to have the radiator sitting with the fittings end on the bottom, and you also need to have the tline tube longer than the height of the rad. i should have taken a pic of that >< sorry. anyway, yay for atmospheric pressure! :D
for your enjoyment:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...x/IMG_0505.jpg
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...IMG_0506-1.jpg
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...x/IMG_0507.jpg
Yes. I have to wait now the return of the rma to test more.
I screwed in cross first the screw near the gpu and check two time the print on the thermal grease and try at first with barbs on the ram block and in second time one on the ram block and one on the vga block. In every case, in burn I was over 100°C. I checked alos the inside of the vga block : everything alright. My vga loop work well. Now I have only 52°C on furmark (1680x1024 aax16) with the 8800gtx at 675/1530/1060 with the ek fc8800gtx sli block.
Sorry, I don't understand what you're saying. Please provide pictures if you can. Did you install barbs at each "end" of the water channel on the waterblock? Or accidentally installed at the same "end" of the water channel, on opposite sides of the block?
If so, that would explain your temps....
Repliquant67: I think you have mount this:
http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/8...kplate1pn0.jpg
But i want know that can look like this with ram block for gtx280 from EK:
Because i think that is impossible on Rampage. But i can be wrong ofcourse.
http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/3...8dq6025co1.jpg
Well, I tell you, the aquacomputer one seems to cover those areas much better.
With my EK I found the solution to be, well, not as solid as the aquacomputer.
Also, the thermal pads they supplied are insufficient (the amount provided).
You see, the part you have to screw to the main block is the part that cools those Chips, and they supply thermal pad to apply between that and the chips, and that part doesn't really touch the small ones so I had to cut the thermal pad in 2 or 3 pieces and stack them on top of each other to make sure theres contact.
So, my card runs cool, and no game has crashed (I actually play games lol)
And be damn carefull screwing the EK to the card... the PCB bends really easily
yeah...pretty sure I'm going with the DD Tieton on this round, the EK seems to be heavy, problematic and overpriced.
For the probleme, it is maybe only for my waterblocks or maybe I did something wrong when I mount ...
I can't give my opinion because I did'nt test completly :shrug:
This is the same with the fcr600 : http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/downloa...stallation.pdf
Picture at the end of the first page, o-ring are surounded...
But maybe I'm wrong and the probleme com from somethingelse
Edit : Eddy wrotte me that he will produce full spacer (like for the fcr600) in order to have the two blocks in serie and not in parallel. I hope it will work fine with mine because otherwise the blocks are very nice.
A gtx280 with the EK FC280gtxback and the EK FC280GTX sli fit without problem with an asus maximus formula.
It might just be me, but I find it silly having a 50 bucks ram-block on the back, but no water flowing over the PWM in front :rolleyes:
The main purpose of a full cover block should be to cool adequately every single component, but right now any production block is just using copper (if not aluminium) plates on power circuitry. We all know how much heat PWMs produce, and it's more than RAM's. Not a single wb maker is even putting fins over there... again, silly.
Interesting question. I always wondered why the wet area was just around the gpu chip and a large portion of the cards components were not "under water". I assume a decision is made how much cooling the components besides the gpu chip need, and probably a cost issue. Though most FC block have alot more surface area "under water" than say a chip only block and a unisink like the DTek. I can't claim to be an expert in either cooling or block design, but would love to hear input form those that know more about this and could explain the decision better.
No. I'm waiting a new gtx280. If I don't receive one, I will wait the gt200b I think. My problem come maybe from the fact that I thigt the screws around the gpu before the one that attach the two blocks together (manual was released after I received my blocks). Maybe ....
Vga block is around 700 gr and ram block 500 gr. For the people who was worried about the weight.
I will soon order this ek blocks for my gtx. When all will come i take photos ;)
Ok. I should not have the new card before 2 weeks I think. I'm waiting your results.
I should have my EK block and Ram plate for my GTX280 tomorrow. I'll let you know how things go.
Yes I found the same thing. Used a bit of (lapped) copper sheet 18SWG (0.048") fixed on the VRM with thin thermal pad and MX2 on the top of the copper which makes very good contact with the aluminium block.
Here are the results with q6600@3.4Gz + 2 x 4870s in Xfire+ NB block+ mosfet block all on the same loop with a TFC 480. Running OCCT and rthdirbl
Room temperature 25.1 degC
http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/5...lecamu9.th.jpg
http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/1...fireag2.th.jpg
http://img370.imageshack.us/img370/1...testqb9.th.jpg
I mounted the block with the RAM backplate today on my GTX 280. The results are terrible, I've tried mounting twice and the temps go sky high in 3D straight away. I'm going to try mounting one more time before I stick the aircooler back on. :(
I wish I had shares in a thermal paste company :(
Great. Now my card is broken. What a crock of s.hit.
Finally i have my gtx
http://img388.imageshack.us/img388/6637/dscf0327iv9.jpg
My old one and new one gtx
Now waiting for ek blocks :)
Now that these blocks have been on the market for a while, has there been any verdict on which one performs better? I just picked up a 280gtx and want to replace it with someone's full cover block. . . . but which one??